Advice needed on type of plane to trim 3/4" red oak with the grain
 

I am building a dresser with 6 drawers and each drawer has red oak trim
around all four edges. I can put up a picture on apbw but I don't think you
would need to see anything to give me some advice.

I need to remove a small amount of trim (up to 1/8" in a couple of cases -
usually less than that). I believe a plane would be the right tool to use
rather than a sanding block and sandpaper. The only plane I own is a 40 year
only monster from Sears. I have looked on the web and in this newsgroup
history via google but I can't find any resource that can give some advice
on what kind of plane to buy. Can you either point me at a good on-line
resource so I can read about this or can you give some advice based on your
own experience?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

Dick Snyder wrote:

I am building a dresser with 6 drawers and each drawer has red oak trim
around all four edges. I can put up a picture on apbw but I don't think you
would need to see anything to give me some advice.

I need to remove a small amount of trim (up to 1/8" in a couple of cases -
usually less than that). I believe a plane would be the right tool to use
rather than a sanding block and sandpaper. The only plane I own is a 40 year
only monster from Sears. I have looked on the web and in this newsgroup
history via google but I can't find any resource that can give some advice
on what kind of plane to buy. Can you either point me at a good on-line
resource so I can read about this or can you give some advice based on your
own experience?


For that sounds like a small block plane would be fine if you don't want
to spend much...sharpen it up good and lap the sole a little if it seems
too sorry initially.

If you clean up the old smoother you could probably get by, but it may
be a little awkward (as I gather is the hesitation to just go get it
now)...

If, otoh, you're looking or an excuse, there's always Lie-Nelson, et
al... :)

Dick Snyder wrote:
...

I need to remove a small amount of trim (up to 1/8" in a couple of
cases -
usually less than that). ... Can you either point me at a good
on-line
resource so I can read about this or can you give some advice based
on your
own experience?


The practice of removing small amounts of material to make pieces fit
is called 'blocking in' and the tool commonly used is the block plane.

Stanley manufactured an enormous variety of block planes, some of
the best are still made by Stanley, with Record and others making
knock-offs while Lee Valley and Lie Neilsen have somewhat improved
designs derivative from the Stanley designs. The fanciest have an a
djustable mouth and fine adjustments for the depth of cut and skew
of the blade. All three of those features are useful.

If you can find an old Stanley, as at an antique store the quality
will probably be better than any but the most expensive ones made
today.

Here is a guide to Stanley planes, there were serveral series
of block planes but the 9 1/2 and 65 are the ones still
made by Stanley though they no longer use those model numbers
and I think the new 65s have a skew adjustment not shown on the
webpages.

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html

Lee Valley and Lie Neilsen (Nielsen?) have their won webpages.

Simpler less expspensive models without the fine adjustments
will get the job done, but I recommend getting one with those
as they'll save you a lot of time and frustration fettling
it.

Personally, I prefer the lever caps that use a knurled screw to
clamp down the blade as I can slightly loosen it befor adjusting.
The 'snail lever' and other quick release caps save 2 - 3 seconds
when removing the blade for honing which, in my view is a silly
time to worry about saving a second or two compared to making
it easier to adjust during use. Clearly this is a minority
opinion, though.

After using a block plane, there will be no going back. Befor
long when you get a tool catalog in the mail you'll flip past
the powah tools and rowtah bits to get to the hand tools section,
scan the pictures and then say to yourself, they sure don't
make them like they used to.

Good luck.

--

FF

wrote in message
oups.com...

Dick Snyder wrote:
...

I need to remove a small amount of trim (up to 1/8" in a couple of
cases -
usually less than that). ... Can you either point me at a good
on-line
resource so I can read about this or can you give some advice based
on your
own experience?


The practice of removing small amounts of material to make pieces fit
is called 'blocking in' and the tool commonly used is the block plane.

