Router questions when using a router table
 

I just got done with my router table and have started using it. I was
wondering what to do when routing the end grain of boards to get a smooth
finish like it does going with the grain. Should I do multiple passes......
feed the piece slower, etc.
Also I bought a Bosch router set, 1617 EVSPK, and was wondering how you know
where to set the speed. It seems that the larger the bit, the slower the
speed and the harder the wood, the slower the speed... or at least that is
all the manual states. I"m sure it is something that goes along with
experience but just looking for a general rule...to get me started in the
right direction.
Thanks for all the comments and help.
Palmer

"Palmer" wrote in message
ink.net...
I just got done with my router table and have started using it. I was
wondering what to do when routing the end grain of boards to get a smooth
finish like it does going with the grain. Should I do multiple passes......
feed the piece slower, etc.

Since it is end grain, it will never be as smooth as the edge. I find a
slower feed rate helps though. I also start the end by climb cutting for a
tiny bit to prevent tearout. You can also use a backer board for this.


Also I bought a Bosch router set, 1617 EVSPK, and was wondering how you
know where to set the speed. It seems that the larger the bit, the slower
the speed and the harder the wood, the slower the speed... or at least
that is all the manual states. I"m sure it is something that goes along
with experience but just looking for a general rule...to get me started in
the right direction.

I have that same router in my table. I like it a lot.

A three inch diameter bit will have a tip speed much faster than a one inch
diameter bit. Too fast can be dangerous. There are guidelines published by
Woodzone. http://www.woodzone.com/tips/router_bit_speeds.htm

Bit Size (Diameter) Max Speed (rpm)

0-1” 24,000
Up to 2” 18,000
Up to 2-1/2” 16,000
Up to 3-1/2" 12,000
..

On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 04:07:57 GMT, "Palmer"
wrote:

what to do when routing the end grain of boards to get a smooth
finish like it does going with the grain. Should I do multiple passes......
feed the piece slower, etc.


try a helical bit.

Edwin has given you some good information. Backing up the stock is
good. It is similar to usiing a zero clearance insert on the tablesaw.
The block needs to fit tightly against the long grain side of the board
so cut the end grain first.

Climb cutting (feeding from left to right on the router table) can help
but you must be very careful because the router will attempt to pitch
the work across your shop and chew up your fingers.

You also got at least one point. If the profile will remove a bunch of
wood, make the cut in several passes. Move the fence to adjust the
depth of cut.

Some table operations are pressing the art. They may not be safe or
they're overly complicated.
As a rule, in those instances, the hand router takes over handily.
See the simple templet at the http://www.patwarner.com/rat.html link,
for example.

On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 04:07:57 GMT, "Palmer"
wrote:

I just got done with my router table and have started using it. I was
wondering what to do when routing the end grain of boards to get a smooth
finish like it does going with the grain. Should I do multiple passes......
feed the piece slower, etc.
Also I bought a Bosch router set, 1617 EVSPK, and was wondering how you know
where to set the speed. It seems that the larger the bit, the slower the
speed and the harder the wood, the slower the speed... or at least that is
all the manual states. I"m sure it is something that goes along with
experience but just looking for a general rule...to get me started in the
right direction.
Thanks for all the comments and help.
Palmer

====================
For end grain the General rules I have used are

GO SLOW...
Make Multiple passes

then reach for some sand paoer...

Bob Griffiths

"Palmer" wrote in message
ink.net...
I just got done with my router table and have started using it. I was
wondering what to do when routing the end grain of boards to get a smooth
finish like it does going with the grain. Should I do multiple
passes......
feed the piece slower, etc.
I usually use sanding to smooth out the end grain.
Jim

On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 04:23:12 +0000, Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"Palmer" wrote in message
ink.net...
I just got done with my router table and have started using it. I was
wondering what to do when routing the end grain of boards to get a
smooth finish like it does going with the grain. Should I do multiple
passes...... feed the piece slower, etc.

