Greetings:

Anyone out there still using old / vintage hand power tools?

I have an old power saw that I really like and don't want to part
with for something newer but the cord is getting frayed.

How hard is it to install a new cord and upgrade to a grounded plug?

Any on-line 'how-to' links for this procedure?

Any on-line sources for cords / parts like this?

Thanks!

Japhy
Lex, KY

Homestores have excellent cords.
Connect the green wire to the metal body of the tool.
Wilson
"Japhy R" wrote in message
oups.com...
Greetings:

Anyone out there still using old / vintage hand power tools?

I have an old power saw that I really like and don't want to part
with for something newer but the cord is getting frayed.

How hard is it to install a new cord and upgrade to a grounded plug?

Any on-line 'how-to' links for this procedure?

Any on-line sources for cords / parts like this?

Thanks!

Japhy
Lex, KY

You want to get a cord with a proper strain relief. If the strain relief is
good, use the appropriate gage from the home center. You'll find it cheaper
to buy an extension cord with molded plug than a plug and a cord. Just keep
them short like the originals, don't be tempted to use the 15'.

If it is already double-insulated, it needs no grounding. Might choose wrong
and "ground" to the part of the tool which is powered by the hot lead.
http://www.tva.gov/power/homesafety.htm

Plastic cases can be glued as well as screwed together, so be sure and hunt
manuals if you didn't save 'em.

"Wilson Lamb" wrote in message
. net...
Homestores have excellent cords.
Connect the green wire to the metal body of the tool.
Wilson
"Japhy R" wrote in message
oups.com...
Greetings:

Anyone out there still using old / vintage hand power tools?

I have an old power saw that I really like and don't want to part
with for something newer but the cord is getting frayed.

How hard is it to install a new cord and upgrade to a grounded plug?

Any on-line 'how-to' links for this procedure?

Any on-line sources for cords / parts like this?

Thanks!

Japhy
Lex, KY

On 14 Feb 2005 03:59:44 -0800, "Japhy R"
wrote:

Greetings:

Anyone out there still using old / vintage hand power tools?

I have an old power saw that I really like and don't want to part
with for something newer but the cord is getting frayed.

How hard is it to install a new cord and upgrade to a grounded plug?

Any on-line 'how-to' links for this procedure?

Any on-line sources for cords / parts like this?

Thanks!

Japhy
Lex, KY

Better change like for like. What I mean is that if it's a two wire
cord, replace with a two wire cord with conductors of same gage and
length. I wouldn't try to retrofit a 3 wire (grounded) cord onto an
old product because you may not know what would be the proper place to
attached the grounding wire.

Is the product UL listed? If so, it's been tested to be safe for the
vintage of it's manufacture with a two wire cord.

And if the tool is double insulated, you probably wouldn't want or
need the three wire cord.

Personally, I get a direct replacement part for a damaged cord or I
get a new tool. No screwing around with trying to modify something I
didn't design.

All this is my opinion, nothing said here should be construed as me
saying to any of that or none of that. Buyer Beware. Ceveat Emptor
YMMV. Do at your own risk.

Japhy R wrote:

....
How hard is it to install a new cord and upgrade to a grounded plug?

Best to stay w/ original...others have addressed.

Any on-line 'how-to' links for this procedure?

If you need them, you're in over your head...just put it back the way it
was.

Any on-line sources for cords / parts like this?

DigiKey may although they're more electronics...Grainger is another good
possibility. Google for "molded cord set" will undoubtedly find
millions from which to winnow your way down...

Your local electric supply may help as well.

I've had some success, depending on the style and vintage, in salvaging
the molded strain relief and threading a new cord through it.
Particularly if the mold was added later, the cord can be often be
destructively removed and a new one inserted. I have even managed to
"freeze" one in particular I was particularly fond of and saw a slot on
the bandsaw and then epoxy it back together...having a LPG tank is
sometimes of more use than simply filling up the tractor!

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
You want to get a cord with a proper strain relief. If the strain relief
is
good, use the appropriate gage from the home center. You'll find it
cheaper
to buy an extension cord with molded plug than a plug and a cord. Just
keep
them short like the originals, don't be tempted to use the 15'.


LOL.
Now there is an idea to make you drill as portable as a cordless. A drill
with an orange 100' power cord.

"Lazarus Long" wrote in message
...

Better change like for like. What I mean is that if it's a two wire
cord, replace with a two wire cord with conductors of same gage and
length. I wouldn't try to retrofit a 3 wire (grounded) cord onto an
old product because you may not know what would be the proper place to
attached the grounding wire.

If it's old enough to have a metal case then the gound point is obvious. If
it's not a metal case then the ground issue is equally obvious.


