Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob

On Tue, 16 Feb 2021 16:18:54 -0800 (PST), Bob D
wrote:

Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Getting these things aligned is _really_ difficult on a drill press
with it built in. I can imagine it's an order of magnitude more
difficult, if even possible, as an add-on. It's not like an SCMS
where the blade can be used as a reference. The laser has to come
from outside the center of the drill but each has to be aligned on two
axis to the lines track the table.

I have lasers built into my DP and they are one RPITA to get aligned
properly. Even then, they're really only useful for finding marks.
I'd never use the lasers alone. They're not nearly as useful as the
lasers on an SMCS.

For $37.50? Maybe, but don't expect too much.

On Tuesday, February 16, 2021 at 7:59:21 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Tue, 16 Feb 2021 16:18:54 -0800 (PST), Bob D
wrote:

Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.
Getting these things aligned is _really_ difficult on a drill press
with it built in. I can imagine it's an order of magnitude more
difficult, if even possible, as an add-on. It's not like an SCMS
where the blade can be used as a reference. The laser has to come
from outside the center of the drill but each has to be aligned on two
axis to the lines track the table.

I have lasers built into my DP and they are one RPITA to get aligned
properly. Even then, they're really only useful for finding marks.
I'd never use the lasers alone. They're not nearly as useful as the
lasers on an SMCS.

For $37.50? Maybe, but don't expect too much.
Thanks for that feedback! I had a gut feel that it was more hype than useful. Since I use setup blocks to position my DP fence, it would drive me crazy to use something that is fiddly and less accurate.

On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.

On 2/18/2021 11:24 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.



That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a
larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact
spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:47:02 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 11:24 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.



That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a
larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact
spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

But a smaller bit defeats the purpose of the brad. If you have to
drill at an angle, use a Forstner bit. ...or just use a twist drill
and be done with it.

On 2/18/2021 4:03 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:47:02 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 11:24 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.



That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a
larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact
spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

But a smaller bit defeats the purpose of the brad. If you have to
drill at an angle, use a Forstner bit. ...or just use a twist drill
and be done with it.



The small bit was for alignment only. The spurs on the 1/2" brad point
bit cut into the wood, at an angle, very much like a Forstner bit. The
bottles being drilled sat in a cradle.

On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 16:54:46 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 4:03 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:47:02 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 11:24 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.



That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a
larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact
spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

But a smaller bit defeats the purpose of the brad. If you have to
drill at an angle, use a Forstner bit. ...or just use a twist drill
and be done with it.



The small bit was for alignment only. The spurs on the 1/2" brad point
bit cut into the wood, at an angle, very much like a Forstner bit. The
bottles being drilled sat in a cradle.

But if the brads touch the wood before the pin, a pilot hole isn't
going to do a thing. The pin won't do anything either. Might just as
well use a twist drill.

Also, there are only two brads so the bit will tend to "walk". A
Forstner but won't "walk". A Forstner is a better choice.

On 2/18/2021 7:21 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 16:54:46 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 4:03 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:47:02 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 11:24 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.



That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a
larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact
spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

But a smaller bit defeats the purpose of the brad. If you have to
drill at an angle, use a Forstner bit. ...or just use a twist drill
and be done with it.



The small bit was for alignment only. The spurs on the 1/2" brad point
bit cut into the wood, at an angle, very much like a Forstner bit. The
bottles being drilled sat in a cradle.

But if the brads touch the wood before the pin, a pilot hole isn't
going to do a thing. The pin won't do anything either. Might just as
well use a twist drill.

With a 1/2" bit no deflection so no pilot hole needed. A regular bit
will not cut as cleanly at the entry point as a brad point bit.



Also, there are only two brads so the bit will tend to "walk". A
Forstner but won't "walk". A Forstner is a better choice.


And yet, I had no issue with the bit doing anything but go straight down
and into the wood. The spurs were cutting cleanly before the brad
point. Like a Forstner bit.

I will say however that I was using the Colt 5 Star brad point bit.
Those bits 1/4" and larger, cut through a piece of wood with no backer
board and do not tear out on the back side when the bit goes through.

On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 10:44:37 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/18/2021 7:21 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 16:54:46 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 4:03 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:47:02 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 11:24 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.



That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a
larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact
spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

But a smaller bit defeats the purpose of the brad. If you have to
drill at an angle, use a Forstner bit. ...or just use a twist drill
and be done with it.



