Good evening, all! Just curious about what I got. I went to a house
where the son was selling some tools owned by his father who recently
passed. Picked up a vise that attaches to the side of a bench/table,
says Zyliss Swiss precision on it, paid $10.

Also got a couple planes. I've never owned any as I'm just getting
started in woodworking, but figured these would be a cheap way to learn
about planes. One says Sargent VBM No. 408C, New Haven CT, and has 8
flutes in the base. Looks to be in pretty good shape, without any rust
on it. Obviously has been used but I don't know how to appraise how
much use it's had.

The other plane I picked up was a Stanley Bailey No. 5 with flutes in
the bottom, also. Again, used but no rust and looks to be in OK shape.
I paid $20 total for the two planes. Any information about them would
be appreciated, including where I could find more about their value and
if they would be considered collectible or just good to learn with.

From the Google searches I've done, appears the Stanley is not rare,
not sure about the Sargent, though. Thanks in advance for any
information you can provide!

Dave in Indy

On 26 Dec 2004 22:01:55 -0800, "Dave in Indy"
wrote:

Good evening, all! Just curious about what I got. I went to a house
where the son was selling some tools owned by his father who recently
passed.

Excuse me.. Arrgghhh, the putz!


Picked up a vise that attaches to the side of a bench/table,
says Zyliss Swiss precision on it, paid $10.

A good buy, they're handy vises



Also got a couple planes. I've never owned any as I'm just getting
started in woodworking, but figured these would be a cheap way to learn
about planes.

Good thinking!

One says Sargent VBM No. 408C, New Haven CT, and has 8
flutes in the base. Looks to be in pretty good shape, without any rust
on it. Obviously has been used but I don't know how to appraise how
much use it's had.

Post pics on abpf to get the full effect of the gloat.


The other plane I picked up was a Stanley Bailey No. 5 with flutes in
the bottom, also. Again, used but no rust and looks to be in OK shape.

Most likely a pre 1970 plane, a good user.

I paid $20 total for the two planes.

Yep, they always have to rub it in.


Any information about them would
be appreciated, including where I could find more about their value and
if they would be considered collectible or just good to learn with.

eB*y can give some idea, Google searches may help too. Clearly
identify the tool first though. (People tend to get upset when they
find out why the guy ran away smirking with dad's old saw - the one
they paid ten bucks for - you know, the one that had the Panther's
head on it).

From the Google searches I've done, appears the Stanley is not rare,
not sure about the Sargent, though. Thanks in advance for any
information you can provide!

Neither are rare, but research for yourself, go to

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0.htm

Greg

"Dave in Indy" writes:
Picked up a vise that attaches to the side of a bench/table,
says Zyliss Swiss precision on it, paid $10.

That's about what it is worth.

Others can comment on the rest of your booty.

Lew

Dave in Indy wrote:

about planes. One says Sargent VBM No. 408C, New Haven CT, and has 8
The other plane I picked up was a Stanley Bailey No. 5 with flutes in
the bottom, also. Again, used but no rust and looks to be in OK shape.

Those "flutes" mean they are "corrugated." Some people like that, but I
think most think it was a dumb idea. Depending on the mood of the buyer, a
-C is either something worth paying a premium for, or it's a reason to bid
low and walk away if you didn't get it cheap.

I paid $20 total for the two planes.

Youuuuuu sssssssssssSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSUCK!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!

Any information about them would
be appreciated, including where I could find more about their value and
if they would be considered collectible or just good to learn with.

I just found (or was shown; I forgot) a handy little flowchart for Stanley
planes. You can count how many blimzles and tweelzes it has, and whether
it's got any floozles, and figure out what type it is.

http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/sta...flowchart.html

I can't find diddly about Sargent planes. I just went looking, and I didn't
turn up anything worth passing along. They're pretty rare, but I don't
think that makes the collectible. Everybody is all hot and bothered over
old Stanley stuff. Could be because the old Stanley stuff out-sold
everything else 100:1, or outlasted everything else 100:1, or it could be
people are just hung up on Stanley.

I dunno, I'm not a collector. I just use'em, and I take whatever I can get.
I have some old Stanleys, some bona fide Mystery Planes about which I have
no information at all, and one Sargent. The Sargent seems like a perfectly
good plane, though I haven't gotten it in service far enough to do much of
anything with it yet. (It should work much better now that I finally got
around to replacing the grossly pitted iron with a new one from LV, but I'm
not done polishing the new iron yet.)