Stanley manufactured an enormous variety of block planes, some of
the best are still made by Stanley, with Record and others making
knock-offs while Lee Valley and Lie Neilsen have somewhat improved
designs derivative from the Stanley designs. The fanciest have an a
djustable mouth and fine adjustments for the depth of cut and skew
of the blade. All three of those features are useful.

If you can find an old Stanley, as at an antique store the quality
will probably be better than any but the most expensive ones made
today.

Here is a guide to Stanley planes, there were serveral series
of block planes but the 9 1/2 and 65 are the ones still
made by Stanley though they no longer use those model numbers
and I think the new 65s have a skew adjustment not shown on the
webpages.

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html

Lee Valley and Lie Neilsen (Nielsen?) have their won webpages.

Simpler less expspensive models without the fine adjustments
will get the job done, but I recommend getting one with those
as they'll save you a lot of time and frustration fettling
it.

Personally, I prefer the lever caps that use a knurled screw to
clamp down the blade as I can slightly loosen it befor adjusting.
The 'snail lever' and other quick release caps save 2 - 3 seconds
when removing the blade for honing which, in my view is a silly
time to worry about saving a second or two compared to making
it easier to adjust during use. Clearly this is a minority
opinion, though.

After using a block plane, there will be no going back. Befor
long when you get a tool catalog in the mail you'll flip past
the powah tools and rowtah bits to get to the hand tools section,
scan the pictures and then say to yourself, they sure don't
make them like they used to.

Good luck.

--

FF

My experience with antique stores is that most of the time the planes are
mostly over priced and not in good condition. You can but new planes for
prices competitive to the prices in the antique stores I've been in. If I
need to do the task you need to do I use the Veritas apron plane ($70
range), a LN 140 ($185 range), or a Stanley #4 smoother (Ebay $25-$30
range).

Thanks for the detailed reply. I appreciate you taking the time to do it.

Dick Snyder
wrote in message
oups.com...

Dick Snyder wrote:
...

I need to remove a small amount of trim (up to 1/8" in a couple of
cases -
usually less than that). ... Can you either point me at a good
on-line
resource so I can read about this or can you give some advice based
on your
own experience?


The practice of removing small amounts of material to make pieces fit
is called 'blocking in' and the tool commonly used is the block plane.

Stanley manufactured an enormous variety of block planes, some of
the best are still made by Stanley, with Record and others making
knock-offs while Lee Valley and Lie Neilsen have somewhat improved
designs derivative from the Stanley designs. The fanciest have an a
djustable mouth and fine adjustments for the depth of cut and skew
of the blade. All three of those features are useful.

If you can find an old Stanley, as at an antique store the quality
will probably be better than any but the most expensive ones made
today.

Here is a guide to Stanley planes, there were serveral series
of block planes but the 9 1/2 and 65 are the ones still
made by Stanley though they no longer use those model numbers
and I think the new 65s have a skew adjustment not shown on the
webpages.

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html

Lee Valley and Lie Neilsen (Nielsen?) have their won webpages.

Simpler less expspensive models without the fine adjustments
will get the job done, but I recommend getting one with those
as they'll save you a lot of time and frustration fettling
it.

Personally, I prefer the lever caps that use a knurled screw to
clamp down the blade as I can slightly loosen it befor adjusting.
The 'snail lever' and other quick release caps save 2 - 3 seconds
when removing the blade for honing which, in my view is a silly
time to worry about saving a second or two compared to making
it easier to adjust during use. Clearly this is a minority
opinion, though.

After using a block plane, there will be no going back. Befor
long when you get a tool catalog in the mail you'll flip past
the powah tools and rowtah bits to get to the hand tools section,
scan the pictures and then say to yourself, they sure don't
make them like they used to.

Good luck.

