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  #1   Report Post  
Kathy
 
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Default Desk plan, need advice

I need a desk for my computer & can't bring myself to buy anything on
the market. All the desks out there in my price range are made of
particle board.

I'm an amatuer in woodworking. I've built a picnic table & a play set
for my daughter. Never made anything for indoors. Never did anything
with plywood, but I came up with a design for a desk using plywood,
mostly. I have limited skills, few tools, & no space, so this should
be easy, right? LOL

Here's a drawing of it & a cutting layout for the plywood.

http://www.peggyelliott.com/deskplan.htm

Now my questions;

What kind of plywood? I assume I should be using 3/4", right?
I keep reading about birch plywood & baltic birch, what's the
difference & which do I need? Or something else?

I'm hoping to get my local independent lumber store to cut the pieces
out for me, is that likely? They made all the cuts for the play
center, but that wasn't plywood.

How do I attach the plywood to plywood, do I use a nail gun? I'd have
to rent one. Should I hammer nails in? What size nails? Should I use
screws instead of nails? I assume I should also use glue, what kind?
Should I attach 2x4's or 1x4's underneath & in the back to make it
stronger?

By reading here about plywood, I gather I should attach a 3/4" molding
strip to the edge of the desktop with glue. So using a router on the
edge doesn't work on plywood?

What else don't I know?

TIA
Kathy
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Edwin Pawlowski
 
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"Kathy" wrote in message
om...
I need a desk for my computer & can't bring myself to buy anything on
the market. All the desks out there in my price range are made of
particle board.


Perfectly understandable.




Here's a drawing of it & a cutting layout for the plywood.

http://www.peggyelliott.com/deskplan.htm


Overall, it looks OK, but you need some support for the legs. You need what
is called a modesty panel on the back to give it rigidity. Other bracing
will work, but you need something for sure.


Now my questions;

What kind of plywood? I assume I should be using 3/4", right?


Right

I keep reading about birch plywood & baltic birch, what's the
difference & which do I need? Or something else?


Birch will work. There is also oak, cherry, other types of plywood if you
are willing to pay the price. Baltic birch is not needed here. It has more
plys and come sin 60" x 60" sheets.


I'm hoping to get my local independent lumber store to cut the pieces
out for me, is that likely? They made all the cuts for the play
center, but that wasn't plywood.


Some will, you wil pay for the service though. The cuts may not be as smooth
and accurate as can be done with your own saw and a very good blade.



How do I attach the plywood to plywood, do I use a nail gun? I'd have
to rent one. Should I hammer nails in? What size nails? Should I use
screws instead of nails? I assume I should also use glue, what kind?


Screws and any good wood glue. Titebond, Elmers, etc. You want at least 1
1/2" long screws.

Should I attach 2x4's or 1x4's underneath & in the back to make it
stronger?


See above comment about a modesty panel. You need some support.


By reading here about plywood, I gather I should attach a 3/4" molding
strip to the edge of the desktop with glue. So using a router on the
edge doesn't work on plywood?


Routers work but they leave the ugly ply look. I'd use 1" wide wood strips,
but I h ave the equipment to cut it properly, bicuits, etc.


What else don't I know?


Probably a lot as you get into it. Stop back with the rest of the
questions.



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On 14 Nov 2004 12:25:15 -0800, (Kathy) wrote:

I need a desk for my computer & can't bring myself to buy anything on
the market. All the desks out there in my price range are made of
particle board.


it's disgraceful the crap sold and the prices had for it.




I'm an amatuer in woodworking. I've built a picnic table & a play set
for my daughter. Never made anything for indoors. Never did anything
with plywood, but I came up with a design for a desk using plywood,
mostly. I have limited skills, few tools, & no space, so this should
be easy, right? LOL

Here's a drawing of it & a cutting layout for the plywood.

http://www.peggyelliott.com/deskplan.htm

you have some geometric stability issues here. find some light stiff
cardboard and make a scale model. it'll teach you a lot.



