I am considering purchasing this router and would appreciate any of your
input on its suitability for my intended purpose. The router is 2.25 hp and
comes with a Gripvac fixed base (a variant to the D handle) and a plunge
base.
I am new to router tables and cutting raised panels, but I anticipate using
it for typical router table work including cutting raised panels and styles
and rails. I also anticpate occasionally using it freehand for edge
trimming and such.
Finally, who do you recommend purchasing this router from? Amazon has this
router $269, less $25 and free shipping. Coastal has it for $269 less $40
plus shipping ~ $8.
Thanks for any advice any of you can provide.
Gary

Gary wrote:

I am considering purchasing this router and would appreciate any of your
input on its suitability for my intended purpose. The router is 2.25 hp
and comes with a Gripvac fixed base (a variant to the D handle) and a
plunge base.
I am new to router tables and cutting raised panels, but I anticipate
using it for typical router table work including cutting raised panels and
styles
and rails. I also anticpate occasionally using it freehand for edge
trimming and such.
Finally, who do you recommend purchasing this router from? Amazon has
this
router $269, less $25 and free shipping. Coastal has it for $269 less $40
plus shipping ~ $8.
Thanks for any advice any of you can provide.
Gary
Its a good compromise between big router table only router and small
handheld router. Enough power to use all but the biggest bits yet not too
overly heavy to be hard to use handheld.
Buy from a local store because sooner or later your going to want more
accessories like an edge guide, template guides, etc and those things are
low priced as to where shipping isn't worthwhile so if you keep the local
guy in business you can just swing by and pick up the accessories rather
than pay to have them shipped from an online dealer.
I'm using the gripvac base in a homemade table simply bolted to 3/4" MDF as
there is enough depth control to make up for the 3/4" lost due to the table
thickness and the gripvac is my table's dust collection.

"Gary" wrote in message
...
I am considering purchasing this router and would appreciate any of your
input on its suitability for my intended purpose. The router is 2.25 hp
and
comes with a Gripvac fixed base (a variant to the D handle) and a plunge
base.
I am new to router tables and cutting raised panels, but I anticipate
using
it for typical router table work including cutting raised panels and
styles
and rails. I also anticpate occasionally using it freehand for edge
trimming and such.
Finally, who do you recommend purchasing this router from? Amazon has
this
router $269, less $25 and free shipping. Coastal has it for $269 less $40
plus shipping ~ $8.
Thanks for any advice any of you can provide.
3

First off I would recommend getting a more powerful router if you are going
to be cutting raised panels with horizontal bits.

"Leon" wrote in
:


"Gary" wrote in message
...
I am considering purchasing this router and would appreciate any of
your
input on its suitability for my intended purpose. The router is 2.25
hp and
comes with a Gripvac fixed base (a variant to the D handle) and a
plunge base.
I am new to router tables and cutting raised panels, but I anticipate
using
it for typical router table work including cutting raised panels and
styles
and rails. I also anticpate occasionally using it freehand for edge
trimming and such.
Finally, who do you recommend purchasing this router from? Amazon
has this
router $269, less $25 and free shipping. Coastal has it for $269
less $40 plus shipping ~ $8.
Thanks for any advice any of you can provide.
3

First off I would recommend getting a more powerful router if you are
going to be cutting raised panels with horizontal bits.

Adding to what Leon has said - that more powerful router should likely stay
in the table all of the time. Once you get set up to properly use the 'big
router' for raised panels and other table tasks, resetting it for other
uses is a PITA. Much more time wasted than even the hobbyist will
appreciate.

I have a Freud 2000e for my table. Others praise the Hitachi MV12 series.
Neither exceeds $200 in price.

My other routers are a PC690 variable speed, and a PC 7310 trimmer. Old
school, solid designs, with all of the bugs worked out.

/Opinion mode on
Buy locally if you can. Local government needs your tax dollars. Local
retailers need your business. Amazon doesn't provide police and fire
services.
/Opinion mode off

Patriarch

On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 10:55:16 -0400, "Gary" wrote:

I am considering purchasing this router and would appreciate any of your
input on its suitability for my intended purpose. The router is 2.25 hp and
comes with a Gripvac fixed base (a variant to the D handle) and a plunge
base.
I am new to router tables and cutting raised panels, but I anticipate using
it for typical router table work including cutting raised panels and styles
and rails.


it's intended to be a general purpose router. it has the balls to do
the occasional panel raising and stick and cope work, but if that will
be it's main use get something bigger.