--

FF

I mulled over this descision for quite a while, constantly looking
at low angle block planes for a few months. I discovered all options
and prices, small and large, eBay is always loaded with them from
all makers but to get a decent Stanley 60 1/2 used is too much con-
sidering the condition, lots of japanning chipped off, and "just old",
you might need a new $30 blade as well so why pay $50-$60 for
that plane, after all the bidding and waiting PLUS shipping???
Forget it.

So, I decided upon a Lee Valley Veritas low angle block plane, brand
new, very heavy and well made including a thick A2 steel blade for
$99, and no way have I regreted it. The body is of ductile iron which
will not crack from dropping and has nice brass parts that are precision
machined.

Also, the A2 blade will hold an edge longer, and is a little harder to
sharpen. I did it the other night and it was a bit harder but nothing
that would deter me from buying A2 in the future. This plane has a
1/4" wider blade than the Lie-Nielson blade, which is not "traditional",
and has a blade skewer that LN also does not have, and it is $51 more.

Anyway, good luck in your decision,

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

I strongly second the Veritas apron plane. It comes from the store (almost)
ready to use, fits the hand, adjusts easily and cuts well. What more could
a person want?

Walt C


"Lowell Holmes" wrote in message
news:BBKUd.64665$Dc.36791@trnddc06...

wrote in message
oups.com...

Dick Snyder wrote:
...

I need to remove a small amount of trim (up to 1/8" in a couple of
cases -
usually less than that). ... Can you either point me at a good
on-line
resource so I can read about this or can you give some advice based
on your
own experience?


The practice of removing small amounts of material to make pieces fit
is called 'blocking in' and the tool commonly used is the block plane.

Stanley manufactured an enormous variety of block planes, some of
the best are still made by Stanley, with Record and others making
knock-offs while Lee Valley and Lie Neilsen have somewhat improved
designs derivative from the Stanley designs. The fanciest have an a
djustable mouth and fine adjustments for the depth of cut and skew
of the blade. All three of those features are useful.

If you can find an old Stanley, as at an antique store the quality
will probably be better than any but the most expensive ones made
today.

Here is a guide to Stanley planes, there were serveral series
of block planes but the 9 1/2 and 65 are the ones still
made by Stanley though they no longer use those model numbers
and I think the new 65s have a skew adjustment not shown on the
webpages.

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html

Lee Valley and Lie Neilsen (Nielsen?) have their won webpages.

Simpler less expspensive models without the fine adjustments
will get the job done, but I recommend getting one with those
as they'll save you a lot of time and frustration fettling
it.

Personally, I prefer the lever caps that use a knurled screw to
clamp down the blade as I can slightly loosen it befor adjusting.
The 'snail lever' and other quick release caps save 2 - 3 seconds
when removing the blade for honing which, in my view is a silly
time to worry about saving a second or two compared to making
it easier to adjust during use. Clearly this is a minority
opinion, though.

After using a block plane, there will be no going back. Befor
long when you get a tool catalog in the mail you'll flip past
the powah tools and rowtah bits to get to the hand tools section,
scan the pictures and then say to yourself, they sure don't
make them like they used to.

Good luck.

--

FF

My experience with antique stores is that most of the time the planes are
mostly over priced and not in good condition. You can but new planes for
prices competitive to the prices in the antique stores I've been in. If I
need to do the task you need to do I use the Veritas apron plane ($70
range), a LN 140 ($185 range), or a Stanley #4 smoother (Ebay $25-$30
range).

Speaking of sharpening, I have done a little research on this too and have
some more questions. I see devices to hold the steel blade for sharpening,
another device to hold it at a different angle for honing, and sets of 3
stones for sharpening. Does this sound right? The price of all that stuff is
more than the plane in some cases...........

"AAvK" wrote in message news:wNLUd.19$Ke.6@fed1read03...

I mulled over this descision for quite a while, constantly looking
at low angle block planes for a few months. I discovered all options
and prices, small and large, eBay is always loaded with them from
all makers but to get a decent Stanley 60 1/2 used is too much con-
sidering the condition, lots of japanning chipped off, and "just old",
you might need a new $30 blade as well so why pay $50-$60 for
that plane, after all the bidding and waiting PLUS shipping???
Forget it.

