Suggestions for cleaning out rusted miter slots?
 

I've recently acquired a TS with lots of cast iron that had been
neglected. The tops cleaned up nicely, but the slots have been
difficult. Any tips for getting the rust out of the nooks and
crannies?

Thanks,
H

Hylourgos wrote:
I've recently acquired a TS with lots of cast iron that had been
neglected. The tops cleaned up nicely, but the slots have been
difficult. Any tips for getting the rust out of the nooks and
crannies?


Why don't you wrap the runner of your miter gauge with some 150 grit sandpaper,
then advance on up to about 400 grit? I've also had good luck removing
superficial rust with Bartender's Friend.




--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

If the table saw is worth anything at all the miter bar will not fit in the
slot with sand paper wrapped around it. I spray the slots with penetrating
oil and scrub with a brush. I then let the oil dry and use a brass brush to
wipe off the surface rust.
max

Hylourgos wrote:
I've recently acquired a TS with lots of cast iron that had been
neglected. The tops cleaned up nicely, but the slots have been
difficult. Any tips for getting the rust out of the nooks and
crannies?


Why don't you wrap the runner of your miter gauge with some 150 grit
sandpaper,
then advance on up to about 400 grit? I've also had good luck removing
superficial rust with Bartender's Friend.

"Hylourgos" wrote in message
om...
I've recently acquired a TS with lots of cast iron that had been
neglected. The tops cleaned up nicely, but the slots have been
difficult. Any tips for getting the rust out of the nooks and
crannies?

Thanks,
H

Spray the slots with WD40 or penetrating oil and use a wire wheel on a drill
motor to clean out the slots. 3M also makes a wheel that goes on a drill
motor that works very well for this type of thing. They cost about $7 and
are available at most automotive stores like Advance Auto or NAPA. I think
I'd use a wire wheel though since it will probably get into the corners a
little better. The 3M wheel will wear down and contour so that it will
eventually get in there, but the wire wheel will probably do so quicker.
--

-Mike-

On 25 Nov 2004 20:08:39 -0800, (Hylourgos) wrote:

Any tips for getting the rust out of the nooks and
crannies?

You can use wet pad electrolysis. The same old bucket process, but
you do it on the top of a rusty metal item that's too awkward to
submerge.

Turn the slot into a trough by sealing the ends with gaffer tape etc.
Pour electrolyte into the slot (washing soda in water) and then lay a
steel (or stainless steel) rod down the length of the slot, raised on
little plastic spacers (polystyrene foam pizza base is handy and tears
to shape) Power up, negative on the thing you want to keep.

There's no way to clear the rust out, so this process is awkward for
really rusty parts. But it's great for details and unlike abrasives is
non-damaging.

For rust spots on the surface, use a pad of paper towel or kitchen tea
towel, soaked in electrolyte. Use a steel plate anode on top and
weight it down, enough to make good contact, not enough to wring the
pad dry. Make sure the pad stays wet, by annointing it every few
hours. A big hole in the middle of the anode is handy for this.

--
Smert' spamionam

On 25 Nov 2004 20:08:39 -0800, (Hylourgos) wrote:

I've recently acquired a TS with lots of cast iron that had been
neglected. The tops cleaned up nicely, but the slots have been
difficult. Any tips for getting the rust out of the nooks and
crannies?

Thanks,
H
Naval Jelly??

I have naval lint, but not jelly.
max

On 25 Nov 2004 20:08:39 -0800, (Hylourgos) wrote:

I've recently acquired a TS with lots of cast iron that had been
neglected. The tops cleaned up nicely, but the slots have been
difficult. Any tips for getting the rust out of the nooks and
crannies?

Thanks,
H
Naval Jelly??

"max" wrote in message
...
I have naval lint, but not jelly.
max

You have to leave it in there longer. Just after the smelly stage the jelly
stage begins.
--

-Mike-

On Fri, 26 Nov 2004 21:04:00 GMT, max wrote:


I have naval lint, but not jelly.
max

that's a GOOD thing, I think...

On 25 Nov 2004 20:08:39 -0800, (Hylourgos) wrote:

I've recently acquired a TS with lots of cast iron that had been
neglected. The tops cleaned up nicely, but the slots have been
difficult. Any tips for getting the rust out of the nooks and
crannies?

Thanks,
H
Naval Jelly??

I think I'll try the electrolysis first (thanks Andy), since I've
never tried it on anything but a submersible piece, then clean up the
remains with a dremel and wire brush, or even try the sanding pads or
rubber pads (Wonderblocks?).

Good suggestions all. Happy holidays,
H

The time-honored way to remove rust without doing much damage to the metal
is to brush on Coke, which is mildly acidic. You still need to clean it up
afterward.

Steve


"Hylourgos" wrote in message
om...
I've recently acquired a TS with lots of cast iron that had been
neglected. The tops cleaned up nicely, but the slots have been
difficult. Any tips for getting the rust out of the nooks and
crannies?

Thanks,
H

Steven and Gail Peterson wrote:
The time-honored way to remove rust without doing much damage to the metal
is to brush on Coke, which is mildly acidic. You still need to clean it up
afterward.


Didn't Myth Busters do this one a couple/few shows back?

Grounded PVC is the only way to remove rust.

UA100

Unisaw A100 wrote:

Steven and Gail Peterson wrote:
The time-honored way to remove rust without doing much damage to the metal
is to brush on Coke, which is mildly acidic. You still need to clean it up
afterward.

Didn't Myth Busters do this one a couple/few shows back?

Yes they did test Coke as a rust removed and (IIRC) it worked well, at least on
a chrome bumper.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

Unisaw A100 wrote in
:

snip

Grounded PVC is the only way to remove rust.

UA100

So how do I clamp the PVC to my new/old Stanley #7?

Patriarch,
who remembers reading Michael Baglio's informative link on grounding PVC in
a dust collection system...