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Default Micro Adjustment of Table Saw Fence in increments as small as 0.001 inch. Demonstrated on SawStop T-Glide

Moving a table saw fence by very small amounts can be hit and miss.
With a dial indicator at the right location on the fence, I found it is easy to tap the fence and move it by 0.001 inch at a time.

Locate the probe of dial indicator over the fence rail so that dial indicator does not change when the fence is tightened - see red circle in photo below.

A couple of times I have found this fine adjustment helpful:
1. Cutting UHMW runners to fit nicely in the miter slot for floats
2. Cutting mortise and tenon joints on table saw, to get a good fit.

For all other work I just use the measuring tape built into the fence rail. The table saw cut usually gets run over the jointer anyway.

Video Demonstration: https://youtu.be/MZu0JvW1g3k
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/1cx9

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Default Micro Adjustment of Table Saw Fence in increments as small as0.001 inch. Demonstrated on SawStop T-Glide

On 3/2/2021 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
Moving a table saw fence by very small amounts can be hit and miss.
With a dial indicator at the right location on the fence, I found it is
easy to tap the fence and move it by 0.001 inch at a time.
Locate the probe of dial indicator over the fence rail so that dial
indicator does not change when the fence is tightened - see red circle
in photo below.


You do have a SawStop, right?

I have the ICS model and the Fence rule is good enough. Sometimes I use
a steel rule when setting the fence with a stacked dado.

When do you, need more accuracy than that?


A couple of times I have found this fine adjustment helpful:
1. Cutting UHMW runners to fit nicely in the miter slot for floats
2. Cutting mortise and tenon joints on table saw, to get a good fit.


1. You don't need that kind of accuracy for a runner. And you can
sneak up one using a scrap.

2. I have literally build hundreds of kitchen cabinet doors, shaker
style, with a slot and stub tennon. I do not use a rule or the fence
rule at all for cutting the tenons or slots.



For all other work I just use the measuring tape built into the fence
rail. The table saw cut usually gets run over the jointer anyway.


And that is wrong. There is no valid reason to run an edge over the
jointer after cutting to width on a TS. If your TS is not cutting
accurately or leaving tooth marks on your wood you need to spend some
time setting your saw up properly and most of all using a good regular
kerf blade. Like a Forrest WWII.




Video Demonstration:Â* https://youtu.be/MZu0JvW1g3k
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/1cx9


After watching your video, re read what I said again. You are using a
dial indicator to make fence adjustments and yet you are not getting the
correct result. You are having to make extra passes.

If you must use a dial indicator, measure your slot with a caliper and
adjust your fence the correct amount the first time.
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Default Micro Adjustment of Table Saw Fence in increments as small as0.001 inch. Demonstrated on SawStop T-Glide

On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 5:39:45 PM UTC-8, Leon wrote:
On 3/2/2021 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
Moving a table saw fence by very small amounts can be hit and miss.
With a dial indicator at the right location on the fence, I found it is
easy to tap the fence and move it by 0.001 inch at a time. ...


You do have a SawStop, right?

I have the ICS model and the Fence rule is good enough. Sometimes I use
a steel rule when setting the fence with a stacked dado.

When do you, need more accuracy than that?


I've built bookshelves with sliding-dovetail shelf connection,
(actually half-dovetail) with that kind of precision (using feeler gages
which is why the half-dovetail is employed; the test shelf is
puzzle-box tight with 0.017" feeler, so the fence needs to move
0.017").

My jig for making the slots is not adjustable, but shrinks and swells
with humidity (I've made a MDF spacer that gets clamped into it
during storage, or it might warp as well).

It's also good for fine-tuning dadoes before gluing... don't want to
waste good white glue in a gap!
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Default Micro Adjustment of Table Saw Fence in increments as small as0.001 inch. Demonstrated on SawStop T-Glide

On 3/3/2021 2:40 AM, whit3rd wrote:
On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 5:39:45 PM UTC-8, Leon wrote:
On 3/2/2021 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
Moving a table saw fence by very small amounts can be hit and miss.
With a dial indicator at the right location on the fence, I found it is
easy to tap the fence and move it by 0.001 inch at a time. ...


You do have a SawStop, right?