I also anticpate occasionally using it freehand for edge
trimming and such.

that's more like it.




Finally, who do you recommend purchasing this router from?

someone local. a real tool store, one with a service department and
sales people who have a clue. the few dollars difference in price are
worth it.



Amazon has this
router $269, less $25 and free shipping. Coastal has it for $269 less $40
plus shipping ~ $8.
Thanks for any advice any of you can provide.
Gary

On 29-Sep-2004, patriarch wrote:

First off I would recommend getting a more powerful router if you are
going to be cutting raised panels with horizontal bits.

Adding to what Leon has said - that more powerful router should likely stay
in the table all of the time. Once you get set up to properly use the 'big
router' for raised panels and other table tasks, resetting it for other
uses is a PITA. Much more time wasted than even the hobbyist will
appreciate.

And if you decide to go that route, I'd say that you might want something
else for a plunge router. The 890 plunge base sucks IMHO.

Mike

Michael Daly wrote:

On 29-Sep-2004, patriarch wrote:

First off I would recommend getting a more powerful router if you are
going to be cutting raised panels with horizontal bits.

Adding to what Leon has said - that more powerful router should likely
stay
in the table all of the time. Once you get set up to properly use the
'big router' for raised panels and other table tasks, resetting it for
other
uses is a PITA. Much more time wasted than even the hobbyist will
appreciate.

And if you decide to go that route, I'd say that you might want something
else for a plunge router. The 890 plunge base sucks IMHO.

Mike
what exactly is bad about it, I haven't gotten the plunge base for mine yet.

"patriarch astDOTnet" patriarch wrote in message
6...
"Leon" wrote in
:


"Gary" wrote in message
...

snip


Adding to what Leon has said - that more powerful router should likely
stay
in the table all of the time. Once you get set up to properly use the
'big
router' for raised panels and other table tasks, resetting it for other
uses is a PITA. Much more time wasted than even the hobbyist will
appreciate.

I have a Freud 2000e for my table. Others praise the Hitachi MV12 series.
Neither exceeds $200 in price.

My other routers are a PC690 variable speed, and a PC 7310 trimmer. Old
school, solid designs, with all of the bugs worked out.


Leon,
Thanks for the advice. It does make sense to buy a powerful dedicated
router for the table and something like the PC690 for freehand work.
(Christmas is just around the corner.) Unless I misread, isn't the Freud a
single speed router, and if so isn't that a problem with big bits such as a
raised panel bit?



/Opinion mode on
Buy locally if you can. Local government needs your tax dollars. Local
retailers need your business. Amazon doesn't provide police and fire
services.

I feel the pain of local merchants having to compete with virtual, high
volume, low overhead online merchants. As for taxes, I feel that
contributing 60-80% of my income is enough. (Fed income tax 25%, state
income tax 6%, self employment tax 15.6%, then out of what's left I pay 5%
sales tax and ~$2500 per year property tax.) oh and business personal
property, state unemployment tax, federal unemployment tax, business
license, etc etc.

On Thu, 30 Sep 2004 00:30:29 GMT, "Gary"
wrote:

Unless I misread, isn't the Freud a
single speed router, and if so isn't that a problem with big bits such as a
raised panel bit?



mine is, but it's an older model. the current one is variable speed:
http://woodworker.com/Freud_Router.htm

"Gary" wrote in
nk.net:
snip

Leon,
Thanks for the advice. It does make sense to buy a powerful dedicated
router for the table and something like the PC690 for freehand work.
(Christmas is just around the corner.) Unless I misread, isn't the
Freud a single speed router, and if so isn't that a problem with big
bits such as a raised panel bit?

Freud FT2000EP: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-
/B0000223OO/103-8714104-1494201

Electronic variable speed, soft start, included edge guide, if you want to
use it out of the table.

Patriarch,
just my opinions, worth what you paid for them.

"Gary" wrote in message
nk.net...

Leon,
Thanks for the advice. It does make sense to buy a powerful dedicated
router for the table and something like the PC690 for freehand work.
(Christmas is just around the corner.) Unless I misread, isn't the Freud
a
single speed router, and if so isn't that a problem with big bits such as
a
raised panel bit?


I am not that familiar with the Hitachi other than it offers a lot of value
for the money. IIRC the base has to be modified so that a large bit will
fit. Newer models may have addresses this.


Now, with that in mind, adjusting a table mounted router can be a PIA. The
PC 894 series router address this and IIRC you can change the bit from
above the table.

