Woodbench top - Southern yellow pine
 

I am a bridge research engineer at a university. We are currently
testing a glue-laminated timber bridge constructed with 5" thick,
southern yellow pine deck panels.

When testing is complete, I'm considering using one of the panels to
construct the mother of all workbench tops. I'm thinking about a
3'x6' top which will weigh in about 375 lbs.

Questions -

What's the best way to flatten a panel? I don't have a jointer plane,
but might consider buying one for this project. I'm always looking
for an excuse to buy a new tool.

How flat is "flat enough"?

Best way to protect the top from dings?

Any body else interested in some of this material?

"Mike LaViolette" wrote in message
m...

What's the best way to flatten a panel? I don't have a jointer plane,
but might consider buying one for this project. I'm always looking
for an excuse to buy a new tool.

If you do it yourself, jointer plane or router sled (shop built).

Every "MAN" ought to have a No. 8 jointer plane. :-)

Bob

On 22 Oct 2004 07:34:40 -0700, (Mike LaViolette)
wrote:

I am a bridge research engineer at a university. We are currently
testing a glue-laminated timber bridge constructed with 5" thick,
southern yellow pine deck panels.

When testing is complete, I'm considering using one of the panels to
construct the mother of all workbench tops. I'm thinking about a
3'x6' top which will weigh in about 375 lbs.

I have a couple of bench tops sitting in my shed made from ponderosa
2x6" laminated together narrow edge up. They're not real big, but
they're going to be carving benches. (The wood came out of an old high
school they were tearing down. At this point they've been seasoning
for about a century.)

Questions -

What's the best way to flatten a panel? I don't have a jointer plane,
but might consider buying one for this project. I'm always looking
for an excuse to buy a new tool.

That's what I used. I've got a Primus jointer and it did a good job
with not too much effort. These timbers were rough-sawn on the edges,
although flat on the sides (go figure). Plane on the diagonal and
adjust the cut appropriately.

How flat is "flat enough"?

Flat enough so you don't get splinters. The flatter the better of
course, but I wouldn't be anal about it. (Of course you don't do
build-ups on a carving bench, so you're not using the top as a
reference.)

Best way to protect the top from dings?

You mean while you're working on it or while you're using the finished
bench? Again, because they're going to be carving benches, I don't
worry about it.

--RC

Any body else interested in some of this material?

If I weren't interested in gardening and Ireland,
I'd automatically killfile any messages mentioning
'bush' or 'Kerry'

"Mike LaViolette" wrote in message
m...
I am a bridge research engineer at a university. We are currently
testing a glue-laminated timber bridge constructed with 5" thick,
southern yellow pine deck panels.

When testing is complete, I'm considering using one of the panels to
construct the mother of all workbench tops. I'm thinking about a
3'x6' top which will weigh in about 375 lbs.

Questions -

What's the best way to flatten a panel? I don't have a jointer plane,
but might consider buying one for this project. I'm always looking
for an excuse to buy a new tool.

FWW has a article on flattening large panels. Easy way.


How flat is "flat enough"?

I would make as flat as I could. Since you are an engineer +-.050" over 3'

Best way to protect the top from dings?

Don't use it.

Any body else interested in some of this material?

Where are you?

Dave

On 22 Oct 2004 07:34:40 -0700, (Mike LaViolette)
wrote:

I am a bridge research engineer at a university. We are currently
testing a glue-laminated timber bridge constructed with 5" thick,
southern yellow pine deck panels.

When testing is complete, I'm considering using one of the panels to
construct the mother of all workbench tops. I'm thinking about a
3'x6' top which will weigh in about 375 lbs.

snip

I would think that the large density difference between the grain and
softwood would prevent you from ever having a permanently 'flat'
surface with Southern Pine. Great stuff for lots of applications but
I can't see it as a workbench top. Anybody else used SP for a top
surface?


TWS
http://tomstudwell.com/allprojects.htm

The very best approach in my estimation is to find a local cabinet
shop with a wide belt sander. Offer them $20 and a six pack on Friday
afternoon and it will take 10 minutes. Unfortunately most smaller
shops will likely only have a 24" wide sander but you might locate and
open sided version, although those are ususlly only 15 or 16" wide so
you could only go 30-32".

If the Pine is sappy they may not do it but othet than that it will be
a bunch of work by hand.