So, I decided upon a Lee Valley Veritas low angle block plane, brand
new, very heavy and well made including a thick A2 steel blade for
$99, and no way have I regreted it. The body is of ductile iron which
will not crack from dropping and has nice brass parts that are precision
machined.

Also, the A2 blade will hold an edge longer, and is a little harder to
sharpen. I did it the other night and it was a bit harder but nothing
that would deter me from buying A2 in the future. This plane has a
1/4" wider blade than the Lie-Nielson blade, which is not "traditional",
and has a blade skewer that LN also does not have, and it is $51 more.

Anyway, good luck in your decision,

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

I replied to this message with a further question about sharpening.
Subsequent to doing that I found a good web resource that answered my
question so I don't need any replies. I'm sorry I couldn't find this sooner
so I wouldn't waste people's time replying to my question.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...tml?page=1&c=y

Dick Snyder
"AAvK" wrote in message news:wNLUd.19$Ke.6@fed1read03...

I mulled over this descision for quite a while, constantly looking
at low angle block planes for a few months. I discovered all options
and prices, small and large, eBay is always loaded with them from
all makers but to get a decent Stanley 60 1/2 used is too much con-
sidering the condition, lots of japanning chipped off, and "just old",
you might need a new $30 blade as well so why pay $50-$60 for
that plane, after all the bidding and waiting PLUS shipping???
Forget it.

So, I decided upon a Lee Valley Veritas low angle block plane, brand
new, very heavy and well made including a thick A2 steel blade for
$99, and no way have I regreted it. The body is of ductile iron which
will not crack from dropping and has nice brass parts that are precision
machined.

Also, the A2 blade will hold an edge longer, and is a little harder to
sharpen. I did it the other night and it was a bit harder but nothing
that would deter me from buying A2 in the future. This plane has a
1/4" wider blade than the Lie-Nielson blade, which is not "traditional",
and has a blade skewer that LN also does not have, and it is $51 more.

Anyway, good luck in your decision,

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

I replied to this message with a further question about sharpening.
Subsequent to doing that I found a good web resource that answered my question so I don't need any replies. I'm sorry I couldn't
find this sooner so I wouldn't waste people's time replying to my question.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...tml?page=1&c=y Dick Snyder

That's OK, I'll answer anyway... it's a pleasu

I am not out to spend massive amounts of buckaroos on sharpening
because I am destitutely po'! heh heh... so I use the "scary sharp"
method.

On this you will find a wealth of info on the 'net for free. I will not
buy some companies SS outfit for too much dough either, I went to
my local (and wonderful) junk shop and bought a piece of glass that
is a serious 3/4" thick (highly expensive new, I paid $10), and a length
of marble around 24" long x 11" or so wide, $15.

With these you'd want a cheap vise type Chinese honing guide (they
are usually grey/silver painted), these actually are heavy and work
very well. This is the guide I use, same one comes under many names
and they are on eBay. Anywhere from $9 to $13. It is made to hold
both plane cutters and chisels, as long as they're not real thick ones
like current Stanleys. They have to be proper bench chisels.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...?v=glance&s=hi
http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com...71999363b3416d
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3114
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...Honing%20Guide
http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/10910
http://www.thewoodworkerschoice.com/...roduct_id=0239
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/M...egory_Code=THG

They are everywhere.

To set the bevels you have to measure how far out of the guide the
blade extends. I use the depth end of a Vernier caliper, this info is
on the guide's package and molded into the side of the guide, two
measurements each per type of blade, in metric.

The other items are a can of 3M super 77 adhesive spray, a can of
Bestine's rubber cement thinner ~or~ a can of s.p.e.c.s. paint thinner
works just as well (specifically), and cheaper. The dry glue must be
removed before applying new papers to avoid hills and valleys.

