I'm planning a sturdy but inexpensive workbench.
 

"Ryan Brooke" wrote in message
...

Is a thick top made of construction 2x4 bolted and glued worth the effort
or
would I be better off with 2-3 inches of MDF with a replaceable plywood
top.

I'd go with the laminated MDF. I wouldn't even use a plywood top
personally.


What is the downside of using arborite desktops?
They are 1" thick MDF and the standard size of 30x60 (my bench size) are
cheap
as hell from second hand office supply stores. replacing them would be a
snap.

Nothing. Many people use them. Solid core doors are another option.


Brian.

I would use MDF but put a tempered masonite top on it. It is very durable,
cheap and replaceable.
max


"Ryan Brooke" wrote in message
...

Is a thick top made of construction 2x4 bolted and glued worth the effort
or
would I be better off with 2-3 inches of MDF with a replaceable plywood
top.

I'd go with the laminated MDF. I wouldn't even use a plywood top
personally.


What is the downside of using arborite desktops?
They are 1" thick MDF and the standard size of 30x60 (my bench size) are
cheap
as hell from second hand office supply stores. replacing them would be a
snap.

Nothing. Many people use them. Solid core doors are another option.


Brian.

I've just completed my workbench. Top is 2 sheets of 3/4" laminated MDF
sealed with 3 coats of clear satin Ronseal Varnish.

Malcolm Webb

"Ryan Brooke" wrote in message
...

Is a thick top made of construction 2x4 bolted and glued worth the effort
or
would I be better off with 2-3 inches of MDF with a replaceable plywood
top.

What is the downside of using arborite desktops?
They are 1" thick MDF and the standard size of 30x60 (my bench size) are
cheap
as hell from second hand office supply stores. replacing them would be a
snap.

I've been using a old door for the past two years.

This group has become rec.mdfworking. :-)

I use a lot of water based product.
I would need to seal the MDF.

Rub it down with Johnson's paste wax. That makes cleaning up messes a snap.

Brian.

I'm still using one I built around 1978.

It had a 2 X 4 frame with a top of two layers of 3/4 mdf. There was a
back 8 inches where there was only 1 layer of 3/ 4 mdf in order to have
a depression for small parts. I sealed it with polyurethane. It has
been spilt on, pounded on, and moved cross country in a moving van with
stuff stacked on it about 3-4 times.

Ugly but still going strong and I have never replaced the top. It has a
bottom shelf and a double back rail with slots for putting bladed tools
down into. Works for me.

RonT

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 00:27:01 GMT, "Lowell Holmes"
calmly ranted:


"Ryan Brooke" wrote in message
.. .

Is a thick top made of construction 2x4 bolted and glued worth the effort
or
would I be better off with 2-3 inches of MDF with a replaceable plywood
top.

What is the downside of using arborite desktops?
They are 1" thick MDF and the standard size of 30x60 (my bench size) are
cheap
as hell from second hand office supply stores. replacing them would be a
snap.

I've been using a old door for the past two years.

This group has become rec.mdfworking. :-)

And rec.norm, rec.minwhacked, rec.stain, rec.poly, etc. sigh


--
REBOOT AMERICA!
-----------------------
http://diversify.com Website Programming

On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 19:47:51 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 00:27:01 GMT, "Lowell Holmes"
calmly ranted:


"Ryan Brooke" wrote in message
. ..

Is a thick top made of construction 2x4 bolted and glued worth the effort
or
would I be better off with 2-3 inches of MDF with a replaceable plywood
top.

What is the downside of using arborite desktops?
They are 1" thick MDF and the standard size of 30x60 (my bench size) are
cheap
as hell from second hand office supply stores. replacing them would be a
snap.

I've been using a old door for the past two years.

This group has become rec.mdfworking. :-)

And rec.norm, rec.minwhacked, rec.stain, rec.poly, etc. sigh

I wish there was a rec.woodworking.constructiongrade.softwoods. :)

I can't afford much hardwood and have seen some beautiful stuff made with 'junk'
softwood lumber. But I also realise there are tricks to using the stuff that
don't apply to the pampered, dried, stored indoors hardwoods.

I would love to see more project pictures and talk about creating with SPF from
the back lot.:)

Gino wrote:

I wish there was a
rec.woodworking.constructiongrade.softwoods. :)

I can't afford much hardwood and have seen some beautiful
stuff made with 'junk' softwood lumber. But I also realise
there are tricks to using the stuff that don't apply to the
pampered, dried, stored indoors hardwoods.

I would love to see more project pictures and talk about
creating with SPF from the back lot.:)

Gino...

There have been a number of projects discussed here and shown in
ABPW. One of my favorites is Mark Johnson's 2x4 bench (posted
about mid-August, I think.)

