In article ,
S. Dees wrote:
Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
forward and out.)
There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
am looking at making):
http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
The shelves also need to be adjustable.
Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
Thanks for any and all help!
Sean.

This does -not- directly address the actual question you asked, but....

Have you considered the "Lazy Man's Solution(tm)" to the basic problem?
To wit:
1) "standard design" bookcases
2) some 1x2 stock, in various lengths

Where you want to have books 'face out', you simply lay down (loose!) a strip
of appropriate length along the back of the shelf. Then stack the books in,
bottom of the book against the 'spacer', top of the book against the back of
the case. Voila! Books lean back, so they won't 'jump off the shelf'.

Do the dimensions right, and you can use the _same_ spacer for full-size
hardbounds and paperbacks, simply by rotating the stick,

Note: the 'spacer' doesn't even have to be wood -- a piece of cardboard,
folded into a triangular tube also does the job. And you've got
a continuing source of _that_ in the cartons books are sent to you in.
Hard to argue about 'free' materials. grin

On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 21:02:28 -0800, "S. Dees"
calmly ranted:

The one solution that I have found that seems to be the best so far is to
just trim a small angle off the bottom of the sides so that the shelf
actually leans against the wall. (Then drill a cleat into the wall to mount
the shelf onto to provide stability, and a larger cleat at the bottom so
that the bookcase couldn't be pushed backwards at the bottom.)

And I was half kidding when I said to do that, too. g

What the bookshelf companies are doing is making the shelf
deeper, then angling the backs inward and dadoing the shelves
at that angle. 2 single-panel wide ends cover two shelves with
space in the middle at the bottom.


Thanks for all the suggestions, and if anyone has any further advice I
gladly look forward to hearing it.

Take an angle gauge (offroad stores and Harbor Freight have them)
into a bookstore and measure the actual angle. (8 to 12 degrees
ought to do it.) Alternatively, measure the depth of the cabinet
and the depth to the back, then figure it yourself.

Mark the angle for the end pieces, then cut them to the narrow
topped beasts they'll be so they're lighter to work with.

Cut slots in the end pieces at that angle, creating a V shape for
the 2 backs, then cut the shelf dadoes @ 90 degrees to them.

If you prefinish all the pieces before cutting, a quick spray of
lacquer will tidy them up once they're assembled.

Glue 'em and screw 'em once they're at the site or consider quick
disconnect hardware so they're portable.

Good luck. That sounds like a helluva lot of heavy work even before
you get your stock of books.


Question: What type of bookstore are you opening? New, used, rare,
remaindered stock? I'm a book fiend. scritch, scritch, scritch


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"S. Dees" wrote in message
...
I have done a fair bit of woodworking before. I was hoping for some plans
to
just help me with the shelf angle issue. I've gotten a few very helpful
suggestions from this group so far, and I think I have enough information
to
make a "prototype" to see how it works out. (I can always use an extra 1
or
2 bookcases at home if they aren't perfect.)
At $300 per bookcase that works out to $15,000 - $18,000 for 50 or 60
bookcases. Plus tax. Plus shipping. And that is assuming that I can find
someone in Canada that can do it for the same price as Franklin does it in
the USA. I have 6 - 8 months before the grand opening of my store, and no
other work to fill up my time until then. If I can save $5000 - $10,000 by
doing it myself, that would be the best way to go.
Sean

It looks to me that all they are doing is making the ends tapered and the
shelves are a uniform depth from the front and square to the front edge. The
back is probably set in a dado that is parallel to the front. I wouldn't be
surprised to find that they have heavy duty shelf standards on the ends, set
in dados, to support the adjustable shelves. Perhaps you can get a good
volume discount on the shelf standards and clips to make it pay off? They
look pretty straight forward to make... if you really want to that is!

John

I've seen retailers build their own cases before and they concentrated
on fine materials and simple design.

You might consider using a "stop" piece on the front of the shelf. This
would serve the same purpose as the slant in terms of keeping the books
on the shelf.

But the title edge would not be slanted up toward the eye so that may be
a key factor also.

If doing that many bookcases I think I would rip all the parts on a good
table saw and then mark the angle slots on the sides. Then I would put
a dado on a radial arm and cut the dados for the sloping groove.