Eventually you are going to want a router that can be easily adjusted with
precision. The PC you mention does this IIRC but may lack in power for
tougher operations. A few newer powerful routers have also addressed this.
The newer big Milwaukee has this capability and the Triton can do this.
There are router lifts that you can adapt to your router but these usually
run 2 to 3 hundred dollars in addition to the cost of the router. I
personally recently upgraded my old Bosch 3hp router to the Triton. This
router is quite unique and has many nice features. To name a few, the
height can be adjusted precisely while hanging under the table and the bit
can be remove and replaced while hanging under the table. The bit comes far
enough through the table that you can get to the collet. Just some thing to
think about if you decide to mount a larger dedicated router.

Eugene said:

Michael Daly wrote:
And if you decide to go that route, I'd say that you might want something
else for a plunge router. The 890 plunge base sucks IMHO.

Mike
what exactly is bad about it, I haven't gotten the plunge base for mine yet.

Well, as for mine, the plunge posts are bushed on one side with a
bronze sintered bushing, but the other side has a plastic guide. I
get a fair amount of diagonal bit deflection when pressing down on the
plunge base handles even slightly. The plunge lock has been
readjusted 5 times since purchased. You'll know it need adjusting
again when the base suddenly pops all the way out when lifting it from
a work piece. The depth limiter rod does not want to stay in position
unless you REALLY crank down on the lock knob - which I hesitate to do
because of the rod's soft aluminum construction.

I use the fixed base in a router table, and the "above the table"
height adjustment (worm) on the fixed base is made of plastic and is
wearing as we speak. The rack on the router is plastic as well. It
is difficult to make height adjustments because the bit shifts when
tightening the base after adjustment - trial and error procedures are
necessary to get the bit set to the final depth.

You also have to physically turn the router switch off before changing
bits, because it has a lockout tang that prevents you from engaging
the spindle lock when the switch is on. The is fine (and safe) for
handheld use, but for use in a router table with an external switch,
this bites. The collet spindle will not extend above a 1/4" thick
router plate sufficiently to use two wrenches. The spindle hole and
lock pin are already showing signs of metal deformation from using the
spindle lock.

The ball bearings and housings are Chinese - as is the armature. The
speed controller is made in Holland. The unit is bolted together from
it's foreign component parts in the USA.

It has a nice long cord that has held up OK in the shop. the unit
runs a little warm, and the armature (and collet) get quite hot with
use. The depth indicator is frosted so bad you can't even see through
to the scale underneath.

It has had fairly light usage for the past 8 months. I was not really
impressed with my purchase. If I had it to do over again, I would opt
for a better, more powerful router and a Mast-R-Lift.

FWIW,


Greg G.

On 29-Sep-2004, Greg G. wrote:

what exactly is bad about it, I haven't gotten the plunge base for mine yet.

Well, as for mine, the plunge posts are bushed on one side with a
[...]
for a better, more powerful router and a Mast-R-Lift.

This pretty much sums the unit up. I really wish I'd gotten a Bosch 1617
kit instead.

Mike

"Michael Daly" wrote in message
...

This pretty much sums the unit up. I really wish I'd gotten a Bosch 1617
kit instead.

If this makes you feel any better, I have owned the Bosch 1617EVS since
August of 1998. Great router. BUT I have yet to see this model with the
plunge base that the handles did not feel like they would fall off. Every
one of the plunge bases I have handled have had loose handles.

"patriarch astDOTnet" patriarch wrote in message
6...
"Leon" wrote in
:

First off I would recommend getting a more powerful router if you are
going to be cutting raised panels with horizontal bits.

Adding to what Leon has said - that more powerful router should likely
stay
in the table all of the time. Once you get set up to properly use the
'big
router' for raised panels and other table tasks, resetting it for other
uses is a PITA. Much more time wasted than even the hobbyist will
appreciate.

I have a Freud 2000e for my table. Others praise the Hitachi MV12 series.
Neither exceeds $200 in price.


I ordered a Hitachi 12V from Amazon yesterday. I decided on the Hitachi
because of price ($159, less a $25 promotional discount from Amazon), and it
comes with an above the table adjustment knob and assessory kit. I also
ordered a Rousseau Router Base Plate. In the mean time while I wait for
delivery, I am deciding whether to build a dedicated router cabinet or just
mount this monster into my Unisaw table.

I have owned a Ryobi 1 or 1.5 HP (?) plunge router for several years now. I
suppose I'll just continue to use it for freehand work for now until I can
afford a better one.

Thanks to everyone for your advice.

Gary