Regarding how flat, I wouldn't consider a solid top to ever need to be
real flat. If you want real flat you need to build a torsion box (see
other threads maybe).

Regarding dings, this is Pine. Ding away and enjoy the aged look.

BW

(Mike LaViolette) wrote in message om...
I am a bridge research engineer at a university. We are currently
testing a glue-laminated timber bridge constructed with 5" thick,
southern yellow pine deck panels.

When testing is complete, I'm considering using one of the panels to
construct the mother of all workbench tops. I'm thinking about a
3'x6' top which will weigh in about 375 lbs.

Questions -

What's the best way to flatten a panel? I don't have a jointer plane,
but might consider buying one for this project. I'm always looking
for an excuse to buy a new tool.

How flat is "flat enough"?

Best way to protect the top from dings?

Any body else interested in some of this material?

snip
I just finished my workbench. The top is an old bowling lane made of
southern yellow pine.
It turned out great!
It is the first time I have used SYP. Very hard and heavy compared to the
pine I am used to here in the north.

Best way to protect the top from dings?
I was wondering the same thing about a month ago. So I searched the wreck.
The answer is, you don't try and protect it from dings...it's a workbench,
it's going to get dinged.
You protect it from glue squeeze out etc that may drip onto it by coating it
with a 1/1 mix of boiled linseed oil and turpentine for a few coats (I did
about 6)
Then a mix of boiled linseed oil, turpentine and bees wax mixed 1/1/1 for
the top coat. (I did 3 of this). I melted the beeswax first, added the BLO
then the turpentine. Just wipe it on with a rag. I got the beeswax at an
apiary (and some honey) 2.5 lb block for about $6. I have a lot left over,
but that's the only size block they had. I didn't put the honey on the
bench, but it's great on toast ;)
This turned out awesome. Nice wax top that has a little grip to it so your
work doesn't slide around. Plus, the wax top is easy to plane down, if in a
few years it needs to be resurfaced.
A hard surface, like polyurathane, would be hell on planer blades.
This is my first workbench, and I must say I am very pleased. I have the
wreck to thank.

"Keep your stick on the ice"
Tony

TWS said:

On 22 Oct 2004 07:34:40 -0700, (Mike LaViolette)
wrote:

When testing is complete, I'm considering using one of the panels to
construct the mother of all workbench tops. I'm thinking about a
3'x6' top which will weigh in about 375 lbs.

snip

I would think that the large density difference between the grain and
softwood would prevent you from ever having a permanently 'flat'
surface with Southern Pine. Great stuff for lots of applications but
I can't see it as a workbench top. Anybody else used SP for a top
surface?

I built a bench comprised of laminated SYP strips 2 1/4 tall x 2"
wide. It was glued up into a 72" x 32" top. It is finished with
multiple applications of BLO and Tung oil. It is about 2 years old,
and is quite stable.

See it he
Construction details:
http://www.thevideodoc.com/images/Bench1.jpg

Completed unit:
http://www.thevideodoc.com/images/Bench2.jpg

Finish applied:
http://www.thevideodoc.com/images/Bench3.jpg

It is slightly soft, but not nearly as bad as SPF and a lot stronger.
That's fine with me, however. It doesn't ding up chisels, planes and
the pieces I'm working on.

FWIW,


Greg G.

On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 20:51:44 GMT, TWS wrote:

On 22 Oct 2004 07:34:40 -0700, (Mike LaViolette)
wrote:

I am a bridge research engineer at a university. We are currently
testing a glue-laminated timber bridge constructed with 5" thick,
southern yellow pine deck panels.

When testing is complete, I'm considering using one of the panels to
construct the mother of all workbench tops. I'm thinking about a
3'x6' top which will weigh in about 375 lbs.

snip

I would think that the large density difference between the grain and
softwood would prevent you from ever having a permanently 'flat'
surface with Southern Pine. Great stuff for lots of applications but
I can't see it as a workbench top. Anybody else used SP for a top
surface?


TWS
http://tomstudwell.com/allprojects.htm

I think I'd be "untraditional" and law a sacrificial piece of plywood
over it..

"TWS" wrote in message
...

surface with Southern Pine. Great stuff for lots of applications but
I can't see it as a workbench top. Anybody else used SP for a top
surface?

Its used quite a bit. One of the best sites on building an economical
bench, plus some philosophy is Bob Key's at
http://www.terraclavis.com/bws/beginners.htm.

Bob