TS Extension Table and Cast Iron Wing
 

Hiya All,
Am in the process of putting my G1023SL together and have hit a bit of a
dillema.
I'm putting an extension table on the right side that will ultimately house
a router
plate but I really don't want to lose the RH cast iron wing. I've seen
where some have
kept the wing and put the table on as well. How has that worked out for
you all?
I'm going to be using a Vega fence which is built to house an extension
table and I've got
legs to go at the far end. I'm worried that a) it might just be too
difficult to keep 3 surfaces flat
with one another over time and b) not sure if the cast iron wing is up for
the task of holding up the
table. I suppose I could rig some other legs to be closer to the cast
iron wing or should I just cut
the extension table down (currently 45" long).

Thanks much!
Cheers,
cc

James "Cubby" Culbertson wrote:
Hiya All,
Am in the process of putting my G1023SL together and have hit a bit of a
dillema.
I'm putting an extension table on the right side that will ultimately house
a router
plate but I really don't want to lose the RH cast iron wing. I've seen
where some have
kept the wing and put the table on as well. How has that worked out for
you all?


I did it with my Ridgid TS2424 contractor's saw and it's worked out just fine.
It's kind of nice having the extra table length on the left side. Most of the
time I leave the router down and the fence off so the table saw is the primary
tool. Switching only takes a moment.


--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

VE

On Sun, 9 Jan 2005 01:14:46 -0700, "James \"Cubby\" Culbertson"
wrote:


table. I suppose I could rig some other legs to be closer to the cast
iron wing or should I just cut
the extension table down (currently 45" long).

Many cast iron wings have holes in both sides, as in against the saw
and against air. Use the outside holes to attach the table board to
the wing, no inboard legs are necessary. Shorten the table board if
necessary, or leave it long if you've got the space.

No outside holes in the wing? Drill some.

I'll take iron over plywood any day!

Barry

Thanks Barry. I will have to drill through the cast iron wing to mount the
table.
I was a little concerned the stress put on the wing might be too much
without inboard legs.
Sounds like that's not a concern. I'm wiring up 220V today and will start
putting the rest
of the saw together tonight maybe.
Cheers,
cc

"Ba r r y" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Jan 2005 01:14:46 -0700, "James \"Cubby\" Culbertson"
wrote:


table. I suppose I could rig some other legs to be closer to the cast
iron wing or should I just cut
the extension table down (currently 45" long).

Many cast iron wings have holes in both sides, as in against the saw
and against air. Use the outside holes to attach the table board to
the wing, no inboard legs are necessary. Shorten the table board if
necessary, or leave it long if you've got the space.

No outside holes in the wing? Drill some.

I'll take iron over plywood any day!

Barry

"James "Cubby" Culbertson" wrote in message ...
Thanks Barry. I will have to drill through the cast iron wing to mount the
table.
I was a little concerned the stress put on the wing might be too much
without inboard legs.
Sounds like that's not a concern. I'm wiring up 220V today and will start
putting the rest
of the saw together tonight maybe.
Cheers,
cc

My Jet contractor saw came with iron wings and a short extension on the right side. The whole thing is supported across the back of the the saw with 1.5" angle iron. The front also has angle iron running the entire width to support the fence rail. All of these surface have stayed as flush as the day I put them together.

The only modification I made was some fancy legs on the outside edge of the extension table made with leftover 2x4s and lag bolts for levelers. This was necessary because I 'accidentally' leaned on the extension table and the saw almost fell over.

"Ray" wrote in message ...
My Jet contractor saw came with iron wings and a short extension on the right side. The whole thing is supported across the back of the the saw with 1.5" angle iron.

The angle iron across the back also gave me a great place to mount an outfeed table.

Hi (again) Cubby,

If you are going to start drilling in the metal,
check the Shop-Fox shipping box before you
sell it.

There is a bit & tap in there for those who might
buy the fence as an add-on.

Just in case you haven't opened it.

Lou

In article , James \"Cubby\"
Culbertson wrote:

Thanks Barry. I will have to drill through the cast iron wing to mount the
table.
I was a little concerned the stress put on the wing might be too much
without inboard legs.
Sounds like that's not a concern. I'm wiring up 220V today and will start
putting the rest
of the saw together tonight maybe.
Cheers,
cc

"Ba r r y" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Jan 2005 01:14:46 -0700, "James \"Cubby\" Culbertson"
wrote:


table. I suppose I could rig some other legs to be closer to the cast
iron wing or should I just cut
the extension table down (currently 45" long).

Many cast iron wings have holes in both sides, as in against the saw
and against air. Use the outside holes to attach the table board to
the wing, no inboard legs are necessary. Shorten the table board if
necessary, or leave it long if you've got the space.

No outside holes in the wing? Drill some.

I'll take iron over plywood any day!

Barry

Thanks Lou! I haven't even opened the box and would never have thought to.
I appreciate
the head's up. I will have to drill so this will help me immensely and
save me having to dig through
my coffee can of drill bits!
Cheers,
cc

"loutent" wrote in message
...
Hi (again) Cubby,

If you are going to start drilling in the metal,
check the Shop-Fox shipping box before you
sell it.

There is a bit & tap in there for those who might
buy the fence as an add-on.

Just in case you haven't opened it.

Lou

In article , James \"Cubby\"
Culbertson wrote:

Thanks Barry. I will have to drill through the cast iron wing to mount
the
table.
I was a little concerned the stress put on the wing might be too much
without inboard legs.
Sounds like that's not a concern. I'm wiring up 220V today and will
start
putting the rest
of the saw together tonight maybe.
Cheers,
cc

"Ba r r y" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Jan 2005 01:14:46 -0700, "James \"Cubby\" Culbertson"
wrote:


table. I suppose I could rig some other legs to be closer to the
cast
iron wing or should I just cut
the extension table down (currently 45" long).

Many cast iron wings have holes in both sides, as in against the saw
and against air. Use the outside holes to attach the table board to
the wing, no inboard legs are necessary. Shorten the table board if
necessary, or leave it long if you've got the space.

No outside holes in the wing? Drill some.

I'll take iron over plywood any day!

Barry

James "Cubby" Culbertson wrote:
Thanks Barry. I will have to drill through the cast iron wing to mount the
table.
I was a little concerned the stress put on the wing might be too much
without inboard legs.
Sounds like that's not a concern.

The fence rails should also stiffen the whole assembly.

Barry