I just found an old Stanly plane that I have had for a long
time and it has some rust on it. What is the best way to
remove the rust? I would like to use the plane again

--
b

"Boots" wrote in message ...
I just found an old Stanly plane that I have had for a long
time and it has some rust on it. What is the best way to
remove the rust? I would like to use the plane again

--
b

Try Electrolysis. See this link:
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru..._derusting.htm

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 14:40:44 -0600, "Boots" wrote:

I just found an old Stanly plane that I have had for a long
time and it has some rust on it. What is the best way to
remove the rust? I would like to use the plane again

Just be sure the blade's out etc.. :-)

It's pretty tough metal, and depends on the amount of rust. Is it
pitted, or just surface? I've cleaned up planes really nicely using
emery cloth and elbow grease. If really rusty, but not too pitted I
start with a coarser grain, even an old flat sharpening stone that
will wear a lot faster than the metal. I've had some good results,
and even did one about 14" long [?] ...not sure, a long time back. It
had grooves along the bottom. I even repainted it, then gave it to a
person who is a fine old-time cabinet maker who had a better use for
it than I did. He still uses it.

A lot of times electrolysis is way overkill for just light rusting. Plus
its messy.

I use the rubber hand blocks from Woodcraft
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=7329

on light rust. They are clean, work fast, and leave me with a nice finish.
And I don't have to rub too hard. They abrade away, so they will follow
complex surfaces.

Usual disclaimer, don't own or work for Woodcraft.

Walt C


"Buck Frobisher" wrote in message
...
"Boots" wrote in message ...
I just found an old Stanly plane that I have had for a long
time and it has some rust on it. What is the best way to
remove the rust? I would like to use the plane again

--
b

Try Electrolysis. See this link:
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru..._derusting.htm

it is surface rust. Someone told me the acid they use to
clean brick will clean it. (can't think of the acid?)
"Guess who" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 14:40:44 -0600, "Boots"
wrote:

I just found an old Stanly plane that I have had for a long
time and it has some rust on it. What is the best way to
remove the rust? I would like to use the plane again

Just be sure the blade's out etc.. :-)

It's pretty tough metal, and depends on the amount of rust.
Is it
pitted, or just surface? I've cleaned up planes really
nicely using
emery cloth and elbow grease. If really rusty, but not too
pitted I
start with a coarser grain, even an old flat sharpening
stone that
will wear a lot faster than the metal. I've had some good
results,
and even did one about 14" long [?] ...not sure, a long time
back. It
had grooves along the bottom. I even repainted it, then
gave it to a
person who is a fine old-time cabinet maker who had a better
use for
it than I did. He still uses it.

"Boots" wrote in :

it is surface rust. Someone told me the acid they use to
clean brick will clean it. (can't think of the acid?)

Why not start by working it over with some kerosene and a shop rag, and see
how it looks when you get done? Then let it dry, and paste wax everything,
sharpen & hone the blade, adjust it, and put it to work.

Save the major chemicals for later, if you aren't happy with the results.

Patriarch

"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 97.136...
"Boots" wrote in :

it is surface rust. Someone told me the acid they use to
clean brick will clean it. (can't think of the acid?)

muriatic acid

--
Nahmie
Those on the cutting edge bleed a lot.

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 16:41:59 -0600, "Boots" wrote:

it is surface rust. Someone told me the acid they use to
clean brick will clean it. (can't think of the acid?)

If you can't get it acceptably clean with 30 seconds work and a
plastic mesh abrasive, then use electrolysis.

Don't use acid (any of them). Acid won't do anything to de-rust it.

In article , says...
I just found an old Stanly plane that I have had for a long
time and it has some rust on it. What is the best way to
remove the rust? I would like to use the plane again

For light rust, I've had good luck with TurtleWax Chrome Polish and Rust
Remover or the equivalent. Some metal polishes that make no mention of
rust removal also work.

If it's a little heavier salted vinegar makes a weak acid that works,
but oil or wax it as soon as it comes out of the solution or it'll start
rerusting almost immediately.

And if all else fails, there's always electrolysis.

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

"Norman D. Crow" wrote in news:d1vqht0es5
@enews2.newsguy.com:





"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 97.136...
"Boots" wrote in :

it is surface rust. Someone told me the acid they use to
clean brick will clean it. (can't think of the acid?)

muriatic acid


I knew the name. I think it's a very bad idea, however.

Patriarch,
who has scrubbed a few bricks and blocks in his youth.

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 20:46:30 -0500, the inscrutable "Norman D. Crow"
spake:

"Patriarch" wrote in message
.97.136...
"Boots" wrote in :

it is surface rust. Someone told me the acid they use to
clean brick will clean it. (can't think of the acid?)

muriatic acid

$3.69 for a gallon of the 31.45% stuff at the Farmer's Building Supply
here. It's also great for toilet rust stains and lime buildup. (My
second toilet limes up from disuse.)