Earlier today I posted some drawings on ABPW for a 2x4 and
plywood cabinet I'm building. You should be able to adapt many
projects to softwood lumber if you're willing to do the
additional work to plan and allow for shrinking and expansion.

There's at least one book out on building furniture with SPF; but
I can't remember author or title - perhaps someone who has it
will chime in to help out on this one.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 20:16:12 -0800, Gino calmly
ranted:

On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 19:47:51 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 00:27:01 GMT, "Lowell Holmes"
calmly ranted:


"Ryan Brooke" wrote in message
...

Is a thick top made of construction 2x4 bolted and glued worth the effort
or
would I be better off with 2-3 inches of MDF with a replaceable plywood
top.

What is the downside of using arborite desktops?
They are 1" thick MDF and the standard size of 30x60 (my bench size) are
cheap
as hell from second hand office supply stores. replacing them would be a
snap.

I've been using a old door for the past two years.

This group has become rec.mdfworking. :-)

And rec.norm, rec.minwhacked, rec.stain, rec.poly, etc. sigh

I wish there was a rec.woodworking.constructiongrade.softwoods. :)

I can't afford much hardwood and have seen some beautiful stuff made with 'junk'
softwood lumber. But I also realise there are tricks to using the stuff that
don't apply to the pampered, dried, stored indoors hardwoods.

I would love to see more project pictures and talk about creating with SPF from
the back lot.:)

That would be alt.construction.birdseyeSPF, Gino. Go for it! ;)

Also check back in Google Groups for Jim McNamara. He was an
SPF artiste.

-----
= The wealth of reality, cannot be seen from your locality. =
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 07:46:25 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 20:16:12 -0800, Gino calmly
ranted:

On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 19:47:51 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 00:27:01 GMT, "Lowell Holmes"
calmly ranted:


"Ryan Brooke" wrote in message
m...

Is a thick top made of construction 2x4 bolted and glued worth the effort
or
would I be better off with 2-3 inches of MDF with a replaceable plywood
top.

What is the downside of using arborite desktops?
They are 1" thick MDF and the standard size of 30x60 (my bench size) are
cheap
as hell from second hand office supply stores. replacing them would be a
snap.

I've been using a old door for the past two years.

This group has become rec.mdfworking. :-)

And rec.norm, rec.minwhacked, rec.stain, rec.poly, etc. sigh

I wish there was a rec.woodworking.constructiongrade.softwoods. :)

I can't afford much hardwood and have seen some beautiful stuff made with 'junk'
softwood lumber. But I also realise there are tricks to using the stuff that
don't apply to the pampered, dried, stored indoors hardwoods.

I would love to see more project pictures and talk about creating with SPF from
the back lot.:)

That would be alt.construction.birdseyeSPF, Gino. Go for it! ;)

I'm worried the only members would be me and JOAT.:)
Just kidding JOAT, I'm sure we would get a few of the 'best' trolls as well.

Also check back in Google Groups for Jim McNamara. He was an
SPF artiste.

Thanks, I'll do that. I've been collecting and storing the best of my SPF as I
built an addition and workshop. Now I need all the tips I can get on how to
create nice stuff that won't turn to junk in a year or two.:)
Even my book club is short on 'how to SPF' except for very rustic mostly outdoor
and college dorm creations.
Tips on building furniture on a weekend afternoon with a hammer and an axe I
don't need. I've been doing that for years.:)
Now I have a few good tools and a nice little shop to work in and no money left
for the good wood.

-----
= The wealth of reality, cannot be seen from your locality. =
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development

Marine Varnish, about 3 coats take forever to dry, but it's worth the wait

Ryan Brooke wrote:

On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 10:52:39 -0800, "Brian" wrote:


"Ryan Brooke" wrote in message
. ..

Is a thick top made of construction 2x4 bolted and glued worth the
effort
or
would I be better off with 2-3 inches of MDF with a replaceable plywood
top.

I'd go with the laminated MDF. I wouldn't even use a plywood top
personally.

I use a lot of water based product.
I would need to seal the MDF.


What is the downside of using arborite desktops?
They are 1" thick MDF and the standard size of 30x60 (my bench size) are
cheap
as hell from second hand office supply stores. replacing them would be a
snap.

Nothing. Many people use them. Solid core doors are another option.


Brian.

[snip]


I wish there was a rec.woodworking.constructiongrade.softwoods. :)

I can't afford much hardwood and have seen some beautiful stuff
made with 'junk' softwood lumber. But I also realise there are
tricks to using the stuff that don't apply to the pampered, dried,
stored indoors hardwoods.