If you can't find any helpful hints, I'm sure someone will feed you all the
usual URLs. I don't have them close at hand. It sounds like those planes
are clean, and in good shape, so you might just have to hone the irons and
make some shavings.

If you don't have a good sharpening setup, that's the first place to start.
These things don't work worth a much with a dull iron. You want to get
them sharp enough to shave hairs off a gnat's ass. Sharpening methods
abound. I'm in the Scary Sharp(tm) camp.

If you don't have one already, you'll probably want to think about a good
workbench too. Bench planes are hard to use without a workbench. That
vise you got might be good. I have no idea. If you want a good hunk of
iron for not much money, I recommend eBaying around for anything from the
Morgan Vise Co., or any similar early 20th century iron stuff. I have a
Morgan 10A, I think it is, that I got for free. It was a royal bitch to
get it working again, but it was worth it. It's soooo much better than
those new ones they're selling for $100. I just looked on eBay, and I
don't see anything currently. Oh well, the one you have will probably do
for now anyway. I made do with some little $12 cheapie from Lowe's for a
long time, and I still use that in conjunction with my new old one to hold
long boards.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
link.net...

"Dave in Indy" writes:
Picked up a vise that attaches to the side of a bench/table,
says Zyliss Swiss precision on it, paid $10.

That's about what it is worth.

Others can comment on the rest of your booty.

Lew

Jeez, a guy can't even post a gloat without someone checking out his booty.

B.

In article .net, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:

"Dave in Indy" writes:
Picked up a vise that attaches to the side of a bench/table,
says Zyliss Swiss precision on it, paid $10.

That's about what it is worth.

Guess again. They typically go for over $50 on eBay, $75 to $100 with a full
set of accessories.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.

A Zyliss vise ... hmmmm .. you have quite the find there.
Two things you can do with it.

1. sell it. You should be able to get a significant ROI on it. 200% should
be easy.

2. Learn how to use it. If it didn't come complete with instructions, you
can find it on the booklet in alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking - I just put
it there for you - I found it on the web. It is an incredible vice.

I've seen them demonstrated at shows - they want $240 for them!
Two years later I found one at a marina dock sale (like a community yard
sale) for $25.

Its strong, light weight, and doesn't rust - it is great to have on the boat
in the summer, and the shop in the winter.

Check the booklet out, you will see that it can be used for virtually any
clamping requirement - and exceptional for use when planning. No wonder you
found a plane at the same time. I'm betting you keep the vise and use it a
lot.

Matt






"Dave in Indy" wrote in message
ups.com...
Good evening, all! Just curious about what I got. I went to a house
where the son was selling some tools owned by his father who recently
passed. Picked up a vise that attaches to the side of a bench/table,
says Zyliss Swiss precision on it, paid $10.

Also got a couple planes. I've never owned any as I'm just getting
started in woodworking, but figured these would be a cheap way to learn
about planes. One says Sargent VBM No. 408C, New Haven CT, and has 8
flutes in the base. Looks to be in pretty good shape, without any rust
on it. Obviously has been used but I don't know how to appraise how
much use it's had.

The other plane I picked up was a Stanley Bailey No. 5 with flutes in
the bottom, also. Again, used but no rust and looks to be in OK shape.
I paid $20 total for the two planes. Any information about them would
be appreciated, including where I could find more about their value and
if they would be considered collectible or just good to learn with.

From the Google searches I've done, appears the Stanley is not rare,
not sure about the Sargent, though. Thanks in advance for any
information you can provide!

Dave in Indy

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 09:23:05 -0500, "Matt"
wrote:

A Zyliss vise ...

It is an incredible vice.

I'm betting you keep the vise

You know...aw, never mind.

- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

If you don't have a good sharpening setup, that's the first place to start.
These things don't work worth a much with a dull iron. You want to get
them sharp enough to shave hairs off a gnat's ass. Sharpening methods
abound. I'm in the Scary Sharp(tm) camp

Why do people always put a (tm) after Scary Sharp? Is it the name of
something special? AFAIK, it's just using sandpaper glued to something flat,
right? I've been using wetdry sandpaper to sharpen chisels and plane
blades for about 15 years, since my buddy worked for Norton Co and got
paper cheap....is there more to it?