The small bit was for alignment only. The spurs on the 1/2" brad point
bit cut into the wood, at an angle, very much like a Forstner bit. The
bottles being drilled sat in a cradle.

But if the brads touch the wood before the pin, a pilot hole isn't
going to do a thing. The pin won't do anything either. Might just as
well use a twist drill.
With a 1/2" bit no deflection so no pilot hole needed. A regular bit
will not cut as cleanly at the entry point as a brad point bit.

Also, there are only two brads so the bit will tend to "walk". A
Forstner but won't "walk". A Forstner is a better choice.

And yet, I had no issue with the bit doing anything but go straight down
and into the wood. The spurs were cutting cleanly before the brad
point. Like a Forstner bit.

I will say however that I was using the Colt 5 Star brad point bit.
Those bits 1/4" and larger, cut through a piece of wood with no backer
board and do not tear out on the back side when the bit goes through.

It's the wood, not the bits. Those Festool boards never tear out. ;-)

On Fri, 19 Feb 2021 09:44:31 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 7:21 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 16:54:46 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 4:03 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:47:02 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 11:24 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.



That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a
larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact
spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

But a smaller bit defeats the purpose of the brad. If you have to
drill at an angle, use a Forstner bit. ...or just use a twist drill
and be done with it.



The small bit was for alignment only. The spurs on the 1/2" brad point
bit cut into the wood, at an angle, very much like a Forstner bit. The
bottles being drilled sat in a cradle.

But if the brads touch the wood before the pin, a pilot hole isn't
going to do a thing. The pin won't do anything either. Might just as
well use a twist drill.

With a 1/2" bit no deflection so no pilot hole needed. A regular bit
will not cut as cleanly at the entry point as a brad point bit.



Also, there are only two brads so the bit will tend to "walk". A
Forstner but won't "walk". A Forstner is a better choice.


And yet, I had no issue with the bit doing anything but go straight down
and into the wood. The spurs were cutting cleanly before the brad
point. Like a Forstner bit.

I will say however that I was using the Colt 5 Star brad point bit.
Those bits 1/4" and larger, cut through a piece of wood with no backer
board and do not tear out on the back side when the bit goes through.

Since Colts are no longer available, I had to settle for Fisch. I do
have a few Colts but sets weren't available even several years ago.
I'd still rather use a Forstner for off-axis holes.

On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 9:12:37 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Feb 2021 09:44:31 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 7:21 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 16:54:46 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 4:03 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:47:02 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 11:24 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.



That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a
larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact
spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

But a smaller bit defeats the purpose of the brad. If you have to
drill at an angle, use a Forstner bit. ...or just use a twist drill
and be done with it.



The small bit was for alignment only. The spurs on the 1/2" brad point
bit cut into the wood, at an angle, very much like a Forstner bit. The
bottles being drilled sat in a cradle.

But if the brads touch the wood before the pin, a pilot hole isn't
going to do a thing. The pin won't do anything either. Might just as
well use a twist drill.

With a 1/2" bit no deflection so no pilot hole needed. A regular bit
will not cut as cleanly at the entry point as a brad point bit.



Also, there are only two brads so the bit will tend to "walk". A
Forstner but won't "walk". A Forstner is a better choice.


And yet, I had no issue with the bit doing anything but go straight down
and into the wood. The spurs were cutting cleanly before the brad
point. Like a Forstner bit.

I will say however that I was using the Colt 5 Star brad point bit.
Those bits 1/4" and larger, cut through a piece of wood with no backer
board and do not tear out on the back side when the bit goes through.
Since Colts are no longer available, I had to settle for Fisch. I do
have a few Colts but sets weren't available even several years ago.
I'd still rather use a Forstner for off-axis holes.

I use Lee Valley HSS brad point bits and Freud carbide forstners. I find them to be equal for clean cutting and not walking. Actually the Lee valley bits have a superior point. They are kind of surgical in nature.

Bob

On 2/19/2021 9:12 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Feb 2021 09:44:31 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 7:21 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 16:54:46 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 4:03 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:47:02 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 11:24 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.



That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a
larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact
spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

But a smaller bit defeats the purpose of the brad. If you have to
drill at an angle, use a Forstner bit. ...or just use a twist drill
and be done with it.



The small bit was for alignment only. The spurs on the 1/2" brad point
bit cut into the wood, at an angle, very much like a Forstner bit. The
bottles being drilled sat in a cradle.