Now my questions;

What kind of plywood? I assume I should be using 3/4", right?
I keep reading about birch plywood & baltic birch, what's the
difference & which do I need? Or something else?


baltic birch comes in 5 foot square sheets. everything else comes in 4
by 8 foot sheets.

baltic birch has all of the layers made of birch. everything else will
have something else for the middle layers.

3/4" is about right.



I'm hoping to get my local independent lumber store to cut the pieces
out for me, is that likely?


policies differ. don't expect that their equipment will be accurate,
sharp or operated by people with the same qualities.


They made all the cuts for the play
center, but that wasn't plywood.

How do I attach the plywood to plywood, do I use a nail gun? I'd have
to rent one. Should I hammer nails in? What size nails? Should I use
screws instead of nails? I assume I should also use glue, what kind?
Should I attach 2x4's or 1x4's underneath & in the back to make it
stronger?


for this first project I'd recommend you use something like angle
brackets and screws. it'll let you make mistakes, take it apart again
and put it back together differently.





By reading here about plywood, I gather I should attach a 3/4" molding
strip to the edge of the desktop with glue. So using a router on the
edge doesn't work on plywood?


I kind of like the look of the edge of baltic birch plywood sanded
nice and finished as is.




What else don't I know?


an *infinite* amount.

like the rest of us....




TIA
Kathy


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Robert Galloway
 
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Default

No suggestion on the plan... Many years ago I fit your description as
regards space and tools. I signed up for an adult ed class at the local
college. Met once a week at night for about three hours for a semester.
Gave full access to the tools in the industrial arts department along
with a heck of a nice instructor to look over your shoulder. You might
check to see if anything similar is available in your area.

bob g.

Kathy wrote:

I need a desk for my computer & can't bring myself to buy anything on
the market. All the desks out there in my price range are made of
particle board.

I'm an amatuer in woodworking. I've built a picnic table & a play set
for my daughter. Never made anything for indoors. Never did anything
with plywood, but I came up with a design for a desk using plywood,
mostly. I have limited skills, few tools, & no space, so this should
be easy, right? LOL

Here's a drawing of it & a cutting layout for the plywood.

http://www.peggyelliott.com/deskplan.htm

Now my questions;

What kind of plywood? I assume I should be using 3/4", right?
I keep reading about birch plywood & baltic birch, what's the
difference & which do I need? Or something else?

I'm hoping to get my local independent lumber store to cut the pieces
out for me, is that likely? They made all the cuts for the play
center, but that wasn't plywood.

How do I attach the plywood to plywood, do I use a nail gun? I'd have
to rent one. Should I hammer nails in? What size nails? Should I use
screws instead of nails? I assume I should also use glue, what kind?
Should I attach 2x4's or 1x4's underneath & in the back to make it
stronger?

By reading here about plywood, I gather I should attach a 3/4" molding
strip to the edge of the desktop with glue. So using a router on the
edge doesn't work on plywood?

What else don't I know?

TIA
Kathy



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Robert Galloway
 
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What kind of plywood? I assume I should be using 3/4", right?
I keep reading about birch plywood & baltic birch, what's the
difference & which do I need? Or something else?



baltic birch comes in 5 foot square sheets. everything else comes in 4
by 8 foot sheets.

baltic birch has all of the layers made of birch. everything else will
have something else for the middle layers.


There's more difference to baltic birch than just that all the plies are
birch. Baltic birch is guaranteed to have no voids so you can show
exposed edges and not have to worry about a big defect which other
plywood may have. Otherwise, though, the outside layer in baltic birch
plywood have about zero character whereas birch veneer plywood can have
outstanding figure. If your going to varnish, I'd probably go with a
birch veneer plywood and plan to use some treatment of the edges such as
solid wood or banding. Unless you take a look at the routered edge of
some BB plywood and decide it's an effect you like.

bob g.
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Morris Dovey
 
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Kathy wrote:

I need a desk for my computer & can't bring myself to buy
anything on the market. All the desks out there in my price
range are made of particle board.