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 06:47:13 -0500, "Buddy Matlosz"
wrote:


"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
hlink.net...

"Dave in Indy" writes:
Picked up a vise that attaches to the side of a bench/table,
says Zyliss Swiss precision on it, paid $10.

That's about what it is worth.

Others can comment on the rest of your booty.

Lew

Jeez, a guy can't even post a gloat without someone checking out his booty.

B.

thanks... I was thinking of using coffee to clean my keyboard and
monitor, anyway..



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 15:41:45 GMT, "mark" wrote:

Why do people always put a (tm) after Scary Sharp? Is it the name of
something special?

I believe the original article giving it that name was posted on the
Wreck by an old-time wrecker with a wicked sense of humor. Although
the technique has been around for a long time and he probably didn't
invent it, I believe he coined the name Scary Sharp(TM) and satiricly
appended the (TM) to so indicate.

AFAIK, it's just using sandpaper glued to something flat,
right?

Uh, we try not to cut to the chase too much around here, okay.
Otherwise people will think we're just hobbyists spending lots of
money and time on tools when we could be solving the issues of world
peace somewhere.



- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 16:31:49 +0000, LRod
wrote:

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 15:41:45 GMT, "mark" wrote:

Why do people always put a (tm) after Scary Sharp? Is it the name of
something special?

I believe the original article giving it that name was posted on the
Wreck by an old-time wrecker with a wicked sense of humor.

IIRC it was keeter.



Although
the technique has been around for a long time and he probably didn't
invent it, I believe he coined the name Scary Sharp(TM) and satiricly
appended the (TM) to so indicate.

AFAIK, it's just using sandpaper glued to something flat,
right?

you really don't need to glue it. surface tension of the water used as
a lubricant holds it on well enough....




Uh, we try not to cut to the chase too much around here, okay.
Otherwise people will think we're just hobbyists spending lots of
money and time on tools when we could be solving the issues of world
peace somewhere.



- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 10:22:38 -0700, bridger wrote:

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 16:31:49 +0000, LRod
wrote:

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 15:41:45 GMT, "mark" wrote:

Why do people always put a (tm) after Scary Sharp? Is it the name of
something special?

I believe the original article giving it that name was posted on the
Wreck by an old-time wrecker with a wicked sense of humor.

IIRC it was keeter.

Zee Keeterless originalee:

http://www.shavings.net/SCARY.HTM#original
--
Joe Wells

scary sharp
you really don't need to glue it. surface tension of the water used as
a lubricant holds it on well enough....

I'll try that. I usually use a spritz of the 3m layout positioning adhesive.
It sticks, but allows you to peel it off easily with no residue.

2. Learn how to use it. If it didn't come complete with
instructions, you
can find it on the booklet in alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking - I
just put
it there for you - I found it on the web. It is an incredible vice.

Thanks, Matt. I saved the instruction book. I was planning for now on
keeping the vise, so they will come in handy.

If you don't have one already, you'll probably want to think about a
good
workbench too. Bench planes are hard to use without a workbench.
That
vise you got might be good. I have no idea. If you want a good hunk
of
iron for not much money, I recommend eBaying around for anything from
the
Morgan Vise Co., or any similar early 20th century iron stuff. I
have a
Morgan 10A, I think it is, that I got for free. It was a royal bitch
to
get it working again, but it was worth it. It's soooo much better
than
those new ones they're selling for $100. I just looked on eBay, and
I
don't see anything currently. Oh well, the one you have will
probably do
for now anyway. I made do with some little $12 cheapie from Lowe's
for a
long time, and I still use that in conjunction with my new old one to
hold
long boards.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/

Thanks for all the information! I was actually looking at a couple
workbenches the same guy was selling. One was a homemade wooden bench,
the other was a steel bench with hardboard top that was in bad shape,
but replaceable. I'd like to buy something to start out with, and then
make one later on. I know I need a bench, but haven't been too
impressed with some of the Sjoberg benches I've seen, esp. for the
money. Was considering a Grizzly bench top and maybe Shopfox leg set.
What about the Kobalt type benches at Lowes with MDF top? All thoughts
appreciated. Thanks!