But if the brads touch the wood before the pin, a pilot hole isn't
going to do a thing. The pin won't do anything either. Might just as
well use a twist drill.

With a 1/2" bit no deflection so no pilot hole needed. A regular bit
will not cut as cleanly at the entry point as a brad point bit.



Also, there are only two brads so the bit will tend to "walk". A
Forstner but won't "walk". A Forstner is a better choice.


And yet, I had no issue with the bit doing anything but go straight down
and into the wood. The spurs were cutting cleanly before the brad
point. Like a Forstner bit.

I will say however that I was using the Colt 5 Star brad point bit.
Those bits 1/4" and larger, cut through a piece of wood with no backer
board and do not tear out on the back side when the bit goes through.

Since Colts are no longer available, I had to settle for Fisch. I do
have a few Colts but sets weren't available even several years ago.
I'd still rather use a Forstner for off-axis holes.



Actually they are available.

https://www.amazon.com/Colt-Star-Bra.../dp/B008I2KVE2

AND not all Colt brad point bits are created equally, the 5 Star are
much cleaner cutting.

I do have Forstner bits but really could tell no difference in making
the holes for the wine bottle stopper holders.

On Sat, 20 Feb 2021 15:00:59 -0800 (PST), Bob D
wrote:

On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 9:12:37 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Feb 2021 09:44:31 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 7:21 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 16:54:46 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 4:03 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:47:02 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 11:24 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.



That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a
larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact
spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

But a smaller bit defeats the purpose of the brad. If you have to
drill at an angle, use a Forstner bit. ...or just use a twist drill
and be done with it.



The small bit was for alignment only. The spurs on the 1/2" brad point
bit cut into the wood, at an angle, very much like a Forstner bit. The
bottles being drilled sat in a cradle.

But if the brads touch the wood before the pin, a pilot hole isn't
going to do a thing. The pin won't do anything either. Might just as
well use a twist drill.

With a 1/2" bit no deflection so no pilot hole needed. A regular bit
will not cut as cleanly at the entry point as a brad point bit.



Also, there are only two brads so the bit will tend to "walk". A
Forstner but won't "walk". A Forstner is a better choice.


And yet, I had no issue with the bit doing anything but go straight down
and into the wood. The spurs were cutting cleanly before the brad
point. Like a Forstner bit.

I will say however that I was using the Colt 5 Star brad point bit.
Those bits 1/4" and larger, cut through a piece of wood with no backer
board and do not tear out on the back side when the bit goes through.
Since Colts are no longer available, I had to settle for Fisch. I do
have a few Colts but sets weren't available even several years ago.
I'd still rather use a Forstner for off-axis holes.

I use Lee Valley HSS brad point bits and Freud carbide forstners. I find them to be equal for clean cutting and not walking. Actually the Lee valley bits have a superior point. They are kind of surgical in nature.

All else being equal, steel will take a better edge than carbide. It
just won't keep it as long.

On Sat, 20 Feb 2021 17:11:33 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/19/2021 9:12 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Feb 2021 09:44:31 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 7:21 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 16:54:46 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 4:03 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:47:02 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 11:24 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.



That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a
larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact
spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

But a smaller bit defeats the purpose of the brad. If you have to
drill at an angle, use a Forstner bit. ...or just use a twist drill
and be done with it.



The small bit was for alignment only. The spurs on the 1/2" brad point
bit cut into the wood, at an angle, very much like a Forstner bit. The
bottles being drilled sat in a cradle.

But if the brads touch the wood before the pin, a pilot hole isn't
going to do a thing. The pin won't do anything either. Might just as
well use a twist drill.

With a 1/2" bit no deflection so no pilot hole needed. A regular bit
will not cut as cleanly at the entry point as a brad point bit.



Also, there are only two brads so the bit will tend to "walk". A
Forstner but won't "walk". A Forstner is a better choice.


And yet, I had no issue with the bit doing anything but go straight down
and into the wood. The spurs were cutting cleanly before the brad
point. Like a Forstner bit.

I will say however that I was using the Colt 5 Star brad point bit.
Those bits 1/4" and larger, cut through a piece of wood with no backer
board and do not tear out on the back side when the bit goes through.

Since Colts are no longer available, I had to settle for Fisch. I do
have a few Colts but sets weren't available even several years ago.
I'd still rather use a Forstner for off-axis holes.