There are many great woods available if you are inclined to make a
statement with the cases. You might even sell some cases!

Good luck to you and give the big box boys a run for their money!

RonT

Thanks for the suggestions. It's going to be a new bookstore with a small
coffee bar attached to it. Nice wood floors. Nice bookshelves with lots of
space. I'm looking forward to it. It's going to open late next summer. (I'm
hoping that will give me lots of time to build the bookcases and get
everything ready.) It's going to named the Avid Reader.
Sean
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 21:02:28 -0800, "S. Dees"
calmly ranted:

The one solution that I have found that seems to be the best so far is to
just trim a small angle off the bottom of the sides so that the shelf
actually leans against the wall. (Then drill a cleat into the wall to
mount
the shelf onto to provide stability, and a larger cleat at the bottom so
that the bookcase couldn't be pushed backwards at the bottom.)

And I was half kidding when I said to do that, too. g

What the bookshelf companies are doing is making the shelf
deeper, then angling the backs inward and dadoing the shelves
at that angle. 2 single-panel wide ends cover two shelves with
space in the middle at the bottom.


Thanks for all the suggestions, and if anyone has any further advice I
gladly look forward to hearing it.

Take an angle gauge (offroad stores and Harbor Freight have them)
into a bookstore and measure the actual angle. (8 to 12 degrees
ought to do it.) Alternatively, measure the depth of the cabinet
and the depth to the back, then figure it yourself.

Mark the angle for the end pieces, then cut them to the narrow
topped beasts they'll be so they're lighter to work with.

Cut slots in the end pieces at that angle, creating a V shape for
the 2 backs, then cut the shelf dadoes @ 90 degrees to them.

If you prefinish all the pieces before cutting, a quick spray of
lacquer will tidy them up once they're assembled.

Glue 'em and screw 'em once they're at the site or consider quick
disconnect hardware so they're portable.

Good luck. That sounds like a helluva lot of heavy work even before
you get your stock of books.


Question: What type of bookstore are you opening? New, used, rare,
remaindered stock? I'm a book fiend. scritch, scritch, scritch


----------------------------------------------------------------
* OPERA: A Latin word * Wondrous Website Design
* meaning * Save your Heirloom Photos
* "death by music" * http://www.diversify.com
----------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks for the support! I figure that it won't be too hard to do all of them
once I get going, and figure out exactly what I am doing. Cut 20 or 30 pairs
of sides at a time. Cut all 350 shelves at the same time. Etc, Etc.
Tremendous time-saving advantages.
Sean

"Ron Truitt" wrote in message
...
I've seen retailers build their own cases before and they concentrated
on fine materials and simple design.

You might consider using a "stop" piece on the front of the shelf. This
would serve the same purpose as the slant in terms of keeping the books
on the shelf.

But the title edge would not be slanted up toward the eye so that may be
a key factor also.

If doing that many bookcases I think I would rip all the parts on a good
table saw and then mark the angle slots on the sides. Then I would put
a dado on a radial arm and cut the dados for the sloping groove.

There are many great woods available if you are inclined to make a
statement with the cases. You might even sell some cases!

Good luck to you and give the big box boys a run for their money!

RonT

OK, how about this. Since you plan to display some books the "normal" way
and some face out, why not build regular bookshelves and then make a supply
of book-width wedges. Then, whereever you wish to to display a book with
the cover facing out, you slide one of the wedges under that column of books
so that they will be tilted back at the desired angle.

Lee

--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"

On Wed, 17 Nov 2004 20:50:53 -0800, "S. Dees"
calmly ranted:

Thanks for the suggestions. It's going to be a new bookstore with a small
coffee bar attached to it. Nice wood floors. Nice bookshelves with lots of
space. I'm looking forward to it. It's going to open late next summer. (I'm
hoping that will give me lots of time to build the bookcases and get
everything ready.) It's going to named the Avid Reader.

A coffee bar goes well with a book store. I remember my first trip
to Borders Books in Peñasquitos (North San Diego area) and the treat
it was to hear a duo play and have a good cup of coffee while I
browsed and read the magazine I had just bought.

So what wood and finish have you decided on?
Solid wood or ply with solid edges?