Sounds like a good reason to build one for yourself.

I'm an amatuer in woodworking. I've built a picnic table & a
play set for my daughter. Never made anything for indoors.
Never did anything with plywood, but I came up with a design
for a desk using plywood, mostly. I have limited skills, few
tools, & no space, so this should be easy, right? LOL


It shouldn't be too difficult. If they'll cut the plywood for
you, you shouldn't need a lot of tools.

Here's a drawing of it & a cutting layout for the plywood.

http://www.peggyelliott.com/deskplan.htm

Now my questions;

What kind of plywood? I assume I should be using 3/4", right?
I keep reading about birch plywood & baltic birch, what's the
difference & which do I need? Or something else?


Since you're getting all of the parts out of a single sheet, it'd
probably be a good idea to choose plywood thats attractive on
both sides (have 'em show you what they have so you can select
according to your own taste and budget.)

In my area baltic birch isn't available in 4' x 8' sheets (5' x
5' is largest I've found) so be prepared to cross that off your
list of possibilities - but ask anyway. Plywood is available with
all kinds of outer surfaces and selection of one is very much a
matter of personal taste and budget.

I'm hoping to get my local independent lumber store to cut the
pieces out for me, is that likely? They made all the cuts for
the play center, but that wasn't plywood.


They'll probably as willing to cut plywood as anything else.

How do I attach the plywood to plywood, do I use a nail gun?
I'd have to rent one. Should I hammer nails in? What size
nails? Should I use screws instead of nails? I assume I should
also use glue, what kind? Should I attach 2x4's or 1x4's
underneath & in the back to make it stronger?


My preference is for glue and screws. I think your 1x4's are a
good idea (2x4's might not be a bad idea if you're going to put a
lot of weight on the table.) A "modesty panel" would add a lot of
strength to your design. It would help to prevent "racking", the
tendancy for rectangles to become parallelograms.

By reading here about plywood, I gather I should attach a 3/4"
molding strip to the edge of the desktop with glue. So using a
router on the edge doesn't work on plywood?


It would contribute considerably to a "finished" look and help to
prevent damage to the plywood edges - which would otherwise tend
to become rough and splintery and unfriendly to skin and clothing.

What else don't I know?


That you'll do just fine if you take your time and work
carefully. (-:

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
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Andy Dingley
 
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On 14 Nov 2004 12:25:15 -0800, (Kathy) wrote:

I need a desk for my computer


Here's a drawing of it & a cutting layout for the plywood.

http://www.peggyelliott.com/deskplan.htm

Boring, boring, boring.

Sorry. I'd hate to discourage you, but you can do so much better than
this !

So, you're a beginner. You don't have much in the way of tools or
experience. But that's no reason to make the _design_ boringly simple.
You can use a pencil, right ? Go wild here - why does it have to be a
straight-lined rectangle ? If you're using a jigsaw to cut things
out, a curved edge is actually easier to produce neatly than a
straight edge.

http://www.jarkman.co.uk/catalog/fur...rofoildesk.htm
http://www.jarkman.co.uk/catalog/furnitur/blobdesk.htm
http://www.jarkman.co.uk/catalog/fur...wavystereo.htm
http://codesmiths.com/shed/furniture/gothshelves.htm

Don't be afraid to make a scale model in cardboard before cutting any
wood. Compare these :
http://codesmiths.com/shed/clocks/stickley_nixie/
and
http://codesmiths.com/shed/clocks/st..._cardboard.jpg
(Sorry about the lousy pictures - I really must get a better camera)


IMHO, the basic toolkit for working with plywood or MDF includes a
jigsaw, a drill (a hand drill will do fine) and a router.

