Restoring #8, part 1 (w/pics)
 

Hello everyone,

I had been looking for an old Stanley #8 for a couple of years but I could
not find one I could afford, or if I could aford it, it was a total piece of
scrap. I was cruising Ebay last week and I saw one here in Canada for sale,
it looked pretty tough, but it was all there. For $118 CDN (to my door) I
had a real Stanley # 8, type 11 (1910-1918). In the photos, it does look
bad, but it is all there, just needs a little, *ahem*, work. The blade is a
total write off, but I already picked up a new #8 Hock for under $20. I
couldn't find a big enough plastic container around the house to de-rust the
plane in, so some scrap plywood and plastic to the rescue for a makeshift
electrolysis tank. The handles are in a glass jar with lacquer thinner being
stripped, 80 years of sweaty palms makes for some ugly dirty lacquer
thinner.

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/8-1.jpg

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/8-1.jpg

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/8-1.jpg

I cannot wait for a few days to pass when I can take it out of the tank and
clean it off to see how it really looks.

Take care,

David.

Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/8-1.jpg

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/8-2.jpg

http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/8-3.jpg

David F. Eisan wrote:
Hello everyone,

I had been looking for an old Stanley #8 for a couple of years but I
could
not find one I could afford, or if I could aford it, it was a total
piece of
scrap. I was cruising Ebay last week and I saw one here in Canada for
sale,
it looked pretty tough, but it was all there. For $118 CDN (to my
door) I
had a real Stanley # 8, type 11 (1910-1918). In the photos, it does
look
bad,

Not at all. A little surface rust, and the iron is almost history; but
otherwise it looks good. Check the front of the mouth for wear. I
have a T11 #5-1/2C whose iron was worn shorter than your #8's. The
front of the mouth had become slightly concave from use. Not
necessarily a problem in a jack but maybe troublesome in a jointer.

but it is all there, just needs a little, *ahem*, work. The blade is
a
total write off, but I already picked up a new #8 Hock for under $20.
snip

Double gloatin' are ye?

Cheers,
Mike

Not at all. A little surface rust, and the iron is almost history; but
otherwise it looks good. Check the front of the mouth for wear. I
have a T11 #5-1/2C whose iron was worn shorter than your #8's. The
front of the mouth had become slightly concave from use. Not
necessarily a problem in a jack but maybe troublesome in a jointer.

There is a large pit just back of the knob, but way before the throat. I
have not checked for flatness yet, but I will lap it anyway. This will be a
good user jointer...

but it is all there, just needs a little, *ahem*, work. The blade is
a total write off, but I already picked up a new #8 Hock for under $20.

Double gloatin' are ye?

I was thinking about getting a new Hock chipbreaker, but this one looks in
better shape than I thought it would be.

David.

On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 09:57:13 -0500, "David F. Eisan"
wrote:

Hello everyone,

I had been looking for an old Stanley #8 for a couple of years but I could
not find one I could afford, or if I could aford it, it was a total piece of
scrap. I was cruising Ebay last week and I saw one here in Canada for sale,
it looked pretty tough, but it was all there. For $118 CDN (to my door) I

snip

I usually take some #400 sandpaper to them and see whats underneath!
Usually it just is a matter of simple cleaning and lapping

David F. Eisan wrote:
Hello everyone,

... I
couldn't find a big enough plastic container around the house to
de-rust the
plane in, so some scrap plywood and plastic to the rescue for a
makeshift
electrolysis tank. ...

I use a plastic window box sold for growing flowers on a windowsill.
they come as long as 48" and are wide enough for most handsaws too.

I took a steel bar, somewhat shorter than the box and hung it by
two bolts from the drip pan that came with it. That goes on top
both to immerse the electrode and to provide a lid so my cat
doesn't drink from it.

I'd like to use 316 instead, but haven't gotten around to buying
a bar. I'm not clear on whether or not you'd really get chromates
in the water from doing this, but I'd then dispose of the water
by mixing it with cement, then throwing the block in the trash.

--

FF