"Doug Miller" writes:
Guess again. They typically go for over $50 on eBay, $75 to $100 with a
full
set of accessories.

What's the old saying about a fool and his money?

If you paid me $10 to take one of those toys, I'd probably pass unless I had
one of those e-bay type buyers lined up.

YMMV

Lew

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 11:39:12 -0600, Joe Wells
wrote:

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 10:22:38 -0700, bridger wrote:

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 16:31:49 +0000, LRod
wrote:

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 15:41:45 GMT, "mark" wrote:

Why do people always put a (tm) after Scary Sharp? Is it the name of
something special?

I believe the original article giving it that name was posted on the
Wreck by an old-time wrecker with a wicked sense of humor.

IIRC it was keeter.

I was under the impression it was O'Deen. Probably because there's a
section in it by him. But I didn't see it in the original, so I don't
know.

Zee Keeterless originalee:

http://www.shavings.net/SCARY.HTM#original

It's also on my site.

- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

regarding Zyliss:


On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 18:52:08 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"Doug Miller" writes:
Guess again. They typically go for over $50 on eBay, $75 to $100 with a
full
set of accessories.

What's the old saying about a fool and his money?

If you paid me $10 to take one of those toys, I'd probably pass unless I had
one of those e-bay type buyers lined up.

YMMV

Lew



having worked with one for a while I'll chime in.

the people who have them and like them really like them.

I think a lot of them live under the bench most of the time gathering
dust.

for what they are- a versatile lightweight workholding device- they
work well, but IMO are overpriced. if you're looking for a heavy
machine vise, for get it.

for the price of a new one I'd rather have an emmert clone.

Dave in Indy wrote:
....
Thanks for all the information! I was actually looking at a couple
workbenches the same guy was selling. One was a homemade wooden bench,
the other was a steel bench with hardboard top that was in bad shape,
but replaceable. I'd like to buy something to start out with, and then
make one later on. I know I need a bench, but haven't been too
impressed with some of the Sjoberg benches I've seen, esp. for the
money. Was considering a Grizzly bench top and maybe Shopfox leg set.
What about the Kobalt type benches at Lowes with MDF top? All thoughts
appreciated. Thanks!

Why not just make something serviceable but inexpensive initially and
then make a better one one of your first "real" projects? Or, like me,
20 years later, the "temporary" is still working just fine...of course,
I had some 8/4 x 16' clear (nearly) yellow pine I planed down for the
top and built a table for it and mounted the vise my f-i-l gave me and
it's now as comfortable as an old shoe...

In article , s wrote:
regarding Zyliss:

having worked with one for a while I'll chime in.

the people who have them and like them really like them.

Ayup.

I think a lot of them live under the bench most of the time gathering
dust.

Ayup. Hauled mine out earlier this afternoon, though. I don't need to use it
often, but when I do it's darn handy to have.

for what they are- a versatile lightweight workholding device- they
work well, but IMO are overpriced.

That's why I bought mine used on eBay instead of new at the Woodworking Show.

if you're looking for a heavy
machine vise, for get it.

Ayup.

for the price of a new one I'd rather have an emmert clone.

Yeah, well, for the price of a used one I'm pretty happy with the Z-vise. :-)

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 16:31:49 +0000, LRod
wrote:

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 15:41:45 GMT, "mark" wrote:

Why do people always put a (tm) after Scary Sharp? Is it the name of
something special?
.... snip

Uh, we try not to cut to the chase too much around here, okay.



Otherwise people will think we're just hobbyists spending lots of
money and time on tools when we could be solving the issues of world
peace somewhere.


Nah, we've tried that here, too. Gets the OT police too up in arms
(which, is kind of anti-thetical to world peace in its own way).





+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

Now we'll just use some glue to hold things in place until the brads dry

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

mark wrote:

Why do people always put a (tm) after Scary Sharp? Is it the name of
something special? AFAIK, it's just using sandpaper glued to something

Wreck history, I guess, and a good measure of humor too, I imagine.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/

Dave in Indy wrote:

impressed with some of the Sjoberg benches I've seen, esp. for the
money. Was considering a Grizzly bench top and maybe Shopfox leg set.
What about the Kobalt type benches at Lowes with MDF top? All thoughts
appreciated. Thanks!

Lowe's sells Kobalt benches? Must be in bigger stores or something.