You don't need a circular saw. They're only good for straight
full-width cuts, and you can have these done for you at the timber
merchant. They'll charge a trivial sum for doing so, but they have a
lovely saw for doing it, and they'll just do it better. If they can't
do this, shop elsewhere.

The router is there because a cheap router is now an insanely low
price. Even if you only ever use it for rounding over edges, then it's
still worth getting one.

Jigsaws are cheap too. Good ones cost maybe four times as much and
they're far nicer to use (less vibration means more control), but I
don't know what your budget is like.

What kind of plywood? I assume I should be using 3/4", right?


3/4" plywood is good for a worktop, and for the uprights of a desk
that you don't want to wobble. For the rest though, it's excessive
and will look clumsy. There's something to be said for making one
piece of furniture from one sheet of plywood, but it's not the best
way to do things if you can afford it. Can you afford to buy a couple
of sheets, and use the remaining halves on another project ?

Don't rule out MDF. It's heavy and not stiff, but it's perfectly
acceptable for smaller panels. MDF is not the same thing as chipboard.

As a constructional detail, that desk as drawn will wobble sideways
and break in no time. An L-shaped joint just isn't strong enough -
make a box corner by adding a rail or modesty panel between the two
legs, even if it's going against a wall.

I keep reading about birch plywood & baltic birch, what's the
difference & which do I need? Or something else?


They're both made from birch. Some are of better quality than others,
particularly if you're going to use a clear finish and will be able to
see the grain. The labels are not reliable though - ask the supplier
what grade they are.

You might also use tropical hardwood plywood, which is typically the
same quality as the lower grades of birch ply. Particularly the
surface will need more sanding effort.


How do I attach the plywood to plywood, do I use a nail gun?


For thousands of years, woodworkers have used hammers. Just because
Norm now has a nailgun is no reason to switch. Besides which, nails
have almost no use on furniture.

Should I use screws instead of nails?


Yes.

You might also look at the wide range of knock-down fasteners
available from a good hardware store - handy if you're ever moving
house.

The best way to make plywood box furniture is with biscuit joints.
Quick, accurate, easy - but you have to buy a biscuit joint cutter.

Don't be tempted by dowels. They require few tools, but they're a pain
to get the alignment right. If you do use them, make sure you get some
"dowel points" too.

I assume I should also use glue, what kind?


A gallon of cheap PVA from a builder's merchant costs about the same
as a small bottle of "Branded PVA Glue". That's a 20 times difference.
Raid the kitchen (or hair dye) for suitable squeeze bottles.

Should I attach 2x4's or 1x4's underneath & in the back to make it
stronger?


The idea is good, but I wouldn't use that sort of timber, I'd use my
same plywood, turned on edge. For a thicker rail, use two pieces of
plywood glued together.

By reading here about plywood, I gather I should attach a 3/4" molding
strip to the edge of the desktop with glue. So using a router on the
edge doesn't work on plywood?


You can rout plywood, but you expose the grain by doing so. With a
good grade of birch ply and a painted finish, this is OK. I sand it
carefully first, then give it a wipe with a water-based filler like
Brummer Stopping, smooth it with wet fingers, then sand it again when
dry. Under paint, it looks fine.

I wouldn't attach a moulding myself - maybe on the other edges, but
not on the desk edge I'm going to lean against. If I couldn't do a
proper edgebanding with a good solid wide strip of timber, I'd sand
and fill the plywood.

--
Smert' spamionam
  #9   Report Post  
John Smith
 
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Your plan doesn't show any support for the legs. In my experience, even 10
inches of 3/4" wood will bend, making the table seem wobbly. You need to
support the top and the legs to prevent warping. Moreover, no matter how
good the fastener you use between the legs and the desktop, 3/4" is not wide
enough to prevent the joint from failing due to lateral pressure.

I suggest you attach a piece of plywood perpandicular to your legs, running
the length of the leg (so if you were looking down at the leg, it would make
an L shape or a T shape) Make this peice at least four inches wide -- you
don't have to do both legs, but do at least one.

