"Primed Pine" Molding
 

I am looking at some crown molding, and at HD they have "Primed Pine" for
about 2/3 of the unfinished pine. From the back it looks like pieces
finger-jointed together, and then milled and primed.

Is this stuff ok to use? Will is hold up, not warp, etc? I imagine that
regular pine would be easier to cope joints, but the price difference is
hard to ignore.

Glue's as good as the lignin, really. The reason the unfinished's more
expensive is that it uses high-grade wood for those who want to go bare.

"Buck Turgidson" wrote in message
news:opsihjx8sxjbbkc6@nw4host...
I am looking at some crown molding, and at HD they have "Primed Pine" for
about 2/3 of the unfinished pine. From the back it looks like pieces
finger-jointed together, and then milled and primed.

Is this stuff ok to use? Will is hold up, not warp, etc? I imagine that
regular pine would be easier to cope joints, but the price difference is
hard to ignore.

George wrote:
Glue's as good as the lignin, really.

Yep, and if you're gonna paint it anyways, the primer's already there,
so it saves you a step. More time you can use to get on to the next big
project!

-AD

Hi Buck,

You may or may not want to consider the MDF crown. I tried it on
several projects and liked it a lot - easy to cope too. The price
cannot be beat (got mine at HD also).

The final paint is really smooth also.

Just a thought for ya.

Lou

In article opsihjx8sxjbbkc6@nw4host, Buck Turgidson
wrote:

I am looking at some crown molding, and at HD they have "Primed Pine" for
about 2/3 of the unfinished pine. From the back it looks like pieces
finger-jointed together, and then milled and primed.

Is this stuff ok to use? Will is hold up, not warp, etc? I imagine that
regular pine would be easier to cope joints, but the price difference is
hard to ignore.

You may or may not want to consider the MDF crown. I tried it on
several projects and liked it a lot - easy to cope too. The price
cannot be beat (got mine at HD also).

The final paint is really smooth also.


I'll have a look. I looked at MDF baseboards, and decided they'd be hard
to patch if they got nicked. But can't imagine nicking crown molding unless
I have a wild party or something....

On Sat, 4 Dec 2004 08:51:50 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

Glue's as good as the lignin, really. The reason the unfinished's more
expensive is that it uses high-grade wood for those who want to go bare.

Some is. I purchased some oak veneer ply for an heirloom toybox I was
building. All OK until I decided to scroll out 4" diam air holes.
The veneer split off in chunks; no, or very little glue. However, no
bad experiences with finger jointed wood. Take a piece and see if you
can snap it across the joint. That will indicate the strength. Fine
if covered with paint.

"Buck Turgidson" wrote in message
news:opsihjx8sxjbbkc6@nw4host...
I am looking at some crown molding, and at HD they have "Primed Pine" for
about 2/3 of the unfinished pine. From the back it looks like pieces
finger-jointed together, and then milled and primed.

Is this stuff ok to use? Will is hold up, not warp, etc? I imagine that
regular pine would be easier to cope joints, but the price difference is
hard to ignore.

You might also notice that molding that is not primed may also be comprised
of all those spliced pieces of wood. That is known as Paint Grade molding.
Molding with out those joints is known as Stain Grade.
IMHO these Paint Grade Moldings are straighter and have fewer flaws.

"Buck Turgidson" wrote in message
news:2Qjsd.240$Sp3.95@lakeread01...
You may or may not want to consider the MDF crown. I tried it on
several projects and liked it a lot - easy to cope too. The price
cannot be beat (got mine at HD also).

The final paint is really smooth also.


I'll have a look. I looked at MDF baseboards, and decided they'd be hard
to patch if they got nicked. But can't imagine nicking crown molding
unless
I have a wild party or something....

MDF makes great molding material but I would also advise against using it at
the floor level. If you have a spill and do not get it up quickly enough
the molding will swell.

Peeled ply is an entirely different matter than finger-jointed moldings. I
think the thinner ply and the peeling of a ring-porous wood like oak is what
did you in.

If you're scrolling splintery ply, get those bi-directional blades for a
better shot at it.

"Guess who" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 4 Dec 2004 08:51:50 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:

Glue's as good as the lignin, really. The reason the unfinished's more
expensive is that it uses high-grade wood for those who want to go bare.

Some is. I purchased some oak veneer ply for an heirloom toybox I was
building. All OK until I decided to scroll out 4" diam air holes.
The veneer split off in chunks; no, or very little glue. However, no
bad experiences with finger jointed wood. Take a piece and see if you
can snap it across the joint. That will indicate the strength. Fine
if covered with paint.

On Sat, 04 Dec 2004 08:33:34 -0500, "Buck Turgidson"
wrote:

I am looking at some crown molding, and at HD they have "Primed Pine" for
about 2/3 of the unfinished pine. From the back it looks like pieces
finger-jointed together, and then milled and primed.

Is this stuff ok to use? Will is hold up, not warp, etc? I imagine that
regular pine would be easier to cope joints, but the price difference is
hard to ignore.


It's okay. I had problems with pine molding bleeding through after a
year, even after applying a shellac primer.

"Buck Turgidson" wrote in message
news:opsihjx8sxjbbkc6@nw4host...
I am looking at some crown molding, and at HD they have "Primed Pine" for
about 2/3 of the unfinished pine. From the back it looks like pieces
finger-jointed together, and then milled and primed.

Is this stuff ok to use? Will is hold up, not warp, etc? I imagine that
regular pine would be easier to cope joints, but the price difference is
hard to ignore.

I have been using plenty of this stuff -- works great for both crown and
base, especially if you are painting it

Question for the day is what type of wood is used --- the stuff I buy from
HD is marked as "product of Brazil" -- anybody know if they have "pine"
there -- can't imagine that we ship bits-o-pine there only to have them
finger jointed and shipped back.......... Inquiring minds.....

On Sat, 4 Dec 2004 21:46:15 -0500, "Sam the Cat"
wrote:

Question for the day is what type of wood is used --- the stuff I buy from
HD is marked as "product of Brazil" -- anybody know if they have "pine"
there

Lots of "parana pine" in Brazil, which bears no relation to northern
hemisphere pine, but is quite nice stuf to work with.

here's some in action
http://codesmiths.com/shed/things/boxes/sarah/

On Sat, 4 Dec 2004 21:46:15 -0500, "Sam the Cat"
wrote:


I have been using plenty of this stuff -- works great for both crown and
base, especially if you are painting it

If I'm painting molding, I really like PVC.

Barry

It's a big genus. Not to mention that "Brazilian cherry" isn't....

http://www.abptrade.com/english/timber.htm

"Sam the Cat" wrote in message
...

"Buck Turgidson" wrote in message
news:opsihjx8sxjbbkc6@nw4host...
I am looking at some crown molding, and at HD they have "Primed Pine"
for
about 2/3 of the unfinished pine. From the back it looks like pieces
finger-jointed together, and then milled and primed.

Is this stuff ok to use? Will is hold up, not warp, etc? I imagine
that
regular pine would be easier to cope joints, but the price difference is
hard to ignore.

I have been using plenty of this stuff -- works great for both crown and
base, especially if you are painting it

Question for the day is what type of wood is used --- the stuff I buy from
HD is marked as "product of Brazil" -- anybody know if they have "pine"
there -- can't imagine that we ship bits-o-pine there only to have them
finger jointed and shipped back.......... Inquiring minds.....