Try a couple coats of Waterlox rubbed out with wax using 0000 steel
wool on the end caps. People will definitely comment on the smooth,
nice, warm feel of the wood, and I think that's what you're after
for the mood of the store. It's quick and easy for touchup, too.

Lacquer might be the best option for the shelves, backs, and inside of
the end caps. It should be safe with all books.

Be sure to stack, pad, and secure all the finished pieces where you
won't have to move them again. Each move is a potential scratch scene.


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I'm with the crowd that suggests regular bookshelves with "insert"
bookshelves that are full depth, have a back, and an angled bottom for
the "specials" you wish to display.

Option 2, you can have everything stored spines out, with a row of
"special" books in stands above where they are located. (single book
holder with a bar or something to prevent casual removal, and a sign
that says "see below" or possible "4th shelf from top")

Personally, while browsing dvds this past weekend, I thought it's be
nice to have a scan of the front/back cover stored in a database for
"browsing" the stacks... A public access computer linked (read only)
to your current inventory would be great... possibly with a shelf
location returned along with the other info on the book. In the books
case, you might include scans of the inside covers on books where info
on that book is kept. Keep a FAQ page for the store on that computer
as well. (I am happier when i can help myself to information rather
than having to find someon and then wait for them to be free.)

Good luck!

--
be safe.
flip
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Remove origin of the word spam from address to reply (leave "+")

Larry Jaques wrote in
:


A coffee bar goes well with a book store. I remember my first trip
to Borders Books in Peñasquitos (North San Diego area) and the treat
it was to hear a duo play and have a good cup of coffee while I
browsed and read the magazine I had just bought.

So what wood and finish have you decided on?
Solid wood or ply with solid edges?

Try a couple coats of Waterlox rubbed out with wax using 0000 steel
wool on the end caps. People will definitely comment on the smooth,
nice, warm feel of the wood, and I think that's what you're after
for the mood of the store. It's quick and easy for touchup, too.

Lacquer might be the best option for the shelves, backs, and inside of
the end caps. It should be safe with all books.

Be sure to stack, pad, and secure all the finished pieces where you
won't have to move them again. Each move is a potential scratch scene.

I'm just curious if you have worked out the amount of space required to
manufacture, assemble, finish, cure and store all of these shelves, prior
to installation? That's a lot of space, just for drying racks for endcaps
coated with Waterlox. Consider also the installation sequence for the rest
of the retail space. You have floors to put down, too.

Were it me, I think that, as early as possible, I'd try a prototype all the
way through to the final installation phase. Then I'd take the plan and
sample out to bid with a couple of good, preferably local, cabinet and/or
millwork suppliers. Just for a reality check.

There are economies of scale with equipment, staff and skills...

Waterlox _is_ pretty, though.

Patriarch

A local cabinet shop predrilled a bunch of holes for me when I bought
some plywood from them and had them cut it into widths I was going to
be needing. They asked what I was doing with it and when it came out
that I was going to be using a portion for adjustable shelves they
said they had a nifty piece of equipment that would drill the holes in
a snap for a fairly inexpensive cost to me. I gave them the specs and
it worked out great.

Renata


On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 19:25:41 -0800, "S. Dees"
wrote:

There is no way I want to do that much drilling... Let's see now... 50 cases
with an average height of 84. Holes would have to be drilled from 12" to
72". On per inch equals 60 holes per row. Times 4 rows per bookcase is 240
holes. Times 50 bookcases is 12,000 holes!!!! No thank you!
I have also found that the holes tend to wear out over time. The last thing
I want to have to do is redo 12,000 holes in 10 or 15 years.... :)
Thanks for the suggestion though...
Sean.


"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
...
In article , says...
As far as angled shelves, I suppose that you could simply use a router
to dado out where the shelves attach to the sides. I think just a few
degrees would be suffecient. If you need adjustable shelves, you could
use adjustable shelf hardware (metal tracks on side) and then
constrauct the actual shelf so that the front is a little thicker where
it rests on the support - this would cause the tilt back that you need.
You would need a little wedge under the rear of the shelf too.

If you use the spoon-shaped supports that fit into holes you wouldn't
need any wedges, the supports would rotate.

But that's a lot of hole drilling. But maybe less work than making
wedges - you decide.

--
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