Add another piece of plywood under the work surface (perpendicular to the
work surface), between the two legs. (so if you looked at the table from the
side, it would make a T shape). Make this peice at least six inches.

Use plywood screws and glue to hold it together (the glue really won't do to
much, but it's good practice). Because you probably don't want any marks on
your work surface, you may wish to do pocket holes to attach the legs and
the support -- USE A JIG (either build one or buy one
http://www.woodzone.com/tips/drilling_angled_holes.htm). Be VERY careful
to measure the screw length so they don't puncture through the top.

For edging, I would suggest to buy the iron-on edging, and an edge trimmer.
It's still tricky to use, so practice a bit before doing the really visible
edges on the desk. I would strongly suggest staying away from solid wood
molding until you have a more experience wood working.


Just my $0.02
John


"Kathy" wrote in message
om...
I need a desk for my computer & can't bring myself to buy anything on
the market. All the desks out there in my price range are made of
particle board.

I'm an amatuer in woodworking. I've built a picnic table & a play set
for my daughter. Never made anything for indoors. Never did anything
with plywood, but I came up with a design for a desk using plywood,
mostly. I have limited skills, few tools, & no space, so this should
be easy, right? LOL

Here's a drawing of it & a cutting layout for the plywood.

http://www.peggyelliott.com/deskplan.htm

Now my questions;

What kind of plywood? I assume I should be using 3/4", right?
I keep reading about birch plywood & baltic birch, what's the
difference & which do I need? Or something else?

I'm hoping to get my local independent lumber store to cut the pieces
out for me, is that likely? They made all the cuts for the play
center, but that wasn't plywood.

How do I attach the plywood to plywood, do I use a nail gun? I'd have
to rent one. Should I hammer nails in? What size nails? Should I use
screws instead of nails? I assume I should also use glue, what kind?
Should I attach 2x4's or 1x4's underneath & in the back to make it
stronger?

By reading here about plywood, I gather I should attach a 3/4" molding
strip to the edge of the desktop with glue. So using a router on the
edge doesn't work on plywood?

What else don't I know?

TIA
Kathy



  #10   Report Post  
J T
 
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Sun, Nov 14, 2004, 12:25pm (EST-3) (Kathy) says:
snip can't bring myself to buy anything snip

Circular saw and straight edge will work for the cuts. Me, I'm
able to get the place I buy to cut it for me. They're never able to do
better than "close enough", and sometimes even screw that up. That's
why I always get them to cut it just a bit wide. Sabre saw and straight
edge could work but to me that's way too much work, circular saw is
faster, and easier.

I've found it helps to get some scrap and make "prototypes" of
joints and such. I don't know if I'd use nails, or screws, but probably
small nails - if it ain't meant to come apart, I was brought up to use
nails, instead of screws, screws were resered for something that might
have to come apart sometime. I'd probably also use glue strips in each
of the corners, maybe 3/4 X 3/4, or so. Depending on the time of day,
wind direction, solar flares, and what not, might even be inclined to
just glue it all up, no nails OR screws. Depends. And, if you're going
to paint it, I'd skip real fancy plywood.

I've got something similar to the top section of your plans on one
end of my dining room table. It's 1/2" plywood. Held together with
double-headed nails. It's been there for several years, and was never
intended to be permanent. One of these day I'll pull the nails, and
recycle the plywood. That's why I used the double-headed nails. That
and I didn't have any screws handy.



JOAT
Any plan is bad which is incapable of modification.
- Publilius Syrus



  #11   Report Post  
George E. Cawthon
 
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Kathy wrote:
I need a desk for my computer & can't bring myself to buy anything on
the market. All the desks out there in my price range are made of
particle board.