Actually they are available.

https://www.amazon.com/Colt-Star-Bra.../dp/B008I2KVE2

"They" are not. The only one listed is a 7/16" and that's the last
one left. I don't see a set sold anywhere. At $21.95 a bit, a set of
29 is well into the Festool range. ;-)

Hartville tool only lists a 7/16", also. Strange, eh?

AND not all Colt brad point bits are created equally, the 5 Star are
much cleaner cutting.

I do have Forstner bits but really could tell no difference in making
the holes for the wine bottle stopper holders.

Aren't wine bottle stopper holders called "wine bottles"?

On Saturday, February 20, 2021 at 8:41:15 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sat, 20 Feb 2021 17:11:33 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/19/2021 9:12 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Feb 2021 09:44:31 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 7:21 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 16:54:46 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 4:03 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:47:02 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 11:24 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.



That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a
larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact
spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

But a smaller bit defeats the purpose of the brad. If you have to
drill at an angle, use a Forstner bit. ...or just use a twist drill
and be done with it.



The small bit was for alignment only. The spurs on the 1/2" brad point
bit cut into the wood, at an angle, very much like a Forstner bit. The
bottles being drilled sat in a cradle.

But if the brads touch the wood before the pin, a pilot hole isn't
going to do a thing. The pin won't do anything either. Might just as
well use a twist drill.

With a 1/2" bit no deflection so no pilot hole needed. A regular bit
will not cut as cleanly at the entry point as a brad point bit.



Also, there are only two brads so the bit will tend to "walk". A
Forstner but won't "walk". A Forstner is a better choice.


And yet, I had no issue with the bit doing anything but go straight down
and into the wood. The spurs were cutting cleanly before the brad
point. Like a Forstner bit.

I will say however that I was using the Colt 5 Star brad point bit.
Those bits 1/4" and larger, cut through a piece of wood with no backer
board and do not tear out on the back side when the bit goes through.

Since Colts are no longer available, I had to settle for Fisch. I do
have a few Colts but sets weren't available even several years ago.
I'd still rather use a Forstner for off-axis holes.



Actually they are available.

https://www.amazon.com/Colt-Star-Bra.../dp/B008I2KVE2
"They" are not. The only one listed is a 7/16" and that's the last
one left. I don't see a set sold anywhere. At $21.95 a bit, a set of
29 is well into the Festool range. ;-)

Hartville tool only lists a 7/16", also. Strange, eh?

AND not all Colt brad point bits are created equally, the 5 Star are
much cleaner cutting.

I do have Forstner bits but really could tell no difference in making
the holes for the wine bottle stopper holders.
Aren't wine bottle stopper holders called "wine bottles"?

Sometimes the wine bottle stopper holder is the person that just made
wine bottle unstopped. Right after that it's usually the table, bar or
countertop.

On 2/20/2021 6:55 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 20 Feb 2021 15:00:59 -0800 (PST), Bob D
wrote:

On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 9:12:37 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Feb 2021 09:44:31 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 7:21 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 16:54:46 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 4:03 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:47:02 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 11:24 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.



That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a
larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact
spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

But a smaller bit defeats the purpose of the brad. If you have to
drill at an angle, use a Forstner bit. ...or just use a twist drill
and be done with it.



The small bit was for alignment only. The spurs on the 1/2" brad point
bit cut into the wood, at an angle, very much like a Forstner bit. The
bottles being drilled sat in a cradle.

But if the brads touch the wood before the pin, a pilot hole isn't
going to do a thing. The pin won't do anything either. Might just as
well use a twist drill.

With a 1/2" bit no deflection so no pilot hole needed. A regular bit
will not cut as cleanly at the entry point as a brad point bit.



Also, there are only two brads so the bit will tend to "walk". A
Forstner but won't "walk". A Forstner is a better choice.


And yet, I had no issue with the bit doing anything but go straight down
and into the wood. The spurs were cutting cleanly before the brad
point. Like a Forstner bit.

I will say however that I was using the Colt 5 Star brad point bit.
Those bits 1/4" and larger, cut through a piece of wood with no backer
board and do not tear out on the back side when the bit goes through.
Since Colts are no longer available, I had to settle for Fisch. I do
have a few Colts but sets weren't available even several years ago.
I'd still rather use a Forstner for off-axis holes.

I use Lee Valley HSS brad point bits and Freud carbide forstners. I find them to be equal for clean cutting and not walking. Actually the Lee valley bits have a superior point. They are kind of surgical in nature.