You can get by with not much. I don't recommend this by any stretch, but my
workbench is just some crappy construction grade lumber jobsite kit I
picked up when I got my house, and my first dedicated shop space, and I
wanted to have a workbench in it, even though I had no real idea what I was
going to use it for.

There's a picture of what it used to look like on my stupid little website
somewhere. When I got into this hand plane tomfoolery a coupla years or so
ago, I gave it a makeover, rather than going to the trouble, expense, and
really downright inconvenience of building a real bench. I planed the top
pretty flat, then I bolted some pieces of a curbisde salvage walnut
veneered poplar table to it; making sure everything went down pretty darn
close to flat. Then I bored a full grid of 3/4" dog holes in it.

No tail vise, and one end of it is still a metalworking station with a
couple of anvils and a 4" pipe vise, so it's anything but ideal. It works
though. I'm limited to smallish projects as a practical matter in that
teensy shop anyway, and it's a suitable bench for suitably smallish
projects. Two face vises, one of which has a pop-up dog. Some dog holes,
some 3/4" oak dowels for dogs, and some other shop-cobbled work holding
gadgetry, and it gets the job done.

You can do MUCH better than this, but you can get by with something pretty
seriously crappy as long as it's flat and has a place to put your vise, and
a place to stick something to keep the wood from scooting out from under
your planes.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/

Steve LaMantia or last name close to that keep popping up on the
original writer/author.

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 18:53:33 +0000, LRod
wrote:

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 11:39:12 -0600, Joe Wells
wrote:

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 10:22:38 -0700, bridger wrote:

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 16:31:49 +0000, LRod
wrote:

On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 15:41:45 GMT, "mark" wrote:

Why do people always put a (tm) after Scary Sharp? Is it the name of
something special?

I believe the original article giving it that name was posted on the
Wreck by an old-time wrecker with a wicked sense of humor.

IIRC it was keeter.

I was under the impression it was O'Deen. Probably because there's a
section in it by him. But I didn't see it in the original, so I don't
know.

Zee Keeterless originalee:

http://www.shavings.net/SCARY.HTM#original

It's also on my site.

- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 08:45:26 -0500, "
wrote:

Steve LaMantia or last name close to that keep popping up on the
original writer/author.

I always assumed that was a nom de web, like "keeter," "Duke of URLs,"
"Unisaw A100."

- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

My understanding the name is valid and he used to haunt these halls.
IIRC Spokeshave and others of that ilk whose names escape me knew
Steve. Original script of his is HILARIOUS.

On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 17:12:06 +0000, LRod
wrote:

On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 08:45:26 -0500, "
wrote:

Steve LaMantia or last name close to that keep popping up on the
original writer/author.

I always assumed that was a nom de web, like "keeter," "Duke of URLs,"
"Unisaw A100."

- -
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

" wrote:
Steve LaMantia or last name close to that keep popping up on the
original writer/author.

OK, Here's the REPRINT of Steve's original. I guess we need to
reprint it, and a few other things, about once a year. How's
about the turd barge or the Klown Hammah.

Dave in Fairfax
================================================== ==
Stephen LaMantia
Nov 1 1995, 12:00 am

Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: (Stephen LaMantia)
Date: 1995/11/01
Subject: Sandpaper Sharpening

[No, you can't sharpen sandpaper. And please don't ask me how I
know that.]

[Required warnings:]

[If you don't like sharpening tales, or sandpaper, or
handplanes, or any deviation from simple declarative
sentences, please don't read this post. Also, it's a
process gloat, and it's windbaggy, so be forewarned.]

[And if you prefer one-clause synopses, he "I sharpened
a plane blade with sandpaper." Now move along now.]

For anyone else:

I recently emailed a few folks about some attempts I made at
sharpening a plane iron with sandpaper. Some suggested I post my
story to the group. So here it is.

(Rich and David, I've pretty much rehashed my email to you guys
here, so you can move on out now, too.)

Let's see. Who's left? Oh.

Dear Mom,

I've recently been experimenting with using sandpaper for honing.
I had been getting tired out with the oilstones getting unflat and
glazed and needing to be lapped all the time, tired of oil all
over
the place and on my hands so I couldn't even scratch, tired of
having to clean the stones after each use, tired of having to keep
a conscious effort going to distribute wear on the stones evenly.
So tired of all of this.

