I know to lightly sand between coats of poly. Do you also lightly sand
after the final coat - or is the final coat the final finsh?

Thanks

I use 0000 steel wool with Johnson's paste wax to give the wood a sensuous
feel.

Walt C


"Corey" wrote in message
news:OKMRd.27930$uc.3932@trnddc08...
I know to lightly sand between coats of poly. Do you also lightly sand
after the final coat - or is the final coat the final finsh?

Thanks

"Corey" wrote in message
news:OKMRd.27930$uc.3932@trnddc08...
I know to lightly sand between coats of poly. Do you also lightly sand
after the final coat - or is the final coat the final finsh?

Thanks

Don't have to. May not want to. Some people can't abide a shine, so they
degloss the surface. Some people, like turners, like the shine, so they
buff it.

On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 20:16:33 GMT, "Walt Cheever" wrote:

I use 0000 steel wool with Johnson's paste wax to give the wood a sensuous
feel.

Walt C

That sounds border-line kinky, Walt..
you don't have red velvet tool holders, do you? *lmao*



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 20:16:33 GMT, "Walt Cheever" wrote:

I use 0000 steel wool with Johnson's paste wax to give the wood a sensuous
feel.

Walt C

That sounds border-line kinky, Walt..
you don't have red velvet tool holders, do you? *lmao*

Yep--and latte too.
The steel wool/wax treatment is real inspirational, and it smells sooooo
fine.

Bob

On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 10:34:30 -0700, Bob Schmall wrote
(in article ):


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 20:16:33 GMT, "Walt Cheever" wrote:

I use 0000 steel wool with Johnson's paste wax to give the wood a sensuous
feel.

Walt C

That sounds border-line kinky, Walt..
you don't have red velvet tool holders, do you? *lmao*

Yep--and latte too.
The steel wool/wax treatment is real inspirational, and it smells sooooo
fine.

Bob



So let me get this straight..

I have always used 0000 steel wool _followed_ with some Johnson wax.
Are you using the wool _with_ the wax?

BTW, the wife always giggles when I show her my can of Johnson wax 8^)

-Bruce

There are two reasons for for sanding between coats. One is to improve
adhesion. The other is to level the surface as you build up the film.

Some poly's have a recoat period where sanding is not required. How much you
want to level the surface depends entirely on what you want to finish with.

And, that's exactly what you didn't say. IOW, what look do you want to end
with? For a low gloss finish without filled grain, I sand after the seal to
remove wood nibs, then just use a hand scraper between coats to cut any
imperfections. The final coat gives about a 1200 grit sheen and isn't touched.

Course, if you want to end up with something else, then you do something else.
For instance, to get filled grain and a 20000+ grit "piano" finish, I'd sand
to level between most coats, then rub out the final coat.

So, if what you end up with looks like what you want, leave it alone. If too
shiny, then sand it down. However, other noted steel wool. Fine on oil based
poly; not good on water base, even after dried. Pieces of iron will remain,
and unless fully cured (30 days) some water will remain, or you may want to
recoat in the future.

GerryG

On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 19:49:02 GMT, "Corey" wrote:

I know to lightly sand between coats of poly. Do you also lightly sand
after the final coat - or is the final coat the final finsh?

Thanks

"Bruce" wrote in message ...
On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 10:34:30 -0700, Bob Schmall wrote
(in article ):


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 20:16:33 GMT, "Walt Cheever"
wrote:

I use 0000 steel wool with Johnson's paste wax to give the wood a
sensuous
feel.

Walt C

That sounds border-line kinky, Walt..
you don't have red velvet tool holders, do you? *lmao*

Yep--and latte too.
The steel wool/wax treatment is real inspirational, and it smells sooooo
fine.

Bob



So let me get this straight..

I have always used 0000 steel wool _followed_ with some Johnson wax.
Are you using the wool _with_ the wax?

BTW, the wife always giggles when I show her my can of Johnson wax 8^)

-Bruce

1. The serious side: I use the 0000 alone, followed by paste wax applied
with 0000. You could use the wax applied with a soft cloth just as well.
2.The other side: I just did a mass mailing for a club. One of the
addressees lives on Short Johnson Road.

Bob

On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 04:06:21 GMT, GerryG wrote:

There are two reasons for for sanding between coats. One is to improve
adhesion. The other is to level the surface as you build up the film.

Some poly's have a recoat period where sanding is not required. How much you
want to level the surface depends entirely on what you want to finish with.

And, that's exactly what you didn't say. IOW, what look do you want to end
with? For a low gloss finish without filled grain, I sand after the seal to
remove wood nibs, then just use a hand scraper between coats to cut any
imperfections. The final coat gives about a 1200 grit sheen and isn't touched.

Course, if you want to end up with something else, then you do something else.
For instance, to get filled grain and a 20000+ grit "piano" finish, I'd sand
to level between most coats, then rub out the final coat.

So, if what you end up with looks like what you want, leave it alone. If too
shiny, then sand it down. However, other noted steel wool. Fine on oil based
poly; not good on water base, even after dried. Pieces of iron will remain,
and unless fully cured (30 days) some water will remain, or you may want to
recoat in the future.

GerryG

I don't use water based poly, but have been using "synthetic" steel wool, which
I really like..
Washable/reusable, not rust, no particles of steel left, etc...



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing