I am setting up a sharpening station, and I enjoy getting advice about
different methods.

Could some people explain why they prefer either hollow grinding before
honing, or relying entirely on flat abrasives.

Thank you in advance.

Dwight

"Dwight" wrote in message
k.net...
I am setting up a sharpening station, and I enjoy getting advice about
different methods.

Could some people explain why they prefer either hollow grinding before
honing, or relying entirely on flat abrasives.

Thank you in advance.

Dwight

I've heard hollow grinding on lathe tools allows the chip relief you need
for proper cutting, and also allows you to quickly tune up an edge, since
it's like putting a micro bevel on a plane -- you have a lot less metal to
remove at the cutting edge to make it sharp. I hollow grind my skews, but
don't really notice much difference in operation between a perfectly flat
edge and a hollow ground edge. Get a little belly on it tho, and
watchout... you'll mess some stuff up that way. Not sure why, since I'm not
an expert turner by any means.

On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 21:43:06 GMT, Dwight
wrote:


Could some people explain why they prefer either hollow grinding before
honing, or relying entirely on flat abrasives.


Hollow grinding allows you to hone the tip and heel only, reaching an
edge much faster than removing metal from the entire bevel.

Barry

Hollow grinding tends to create less friction when cutting.

"Dwight" wrote in message
k.net...
I am setting up a sharpening station, and I enjoy getting advice about
different methods.

Could some people explain why they prefer either hollow grinding before
honing, or relying entirely on flat abrasives.

Thank you in advance.

Dwight

"Dwight" wrote in message
k.net...
I am setting up a sharpening station, and I enjoy getting advice about
different methods.

Could some people explain why they prefer either hollow grinding before
honing, or relying entirely on flat abrasives.

Thank you in advance.

Dwight

Try both and decide for yourself. I never hollow grind. Waste of metal.

Dwight wrote:

Could some people explain why they prefer either hollow grinding before
honing, or relying entirely on flat abrasives.

I don't have a problem with hollow grinding per se, but I hate my bench
grinder for so many, many reasons. It's just not a good way to sharpen
anything, even with fancy high dollar wheels on it.

Flat grinding is slow and tedious, but it delivers excellent results. I
think if I were going to step up to a powered system, I'd go with something
like the Veritas power sharpener deal and keep flat grinding. Wheels just
seem like such a PITA overall, even if I had a slow grinder and a good tool
rest.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/

On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 23:49:56 -0500, Silvan
wrote:

Dwight wrote:

Could some people explain why they prefer either hollow grinding before
honing, or relying entirely on flat abrasives.

I don't have a problem with hollow grinding per se, but I hate my bench
grinder for so many, many reasons. It's just not a good way to sharpen
anything, even with fancy high dollar wheels on it.

Flat grinding is slow and tedious, but it delivers excellent results. I
think if I were going to step up to a powered system, I'd go with something
like the Veritas power sharpener deal and keep flat grinding. Wheels just
seem like such a PITA overall, even if I had a slow grinder and a good tool
rest.

I think they both have their place. For shaping and reshaping the
initial bevel, a wheel seems best. A large grit and slow speed wheel
can make quick work of an otherwise (somewhat) time consuming task.

After the inital hollow grind though, I gotta figure that an efficient
workstation with a good set of well-maintained stones is the best and
quickest way to go.

I envision a full set of Shapton Stones all in a row, covered by a
tilt- up glass dust exclosure, just waiting for a spritz of water and
a skilled hand to put the appropriate edge to the appropriate tool....

Someday.

JP
**************
In search of a rabbi.

"Dwight" wrote in message
k.net...
:I am setting up a sharpening station, and I enjoy getting advice about
: different methods.
:
: Could some people explain why they prefer either hollow grinding before
: honing, or relying entirely on flat abrasives.

Try my web site - Sharpening Notes - Hollow Grinding, Good or Bad.
:
: Thank you in advance.

You're welcome (in advance).

Jeff G

--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
Email: username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net

On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 20:33:55 -0600, "bw" wrote:


Try both and decide for yourself. I never hollow grind. Waste of metal.

Were you hollow grinding every time? If so, that is a waste of metal.

Unless I drop it, I can normally sharpen a chisel 15-20 times before I
have to regrind.

Barry

"Silvan" wrote in message
...
Dwight wrote:

Could some people explain why they prefer either hollow grinding before
honing, or relying entirely on flat abrasives.

I don't have a problem with hollow grinding per se, but I hate my bench
grinder for so many, many reasons. It's just not a good way to sharpen
anything, even with fancy high dollar wheels on it.

I agree with you there. I do my hollow grinding with a stationary belt
sander with a 6" wheel.

On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 00:49:00 GMT, Ba r r y
calmly ranted:

On Thu, 30 Dec 2004 21:43:06 GMT, Dwight
wrote:

Could some people explain why they prefer either hollow grinding before
honing, or relying entirely on flat abrasives.

Hollow grinding allows you to hone the tip and heel only, reaching an
edge much faster than removing metal from the entire bevel.

The downside is that you go through irons more quickly that way.

--
Save the Endangered ROAD NARROWS! -|- www.diversify.com
Ban SUVs today! -|- Full Service Websites

"mark" wrote in message
...

I've heard hollow grinding on lathe tools allows the chip relief you need
for proper cutting, and also allows you to quickly tune up an edge, since
it's like putting a micro bevel on a plane -- you have a lot less metal to
remove at the cutting edge to make it sharp. I hollow grind my skews, but
don't really notice much difference in operation between a perfectly flat
edge and a hollow ground edge. Get a little belly on it tho, and
watchout... you'll mess some stuff up that way. Not sure why, since I'm
not
an expert turner by any means.


Especially with the lathe, given that the work is round, there is no such
thing as "chip relief" to worry about.

Skews with "bellies" are called gouges. Some are called "skewchigouges."

On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 08:48:07 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:


The downside is that you go through irons more quickly that way.

How?

The edge is only hollow ground when it's damaged, such as after being
dropped, or about every 15 or so honings.

My experience is that I'm not hollow grinding any more often than I
would have hit the 220 grit stone, so it's not a big deal. An
acquaintance of mine who uses his chisels to make a living has had the
same ones since 1982. G

You guys who say that are really splitting hairs.

Barry

Especially with the lathe, given that the work is round, there is no such
thing as "chip relief" to worry about.

Skews with "bellies" are called gouges. Some are called "skewchigouges."


No, I meant on a skew, where your normal edge looks like \/ and instead, you
sharpen it to have a slight roundedness because you did it by hand, and
couldn't keep it totally flat, or you did it on a slack belt or a buffing
wheel.. It seems like if it's that way, it either skates or digs in when you
don't want it to.