So I started thinking about abrasives and abrasive action in
general, and read up a bit, and asked around, and found out that
there's nothing different, in principle, between sandpaper and an
oilstone. Silicon carbide sandpaper (i.e., wet-or-dry) goes up to
600 grit in the hardware and woodworking stores, but up to 2000
grit in the automotive finishing stores, as I learned from David
Opincarne, a local rec.woodworker and admitted metalhead who works
right here at the school and who sent me some 1200-and 2000-grit
samples and who's recently been helping me greatly to understand
the secrets of metal. For example, did you know that to produce
high-carbon steel, crushed bone from the skull of an infidel is an
excellent carburizing agent? Me, neither. Or that hardening the
steel in cutting blades is achieved by the sudden and even cooling
of the blade, and that the best known way to achieve these dual
goals is to quench the blade in the still-living body of an enemy
warrior? Same here; I had no idea. David's been teaching me a
lot.

Me and him and some other wreck.the.woodwork folks had been
talking
lately about this abrasive business, and it got onto sandpaper
somehow, and so I decided to test something out. For the
sharpening-with-sandpaper experiment, I used a slightly-pitted 2"
wide jack plane blade that came with an old beat-up Stanley
Bedrock
#605 I bought last year at a tool swap. The bevel on the plane
iron had been somehow ground *concave* by the previous owner (or
else it just wore that way), so I first straightened the edge out
on the grinding wheel, grinding in straight at first so as not to
create a thin edge that would burn, and then grinding in a bevel
but stopping a bit short of a real edge, again to prevent burning.
Because of this care not to burn the steel, this grinding goes
slow
and light, but it's time well spent.

Time now to lap the back behind the cutting bevel. I took a page
out of the plane-sole lapping book -- figuratively speaking of
course, you should never tear pages out of a book -- and used very
light coatings of 3M "77" spray adhesive to temporarily glue small
1-1/2" x 3-1/2" rectangular pieces of sandpaper along the edge of
a
sheet of 1/4" plate-glass. The paper I used was Aluminum Oxide in
grits 50, 80, and 100, and Silicon Carbide (wet-or-dry to you
laypeople) in grits of 150, 180, 220, 320, 400, 600, 1200, and
2000. The plate glass was placed with its edge flush to the edge
of the workbench.

I lapped the end one inch of the back of the iron on each grit in
turn. I didn't use any water; I just went at it dry. So as I
lapped -- can you call it lapping if it's dry? -- anyway, about
every ten seconds or so I'd stop and brush off the sandpaper with
a
whisk broom and wipe the blade off on my shirt. (On the coarser
grits, I found that a dustbuster vacuum actually cleaned up the
paper quite thoroughly, much better than sweeping it off, but this
sucking advantage disappeared at around 220 grit.) Since I
progressed through the grits so gradually, I found I had to spend
only about a minute or so on each grit, including the suck-down
and
sweep-off and shirt-wipe time.

One trick to efficiency is knowing when you've lapped the back
sufficiently on each progressive grit. I had previously had
trouble gauging this, and didn't know how
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.Patinatools.org/

LRod wrote:
I always assumed that was a nom de web, like "keeter," "Duke of URLs,"
"Unisaw A100."

I just reposted the original. Take a look at the e-mail addy.
Sure looks like a real name to me.

Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.Patinatools.org/

On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 02:11:45 GMT, Dave in Fairfax
wrote:

" wrote:
Steve LaMantia or last name close to that keep popping up on the
original writer/author.

OK, Here's the REPRINT of Steve's original. I guess we need to
reprint it, and a few other things, about once a year. How's
about the turd barge or the Klown Hammah.

Dave in Fairfax




thanks. Steve it was.

and on the subject of scary sharp, I have a minor gloat.

road score the other day. glass. not tempered- it has a chip out of
one corner. about 2 foot by 2-1/2 foot. by about an inch thick.

think *that* will stay flat enough?

s wrote:
thanks. Steve it was.
and on the subject of scary sharp, I have a minor gloat.
road score the other day. glass. not tempered- it has a chip out of
one corner. about 2 foot by 2-1/2 foot. by about an inch thick.
think *that* will stay flat enough?

Just maybe, but the price was right. %-)

Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.Patinatools.org/