All else being equal, steel will take a better edge than carbide. It
just won't keep it as long.



The results deeply depend on the material. was doing plunge cuts,
through 3/8" thick Ipe, with a 3/8" carbide router bit. These cuts were
1.5" long. A carbide router bit would last me approximately 300", and
200 plunges before needing to be resharpened.

I neighbor suggested and brought me a HSS end mill bit of the same size.
I used it for the same function and never wore it enough to need to be
resharpened or replacement.

In this case comparing new carbide to new HHS end mill bit, the end mill
bits stayed sharp an undetermined amount of time longer.

On 2/20/2021 7:41 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 20 Feb 2021 17:11:33 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/19/2021 9:12 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Feb 2021 09:44:31 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 7:21 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 16:54:46 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 4:03 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:47:02 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 11:24 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.



That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a
larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact
spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

But a smaller bit defeats the purpose of the brad. If you have to
drill at an angle, use a Forstner bit. ...or just use a twist drill
and be done with it.



The small bit was for alignment only. The spurs on the 1/2" brad point
bit cut into the wood, at an angle, very much like a Forstner bit. The
bottles being drilled sat in a cradle.

But if the brads touch the wood before the pin, a pilot hole isn't
going to do a thing. The pin won't do anything either. Might just as
well use a twist drill.

With a 1/2" bit no deflection so no pilot hole needed. A regular bit
will not cut as cleanly at the entry point as a brad point bit.



Also, there are only two brads so the bit will tend to "walk". A
Forstner but won't "walk". A Forstner is a better choice.


And yet, I had no issue with the bit doing anything but go straight down
and into the wood. The spurs were cutting cleanly before the brad
point. Like a Forstner bit.

I will say however that I was using the Colt 5 Star brad point bit.
Those bits 1/4" and larger, cut through a piece of wood with no backer
board and do not tear out on the back side when the bit goes through.

Since Colts are no longer available, I had to settle for Fisch. I do
have a few Colts but sets weren't available even several years ago.
I'd still rather use a Forstner for off-axis holes.



Actually they are available.

https://www.amazon.com/Colt-Star-Bra.../dp/B008I2KVE2

"They" are not. The only one listed is a 7/16" and that's the last
one left. I don't see a set sold anywhere. At $21.95 a bit, a set of
29 is well into the Festool range. ;-)

Well, yes they are, I just added that bit to my cart.

Hartville Hardware has 3 different sizes listed. Only 7/16 and 1/2" in
stock.

BUT I never bought a set all at once. I bought them individual. And
yes they are expensive but they are priced according to size.

I bought several individual of these bits in several sizes from a close
out table at Cornerstone Hardware a few years back. IIRC they were
marked down 75%. I bought at least one of each size.

When you see them you have to jump on them. ;~)

They are becoming scarce.



Hartville tool only lists a 7/16", also. Strange, eh?

AND not all Colt brad point bits are created equally, the 5 Star are
much cleaner cutting.

I do have Forstner bits but really could tell no difference in making
the holes for the wine bottle stopper holders.

Aren't wine bottle stopper holders called "wine bottles"?


That too. ;~)

On Sun, 21 Feb 2021 11:43:38 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/20/2021 6:55 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 20 Feb 2021 15:00:59 -0800 (PST), Bob D
wrote:

On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 9:12:37 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Feb 2021 09:44:31 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 7:21 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 16:54:46 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 4:03 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:47:02 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 11:24 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.



That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a
larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact
spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

But a smaller bit defeats the purpose of the brad. If you have to
drill at an angle, use a Forstner bit. ...or just use a twist drill
and be done with it.



The small bit was for alignment only. The spurs on the 1/2" brad point
bit cut into the wood, at an angle, very much like a Forstner bit. The
bottles being drilled sat in a cradle.

But if the brads touch the wood before the pin, a pilot hole isn't
going to do a thing. The pin won't do anything either. Might just as
well use a twist drill.

With a 1/2" bit no deflection so no pilot hole needed. A regular bit
will not cut as cleanly at the entry point as a brad point bit.



Also, there are only two brads so the bit will tend to "walk". A
Forstner but won't "walk". A Forstner is a better choice.


And yet, I had no issue with the bit doing anything but go straight down
and into the wood. The spurs were cutting cleanly before the brad
point. Like a Forstner bit.

