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smooth 45 degree cuts on TS
I have been cutting some oak with a Delta unisaw and the blade set to 45
degrees. The edges don't seem real smooth at 45 degrees but are smooth as glass at 90 degree. I'm using a WWII which is about a month old. The cuts are along the grain and seem to be tearing along the wood fibers. The poplar wood I was using before seemed very smooth at 45 degrees. Any suggestions. Thanks |
Could your crosscut, then rip to width afterwards? That would remove
the splintered end. I've got no clue as to why that would happen at 45 but not at 90. Keith wrote: I have been cutting some oak with a Delta unisaw and the blade set to 45 degrees. The edges don't seem real smooth at 45 degrees but are smooth as glass at 90 degree. I'm using a WWII which is about a month old. The cuts are along the grain and seem to be tearing along the wood fibers. The poplar wood I was using before seemed very smooth at 45 degrees. Any suggestions. Thanks |
Keith wrote:
I have been cutting some oak with a Delta unisaw and the blade set to 45 degrees. The edges don't seem real smooth at 45 degrees but are smooth as glass at 90 degree. I'm using a WWII which is about a month old. The cuts are along the grain and seem to be tearing along the wood fibers. The poplar wood I was using before seemed very smooth at 45 degrees. Any suggestions. Thanks Over the years there have been post made to the "wreck" about Delta saws that would lose the blade alignment when the blade was tilted. Below is a "Google" link to some of those past threads. It's a long URL so if it doesn't work for you try an "Advanced Google Search" for "+Delta +tilt +alignment" (without the quotes). http://groups-beta.google.com/groups...=2005&safe=off -- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove -SPAM- to send email) |
On Sun, 13 Mar 2005 18:02:33 -0500, Keith
wrote: I have been cutting some oak with a Delta unisaw and the blade set to 45 degrees. The edges don't seem real smooth at 45 degrees but are smooth as glass at 90 degree. I'm using a WWII which is about a month old. The cuts are along the grain and seem to be tearing along the wood fibers. The poplar wood I was using before seemed very smooth at 45 degrees. Any suggestions. Thanks If I'm following you here, your are ripping at a 45 degree angle? I think a clue might be that the poplar is coming out okay. Just a guess would be that your blade may be more dull than you think. Mike O. |
"Keith" wrote in message news:1110754339.94c529a89df13f8fe81bf31154e2d9ed@1 usenet... I have been cutting some oak with a Delta unisaw and the blade set to 45 degrees. The edges don't seem real smooth at 45 degrees but are smooth as glass at 90 degree. I'm using a WWII which is about a month old. The cuts are along the grain and seem to be tearing along the wood fibers. The poplar wood I was using before seemed very smooth at 45 degrees. Any suggestions. Thanks Depends on what's going on. Are you seeing blade artifact - arcs from the teeth and maybe a bit of burn? Might be what Jack said. If it's just random roughness, see Mike. Remember your board is now 1.4 times as thick, so adjust your feed and hold accordingly. |
I'll try a Freud blade I have that is almost new and see. The links may help
also as I only have been checking the angle measurement. Should I leave more then one saw tooth above the board on the cut? Thanks "George" george@least wrote: "Keith" wrote in message news:1110754339.94c529a89df13f8fe81bf31154e2d9ed@ 1usenet... I have been cutting some oak with a Delta unisaw and the blade set to 45 degrees. The edges don't seem real smooth at 45 degrees but are smooth as glass at 90 degree. I'm using a WWII which is about a month old. The cuts are along the grain and seem to be tearing along the wood fibers. The poplar wood I was using before seemed very smooth at 45 degrees. Any suggestions. Thanks Depends on what's going on. Are you seeing blade artifact - arcs from the teeth and maybe a bit of burn? Might be what Jack said. If it's just random roughness, see Mike. Remember your board is now 1.4 times as thick, so adjust your feed and hold accordingly. |
"Keith" wrote in message news:1110754339.94c529a89df13f8fe81bf31154e2d9ed@1 usenet... I have been cutting some oak with a Delta unisaw and the blade set to 45 degrees. The edges don't seem real smooth at 45 degrees but are smooth as glass at 90 degree. I'm using a WWII which is about a month old. The cuts are along the grain and seem to be tearing along the wood fibers. The poplar wood I was using before seemed very smooth at 45 degrees. Any suggestions. Thanks Keith, Is the blade tilting away from the fence? Is so, the wood will tend to rise and fall producing a rough cut. Regardless of tilt you need to maintain good downward pressure and good pressure against the fence you will produce better rips. Tilting toward the fence will make this job a touch easier. Dave Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY ** ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
On Sun, 13 Mar 2005 18:02:33 -0500, Keith
wrote: I have been cutting some oak with a Delta unisaw and the blade set to 45 degrees. The edges don't seem real smooth at 45 degrees but are smooth as glass at 90 degree. I'm using a WWII which is about a month old. The cuts are along the grain and seem to be tearing along the wood fibers. The poplar wood I was using before seemed very smooth at 45 degrees. Any suggestions. Thanks You are ripping not cross cutting..if I read you post correctly... Now I would expect your 1 month old WW!! blade is not yet very dull so I am going to rule that out.... You seem to indicate that the fibers are sheared and not smoothly cut off along the entire surface of the cut..not just sheared or splintered along the edge of the cut... so we can rule out left vs right hand tilt saws...(lol..had to bring that up even thought I mainly use a right tilt and increase the lightly hood of splintering on the "good side of a ripped miter)... My guess is that when you tilt the blade you actually loose alignment of the blade to the miter slot...the rear of your blade shifts a little closer or further away from the slot ..at a 90 degree angle everything is in alignment. front to back... Just my Guesses... Bob Griffiths |
Well I cleaned the WWII and have been using more downward pressure as suggested
and it did start producing a cleaner cut. My saw is a left tilt which it seems allows it to move up and down as suggested. Either way I want to thank everyone for their help. Keith wrote: I have been cutting some oak with a Delta unisaw and the blade set to 45 degrees. The edges don't seem real smooth at 45 degrees but are smooth as glass at 90 degree. I'm using a WWII which is about a month old. The cuts are along the grain and seem to be tearing along the wood fibers. The poplar wood I was using before seemed very smooth at 45 degrees. Any suggestions. Thanks |
Bob G. wrote in
: snip My guess is that when you tilt the blade you actually loose alignment of the blade to the miter slot...the rear of your blade shifts a little closer or further away from the slot ..at a 90 degree angle everything is in alignment. front to back... And my guess, since it's oak, is that it's changing the grain direction, exposing the more open pore structure, and generally being oak. Probably red oak, too. Consider the ray fleck structure that's variably exposed, when changing from flatsawn to riftsawn to quartersawn, and my money's on that being a contributing factor. Oh, and try using featherboards, if you haven't already. So that's my guess from miles away. Patriarch |
You are right it is right oak. Nice call.
Patriarch wrote: Bob G. wrote in : snip My guess is that when you tilt the blade you actually loose alignment of the blade to the miter slot...the rear of your blade shifts a little closer or further away from the slot ..at a 90 degree angle everything is in alignment. front to back... And my guess, since it's oak, is that it's changing the grain direction, exposing the more open pore structure, and generally being oak. Probably red oak, too. Consider the ray fleck structure that's variably exposed, when changing from flatsawn to riftsawn to quartersawn, and my money's on that being a contributing factor. Oh, and try using featherboards, if you haven't already. So that's my guess from miles away. Patriarch |
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