Contrasting edge -- stain and glue conundrum
 

Hi,

I'm fairly new to woodworking, and I'm building a set of walnut tables
for my living room. The tops are walnut plywood with a solid walnut
edge. Here's the tricky part: the edges are going to be stained a
very dark color to contrast with the natural walnut of the rest of the
table (not my idea, but I'm not calling the shots here.)

What I decided to do, in order to create a perfect line between the two
colors, is to stain the edges ahead of time. I masked off all of the
surfaces that will receive glue, and I'm ready to attach the edges to
the top with some biscuits.

The question is, how can I prevent the glue squeezeout from ruining the
look of the joint? Obviously sanding after glue-up is not an option
because of the stain -- I need some advice on how to get rid of the
squeezeout without marring either the stained edge or the delicate
plywood on the other side of the joint. Any thoughts you have would be
much appreciated!

By the way, in case this is at all useful, I'm planning to fill the
pores and finish the top with Waterlox.

Thanks,
John

"John" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

I'm fairly new to woodworking, and I'm building a set of walnut tables
for my living room. The tops are walnut plywood with a solid walnut
edge. Here's the tricky part: the edges are going to be stained a
very dark color to contrast with the natural walnut of the rest of the
table (not my idea, but I'm not calling the shots here.)

What I decided to do, in order to create a perfect line between the two
colors, is to stain the edges ahead of time. I masked off all of the
surfaces that will receive glue, and I'm ready to attach the edges to
the top with some biscuits.

The question is, how can I prevent the glue squeezeout from ruining the
look of the joint? Obviously sanding after glue-up is not an option
because of the stain -- I need some advice on how to get rid of the
squeezeout without marring either the stained edge or the delicate
plywood on the other side of the joint. Any thoughts you have would be
much appreciated!

If I were doing this this I would choose a naturally darker wood to contrast
on the edges. Wenge for example would be pretty dark compared to the
walnut.

Or cut a relief around the perimeter of the plywood top before attaching the
walnut trim. Cut with the TS a 1/16 wide and 1/16" deep recess around the
top edge of the plywood. This will hide the joint in the shadow between the
surface of the plywood and the walnut trim. With the resulting grove you
can mask the walnut plywood area and stain the outer solid wood trim.

"John" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

I'm fairly new to woodworking, and I'm building a set of walnut tables
for my living room. The tops are walnut plywood with a solid walnut
edge. Here's the tricky part: the edges are going to be stained a
very dark color to contrast with the natural walnut of the rest of the
table (not my idea, but I'm not calling the shots here.)

What I decided to do, in order to create a perfect line between the two
colors, is to stain the edges ahead of time. I masked off all of the
surfaces that will receive glue, and I'm ready to attach the edges to
the top with some biscuits.

The question is, how can I prevent the glue squeezeout from ruining the
look of the joint? Obviously sanding after glue-up is not an option
because of the stain -- I need some advice on how to get rid of the
squeezeout without marring either the stained edge or the delicate
plywood on the other side of the joint. Any thoughts you have would be
much appreciated!

By the way, in case this is at all useful, I'm planning to fill the
pores and finish the top with Waterlox.

Thanks,
John

blue masking tape

The question is, how can I prevent the glue squeezeout from ruining
the
look of the joint? Obviously sanding after glue-up is not an option
because of the stain -- I need some advice on how to get rid of the
squeezeout without marring either the stained edge or the delicate
plywood on the other side of the joint. Any thoughts you have would
be
much appreciated!

I don't see how this could ever work. No matter how good your glue up
of the edge, it won't be perfect, and you will need to sand the top of
the table.

I agree with the other poster in using a darker wood for the edging.

You know that walnut is going to lighten considerably over time?

On 15 Feb 2005 15:31:30 -0800, the inscrutable "John"
spake:

Hi,

I'm fairly new to woodworking, and I'm building a set of walnut tables
for my living room. The tops are walnut plywood with a solid walnut
edge. Here's the tricky part: the edges are going to be stained a
very dark color to contrast with the natural walnut of the rest of the
table (not my idea, but I'm not calling the shots here.)

Condolences. Question: Has SWCTS (She who's calling the shots) seen
the finished walnut next to her ebonized trim yet? Do that before you
potentially ruin the piece. She may not know that walnut darkens
considerably when an oil finish goes on, even Waterlox.


What I decided to do, in order to create a perfect line between the two
colors, is to stain the edges ahead of time. I masked off all of the
surfaces that will receive glue, and I'm ready to attach the edges to
the top with some biscuits.

That might help, but be sure the stain is glue-compatible. A
waterborne dye stain should be, but check with the mfgr first.


The question is, how can I prevent the glue squeezeout from ruining the
look of the joint? Obviously sanding after glue-up is not an option
because of the stain -- I need some advice on how to get rid of the
squeezeout without marring either the stained edge or the delicate
plywood on the other side of the joint. Any thoughts you have would be
much appreciated!

By the way, in case this is at all useful, I'm planning to fill the
pores and finish the top with Waterlox.

Good call on the Waterlox, but I prefer an open pore look/feel myself.

To keep glue from sticking, put a couple coats of finish on the
individual pieces before jointing and gluing. The glue should pop
right off the varnish.


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