I'm an amatuer in woodworking. I've built a picnic table & a play set
for my daughter. Never made anything for indoors. Never did anything
with plywood, but I came up with a design for a desk using plywood,
mostly. I have limited skills, few tools, & no space, so this should
be easy, right? LOL

Here's a drawing of it & a cutting layout for the plywood.

http://www.peggyelliott.com/deskplan.htm

Now my questions;

What kind of plywood? I assume I should be using 3/4", right?
I keep reading about birch plywood & baltic birch, what's the
difference & which do I need? Or something else?

I'm hoping to get my local independent lumber store to cut the pieces
out for me, is that likely? They made all the cuts for the play
center, but that wasn't plywood.

How do I attach the plywood to plywood, do I use a nail gun? I'd have
to rent one. Should I hammer nails in? What size nails? Should I use
screws instead of nails? I assume I should also use glue, what kind?
Should I attach 2x4's or 1x4's underneath & in the back to make it
stronger?

By reading here about plywood, I gather I should attach a 3/4" molding
strip to the edge of the desktop with glue. So using a router on the
edge doesn't work on plywood?

What else don't I know?

TIA
Kathy


I think you are going to be disappointed and end up with a very flimsy
desk with your design. A basic desks is just two boxes, a top, and
a back. The boxes are made with a top and a bottom with the sides
between, e.g., sides sit atop the bottom and below the top. You attach
the pieces by putting a 3/4 x 3/4 inch or larger dimension wood in the
corners, e.g. if the sides of the box are 30 inches deep by 25 inches
tall the strips would be 3/4 x 3/4 by 25 inches long (you need four
for each box). Glue and screw strips to the top and bottom pieces
(3/4 inch from the edge) and then glue and screw the sides to the
strips. Make the boxes whatever size you want but realize that you
need at least 18 inches and preferably more room for your legs. The
two boxes need to be the same height and the same depth but can be of
different widths. For example, one could be narrow with a shelf in
the center for storing different papers on edge and the other could be
wider for other materials or you could place your cpu in one of the
boxes.

If cost is a real factor, I would use lower quality 3/4 plywood for
the boxes (or the bottom, top, and inside side of the boxes) and
better quality 3/4 plywood for the top and outside sides of the boxes.
The back of the desk could be 1/4 plywood or even wall paneling; as
others have said you need this back for rigidity. Make the top and
arrange the boxes, if different widths, how you want them.

Attach the top to the boxes with screws which go up from inside the
boxes into the underside of the top and let the top extend at least
3/4 inch past the boxes on the front and sides. Attach the back with
small screws so that it is flush with the top and the outside edges of
the boxes; it doesn't have to extend all the way to the bottom of the
boxes. Finish the plywood edges with iron on strips and screw 2x 6
pieces (flat ways) about 1 inch shorter than the depth of the box and
flush with the back to the center of the bottom of each box to hold
the desk up from the floor. Adjust all dimensions so you get the
desk height you want.

Attaching the top and the bottom to the boxes means that you can take
it apart for moving. And, forget the monitor shelf. If you want to
raise the monitor (not recommended), build a little box an inch or so
larger than the monitor base.

Now all you have to do is finish the thing. Lots more fun.
  #12   Report Post  
Kathy
 
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Thank you for all your responses.

Yes, it's a boring design, but I want something simple. The older I
get, the more I like simple. The monitor shelf can store CD's & paper
& such as well as raising the monitor. I'm interested in saving money,
to a certian extent, but that's not my main motivation, I want
something better than the particle board crap they are selling, &
don't care to spend as much for a desk as I did on my PC.

I do have a drill and a jigsaw. I don't like the jigsaw, probably too
cheap. Love my drill. I can borrow a circular saw from my bil, & can
even get him to make cuts for me in exchange for dinner. I can borrow
a router from a friend at work, I bought a bit for it, so I get
borrowing rights

I will use the last piece of plywood for a modesty panel to stabilize
it, and add 2x4's too. I'll use screws & glue where I fasten the
plywood to the 2x4's. I'll probably get birch plywood, but ask them to
show me what else is available before I decide. I'm hoping that my
independent lumber yard will cut it for me, they have always done a
nice job on my other lumber projects, and they have a couple of well
set up cutting tables.

