I am within a few days of having my workbench construction completed. The
top is constructed of 2 solid wood doors laminated together and faced with
oak ply and a full 1/2 X 6 inch oak apron, The base is constructed of
construction grade pine with 3/4 oak ply for the cabinet doors and side
panel inserts.

Hoping for some suggestions on what finish to use when I reach that point.
I would like to stain the entire project with minwax golden oak as we have
used it around the house and like the appearance. I need the top to be
water resistant so when I spill my drink or worse it won't soak into the
wood before I can wipe it up. I would also like easy glue cleanup, etc. I
have seen recommendations for poly, tung oil and boiled linseed oil. Will
the oils go over the stain? Are they water resistant? Should I finish my
base differently from my top? What about Spar urethane varnish over the
stain vs. the oils? Is stain even recommended? When folks refer to wipe on
poly, does this mean wiping on with a rag or a brush?

How about some of you seasoned experts giving a newbie some good advice. I
have worked long and hard on this project and want it to look nice when I'm
done. And yes, I know it won't stay looking nice for long, but I just want
it to look good for some pictures before I mess it up :~) I'll post some
pictures in ABW when I am done if I can get some help from y'all reaching
that point :~)

Many thanks in advance for any input I can get.

Bob N

Use poly over the stain, I've used the minwax poly with good results.
Scratches, dings and dents are inevitable, poly allows you to light sand and
re-coat

I have a roll of brown craft paper (36" w 40lb ) hanging in a dispenser. I
use this stuff for all sorts of things, but bought it for laying over bench
tops while gluing.



"Bob" wrote in message
news
I am within a few days of having my workbench construction completed. The
top is constructed of 2 solid wood doors laminated together and faced with
oak ply and a full 1/2 X 6 inch oak apron, The base is constructed of
construction grade pine with 3/4 oak ply for the cabinet doors and side
panel inserts.

Hoping for some suggestions on what finish to use when I reach that point.
I would like to stain the entire project with minwax golden oak as we have
used it around the house and like the appearance. I need the top to be
water resistant so when I spill my drink or worse it won't soak into the
wood before I can wipe it up. I would also like easy glue cleanup, etc.
I
have seen recommendations for poly, tung oil and boiled linseed oil. Will
the oils go over the stain? Are they water resistant? Should I finish my
base differently from my top? What about Spar urethane varnish over the
stain vs. the oils? Is stain even recommended? When folks refer to wipe
on
poly, does this mean wiping on with a rag or a brush?

How about some of you seasoned experts giving a newbie some good advice.
I
have worked long and hard on this project and want it to look nice when
I'm
done. And yes, I know it won't stay looking nice for long, but I just
want
it to look good for some pictures before I mess it up :~) I'll post some
pictures in ABW when I am done if I can get some help from y'all reaching
that point :~)

Many thanks in advance for any input I can get.

Bob N

I use an oil finish and re-apply it every year. You can apply an oil
or varnish over the stain, allow several days to dry between. The
bench will get scratched, dented, stained, etc if you are using it a
lot. I usually rest a drink or can of stain on newspaper.

Two solid core doors, is the top masonite?
I would use a poly. Your Minwax golden oak will do fine for a workbench
top. I don't think you will much color over the masonite. I finish the top
of my bench (birch) with whatever leftover polys I have.

Dave

"Bob" wrote in message
news
I am within a few days of having my workbench construction completed. The
top is constructed of 2 solid wood doors laminated together and faced with
oak ply and a full 1/2 X 6 inch oak apron, The base is constructed of
construction grade pine with 3/4 oak ply for the cabinet doors and side
panel inserts.

Hoping for some suggestions on what finish to use when I reach that point.
I would like to stain the entire project with minwax golden oak as we have
used it around the house and like the appearance. I need the top to be
water resistant so when I spill my drink or worse it won't soak into the
wood before I can wipe it up. I would also like easy glue cleanup, etc.
I
have seen recommendations for poly, tung oil and boiled linseed oil. Will
the oils go over the stain? Are they water resistant? Should I finish my
base differently from my top? What about Spar urethane varnish over the
stain vs. the oils? Is stain even recommended? When folks refer to wipe
on
poly, does this mean wiping on with a rag or a brush?