Since it is end grain, it will never be as smooth as the edge. I find a
slower feed rate helps though. I also start the end by climb cutting
for a tiny bit to prevent tearout. You can also use a backer board for
this.

I do everything suggested:
1. Multiple passes, with the first passes taking out only a small quantity
of wood
2. Slow feed with the first few passes (depending on how much wood needs
to be removed), but not on the final ones as too slow a feed may result in
burning.
3. Climb cutting for the first one or two passes. But I end my climb cut
before it reaches the other end as I have experienced tearout if I do the
whole thing.
4. I use a square backer board along the fence.

And I still occasionally get tearout.
--
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html

On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 22:44:01 +0000, "Luigi Zanasi"
wrote:

On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 04:23:12 +0000, Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"Palmer" wrote in message
ink.net...
I just got done with my router table and have started using it. I was
wondering what to do when routing the end grain of boards to get a
smooth finish like it does going with the grain. Should I do multiple
passes...... feed the piece slower, etc.

Since it is end grain, it will never be as smooth as the edge. I find a
slower feed rate helps though. I also start the end by climb cutting
for a tiny bit to prevent tearout. You can also use a backer board for
this.

I do everything suggested:
1. Multiple passes, with the first passes taking out only a small quantity
of wood
2. Slow feed with the first few passes (depending on how much wood needs
to be removed), but not on the final ones as too slow a feed may result in
burning.
3. Climb cutting for the first one or two passes. But I end my climb cut
before it reaches the other end as I have experienced tearout if I do the
whole thing.
4. I use a square backer board along the fence.

And I still occasionally get tearout.


try a spiral cutter.

On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 01:04:37 -0700, s wrote
(in article ):

On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 22:44:01 +0000, "Luigi Zanasi"
wrote:

On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 04:23:12 +0000, Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"Palmer" wrote in message
ink.net...
I just got done with my router table and have started using it. I was
wondering what to do when routing the end grain of boards to get a
smooth finish like it does going with the grain. Should I do multiple
passes...... feed the piece slower, etc.

Since it is end grain, it will never be as smooth as the edge. I find a
slower feed rate helps though. I also start the end by climb cutting
for a tiny bit to prevent tearout. You can also use a backer board for
this.

I do everything suggested:
1. Multiple passes, with the first passes taking out only a small quantity
of wood
2. Slow feed with the first few passes (depending on how much wood needs
to be removed), but not on the final ones as too slow a feed may result in
burning.
3. Climb cutting for the first one or two passes. But I end my climb cut
before it reaches the other end as I have experienced tearout if I do the
whole thing.
4. I use a square backer board along the fence.

And I still occasionally get tearout.


try a spiral cutter.

I think #4 should be #1. Also if you have cuts to make along the grain
direction, do those last so any tearout will be removed..

Bridger, timely info with your router doohicky! Usually I try to use a flush
trim bit but my project was a bit too strange (round) and your trick was
ideal...

-Bruce

On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 19:22:29 -0700, Bruce wrote:

On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 01:04:37 -0700, s wrote (in article
):

On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 22:44:01 +0000, "Luigi Zanasi"
wrote:
I do everything suggested:
1. Multiple passes, with the first passes taking out only a small
quantity of wood
2. Slow feed with the first few passes (depending on how much wood
needs to be removed), but not on the final ones as too slow a feed may
result in burning.
3. Climb cutting for the first one or two passes. But I end my climb
cut before it reaches the other end as I have experienced tearout if I
do the whole thing.
4. I use a square backer board along the fence.

And I still occasionally get tearout.

try a spiral cutter.

I agree with bridger on the spiral cutter if you're cutting a rebate, but
I was thinking mainly of doing profiles on endgrain (e.g. an ogee thinks
weegie). Unless bridger has a source for spiral cut profile bits?

I think #4 should be #1. Also if you have cuts to make along the grain
direction, do those last so any tearout will be removed..

Agreed.

Bridger, timely info with your router doohicky! Usually I try to use a
flush trim bit but my project was a bit too strange (round) and your
trick was ideal...

