I am building a router table which will use the Porter-Cable 690 1.75hp
variable speed router, and I am pondering the wisdom of using a lift rather
than attaching the fixed base to the table insert. While I have read all
about the advantages of swapping bits from above the table, and changing
depth settings easily and precisely from above, I still wonder if these are
really issues for the occasional furniture builder that I am. If it matters,
I'm considering the Rousseau lift because it seems to have all the features
and capabilities that they all do, but at the lowest cost I've found on the
web.

It would help me quite a lot to learn of your experiences with lifts in a
non-production setting. Opinions and thoughts, both pro and con, are greatly
appreciated.

Many thanks,

Rich

On 21 Mar 2005 19:08:36 GMT, Rich Shepard wrote:

I am building a router table which will use the Porter-Cable 690 1.75hp
variable speed router, and I am pondering the wisdom of using a lift rather
than attaching the fixed base to the table insert. While I have read all
about the advantages of swapping bits from above the table, and changing
depth settings easily and precisely from above, I still wonder if these are
really issues for the occasional furniture builder that I am. If it matters,
I'm considering the Rousseau lift because it seems to have all the features
and capabilities that they all do, but at the lowest cost I've found on the
web.

It would help me quite a lot to learn of your experiences with lifts in a
non-production setting. Opinions and thoughts, both pro and con, are greatly
appreciated.

Many thanks,

Rich

I recently purchased the Rockler/JessEm Router Lift FX from my (kind of) local
Rockler store. After using my old, let's climb under the router table and
fumble with the wrenches and tweak the router's base adjustment (again, and
again) and going through myriads of scrap to get the exact level, the new lift
is just great. The best part was that my PC slipped right into the clamp
(without any adjustment) and I was off and routing.

This is what I bought:
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...out er%20lift

Today, I ordered a set of Tab-Loc inserts to supplement the one that came with
the unit.


Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA

While any number of folks will tell you how much
cheaper it is to not buy a lift, or build your
own with a old chevy screw jack, I will say that
I grew VERY weary during a session of building a
set of doors and had to adjust the router height
at LEAST ten thousand times to get the correct cut.

The Jessem lift is expensive but ONE session using it
and one session of standing on your head with a pair
of bi-focals, trying to make very small adjustments
will bring you around to their way of thinking.

SPEND THE MONEY and save your sanity,back and eyes.


Rich Shepard wrote:

I am building a router table which will use the Porter-Cable 690 1.75hp
variable speed router, and I am pondering the wisdom of using a lift rather
than attaching the fixed base to the table insert.

On 21 Mar 2005 19:08:36 GMT, Rich Shepard wrote:

I am building a router table which will use the Porter-Cable 690 1.75hp
variable speed router, and I am pondering the wisdom of using a lift rather
than attaching the fixed base to the table insert. While I have read all
about the advantages of swapping bits from above the table, and changing
depth settings easily and precisely from above, I still wonder if these are
really issues for the occasional furniture builder that I am. If it matters,
I'm considering the Rousseau lift because it seems to have all the features
and capabilities that they all do, but at the lowest cost I've found on the
web.

It would help me quite a lot to learn of your experiences with lifts in a
non-production setting. Opinions and thoughts, both pro and con, are greatly
appreciated.

Many thanks,

Rich
=======================
I think of myself as more then an ocassional furniture maker
...especially since I retired 6 years ago... and now report to my shop
almost every day...(hiding out from the wife alot I admit)...but you
get the idea...

I honestly see no real or imagined need for a router lift... I just do
not... I use a Benchdop table...all I do is open the door bend over
slightly remove router .place it on the tables surface..change bits
bend over slightly again install router (...maybe 2 minutes time IF I
am in no hurry) ... Adjustments take maybe 3 times as long without a
router lift... yep 10 seconds vs 3 seconds...or if the adjustments are
real critical it may take 12 seconds...

I may have wasted a full hour last year adjusting my routers...
BUT I am retired...so I have the time...and I also have the money that
I did not buy a router lift with....

Just my opinion... Router lifts are nice..but not really something you
abssolutely need and are not the cheapest thing to buy...

Bob Griffiths
PS:
Now I do have a lift...its in the garage and I use it to work on my
cars... just too old to crawl under the cars any more... Got one up
there now replacing all 4 brake caliburs.!

There is another solution for the occasional user.
I have not tested it. If anyone has experience, please speak up.

I can't remember where I saw it. It was just a circular plate.
You mount the router on the plate, which rests in a cut-out on the table.

When you want to change the setting, you lift the router and plate as
one, adjust it, and put the plate back.

There is no leveler, and nothing except the weight of the router
to hold the plate in place.



--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

On 2005-03-21, Bill Waller wrote:

I recently purchased the Rockler/JessEm Router Lift FX from my (kind of)
local Rockler store. After using my old, let's climb under the router table
and fumble with the wrenches and tweak the router's base adjustment (again,
and again) and going through myriads of scrap to get the exact level, the
new lift is just great. The best part was that my PC slipped right into the
clamp (without any adjustment) and I was off and routing.

Thanks, Bill. I intend to hang the router under an acrylic mount plate so I
can either remove it to make the adjustments, or I can build a hinged top to
make access easier. Looking at the manual for the PC 690LRVS I bought today
(factory rebuilt and at a good price because Black & Decker is closing the
local Porter-Cable/Delta repair center and merging it with the local DeWalt
repair center), I see that I can zero the bit on the work surface then open
the clip and rotate the body to adjust the bit depth in 1/128th-inch
increments.

I appreciate your input.