Is the product UL listed? If so, it's been tested to be safe for the
vintage of it's manufacture with a two wire cord.


This is only true to a point. Plenty of stuff was UL approved before better
ways become common practice. If your assertion were true then we'd never
have seen the evolution to grounded plugs or double insulated designs. Lots
of those trusty old tools of old with metal cases have been known to impart
a shocking experience on the user - and they were UL approved. The purpose
of putting the ground on is to add a measure of safety if something goes
wrong. Not a bad idea for a tool with a metal case.

And if the tool is double insulated, you probably wouldn't want or
need the three wire cord.

True.


Personally, I get a direct replacement part for a damaged cord or I
get a new tool. No screwing around with trying to modify something I
didn't design.

Oh, c'mon - you're not giving yourself enough credit...


All this is my opinion, nothing said here should be construed as me
saying to any of that or none of that. Buyer Beware. Ceveat Emptor
YMMV. Do at your own risk.


You forgot - "operators are standing by to take your order now..." and
"offer not available in stores..."

--

-Mike-

"Leon" wrote in message
om...

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
You want to get a cord with a proper strain relief. If the strain
relief
is
good, use the appropriate gage from the home center. You'll find it
cheaper
to buy an extension cord with molded plug than a plug and a cord. Just
keep
them short like the originals, don't be tempted to use the 15'.


LOL.
Now there is an idea to make you drill as portable as a cordless. A drill
with an orange 100' power cord.



psssssttttt... Leon - I think everyone went to yellow now...

--

-Mike-

On Mon, 14 Feb 2005 17:10:32 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:


"George" george@least wrote in message
...
You want to get a cord with a proper strain relief. If the strain relief
is
good, use the appropriate gage from the home center. You'll find it
cheaper
to buy an extension cord with molded plug than a plug and a cord. Just
keep
them short like the originals, don't be tempted to use the 15'.


LOL.
Now there is an idea to make you drill as portable as a cordless. A drill
with an orange 100' power cord.

My drywall screwgun has a 50' extension cord replacement for the
original 6' cord. I like cords that are long enough to use in the shop
without an extension cord, so 12' - 25' is good for a lot of tools. If
you use them on construction jobs you may find (as I did with the
screwgun) that an even longer cord is nice.

There really isn't any reason for keeping the cord short as long as
you use reasonable caution not to walk/drive/set heavy stuff on it.

Tim Douglass

http://www.DouglassClan.com

"George" george@least wrote:
Just keep them short like the originals, don't be tempted to use the 15'.


Why not? I and many others have added a 100' cord to our Mag77 saws. It
much easier if the connection is (twist locked) stable and not being dragged
around walls and such.

Although, this is the only application I would extend a cord to that length.

Dave



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On Mon, 14 Feb 2005 12:28:14 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:


"Lazarus Long" wrote in message
.. .

Is the product UL listed? If so, it's been tested to be safe for the
vintage of it's manufacture with a two wire cord.


This is only true to a point. Plenty of stuff was UL approved...
... and they were UL approved.

Actually L. was more correct than you. Underwriters Laboratories
doesn't *approve* anything. They perform tests on products to verify
that they conform to requirements established by insurance companies
(the "Underwriters" in UL) and place them on a list of products that
conform. That is why it is correct to say "UL listed" and not correct
to say "UL approved."

Your chronology point embedded in the technical misfire, however, is
well taken.

- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

"Tim Douglass" wrote in message
...
My drywall screwgun has a 50' extension cord replacement for the
original 6' cord. I like cords that are long enough to use in the shop
without an extension cord, so 12' - 25' is good for a lot of tools. If
you use them on construction jobs you may find (as I did with the
screwgun) that an even longer cord is nice.

There really isn't any reason for keeping the cord short as long as
you use reasonable caution not to walk/drive/set heavy stuff on it.


Yes. Really no worse than plugging your drill or what ever into a 50' or
100' extension cord.

"LRod" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 14 Feb 2005 12:28:14 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:


"Lazarus Long" wrote in message
.. .

Is the product UL listed? If so, it's been tested to be safe for the
vintage of it's manufacture with a two wire cord.


This is only true to a point. Plenty of stuff was UL approved...
... and they were UL approved.

Actually L. was more correct than you. Underwriters Laboratories
doesn't *approve* anything. They perform tests on products to verify
that they conform to requirements established by insurance companies
(the "Underwriters" in UL) and place them on a list of products that
conform. That is why it is correct to say "UL listed" and not correct
to say "UL approved."

Your chronology point embedded in the technical misfire, however, is
well taken.


I stand corrected. I even knew that UL does not approve anything - really,
I did. It was a slip.
--

-Mike-