I would love to see more project pictures and talk about creating
with SPF from the back lot.:)

That would be alt.construction.birdseyeSPF, Gino. Go for it! ;)

I'm worried the only members would be me and JOAT.:)
Just kidding JOAT, I'm sure we would get a few of the 'best' trolls
as well.

Why not try getting some rec.woodworking SPF done here? Start post
subjects lines with SPF the way we use OT so the reader can skip the post
if not interested?

Josie

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 14:32:47 -0500, "firstjois"
wrote:

[snip]


I wish there was a rec.woodworking.constructiongrade.softwoods. :)

I can't afford much hardwood and have seen some beautiful stuff
made with 'junk' softwood lumber. But I also realise there are
tricks to using the stuff that don't apply to the pampered, dried,
stored indoors hardwoods.

I would love to see more project pictures and talk about creating
with SPF from the back lot.:)

That would be alt.construction.birdseyeSPF, Gino. Go for it! ;)

I'm worried the only members would be me and JOAT.:)
Just kidding JOAT, I'm sure we would get a few of the 'best' trolls
as well.

Why not try getting some rec.woodworking SPF done here? Start post
subjects lines with SPF the way we use OT so the reader can skip the post
if not interested?

This is a good idea. I'll try it.:)

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 08:44:11 -0800, Gino calmly
ranted:

I can't afford much hardwood and have seen some beautiful stuff made with 'junk'
softwood lumber. But I also realise there are tricks to using the stuff that
don't apply to the pampered, dried, stored indoors hardwoods.

For the price of bad softwood, sanding sealer, stain, and a poly
topcoat (I gag just thinking about all that), you could have had
real hardwood and a Waterlox/paste wax finish and be done in half
the time with much prettier results. But it's your call.


I would love to see more project pictures and talk about creating with SPF from
the back lot.:)

That would be alt.construction.birdseyeSPF, Gino. Go for it! ;)

I'm worried the only members would be me and JOAT.:)
Just kidding JOAT, I'm sure we would get a few of the 'best' trolls as well.

You're probably right.


Also check back in Google Groups for Jim McNamara. He was an
SPF artiste.

Thanks, I'll do that. I've been collecting and storing the best of my SPF as I
built an addition and workshop. Now I need all the tips I can get on how to
create nice stuff that won't turn to junk in a year or two.:)
Even my book club is short on 'how to SPF' except for very rustic mostly outdoor
and college dorm creations.

It's too bad Google didn't save the ABPF group or you could have seen
a lot of Jummy's stuff.


Tips on building furniture on a weekend afternoon with a hammer and an axe I
don't need. I've been doing that for years.:)
Now I have a few good tools and a nice little shop to work in and no money left
for the good wood.

You might be surprised. Look for garage sales. Wood goes for a SONG
there, sometimes free with a small tool or something. And even if
hardwood is a couple bucks more bd/ft, that usually doesn't put it
much over $20 more for any given project. The difference is that it
looks and feels better with a finish on it, it lasts a Helluva lot
longer, and it's actually easier to work with, especially with hand
tools despite its toughness.

-----
= The wealth of reality, cannot be seen from your locality. =
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 13:12:20 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 08:44:11 -0800, Gino calmly
ranted:

I can't afford much hardwood and have seen some beautiful stuff made with 'junk'
softwood lumber. But I also realise there are tricks to using the stuff that
don't apply to the pampered, dried, stored indoors hardwoods.

For the price of bad softwood, sanding sealer, stain, and a poly
topcoat (I gag just thinking about all that), you could have had
real hardwood and a Waterlox/paste wax finish and be done in half
the time with much prettier results. But it's your call.

But I'm not interested in hardwoods. My interest lies in using my locally grown
and cut softwoods.
I'm interested in seeing what can be accomplished with SPF.

You could tell a water color painter they would get better more durable results
with oils but I doubt you would convince them to switch for those reasons.:)

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 13:44:27 -0800, Gino calmly
ranted:

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 13:12:20 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 08:44:11 -0800, Gino calmly
ranted:

I can't afford much hardwood and have seen some beautiful stuff made with 'junk'
softwood lumber. But I also realise there are tricks to using the stuff that
don't apply to the pampered, dried, stored indoors hardwoods.

For the price of bad softwood, sanding sealer, stain, and a poly
topcoat (I gag just thinking about all that), you could have had
real hardwood and a Waterlox/paste wax finish and be done in half
the time with much prettier results. But it's your call.

But I'm not interested in hardwoods. My interest lies in using my locally grown
and cut softwoods.
I'm interested in seeing what can be accomplished with SPF.

Ah, the "Silk Purse Syndrome" rears its ugly head. Condolences. ;)


You could tell a water color painter they would get better more durable results
with oils but I doubt you would convince them to switch for those reasons.:)

In that case, you'll absolutely grok my sig line.