What's bridger's router doohicky?

--
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html

On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 19:22:29 -0700, Bruce wrote:

On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 01:04:37 -0700, s wrote
(in article ):

On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 22:44:01 +0000, "Luigi Zanasi"
wrote:

On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 04:23:12 +0000, Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"Palmer" wrote in message
ink.net...
I just got done with my router table and have started using it. I was
wondering what to do when routing the end grain of boards to get a
smooth finish like it does going with the grain. Should I do multiple
passes...... feed the piece slower, etc.

Since it is end grain, it will never be as smooth as the edge. I find a
slower feed rate helps though. I also start the end by climb cutting
for a tiny bit to prevent tearout. You can also use a backer board for
this.

I do everything suggested:
1. Multiple passes, with the first passes taking out only a small quantity
of wood
2. Slow feed with the first few passes (depending on how much wood needs
to be removed), but not on the final ones as too slow a feed may result in
burning.
3. Climb cutting for the first one or two passes. But I end my climb cut
before it reaches the other end as I have experienced tearout if I do the
whole thing.
4. I use a square backer board along the fence.

And I still occasionally get tearout.


try a spiral cutter.

I think #4 should be #1. Also if you have cuts to make along the grain
direction, do those last so any tearout will be removed..

Bridger, timely info with your router doohicky! Usually I try to use a flush
trim bit but my project was a bit too strange (round) and your trick was
ideal...

-Bruce


glad it helped.

On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 09:58:06 -0700, Luigi Zanasi wrote
(in article ):



What's bridger's router doohicky?



Current issue Fine Woodworking. A router jig to flush trim plywood edging.

On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 16:58:06 +0000, "Luigi Zanasi"
wrote:


I agree with bridger on the spiral cutter if you're cutting a rebate, but
I was thinking mainly of doing profiles on endgrain (e.g. an ogee thinks
weegie). Unless bridger has a source for spiral cut profile bits?


ah.. a profile... I missed that part....

On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 19:19:44 -0700, Bruce wrote:

On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 09:58:06 -0700, Luigi Zanasi wrote (in article
):
What's bridger's router doohicky?

Current issue Fine Woodworking. A router jig to flush trim plywood
edging.

Bridge, I hate you. After years of trying to balance routers on an edge,
trying to build wider "platforms" & clamping them on, buying a trim router
thinking it would help, planing off the veneer with a block plane, trying
to trim large panels on the router table, you had to come up with this!

--
Luigi
who just got his FWW today.

Since nobody has mentioned it yet...
Always do mutliple passes....much safer.
Mark


"Palmer" wrote in message
ink.net...
I just got done with my router table and have started using it. I was
wondering what to do when routing the end grain of boards to get a smooth
finish like it does going with the grain. Should I do multiple
passes......
feed the piece slower, etc.
Also I bought a Bosch router set, 1617 EVSPK, and was wondering how you
know
where to set the speed. It seems that the larger the bit, the slower the
speed and the harder the wood, the slower the speed... or at least that is
all the manual states. I"m sure it is something that goes along with
experience but just looking for a general rule...to get me started in the
right direction.
Thanks for all the comments and help.
Palmer

On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 21:50:23 +0000, "Luigi Zanasi"
wrote:

On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 19:19:44 -0700, Bruce wrote:

On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 09:58:06 -0700, Luigi Zanasi wrote (in article
):
What's bridger's router doohicky?

Current issue Fine Woodworking. A router jig to flush trim plywood
edging.

Bridge, I hate you. After years of trying to balance routers on an edge,
trying to build wider "platforms" & clamping them on, buying a trim router
thinking it would help, planing off the veneer with a block plane, trying
to trim large panels on the router table, you had to come up with this!


hee hee...

neener neener!

In article ,
wrote:

neener neener!

So where are the free plans?

;-)

--
"The thing about saying the wrong words is that A, I don't notice it, and B,
sometimes orange water gibbon bucket and plastic." -- Mr. Burrows