And a set of Norton sandpapers that are aluminum oxide, from 100,
220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1200. You can go as high as 1500 if you
can find it. On these papers I would look to the 'net for best pricing.
I skip 400 and 800 for drudgery, but this system works extremely well.

....just one economical idea for you,

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Thanks for taking the time to give me a detailed answer. Good stuff!

"AAvK" wrote in message
news:3IUUd.389$Ke.82@fed1read03...

I replied to this message with a further question about sharpening.
Subsequent to doing that I found a good web resource that answered my
question so I don't need any replies. I'm sorry I couldn't find this
sooner so I wouldn't waste people's time replying to my question.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...tml?page=1&c=y
Dick Snyder

That's OK, I'll answer anyway... it's a pleasu

I am not out to spend massive amounts of buckaroos on sharpening
because I am destitutely po'! heh heh... so I use the "scary sharp"
method.

On this you will find a wealth of info on the 'net for free. I will not
buy some companies SS outfit for too much dough either, I went to
my local (and wonderful) junk shop and bought a piece of glass that
is a serious 3/4" thick (highly expensive new, I paid $10), and a length
of marble around 24" long x 11" or so wide, $15.

With these you'd want a cheap vise type Chinese honing guide (they
are usually grey/silver painted), these actually are heavy and work
very well. This is the guide I use, same one comes under many names
and they are on eBay. Anywhere from $9 to $13. It is made to hold
both plane cutters and chisels, as long as they're not real thick ones
like current Stanleys. They have to be proper bench chisels.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...?v=glance&s=hi
http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com...71999363b3416d
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3114
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...Honing%20Guide
http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/10910
http://www.thewoodworkerschoice.com/...roduct_id=0239
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/M...egory_Code=THG

They are everywhere.

To set the bevels you have to measure how far out of the guide the
blade extends. I use the depth end of a Vernier caliper, this info is
on the guide's package and molded into the side of the guide, two
measurements each per type of blade, in metric.

The other items are a can of 3M super 77 adhesive spray, a can of
Bestine's rubber cement thinner ~or~ a can of s.p.e.c.s. paint thinner
works just as well (specifically), and cheaper. The dry glue must be
removed before applying new papers to avoid hills and valleys.

And a set of Norton sandpapers that are aluminum oxide, from 100,
220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1200. You can go as high as 1500 if you
can find it. On these papers I would look to the 'net for best pricing.
I skip 400 and 800 for drudgery, but this system works extremely well.

...just one economical idea for you,

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Dick Snyder wrote:
I replied to this message with a further question about sharpening.
Subsequent to doing that I found a good web resource that answered my

question so I don't need any replies. I'm sorry I couldn't find this
sooner
so I wouldn't waste people's time replying to my question.


http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...tml?page=1&c=y


Two comments on that article.

1) For good results you should hone finer that 1000 grit especially for
a place blade. 1000 grit will be OK for a scrubplane but cutters
for smoothing planes will more often be honed down to an 8,000
grti waterstone.

2) The specialized equipment needed to sharpen a saw is a trangular
file.
After a few sharpenings the teeh will need to be jointed, which
requires a medium ******* file and a holder--the holder can just
be a piece of rabbeted wood. And the teeth will need to be reset
which is done with a sawset, typically $5 to $10 at an antique
store.



Dick Snyder
"AAvK" wrote in message
news:wNLUd.19$Ke.6@fed1read03...

I mulled over this descision for quite a while, constantly looking
at low angle block planes for a few months. I discovered all
options
and prices, small and large, eBay is always loaded with them from
all makers but to get a decent Stanley 60 1/2 used is too much con-
sidering the condition, lots of japanning chipped off, and "just
old",
you might need a new $30 blade as well so why pay $50-$60 for
that plane, after all the bidding and waiting PLUS shipping???
Forget it.