----------------------------------------------------------
* Michelangelo would have made ** Website Programming
* better time with a roller. ** http://diversify.com
----------------------------------------------------------

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 15:16:19 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 13:44:27 -0800, Gino calmly
ranted:

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 13:12:20 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 08:44:11 -0800, Gino calmly
ranted:

I can't afford much hardwood and have seen some beautiful stuff made with 'junk'
softwood lumber. But I also realise there are tricks to using the stuff that
don't apply to the pampered, dried, stored indoors hardwoods.

For the price of bad softwood, sanding sealer, stain, and a poly
topcoat (I gag just thinking about all that), you could have had
real hardwood and a Waterlox/paste wax finish and be done in half
the time with much prettier results. But it's your call.

But I'm not interested in hardwoods. My interest lies in using my locally grown
and cut softwoods.
I'm interested in seeing what can be accomplished with SPF.

Ah, the "Silk Purse Syndrome" rears its ugly head. Condolences. ;)

Thanks.:)

You could tell a water color painter they would get better more durable results
with oils but I doubt you would convince them to switch for those reasons.:)

In that case, you'll absolutely grok my sig line.

I do. I once saw a folk art pig painted on a chunk of rough spruce in a museum.
Conservative estimate of it's value, $30,000.:)


----------------------------------------------------------
* Michelangelo would have made ** Website Programming
* better time with a roller. ** http://diversify.com
----------------------------------------------------------

On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 15:44:51 -0800, Gino calmly
ranted:

Ah, the "Silk Purse Syndrome" rears its ugly head. Condolences. ;)

Thanks.:)


You could tell a water color painter they would get better more durable results
with oils but I doubt you would convince them to switch for those reasons.:)

In that case, you'll absolutely grok my sig line.

I do. I once saw a folk art pig painted on a chunk of rough spruce in a museum.
Conservative estimate of it's value, $30,000.:)

There's a good old router table on Ebay going for $3,500 right now,
with a $5k Buy-It-Now button. No sale so far, but...


----------------------------------------------------------
* Michelangelo would have made ** Website Programming
* better time with a roller. ** http://diversify.com
----------------------------------------------------------

Gino wrote:

I wish there was a rec.woodworking.constructiongrade.softwoods. :)

I can't afford much hardwood and have seen some beautiful stuff made
with 'junk'
softwood lumber. But I also realise there are tricks to using the
stuff that
don't apply to the pampered, dried, stored indoors hardwoods.

I would love to see more project pictures and talk about creating
with SPF from
the back lot.:)

Well, it's not exactly SPF, but I built my workbench mostly out of
SYP 2x4's and 2x12's. And to tie into the original poster's question,
why not just make the extra effort and have a stable bench that will
last? I built mine with the idea that I'd build a "dream bench" later,
but now that I've used it for a few years, I expect I'll keep it
indefinitely: http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/bench03.jpg
Chuck Vance

"Conan The Librarian" wrote:


Well, it's not exactly SPF, but I built my workbench mostly out of
SYP 2x4's and 2x12's. And to tie into the original poster's question,
why not just make the extra effort and have a stable bench that will
last? I built mine with the idea that I'd build a "dream bench" later,
but now that I've used it for a few years, I expect I'll keep it
indefinitely: http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/bench03.jpg

Nice looking bench! I like the leg vise. Is that what you would use on
another bench? Where did you find SYP in 2x4? All I can find here
(Atlanta) is 2x8 or larger.

I built a sharpening table of 2x4 SPF laminated like your bench, which
is fine for its purpose, but not as hard as I would like for a bench.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

alexy wrote:

Nice looking bench! I like the leg vise. Is that what you would use on
another bench? Where did you find SYP in 2x4? All I can find here
(Atlanta) is 2x8 or larger.

I built a sharpening table of 2x4 SPF laminated like your bench, which
is fine for its purpose, but not as hard as I would like for a bench.

SYP is relatively hard, and has served nicely as a top (even if it
does make Lar dizzy). It can be difficult to find decent 2x4 stock here
(I'm in Texas), but if you pick through the piles, you can sometimes
find enough resonably straight material to use. The top was made by
ripping 3" strips off of 2x12 stock. The way most of those boards are
cut, there is a good strip of tight-grained wood on either edge of a
2x12. I ripped two from each board and then face-glued them to laminate
the top.

The leg vise has worked out just great. It handles wood of all
different sizes and shapes. The only modification I can see making
would be to make me a "board slave" (free-standing board support) for
jointing long boards by hand.

And if I ever decide to make my "ultimate" bench, I'll probably turn
this one into a sharpening station or carving bench.


Chuck Vance