How about some of you seasoned experts giving a newbie some good advice.
I
have worked long and hard on this project and want it to look nice when
I'm
done. And yes, I know it won't stay looking nice for long, but I just
want
it to look good for some pictures before I mess it up :~) I'll post some
pictures in ABW when I am done if I can get some help from y'all reaching
that point :~)

Many thanks in advance for any input I can get.

Bob N

Two solid core doors, is the top masonite?
I would use a poly. Your Minwax golden oak will do fine for a workbench
top. I don't think you will much color over the masonite. I finish the top
of my bench (birch) with whatever leftover polys I have.

Dave

"Bob" wrote in message
news
I am within a few days of having my workbench construction completed. The
top is constructed of 2 solid wood doors laminated together and faced with
oak ply and a full 1/2 X 6 inch oak apron, The base is constructed of
construction grade pine with 3/4 oak ply for the cabinet doors and side
panel inserts.

Hoping for some suggestions on what finish to use when I reach that point.
I would like to stain the entire project with minwax golden oak as we have
used it around the house and like the appearance. I need the top to be
water resistant so when I spill my drink or worse it won't soak into the
wood before I can wipe it up. I would also like easy glue cleanup, etc.
I
have seen recommendations for poly, tung oil and boiled linseed oil. Will
the oils go over the stain? Are they water resistant? Should I finish my
base differently from my top? What about Spar urethane varnish over the
stain vs. the oils? Is stain even recommended? When folks refer to wipe
on
poly, does this mean wiping on with a rag or a brush?

How about some of you seasoned experts giving a newbie some good advice.
I
have worked long and hard on this project and want it to look nice when
I'm
done. And yes, I know it won't stay looking nice for long, but I just
want
it to look good for some pictures before I mess it up :~) I'll post some
pictures in ABW when I am done if I can get some help from y'all reaching
that point :~)

Many thanks in advance for any input I can get.

Bob N

"TeamCasa" wrote in :

Two solid core doors, is the top masonite?

I think I read that the top is 'oak ply', which means that next year, it
will be masonite. I can't see a veneer top holding up under workshop
conditions, regardless of the top coating.

It's a tool, not furniture. Oil, poly, wax, work, smile.

Patriarch

Ah.... but I have a couple of solutions for that also. I have a sheet of
hardboard to put on the top when working with the messy stuff then removing
when finished so the top will stay looking well when not in use.

Also the oak ply is removable and replaceable when it becomes "ugly" :~)

I know it is a tool and I try to keep all of my tools looking and working
their best this one will be no different.

Just don't know much about proper finishes yet and need a little advice to
get me on tract.

Many Thanks

Bob






"Patriarch" wrote in message
7.136...
"TeamCasa" wrote in :

Two solid core doors, is the top masonite?

I think I read that the top is 'oak ply', which means that next year, it
will be masonite. I can't see a veneer top holding up under workshop
conditions, regardless of the top coating.

It's a tool, not furniture. Oil, poly, wax, work, smile.

Patriarch

"Bob" wrote in
:

Ah.... but I have a couple of solutions for that also. I have a sheet
of hardboard to put on the top when working with the messy stuff then
removing when finished so the top will stay looking well when not in
use.

Also the oak ply is removable and replaceable when it becomes "ugly"
:~)

I know it is a tool and I try to keep all of my tools looking and
working their best this one will be no different.

Just don't know much about proper finishes yet and need a little
advice to get me on tract.


Then what you want to get is a quart of Waterlox Original and rag it on.

Three coats everywhere except the top. Then use the rest of the quart on
the top. Wipe it on until it won't absorb any more, then come back and do
the same thing the next day. Repeat until the can's empty.

When it needs touching up, scuff it with 120 grit, and do it again.

Good stuff. About $18 per quart. Standard oil rag safety protocols apply.

Patriarch

Patriarch,

That sounds like a good plan and one I have not looked at. Will it work
with stain?

Thanks for the tip.

Bob


"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 97.136...
"Bob" wrote in
:

Ah.... but I have a couple of solutions for that also. I have a sheet
of hardboard to put on the top when working with the messy stuff then
removing when finished so the top will stay looking well when not in
use.

Also the oak ply is removable and replaceable when it becomes "ugly"
:~)

I know it is a tool and I try to keep all of my tools looking and
working their best this one will be no different.

Just don't know much about proper finishes yet and need a little
advice to get me on tract.