I would like to take my time, but since I have to clear out the dining
room to make it, I'll pick a day, start at 9:00a.m. & work pretty much
straight thru. That's how I made my picnic table, started early
Saturday, finished Sunday afternoon. But that design was more
complicated, if the plywood is all cut foer me, and I have everything
laid out the night before, I might be able finish this desk in one
day.
  #14   Report Post  
Dave in Fairfax
 
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Kathy wrote:
I do have a drill and a jigsaw. I don't like the jigsaw, probably too
cheap. Love my drill. I can borrow a circular saw from my bil, & can
even get him to make cuts for me in exchange for dinner. I can borrow
a router from a friend at work, I bought a bit for it, so I get
borrowing rights

I will use the last piece of plywood for a modesty panel to stabilize
it, and add 2x4's too. I'll use screws & glue where I fasten the
plywood to the 2x4's. I'll probably get birch plywood, but ask them to
show me what else is available before I decide. I'm hoping that my
independent lumber yard will cut it for me, they have always done a
nice job on my other lumber projects, and they have a couple of well
set up cutting tables.


It sounds like you've got the bases covered. If you need to cut
the plywood yourself, draw your lines and clamp a 2X4 on top of
the ply for the circular saw to run alongside of, so the cut stays
on the line. The design may not be the fanciest, but for fast and
first time, it'll give you a chance to see how things go together
and it's closer to mistake proof. Go for fancy next time.
Good luck,
Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.Patinatools.org/
  #15   Report Post  
David
 
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Try at www.bricomagic.com

You may find what you search.

Regards,
David


  #16   Report Post  
Larry Jaques
 
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On 16 Nov 2004 17:44:11 -0800, (David) calmly ranted:

Try at
www.bricomagic.com

Um, what language is that supposed to be written in, David?

Is that a Euro version of what we normally read in machinery
manuals? (That's a Japanese translation of a Chinese adoption
of the Taiwanese translation of an English manual.)

--snip--
Privacity

We value the trust you put in MagicDIY / BricoMagic.We promise not to
use your e-mail for any other purpouse than sendinm a no usar el seu
e-mail per altre propósit que enviar-los el dossierg the e-zine.
--snip--

It seems to go from an interesting tranlation of English to Spanish
(or Portuguese?) and on into a mix like German-French.

Give me a call if you'd like some inexpensive translation services
performed on the site by an English speaking woodworker.
www.diversify.com

Ciao!


----------------------------------------------------------------
* OPERA: A Latin word * Wondrous Website Design
* meaning * Save your Heirloom Photos
* "death by music" * http://www.diversify.com
----------------------------------------------------------------

  #17   Report Post  
David
 
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We really thank you for informing us about the English text gap.
www.bricomagic.com is a multicultural and multilingual project. We
have invested time and money to achieve this goal, however some gaps
may arise. We apologise for this English mistake, absolutely
unintentioned. We are a start up company, so we have a lot of things
to improve.

You may want to understand what has happened: a peace of text written
in another language has been pasted between the English text. You can
verify it by extracting the words "m a no usar el seu e-mail per altre
propósit que enviar-los el dossier".


You were also interested in knowing which was that language:
www.bricomagic.com is a project developed in Barcelona, so its primary
(or own) language is Catalan. Sure Catalans must be doing something
wrong when someone knowing a bit of (or a lot of ) Spanish,
Portuguese, French or German is not able to identify the language
spooked by Daly, Gaudí, Pau Casals or Columbus.

We will think about this and this is why, sincerely, we thank you
twice.

About your inexpensive translation services offer, take a deeper look
at www.bricomagic.com and send as a quotation. We know we need help
overseas. Please, reply us out of the group, just to follow the terms
and conditions musts.