I haven't priced them on eBay recently so I dunno what the going rate
is for a user. Chipped japaning has no effect on useablity and old
is good in terms fo fit and function. Typically an old block plane
will require less fettling than a new one to get it useable condition.
I like restoring planes so maybe that is what makes the difference
to me.

I'll agree that you can't go wrong with LN or LV though, and the plane
will be useable or at most require a slight honing to the blade
right out of the box.

--

FF

I'm a cheap bastuhd; here's my two cents worth:
For bench planes, I've bought all of mine off of ebay; other than a
gorgeous #4, haven't paid more than about $40, but it's been a while. I
can't really see paying ~$200 when you can get something quite
serviceable for quite a lot less.
I've also got a couple of older Stanley blocks -- a 220, and 60 1/2 --
both were ok, and I didn't pay a lot for either one, maybe $30 at the
most.
I've also got the low-angle LV block. Bang-for-the buck, this one's a
no-brainer. I'd buy it again in a heartbeat, and forgo the Stanley's.
"Only" ~$100, but you can make shavings with it right out of the box.
(get the chamfering attachment, if you go this route; it works really
well, and you'll learn all about reading grain. DAMHIKT.)
I don't mind fettling at all -- it's a part of the price of acquisition.
But I'd still forgo the Stanley block planes ...
(No affliation with LV, other than as a well satisfied customer ...)
Regards,
JT


Me, I 'm a po' bastud and I entirely agree with you. Nice and new and far
higher quality for not much more, is the way to go. Veritas!

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

It was somewhere outside Barstow when "Walt Cheever"
wrote:

I strongly second the Veritas apron plane.

I wouldn't. For the extra money, their adjustable mouth version is
even better. The Lee Valley / Veritas low angle block plane is one of
the few hand tools I've bought new over the last few years and really
been happy with.

It comes from the store (almost)
ready to use

What needs doing to it ? One of the things I like about Veritas is
that they send them out ready-to-roll. Most makers don't. Steve
Knight is another one who sets them up properly before shipping.

It was somewhere outside Barstow when "Dick Snyder"
wrote:

Speaking of sharpening, I have done a little research on this too and have
some more questions.

Yeah, well do about a dozen years research on it and then you'll be
_really_ confused over the options !

I see devices to hold the steel blade for sharpening,

Don't like them. They don't fit chisels, they don't fit wide plane
irons, the ones with narrow rollers groove the stones. The Veritas one
is about the best.

another device to hold it at a different angle for honing,

Honing is still at the same angle. The small shift to a steeper angle
is putting a "micro-bevel" onto it. This is a rather bad habit to get
into - it's useful, but makes sharpening at the real angle much
harder, if over-done. You're better learning to do a good job with a
single angle before you try.

For a plane iron on a flat stone, then you can quite easily "feel" the
angle and when you're holding the iron at the right angle. A cheap
brass angle gauge will allow you to measure what this is, and whether
it's right (a major chore in refurbing old planes).

You don't much care about the angle anyway. Get it vaguely right, then
worry about getting it flat and consistent. The wrong angle, done
well, will work pretty well for you.

As to the stone itself, then the favourites round here are Scary
Sharp, waterstones and maybe diamond stones.

Scary Sharp is quick and uses cheap materials.

Waterstones are a really good method, but a little fussy for a quick
touch up on one tool. They work better on harder steels, which is nice
for Japanese tools or A2.

Diamond stones are expensive and need as much care in looking after as
waterstones. The cheap ones aren't much good.

Leonard Lee's sharpening book is a great investment.

wrote
I'll agree that you can't go wrong with LN or LV though, and the plane
will be useable or at most require a slight honing to the blade
right out of the box.

John Thomas schreef
I've also got the low-angle LV block. Bang-for-the buck, this one's a
no-brainer. I'd buy it again in a heartbeat, and forgo the Stanley's.
"Only" ~$100, but you can make shavings with it right out of the box.
(get the chamfering attachment, if you go this route; it works really
well, and you'll learn all about reading grain. DAMHIKT.)