I have the ICS model and the Fence rule is good enough. Sometimes I use
a steel rule when setting the fence with a stacked dado.

When do you, need more accuracy than that?


I've built bookshelves with sliding-dovetail shelf connection,
(actually half-dovetail) with that kind of precision (using feeler gages
which is why the half-dovetail is employed; the test shelf is
puzzle-box tight with 0.017" feeler, so the fence needs to move
0.017").


No doubt accuracy with small increments is important.
BUT your tolerance of .017" is more than 1/64". My TS fence rule as
1/32" increments, in between those increments is .015"

The OP is going for moving a distance 17 times shorter than your
measurement of .017. AND he had to reset the fence multiple times to
get the correct setting. The dial indicator basically was doing him no
good other that telling him how much he was guessing where to place the
rip fence. Why use a dial indicator at all if you do not know where the
fence should be to begin with.

I can appreciate him wanting to be accurate but he does not demonstrate
that he knows what the fence setting should be to begin with.




My jig for making the slots is not adjustable, but shrinks and swells
with humidity (I've made a MDF spacer that gets clamped into it
during storage, or it might warp as well).

It's also good for fine-tuning dadoes before gluing... don't want to
waste good white glue in a gap!


1. I use a caliper to measure the thickness of the piece that will fit
into the dado.
2. I estimate the dado stack cutters needed to make a dado that width.
3. I make a test cut and measure the result. Normally the result is
shy of the needed width.
4. I subtract the needed width from the actual width and shim the
difference.
5. Almost always no other adjustment in dado width is needed. Plywood
being the exception because it can vary in thickness anywhere you may cut.

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Default Micro Adjustment of Table Saw Fence in increments as small as0.001 inch. Demonstrated on SawStop T-Glide

On Wednesday, March 3, 2021 at 6:41:29 AM UTC-8, Leon wrote:
On 3/3/2021 2:40 AM, whit3rd wrote:


I've built bookshelves with sliding-dovetail shelf connection,
(actually half-dovetail) with that kind of precision (using feeler gages
which is why the half-dovetail is employed; the test shelf is
puzzle-box tight with 0.017" feeler, so the fence needs to move
0.017").


No doubt accuracy with small increments is important.
BUT your tolerance of .017" is more than 1/64". My TS fence rule as
1/32" increments, in between those increments is .015"


My tolerance is .001"; the typical final adjustment is determined by setting the jig
too wide, making a test cut, then using feelers and readjusting. The slot needs to be completely
cleared of sawdust before the tail will fit in. Some linseed oil helps it slip into position.

Measuring a dovetail slot is complex, the feelers simplify it.


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Default Micro Adjustment of Table Saw Fence in increments as small as0.001 inch. Demonstrated on SawStop T-Glide

On 3/2/2021 8:39 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/2/2021 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
Moving a table saw fence by very small amounts can be hit and miss.
With a dial indicator at the right location on the fence, I found it
is easy to tap the fence and move it by 0.001 inch at a time.
Locate the probe of dial indicator over the fence rail so that dial
indicator does not change when the fence is tightened - see red circle
in photo below.


You do have a SawStop, right?

I have the ICS model and the Fence rule is good enough.Â* Sometimes I use
a steel rule when setting the fence with aÂ* stacked dado.

When do you, need more accuracy than that?


Never! Most wood pores range from .002 to .008", so tough to need more
accuracy than pore size. These measurements are for machinists, not
wood workers...


A couple of times I have found this fine adjustment helpful:
1. Cutting UHMW runners to fit nicely in the miter slot for floats
2. Cutting mortise and tenon joints on table saw, to get a good fit.


1.Â* You don't need that kind of accuracy for a runner.Â* And you can
sneak up one using a scrap.

2.Â* I have literally build hundreds of kitchen cabinet doors, shaker
style, with a slot and stub tennon.Â* I do not use a rule or the fence
rule at all for cutting the tenons or slots.


I believe you use the $1000+ domino for these joints, right? They are
good but I bet not within a mile of .001" accuracy:-)

For all other work I just use the measuring tape built into the fence
rail. The table saw cut usually gets run over the jointer anyway.


And that is wrong.Â* There is no valid reason to run an edge over the
jointer after cutting to width on a TS.Â* If your TS is not cutting
accurately or leaving tooth marks on your wood you need to spend some
time setting your saw up properly and most of all using a good regular
kerf blade.Â* Like a Forrest WWII.


