Gang rip tennon cheeks
 

I would like to get tooled up to gang rip the cheeks of a tennon in one
pass. I figure that I'll need two flat top grind rip blades and a spacer to
go inbetween.

I would rather go with full kerf blades as I figure I have the HP (3) to
push them and I find them to be more stable.

Two affordable options are available from mcfeeleys:

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product.asp?ProductID=LM72-10R
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product.asp?ProductID=LM72-10

The only differnce seems to the the teflon coating. Is that worth the extra
cost?

Are there any other midpriced 10" FT grind, 1/8" kerf blades that I ought to
consider?

Any ideas of how to set up a spacer? I don't know of any local machine
shops. for lack of a better idea, I could use a two blade stabilizers and
some dado shims.

Does anyone know of a source for a better spacer?

Regards,

Steve

1. If you have a dado shims, do you have a dado set? Is it flat grind?
It's pretty common to just use the other blades for this operation.
Some people (most) like to use the blades on the wrong side so the
fibre breaker is inside, next to the tenon rather than on the outside
as designed.

2. They have been brining in CMT blades at the shop I'm working in and
sometimes they seem work better than the Forrests. Especially the thin
kerf ripper that is marked as "Excellent" for ripping. It is.

3. Use Thrust Washers: I will be doing some research with my machinest
guy soon for a similar spacer setup for quick accurate gang ripping on
my 18" Woodmaster planer molder (still in the crate but not for long).
Currently I am thinking I can use what they call Thrust Washers. I can
get them in the right ID's and they come in 1/16, 3/32, 1/8 and 1/4.
All with a +/-0.005 tolerance in width. Even with stackup that's
acceptable for me. Its 1/200th of an inch each. I think it will be a
problem for wider widths so I'm looking into having some tubes cut and
percision ground, if I can't locate any off the shelf parts.

1. If you have a dado shims, do you have a dado set?

Yes. but it's 6" model. That would limit me to 1" tennons, a tad shorter
than I prefer.

Is it flat grind?

No.

2. They have been brining in CMT blades at the shop I'm working in and
sometimes they seem work better than the Forrests. Especially the thin
kerf ripper that is marked as "Excellent" for ripping. It is.

Thanks. Might you know the model?

3. Use Thrust Washers: I will be doing some research with my machinest
guy soon for a similar spacer setup for quick accurate gang ripping on
my 18" Woodmaster planer molder (still in the crate but not for long).
Currently I am thinking I can use what they call Thrust Washers. I can
get them in the right ID's and they come in 1/16, 3/32, 1/8 and 1/4.
All with a +/-0.005 tolerance in width. Even with stackup that's
acceptable for me. Its 1/200th of an inch each. I think it will be a
problem for wider widths so I'm looking into having some tubes cut and
percision ground, if I can't locate any off the shelf parts.

Does your molder have a 5/8" shaft? If so, let me know if you locate a
supplier.


Thanks,

Steve

The easiest spacer is one you make yourself. If you want a 3/8" tenon,
thickness a piece of wood to that dimension and drill an
appropriately-sized hole for the saw's arbor. Mark the spacer for
future use. I typically make mine slightly oversize (by about 1/32" or
so) to allow final fitting with a shoulder plane.

It's important when you are using a setup like this to use a
zero-clearance insert plate for your saw. You'll want as much support
for the workpiece as possible, and you don't want the cheek cutoffs
flying around the shop.


Jeff

On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 17:47:35 -0500, "C & S"
scribbled:

Any ideas of how to set up a spacer? I don't know of any local machine
shops. for lack of a better idea, I could use a two blade stabilizers and
some dado shims.

I've used 1/2" lexan & other bits of thin plastic, cardboard and
paper. Cut out a 2-inch dia. circle with a hole saw on the drill press
and then bore out the centre hole to 5/8" (or whatever your arbour
diameter is).

Note that a 1/2" spacer won't give you a 1/2" tenon as the carbide saw
teeth project further than the sides of the blade. Hence the need to
add thinner plastic or cardboard shims.

Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html

"Jeff" wrote in message
ups.com...
The easiest spacer is one you make yourself. If you want a 3/8" tenon,
thickness a piece of wood to that dimension and drill an
appropriately-sized hole for the saw's arbor. Mark the spacer for
future use. I typically make mine slightly oversize (by about 1/32" or
so) to allow final fitting with a shoulder plane.


I didn't think wood would be stable enough.... I'll have to try it

It's important when you are using a setup like this to use a
zero-clearance insert plate for your saw.

That was my plan. :-)

-Steve

I've used 1/2" lexan & other bits of thin plastic, cardboard and
paper. Cut out a 2-inch dia. circle with a hole saw on the drill press
and then bore out the centre hole to 5/8" (or whatever your arbour
diameter is).

I had not thought of those materials. I have some 1/4 (I think) phenolic
plate that never because a router table for over a decade ago. That might
work well. Glued paper might just be the thing for final adjustment.


Note that a 1/2" spacer won't give you a 1/2" tenon as the carbide saw
teeth project further than the sides of the blade. Hence the need to
add thinner plastic or cardboard shims.

Yup. That's why I had planned to possibly use dado shims.

Thanks for the ideas.

-Steve

You might want to read this little article:

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/2blade.htm



C & S wrote:

I would like to get tooled up to gang rip the cheeks of a tennon in one
pass. I figure that I'll need two flat top grind rip blades and a spacer to
go inbetween.

On the CMt we have the Cabinet Shop 221, Combination 215 and the
General 213. The guys use all of them and really like them. I use the
General typically and glue up rips directly from the cut and the cross
cuts are glassy.

I haven't tried this blade on a deep rip cut like you'll do on a tennon
but I'm sure they will perform as good as any thin kerf. Now that I
think of it I wonder if a thicker blade would be better for such a tall
cut. Probably wouldn't be much different, just a thought.

On my Molder, I'm not sure but I think the shaft is likely at least an
inch. I'll crack the packages open this weekend. Regardless, thrust
washers come in a wide range of ID's. If I find similar items with
greater widths, I let ya know.

In article ,
C & S wrote:
...snipped...


Any ideas of how to set up a spacer? I don't know of any local machine
shops. for lack of a better idea, I could use a two blade stabilizers and
some dado shims.

Does anyone know of a source for a better spacer?

Regards,

Steve


If you go to an industrial supplier like Grainger or MSC you can get
ground or "precision ground" 5/8" flat washers, use shims made from a
beer can if you need to fine tune the width.

Can't recommend one blade over another except to say that it seems to
me most any decent rip blade should be OK, the surfaces will be hidden
after assembly.




--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

Gang rip tennon cheeks
 

I gotta wonder just how much spindle you have hanging out to fasten all of
this to. I suppose that much depends on the width of the tenon, but if it's
much over 5/8" thick, I don't think that my saw could support such a stack.
You might want to reach down there with a tape, just to check.