Once again, sincerely, ThankYou&ThankYou.

David
  #18   Report Post  
Tom Riley
 
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Dear Kathy,

As a direct result of this news group, I have been mastering a
Web site for plans for low-stress computer furniture since 1995 (URL
below). We now have about 50 plans available. Some are very simple
and some are very advanced.

If you look over our plans and find something you like, I
would be most happy to adjust the plans to your exact needs if
necessary.

Right not all the plans are free as I am promoting my new book
(URL also below).


Thanks,

Tom Riley


Woodware Designs
http://www.charm.net/~jriley/woodware.html

My new book is out!!!

"Look the Future Straight in the Eye"
http://www.charm.net/~jriley/book.html



On 14 Nov 2004 12:25:15 -0800, (Kathy) wrote:

I need a desk for my computer & can't bring myself to buy anything on
the market. All the desks out there in my price range are made of
particle board.

I'm an amatuer in woodworking. I've built a picnic table & a play set
for my daughter. Never made anything for indoors. Never did anything
with plywood, but I came up with a design for a desk using plywood,
mostly. I have limited skills, few tools, & no space, so this should
be easy, right? LOL

Here's a drawing of it & a cutting layout for the plywood.

http://www.peggyelliott.com/deskplan.htm

Now my questions;

What kind of plywood? I assume I should be using 3/4", right?
I keep reading about birch plywood & baltic birch, what's the
difference & which do I need? Or something else?

I'm hoping to get my local independent lumber store to cut the pieces
out for me, is that likely? They made all the cuts for the play
center, but that wasn't plywood.

How do I attach the plywood to plywood, do I use a nail gun? I'd have
to rent one. Should I hammer nails in? What size nails? Should I use
screws instead of nails? I assume I should also use glue, what kind?
Should I attach 2x4's or 1x4's underneath & in the back to make it
stronger?

By reading here about plywood, I gather I should attach a 3/4" molding
strip to the edge of the desktop with glue. So using a router on the
edge doesn't work on plywood?

What else don't I know?

TIA
Kathy


  #19   Report Post  
Kathy
 
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Well here it is, next I'm going to paint it. I already thought of
things I should have done different, but I'm still satisfied.
Considering my lack of tools & space, I think it's pretty good.

http://www.peggyelliott.com/deskplan.htm
  #20   Report Post  
Edwin Pawlowski
 
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"Kathy" wrote in message
om...
Well here it is, next I'm going to paint it. I already thought of
things I should have done different, but I'm still satisfied.
Considering my lack of tools & space, I think it's pretty good.

http://www.peggyelliott.com/deskplan.htm


Holy Crappo! Looks pretty darned good for a first time project with limited
tools. Good job on the sheet goods layout also.
Ed




  #22   Report Post  
Morris Dovey
 
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Kathy wrote:

Well here it is, next I'm going to paint it. I already thought of
things I should have done different, but I'm still satisfied.
Considering my lack of tools & space, I think it's pretty good.

http://www.peggyelliott.com/deskplan.htm


I think you did well for a first-timer. You made that one sheet
of plywood work pretty hard - and you definitely have a good,
functional workspace now.

Good job.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html
  #23   Report Post  
Joe Gorman
 
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Morris Dovey wrote:
Kathy wrote:

Well here it is, next I'm going to paint it. I already thought of
things I should have done different, but I'm still satisfied.
Considering my lack of tools & space, I think it's pretty good.

http://www.peggyelliott.com/deskplan.htm



I think you did well for a first-timer. You made that one sheet of
plywood work pretty hard - and you definitely have a good, functional
workspace now.

Good job.

Take the leftover 9" piece, cut a section large enough for a
keyboard and mouse tray, rip the remainder into 4 pieces for the
slides. One pair of strips on the bottom of the desktop and the
others attached to the tray as slides. Use three metal pins in the
rear half of the moving slides to slide in grooves in the fixed
pieces.
Joe
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