Video Demonstration:Â* https://youtu.be/MZu0JvW1g3k
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/1cx9


After watching your video, re read what I said again.Â* You are using a
dial indicator to make fence adjustments and yet you are not getting the
correct result.Â* You are having to make extra passes.

If you must use a dial indicator, measure your slot with a caliper and
adjust your fence the correct amount the first time.


After all these years of me bitching about rules with 1/32 increments in
the first foot... For me, most of the time 1/8 is enough, I can guess
between that for 1/16th, but can live with 1/16th 99.9% of the time.
Anything between 1/16th and 1/32nd is a a "tad" and that's more than
enough all the time in WW.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
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Default Micro Adjustment of Table Saw Fence in increments as small as0.001 inch. Demonstrated on SawStop T-Glide

On 3/8/2021 1:30 PM, Jack wrote:
On 3/2/2021 8:39 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/2/2021 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
Moving a table saw fence by very small amounts can be hit and miss.
With a dial indicator at the right location on the fence, I found it
is easy to tap the fence and move it by 0.001 inch at a time.
Locate the probe of dial indicator over the fence rail so that dial
indicator does not change when the fence is tightened - see red
circle in photo below.


You do have a SawStop, right?

I have the ICS model and the Fence rule is good enough.Â* Sometimes I
use a steel rule when setting the fence with aÂ* stacked dado.

When do you, need more accuracy than that?


Never! Most wood pores range from .002 to .008", so tough to need more
accuracy than pore size.Â* These measurements are for machinists, not
wood workers...


A couple of times I have found this fine adjustment helpful:
1. Cutting UHMW runners to fit nicely in the miter slot for floats
2. Cutting mortise and tenon joints on table saw, to get a good fit.


1.Â* You don't need that kind of accuracy for a runner.Â* And you can
sneak up one using a scrap.

2.Â* I have literally build hundreds of kitchen cabinet doors, shaker
style, with a slot and stub tennon.Â* I do not use a rule or the fence
rule at all for cutting the tenons or slots.


I believe you use the $1000+ domino for these joints, right? They are
good but I bet not within a mile of .001" accuracy:-)


Yeah, I never checked, HA! When you mate pieces and you do not feel
the joint, that is close enough. No need to measure. ;~)

The only time I deal with "thousandths" is when I use shims on a dado
stack. But that is no where .001". Heck wood moves more than that from
morning to afternoon in our humid climate.




For all other work I just use the measuring tape built into the fence
rail. The table saw cut usually gets run over the jointer anyway.


And that is wrong.Â* There is no valid reason to run an edge over the
jointer after cutting to width on a TS.Â* If your TS is not cutting
accurately or leaving tooth marks on your wood you need to spend some
time setting your saw up properly and most of all using a good regular
kerf blade.Â* Like a Forrest WWII.


Video Demonstration:Â* https://youtu.be/MZu0JvW1g3k
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/1cx9


After watching your video, re read what I said again.Â* You are using a
dial indicator to make fence adjustments and yet you are not getting
the correct result.Â* You are having to make extra passes.

If you must use a dial indicator, measure your slot with a caliper and
adjust your fence the correct amount the first time.


After all these years of me bitching about rules with 1/32 increments in
the first foot...Â* For me, most of the time 1/8 is enough, I can guess
between that for 1/16th, but can live with 1/16th 99.9% of the time.
Anything between 1/16th and 1/32nd is a a "tad" and that's more than
enough all the time in WW.


32's are decent to use, well they are never decent to use, but I use
them when building something with dado's/groves.
The, less than what you bought, thickness of plywood can throw things
off when the carcass is supposed to be 3/4" thick and your front and
back face frames receives these panels.
The panels fitting into themselves and into the face frames requires a
bit of accuracy.
And you don't know if dado/groove placement is right or not until glue
up. Throw a center stile and vertical panel into the mix and it really
gets your attention.