Then what you want to get is a quart of Waterlox Original and rag it on.

Three coats everywhere except the top. Then use the rest of the quart on
the top. Wipe it on until it won't absorb any more, then come back and do
the same thing the next day. Repeat until the can's empty.

When it needs touching up, scuff it with 120 grit, and do it again.

Good stuff. About $18 per quart. Standard oil rag safety protocols
apply.

Patriarch

Patriarch wrote in
. 97.136:

Then what you want to get is a quart of Waterlox Original and rag it
on.

Three coats everywhere except the top. Then use the rest of the quart
on the top. Wipe it on until it won't absorb any more, then come back
and do the same thing the next day. Repeat until the can's empty.

When it needs touching up, scuff it with 120 grit, and do it again.

Good stuff. About $18 per quart. Standard oil rag safety protocols
apply.

Hi Patriarch,

Where do you get your Waterlox? Their web site says it's available at True
Value stores, but I have yet to find one that stocks it. I have taken to
ordering mine via mailorder from Highland Hardware.

I've been using Waterlox since last Christmas ... first on a series of game
boxes made from cherry, walnut, and mahogany scraps. Recently I'm
finishing an unusual project (telescope) made from mahogany and Peruvian
walnut.

"Bob" wrote in
news
Patriarch,

That sounds like a good plan and one I have not looked at. Will it
work with stain?


Yes. Let the (solvent-based) stain cure a couple of days, and you'll be
happier with the results. I've used the soy-based Varathane stains on
several projects, under Waterlox, with success.

Patriarch

Nate Perkins wrote in
. 125.201:

snip)
Hi Patriarch,

Where do you get your Waterlox? Their web site says it's available at
True Value stores, but I have yet to find one that stocks it. I have
taken to ordering mine via mailorder from Highland Hardware.


My [relatively] local Woodcraft outlet(s) [gloat] stock it, in several
flavors. And last week, it was on the overstock (30% off) table. Someone
cancelled an order for a case of quarts, for some reason.

There is a reported problem with gelling in the can, once open, so don't
order more than you're likely use within a couple of months. Some of the
turners on Woodcentral report that they transfer to smaller, glass
containers for storage, with success.

Patriarch

On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 06:20:12 GMT, the inscrutable Nate Perkins
spake:

Patriarch wrote in
.97.136:

Then what you want to get is a quart of Waterlox Original and rag it
on.

Hi Patriarch,

Where do you get your Waterlox? Their web site says it's available at True
Value stores, but I have yet to find one that stocks it. I have taken to
ordering mine via mailorder from Highland Hardware.

I get mine from Russ at www.woodfinishingsupplies.com
The Original in medium sheen is $16.99/qt. or $45.99/gal.

--
************************************************** *********
"Boy, I feel safer now that Martha Stewart is behind bars!
O.J. is walking around free, Osama Bin Laden too, but they
take the one woman in America willing to cook and clean
and work in the yard and haul her ass to jail."
--Tim Allen
************************************************** *********

Patriarch wrote in
. 97.136:

....
There is a reported problem with gelling in the can, once open, so
don't order more than you're likely use within a couple of months.
Some of the turners on Woodcentral report that they transfer to
smaller, glass containers for storage, with success.

Hmm, I did have a problem with gelling in the last inch of my quart can. I
had assumed that I didn't put the lid on tightly enough.

Larry Jaques wrote in
:

I get mine from Russ at www.woodfinishingsupplies.com
The Original in medium sheen is $16.99/qt. or $45.99/gal.


Ouch, I've been paying 26 bucks for a quart from Highland, plus shipping on
top of that.

On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 06:29:15 GMT, the inscrutable Nate Perkins
spake:

Larry Jaques wrote in
:

I get mine from Russ at www.woodfinishingsupplies.com
The Original in medium sheen is $16.99/qt. or $45.99/gal.


Ouch, I've been paying 26 bucks for a quart from Highland, plus shipping on
top of that.

I ordered a gallon last night after I "talked" with you. That and
a quart of clear waterborne acrylic which I wanted to try spraying.
I don't like glosses but some folks do, so I thought I'd give it a try
on something I wasn't going to keep, prolly a jarrah table.

Shipping for that weight + some pint and quart containers came to $11
and change, not nearly as bad as I feared.


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