It's strong, so be sure to neutralize afterward. Muriatic is dilute
hycrochloric acid. Use it outside. The fumes are nasty.

Clean, rinse/neutralize, dry off -immediately-, wax -immediately-
after that. Please DAMHIKT.


================================================== ======
TANSTAAFL: There ain't no such thing as a free lunch.
http://diversify.com Gourmet Web Applications
==========================

Larry Jaques writes:
It's strong, so be sure to neutralize afterward. Muriatic is dilute
hycrochloric acid. Use it outside. The fumes are nasty.

OK if I just leave the bathroom window open? I'm not up for hauling
the crapper outside just to get some rust off.

But I wonder what the stuff, even neutralized, will do to my septic
tank.

"Charlie Self" writes:

Larry Jaques writes:
It's strong, so be sure to neutralize afterward. Muriatic is dilute
hycrochloric acid. Use it outside. The fumes are nasty.

OK if I just leave the bathroom window open? I'm not up for hauling
the crapper outside just to get some rust off.

Take care, the fumes will make any iron that they hit rust, even if it
is stainless steel. I would not recomend it for rust removal!

But I wonder what the stuff, even neutralized, will do to my septic
tank.

Nothing, even un-neutralized. Consider the acidity of rain water, or
that if you are sick you also bring up fairly strong hydrochloric
acid. Neutralized it's nothibg else than salt water.

--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23

On 25 Mar 2005 08:11:46 -0800, the inscrutable "Charlie Self"
spake:

Larry Jaques writes:
It's strong, so be sure to neutralize afterward. Muriatic is dilute
hycrochloric acid. Use it outside. The fumes are nasty.

OK if I just leave the bathroom window open? I'm not up for hauling
the crapper outside just to get some rust off.

Yeah, and use a box fan + wear a respirator/gloves/goggles.

A friend who was a janitor showed me how to use it. Turn the
crapper water valve OFF, use a round brush to remove the water
by plunging it down the trap, carefully (without dripping it on
the carpet or linoleum) put half a cup of muriatic into the bowl.
Swish up under the rim and around the entire bowl, wait 5 to 10
minutes, add a cup of baking soda, turn water on, swish, and flush
twice. It cleans up bowls as bad as -bar- toilets in minutes flat.
Great stuff.


But I wonder what the stuff, even neutralized, will do to my septic
tank.

Neutralized, it's inert and will just flow through it.


================================================== ======
TANSTAAFL: There ain't no such thing as a free lunch.
http://diversify.com Gourmet Web Applications
==========================

As usual, Woodcraft gives you a good cornholing on price - $5.50. They
are $3.95 at McFeeleys. Is it just me, or is Woodcraft getting worse
and worse on the gouging?



I use the rubber hand blocks from Woodcraft
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=7329

muriatic acid will clean the rust so the metal looks like
new

"Patriarch" wrote in
message
. 97.136...
"Norman D. Crow" wrote in
news:d1vqht0es5
@enews2.newsguy.com:





"Patriarch" wrote in
message

. 97.136...
"Boots" wrote in
:

it is surface rust. Someone told me the acid they use
to
clean brick will clean it. (can't think of the acid?)

muriatic acid


I knew the name. I think it's a very bad idea, however.

Patriarch,
who has scrubbed a few bricks and blocks in his youth.

Maybe. Acid dissolves metal, so if the acid were used improperly it
could pit a metal surface. My preference is to use kerosene,
sandpaper, and elbow grease.

On Sun, 3 Apr 2005 19:29:33 -0500, "Boots" wrote:

muriatic acid will clean the rust so the metal looks like
new

"Patriarch" wrote in
message
.97.136...
"Norman D. Crow" wrote in
news:d1vqht0es5
:





"Patriarch" wrote in
message

.97.136...
"Boots" wrote in
:

it is surface rust. Someone told me the acid they use
to
clean brick will clean it. (can't think of the acid?)

muriatic acid


I knew the name. I think it's a very bad idea, however.

Patriarch,
who has scrubbed a few bricks and blocks in his youth.

Phisherman wrote in
news
Maybe. Acid dissolves metal, so if the acid were used improperly it
could pit a metal surface. My preference is to use kerosene,
sandpaper, and elbow grease.

On Sun, 3 Apr 2005 19:29:33 -0500, "Boots" wrote:

muriatic acid will clean the rust so the metal looks like
new



Or you could (sand)blast it with walnut shell powder, or with baking soda.
But kerosene and a little 400 grit will do everything needed, as Phisherman
says, and has the virtue of being cheap to implement, hard to screw up and
relatively safe to the operator.

Just don't use acetone! (g,d&r!)

Patriarch