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Default Micro Adjustment of Table Saw Fence in increments as small as 0.001 inch. Demonstrated on SawStop T-Glide

On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 08:07:18 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/8/2021 1:30 PM, Jack wrote:
On 3/2/2021 8:39 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/2/2021 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
Moving a table saw fence by very small amounts can be hit and miss.
With a dial indicator at the right location on the fence, I found it
is easy to tap the fence and move it by 0.001 inch at a time.
Locate the probe of dial indicator over the fence rail so that dial
indicator does not change when the fence is tightened - see red
circle in photo below.


You do have a SawStop, right?

I have the ICS model and the Fence rule is good enough.* Sometimes I
use a steel rule when setting the fence with a* stacked dado.

When do you, need more accuracy than that?


Never! Most wood pores range from .002 to .008", so tough to need more
accuracy than pore size.* These measurements are for machinists, not
wood workers...


A couple of times I have found this fine adjustment helpful:
1. Cutting UHMW runners to fit nicely in the miter slot for floats
2. Cutting mortise and tenon joints on table saw, to get a good fit.

1.* You don't need that kind of accuracy for a runner.* And you can
sneak up one using a scrap.

2.* I have literally build hundreds of kitchen cabinet doors, shaker
style, with a slot and stub tennon.* I do not use a rule or the fence
rule at all for cutting the tenons or slots.


I believe you use the $1000+ domino for these joints, right? They are
good but I bet not within a mile of .001" accuracy:-)


Yeah, I never checked, HA! When you mate pieces and you do not feel
the joint, that is close enough. No need to measure. ;~)


Yeah, I call bull**** too.

The only time I deal with "thousandths" is when I use shims on a dado
stack. But that is no where .001". Heck wood moves more than that from
morning to afternoon in our humid climate.


The grain is a lot bigger than 1mil. I guess a strand can be cut in
1/10th but it's not going to stay on the board long.


For all other work I just use the measuring tape built into the fence
rail. The table saw cut usually gets run over the jointer anyway.

And that is wrong.* There is no valid reason to run an edge over the
jointer after cutting to width on a TS.* If your TS is not cutting
accurately or leaving tooth marks on your wood you need to spend some
time setting your saw up properly and most of all using a good regular
kerf blade.* Like a Forrest WWII.


Video Demonstration:* https://youtu.be/MZu0JvW1g3k
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/1cx9


After watching your video, re read what I said again.* You are using a
dial indicator to make fence adjustments and yet you are not getting
the correct result.* You are having to make extra passes.

If you must use a dial indicator, measure your slot with a caliper and
adjust your fence the correct amount the first time.


After all these years of me bitching about rules with 1/32 increments in
the first foot...* For me, most of the time 1/8 is enough, I can guess
between that for 1/16th, but can live with 1/16th 99.9% of the time.
Anything between 1/16th and 1/32nd is a a "tad" and that's more than
enough all the time in WW.


32's are decent to use, well they are never decent to use, but I use
them when building something with dado's/groves.
The, less than what you bought, thickness of plywood can throw things
off when the carcass is supposed to be 3/4" thick and your front and
back face frames receives these panels.
The panels fitting into themselves and into the face frames requires a
bit of accuracy.
And you don't know if dado/groove placement is right or not until glue
up. Throw a center stile and vertical panel into the mix and it really
gets your attention.


But not a 32nd of a 32nd of an inch.
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Default Micro Adjustment of Table Saw Fence in increments as small as0.001 inch. Demonstrated on SawStop T-Glide

On Tuesday, March 9, 2021 at 5:55:46 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 08:07:18 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/8/2021 1:30 PM, Jack wrote:
On 3/2/2021 8:39 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/2/2021 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
Moving a table saw fence by very small amounts can be hit and miss.
With a dial indicator at the right location on the fence, I found it
is easy to tap the fence and move it by 0.001 inch at a time. ...


I have the ICS model and the Fence rule is good enough. Sometimes I
use a steel rule when setting the fence with a stacked dado.

When do you, need more accuracy than that?

Never! Most wood pores range from .002 to .008", so tough to need more
accuracy than pore size. These measurements are for machinists, not
wood workers...


Yeah, I never checked, HA! When you mate pieces and you do not feel
the joint, that is close enough. No need to measure. ;~)


Yeah, I call bull**** too.