Rich

--
Dr. Richard B. Shepard, President
Applied Ecosystem Services, Inc. (TM)
http://www.appl-ecosys.com Voice: 503-667-4517 Fax: 503-667-8863

On 2005-03-21, Bruce Barnett wrote:

I can't remember where I saw it. It was just a circular plate. You mount
the router on the plate, which rests in a cut-out on the table.

When you want to change the setting, you lift the router and plate as
one, adjust it, and put the plate back.

Bruce,

This is the approach used by Bill Hylton in his router books. The plate is
rectangular, but the idea is the same. It's what I planned on using until I
thought of investigating a lift.

Looking at the router I bought today for use in the table convinces me that
the adjustments will be easy and I can use that money for other good stuff.

Many thanks,

Rich

Bob, There is one use for a router lift: you can raise the bit with the
wood on top so you can make mortises or stopped dados.

Pat, I feel I can build anything but I can't build everyting. A router
lift is one of those things I choose not to build - like you.

If you end up with the router mounted and left in the table you essentially
have a shaper. For the $200 lift, $150 router, $100 top/fence, and what
ever in the stand, you're pretty darn close to a 1-1/2 (real) hp shaper.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...emNumber=G1035

"Rich Shepard" wrote in message
...
I am building a router table which will use the Porter-Cable 690 1.75hp
variable speed router, and I am pondering the wisdom of using a lift
rather
than attaching the fixed base to the table insert. While I have read all
about the advantages of swapping bits from above the table, and changing
depth settings easily and precisely from above, I still wonder if these
are
really issues for the occasional furniture builder that I am. If it
matters,
I'm considering the Rousseau lift because it seems to have all the
features
and capabilities that they all do, but at the lowest cost I've found on
the
web.

It would help me quite a lot to learn of your experiences with lifts in
a
non-production setting. Opinions and thoughts, both pro and con, are
greatly
appreciated.

Many thanks,

Rich

True, but standard router table techniques allow you to do this without a
lift. I could actually dial up my router very precisely to do that, but find I
never do.
GerryG

On 21 Mar 2005 17:46:22 -0800, "Never Enough Money"
wrote:

Bob, There is one use for a router lift: you can raise the bit with the
wood on top so you can make mortises or stopped dados.

Just one teeny little thing else, like shaper cutters,
that are just a wee bit more than router bits.

Check out a full door set from Freud or any of the other
majors.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...?v=glance&s=hi

Weekend wood bog wrote:

If you end up with the router mounted and left in the table you essentially
have a shaper. For the $200 lift, $150 router, $100 top/fence, and what
ever in the stand, you're pretty darn close to a 1-1/2 (real) hp shaper.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...emNumber=G1035

In article ,
Rich Shepard wrote:

On 2005-03-21, Bill Waller wrote:

I recently purchased the Rockler/JessEm Router Lift FX from my (kind of)
local Rockler store. After using my old, let's climb under the router table
and fumble with the wrenches and tweak the router's base adjustment (again,
and again) and going through myriads of scrap to get the exact level, the
new lift is just great. The best part was that my PC slipped right into the
clamp (without any adjustment) and I was off and routing.

Thanks, Bill. I intend to hang the router under an acrylic mount plate so I
can either remove it to make the adjustments, or I can build a hinged top to
make access easier. Looking at the manual for the PC 690LRVS I bought today
(factory rebuilt and at a good price because Black & Decker is closing the
local Porter-Cable/Delta repair center and merging it with the local DeWalt
repair center), I see that I can zero the bit on the work surface then open
the clip and rotate the body to adjust the bit depth in 1/128th-inch
increments.

I appreciate your input.

Rich

I made my own using a 1 inch bolt and nut. I used a 2x4 with a hole
drilled in it, and just screw the bolt into the nut when I need to
adjust. Very simple and very cost effective.

Rich Shepard wrote:
I am building a router table which will use the Porter-Cable 690 1.75hp
variable speed router, and I am pondering the wisdom of using a lift rather
than attaching the fixed base to the table insert. While I have read all
about the advantages of swapping bits from above the table, and changing
depth settings easily and precisely from above, I still wonder if these are
really issues for the occasional furniture builder that I am. If it matters,
I'm considering the Rousseau lift because it seems to have all the features
and capabilities that they all do, but at the lowest cost I've found on the
web.

It would help me quite a lot to learn of your experiences with lifts in a
non-production setting. Opinions and thoughts, both pro and con, are greatly
appreciated.

Many thanks,

Rich

I have the Jessem lift with the 690. Works great (but I had some early
quality problems with the lift and had to return it twice)

I actually find changing bits takes *MORE* time than before, when I
could remove the insert from the table, remove the motor, change bit,
re-insert. Cranking is kind of slow.

The real beauty is the accuracy and repeatability. The 690 adjustment
mechanism (at least on my 10 year old one) isn't so good. For
dovetailing drawers for instance, I know that I need 7 full turns +
1/128" for bit depth. I just wish the adjustment openin was NOT on the
top surface of the table, but on the front.

I also agree with another poster that for the cost of router, table,
lift you could buy a low cost shaper with more power, accuracy,
stability, flexibility and an adapter collar for using your existing
router bits. I'd probably consider that before buying another TS
mounted router.

Rob

"Rob Mitchell" wrote in message
newsN60e.18697 I also agree with another poster that for the cost of
router, table,
lift you could buy a low cost shaper with more power, accuracy,
stability, flexibility and an adapter collar for using your existing
router bits. I'd probably consider that before buying another TS
mounted router.

Rob

Some search results suggested the slower speed of the router bits in the
shaper did not produce as good as cut as when on a router or shaper bits.
Slower feed rate although I suppose you could swap out pulleys.

Looking at my magazine stack in the 'reading room' I completely forgot that
this month's American Woodworker (#113 March 2005) includes a review of 12
router lifts. Some MORE than the grizzly shaper I pointed out.