I'm in need of a good dado cutter to make 1/2" box joints in a drawer unit
I'm building. I currently have a carbide tipped wobble dado blade but its
setups are not accurately repeatable and the results look like the piece has
been worked over by a dull toothed beaver. I've been looking at reviews of
the Freud SD208 because it has carbide tips and it's less than half the
price of the Forrest Dado King.

I've seen comments, however, that the unit produces some chipping and/or
tearout, even in materials that would be considered easily machined. Is
this true? If so, how bad is the problem? Or are the complainers just
being too picky? I plan to use 1/2" Baltic birch ply for the drawer boxes.

Obviously, I'd like my project to be as eye appealing as possible but for
the extra $150, I can live with some minor blemishes.

On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 17:59:48 GMT, "Chuck Hoffman"
wrote:

I've been looking at reviews of
the Freud SD208 because it has carbide tips and it's less than half the
price of the Forrest Dado King.

I've seen comments, however, that the unit produces some chipping and/or
tearout, even in materials that would be considered easily machined. Is
this true? If so, how bad is the problem? Or are the complainers just
being too picky?

I have both tools.

I used the 208 for 6 years, the DK is about 4 times. I am being VERY
picky when I compare the two. Many people wouldn't notice the
difference. The main difference in the two is what happens on the end
of cuts, in splintery woods like red oak. Most of the tear out can be
prevented by properly supporting the back of the cut, applying tape to
the face before cutting or pre-scoring the dado edges. A test cut
will let you know if the material you're working with needs the extra
treatment.

The DK lets me get lazy and saves some time, and I like the 3/32"
chipper.

Barry

If you need the dado blade, it's a good choice but for your project, you
could build a Lynn's jig for about $6 and be able to do any size boxjoints
at any thickness you wanted with your standard 1/8 blade.

Don

"Chuck Hoffman" wrote in message
news
I'm in need of a good dado cutter to make 1/2" box joints in a drawer unit
I'm building. I currently have a carbide tipped wobble dado blade but its
setups are not accurately repeatable and the results look like the piece
has
been worked over by a dull toothed beaver. I've been looking at reviews
of
the Freud SD208 because it has carbide tips and it's less than half the
price of the Forrest Dado King.

I've seen comments, however, that the unit produces some chipping and/or
tearout, even in materials that would be considered easily machined. Is
this true? If so, how bad is the problem? Or are the complainers just
being too picky? I plan to use 1/2" Baltic birch ply for the drawer
boxes.

Obviously, I'd like my project to be as eye appealing as possible but for
the extra $150, I can live with some minor blemishes.

That's a good suggestion. I had seen descriptions of Lynn's jig but never
studied it in detail before.

It also gives me a starting point for micro-adjustment ideas for my
shop-built tenoning jig.

"D. J. Dorn" wrote in message
...
If you need the dado blade, it's a good choice but for your project, you
could build a Lynn's jig for about $6 and be able to do any size boxjoints
at any thickness you wanted with your standard 1/8 blade.

Don

"Chuck Hoffman" wrote in message
news
I'm in need of a good dado cutter to make 1/2" box joints in a drawer
unit
I'm building. I currently have a carbide tipped wobble dado blade but
its
setups are not accurately repeatable and the results look like the piece
has
been worked over by a dull toothed beaver. I've been looking at reviews
of
the Freud SD208 because it has carbide tips and it's less than half the
price of the Forrest Dado King.

I've seen comments, however, that the unit produces some chipping and/or
tearout, even in materials that would be considered easily machined. Is
this true? If so, how bad is the problem? Or are the complainers just
being too picky? I plan to use 1/2" Baltic birch ply for the drawer
boxes.

Obviously, I'd like my project to be as eye appealing as possible but
for
the extra $150, I can live with some minor blemishes.