***
Belatedly, I'll support the LV low angle plane. Not sure if I am satisfied
with it (everytime I use it I want to redesign it), but it certainly does
the job better better than any other plane I ever used. Must be among my
three most used tools.

I don't think a Stanley 60 1/2 is useful for anything, not even as a door
stop.
PvR

On Fri, 18 Mar 2005 10:57:36 +0100, the inscrutable "P van
Rijckevorsel" spake:

wrote
I'll agree that you can't go wrong with LN or LV though, and the plane
will be useable or at most require a slight honing to the blade
right out of the box.

John Thomas schreef
I've also got the low-angle LV block. Bang-for-the buck, this one's a
no-brainer. I'd buy it again in a heartbeat, and forgo the Stanley's.
"Only" ~$100, but you can make shavings with it right out of the box.
(get the chamfering attachment, if you go this route; it works really
well, and you'll learn all about reading grain. DAMHIKT.)

***
Belatedly, I'll support the LV low angle plane. Not sure if I am satisfied
with it (everytime I use it I want to redesign it), but it certainly does
the job better better than any other plane I ever used. Must be among my
three most used tools.

I don't think a Stanley 60 1/2 is useful for anything, not even as a door
stop.

Hey, I'm more easygoing and know what to do with those things. Send
those two ugly doorstops to me, please. Got my address?

P.S: Thanks in advance.


----------------------------------------------------------
Please return Stewardess to her original upright position.
--------------------------------------
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I don't think a Stanley 60 1/2 is useful for anything, not even as a door
stop.

Larry Jaques schreef
Hey, I'm more easygoing and know what to do with those things. Send
those two ugly doorstops to me, please. Got my address?

***
Well, I might have but for two things:
1) mailing is prohibitively expensive
2) it might get sold to a dupe, who would then conclude that block planes
are no good and gets turned off for ever ...

On Fri, 18 Mar 2005 18:30:32 +0100, the inscrutable "P van
Rijckevorsel" spake:

I don't think a Stanley 60 1/2 is useful for anything, not even as a door
stop.

Larry Jaques schreef
Hey, I'm more easygoing and know what to do with those things. Send
those two ugly doorstops to me, please. Got my address?

***
Well, I might have but for two things:
1) mailing is prohibitively expensive

Did you notice that I didn't offer to fund that trip for them? g


2) it might get sold to a dupe, who would then conclude that block planes
are no good and gets turned off for ever ...

No, I'd definitely keep them. I absolutely adore my 60-1/2 with the
Hock iron in it, though that may be replaced by the Knight Small plane
which is on its way to me RSN.


----------------------------------------------------------
Please return Stewardess to her original upright position.
--------------------------------------
http://www.diversify.com Tagline-based T-shirts!

, the inscrutable "P van Rijckevorsel" spake:
I don't think a Stanley 60 1/2 is useful for anything, not even as a
door stop.

Larry Jaques schreef
Hey, I'm more easygoing and know what to do with those things. Send
those two ugly doorstops to me, please. Got my address?

2) it might get sold to a dupe, who would then conclude that block planes
are no good and gets turned off for ever ...

No, I'd definitely keep them. I absolutely adore my 60-1/2 with the
Hock iron in it, though that may be replaced by the Knight Small plane
which is on its way to me RSN.

***
Well, a heavier replacement blade would add to the weight and would increase
the suitability of a Stanley 60 1/2 as a doorstop. Still, it would not be
heavy enough to hold much of a door ....
PvR

On Sat, 19 Mar 2005 07:59:11 +0100, "P van Rijckevorsel"
scribbled:
***
Well, a heavier replacement blade would add to the weight and would increase
the suitability of a Stanley 60 1/2 as a doorstop. Still, it would not be
heavy enough to hold much of a door ....
PvR

You're supposed to wedge it under the door.

Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html