Yabbut... when I probe with feeler gages, I'm not feeling that the drag from 0.017" blade
is the same as the drag when inserting the 0.016" blade. I can tell how far to adjust
the jig by that measurement, and even if the texture is larger than the tolerance, the
feel is definitely different. My jigs for this are wood (plywood, and some straight-grained
very well-aged softwood as well) and do NOT make a correct fit a few days after
being in good adjustment, because the wood does move. Assembled pieces, though,
seem to stay tight, for the half-dozen years I've been using them.
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Default Micro Adjustment of Table Saw Fence in increments as small as0.001 inch. Demonstrated on SawStop T-Glide

On 3/9/2021 7:55 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 9 Mar 2021 08:07:18 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/8/2021 1:30 PM, Jack wrote:
On 3/2/2021 8:39 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/2/2021 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
Moving a table saw fence by very small amounts can be hit and miss.
With a dial indicator at the right location on the fence, I found it
is easy to tap the fence and move it by 0.001 inch at a time.
Locate the probe of dial indicator over the fence rail so that dial
indicator does not change when the fence is tightened - see red
circle in photo below.


You do have a SawStop, right?

I have the ICS model and the Fence rule is good enough.Â* Sometimes I
use a steel rule when setting the fence with aÂ* stacked dado.

When do you, need more accuracy than that?

Never! Most wood pores range from .002 to .008", so tough to need more
accuracy than pore size.Â* These measurements are for machinists, not
wood workers...


A couple of times I have found this fine adjustment helpful:
1. Cutting UHMW runners to fit nicely in the miter slot for floats
2. Cutting mortise and tenon joints on table saw, to get a good fit.

1.Â* You don't need that kind of accuracy for a runner.Â* And you can
sneak up one using a scrap.

2.Â* I have literally build hundreds of kitchen cabinet doors, shaker
style, with a slot and stub tennon.Â* I do not use a rule or the fence
rule at all for cutting the tenons or slots.

I believe you use the $1000+ domino for these joints, right? They are
good but I bet not within a mile of .001" accuracy:-)


Yeah, I never checked, HA! When you mate pieces and you do not feel
the joint, that is close enough. No need to measure. ;~)


Yeah, I call bull**** too.


You obliviously do not own a Domino. ;!)



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Default Micro Adjustment of Table Saw Fence in increments as small as 0.001 inch. Demonstrated on SawStop T-Glide

whit3rd writes:
Yabbut... when I probe with feeler gages, I'm not feeling that the
drag from 0.017" blade is the same as the drag when inserting the
0.016" blade.


I got the same arguments when I built my router table with 0.001"
precision fence and lift systems. "But wood moves!" Yeah, but it won't
move *now* and these dovetails are sensitive to a few thou difference.
Plus, both pieces will move the same later.

Same with the TS, which now also has an 0.001" precision fence (finally
. It's not about being exactly one inch, it's about being exactly the
right size to fit other pieces. Your finger can detect a 0.001"
difference in height at a seam, for example, and if all the parts swell
together, that feelable seam will be feelable forever.

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Default Micro Adjustment of Table Saw Fence in increments as small as0.001 inch. Demonstrated on SawStop T-Glide

On Wednesday, March 10, 2021 at 2:23:03 PM UTC-5, DJ Delorie wrote:
whit3rd writes:
Yabbut... when I probe with feeler gages, I'm not feeling that the
drag from 0.017" blade is the same as the drag when inserting the
0.016" blade.

I got the same arguments when I built my router table with 0.001"
precision fence and lift systems. "But wood moves!" Yeah, but it won't
move *now* and these dovetails are sensitive to a few thou difference.
Plus, both pieces will move the same later.

Same with the TS, which now also has an 0.001" precision fence (finally
. It's not about being exactly one inch, it's about being exactly the
right size to fit other pieces. Your finger can detect a 0.001"
difference in height at a seam, for example, and if all the parts swell
together, that feelable seam will be feelable forever.


"...if all the parts swell together"

Shouldn't that be an uppercase, bold face, larger font size, bright red,
italicized "if"?
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Default Micro Adjustment of Table Saw Fence in increments as small as 0.001 inch. Demonstrated on SawStop T-Glide

DerbyDad03 writes:
Shouldn't that be an uppercase, bold face, larger font size, bright red,
italicized "if"?


Perhaps, if the humidity varies that much across the size of your
project ;-)
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