I will say however that I was using the Colt 5 Star brad point bit.
Those bits 1/4" and larger, cut through a piece of wood with no backer
board and do not tear out on the back side when the bit goes through.
Since Colts are no longer available, I had to settle for Fisch. I do
have a few Colts but sets weren't available even several years ago.
I'd still rather use a Forstner for off-axis holes.

I use Lee Valley HSS brad point bits and Freud carbide forstners. I find them to be equal for clean cutting and not walking. Actually the Lee valley bits have a superior point. They are kind of surgical in nature.

All else being equal, steel will take a better edge than carbide. It
just won't keep it as long.



The results deeply depend on the material. was doing plunge cuts,
through 3/8" thick Ipe, with a 3/8" carbide router bit. These cuts were
1.5" long. A carbide router bit would last me approximately 300", and
200 plunges before needing to be resharpened.

I neighbor suggested and brought me a HSS end mill bit of the same size.
I used it for the same function and never wore it enough to need to be
resharpened or replacement.

In this case comparing new carbide to new HHS end mill bit, the end mill
bits stayed sharp an undetermined amount of time longer.

Is that the steel or the shape of the pointy end? Some of the up/down
cut solid-carbide spirals have a pretty decent cutter on the end. Your
Shaper should have similar bits.

On 2/21/2021 4:29 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2021 11:43:38 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/20/2021 6:55 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 20 Feb 2021 15:00:59 -0800 (PST), Bob D
wrote:

On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 9:12:37 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Feb 2021 09:44:31 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 7:21 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 16:54:46 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 4:03 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2021 11:47:02 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/18/2021 11:24 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes:
On 2/16/2021 6:18 PM, Bob D wrote:
Has anyone used a Wixey laser cross hair adaptor for a drill press? I can buy one at Rockler for $37.50 or buy a new powermatic drill press for $1500 or do nothing.

Bob



My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I
would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as
using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your
pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line
things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.



That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a
larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact
spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

But a smaller bit defeats the purpose of the brad. If you have to
drill at an angle, use a Forstner bit. ...or just use a twist drill
and be done with it.



The small bit was for alignment only. The spurs on the 1/2" brad point
bit cut into the wood, at an angle, very much like a Forstner bit. The
bottles being drilled sat in a cradle.

But if the brads touch the wood before the pin, a pilot hole isn't
going to do a thing. The pin won't do anything either. Might just as
well use a twist drill.

With a 1/2" bit no deflection so no pilot hole needed. A regular bit
will not cut as cleanly at the entry point as a brad point bit.



Also, there are only two brads so the bit will tend to "walk". A
Forstner but won't "walk". A Forstner is a better choice.


And yet, I had no issue with the bit doing anything but go straight down
and into the wood. The spurs were cutting cleanly before the brad
point. Like a Forstner bit.

I will say however that I was using the Colt 5 Star brad point bit.
Those bits 1/4" and larger, cut through a piece of wood with no backer
board and do not tear out on the back side when the bit goes through.
Since Colts are no longer available, I had to settle for Fisch. I do
have a few Colts but sets weren't available even several years ago.
I'd still rather use a Forstner for off-axis holes.

I use Lee Valley HSS brad point bits and Freud carbide forstners. I find them to be equal for clean cutting and not walking. Actually the Lee valley bits have a superior point. They are kind of surgical in nature.

All else being equal, steel will take a better edge than carbide. It
just won't keep it as long.



The results deeply depend on the material. was doing plunge cuts,
through 3/8" thick Ipe, with a 3/8" carbide router bit. These cuts were
1.5" long. A carbide router bit would last me approximately 300", and
200 plunges before needing to be resharpened.

I neighbor suggested and brought me a HSS end mill bit of the same size.
I used it for the same function and never wore it enough to need to be
resharpened or replacement.

In this case comparing new carbide to new HHS end mill bit, the end mill
bits stayed sharp an undetermined amount of time longer.

Is that the steel or the shape of the pointy end? Some of the up/down
cut solid-carbide spirals have a pretty decent cutter on the end. Your
Shaper should have similar bits.


Neither end is pointy, both were/are flat bottom cutting if not plunging.

Yes, I use the solid carbide 2 flute flat bottom bits for most operations.

And the original is holding up well. But it has not yet seen the abuse
of the the end mill bit mentioned above. AND FWIW the end mill bits are
way less expensive than solid carbide bits.