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#11
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On Thursday, November 26, 2020 at 9:15:11 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 26, 2020 at 3:42:55 AM UTC-5, Just Wondering wrote: On 11/25/2020 6:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Wednesday, November 25, 2020 at 7:36:51 PM UTC-5, Just Wondering wrote: On 11/25/2020 2:13 PM, swalker wrote: I need to replace a set of steps that have a rise of 25" and a width of 53". The stairs land on a sloped concrete carport and the slope across the 53" is 2 inches. How do I approach this? The current stairs have 3 steps and then a small step to the porch. Totally unacceptable and dangerous. Thanks for any advice. The World Wide Web is your friend. How to Build Stairs https://www.wikihow.com/Build-Stairs How To Build Stairs in 3 Easy Steps https://www.popularmechanics.com/hom...-build-stairs/ Stair Calculator https://concalculator.com/stair-calculator/ Which one of them explained how to deal with the sloped floor? I assume you would measure/cut the risers so that the bottom tread would give the right stair rise where the staircase meets the floor, and cut the bottom of the stringer to match the slope. swalker said: "I need to replace a set of steps that have a rise of 25" and a width of 53". The stairs land on a sloped concrete carport and the slope across the 53" is 2 inches." Cutting the bottom of the stringer to match the slope is a given. It's the *rise* of the first step that is the real issue here. As my grandfather used to say "The feet remember." That's why, ideally, we want the rise of each step to be the same. In this situation the rise of the first step cannot be even across the 53" because the floor is sloped. A typical set of stairs with a 25" rise and a 10" step run (tread depth) would use a step rise of 6.25". (That may result in too much run for the OP's situation, but that doesn't matter for the explanation of the general concept.) 53" is a wide staircase and we don't know where that 25" rise was measured. So using a rise of 6.25", we now need to account for the 2" slope of the floor. If the 25" rise was measured at the center of the steps, then one end of the first step would need to use a 5.25" rise and the other would need to use 7.25". (Level step, unlevel floor) If the 25" rise was measured at either end of the 53", then the opposite end of the first step would need a rise of either 8.25" or 4.25". Bottom line is that the bottom step needs to be level but since the floor is sloped, the rise can not be the same across the 53". Now let's bring in the users. Where will those users walk on the steps most of the time? If they will usually use the middle of the steps, then the middle of the first step should use the 6.25" rise and let the ends be higher and lower. That way, the rise will *usually* be the same for the users for all steps. If the users will usually walk up either the left or right of the stairs, then use the 6.25" rise on that side and let the other end be higher or lower depending on which direction the slope runs. In this situation, where the slope of the floor forces an uneven rise across the first step, the next best thing is to set the rise to be consistent in the area where the stairs will be used the most. ....or level the floor at the bottom of the stairs and let the floor itself slope away from the stairs in gentle manner over a long-ish distance. |
#12
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DerbyDad03 on Thu, 26 Nov 2020 06:59:42 -0800
(PST) typed in rec.woodworking the following: On Thursday, November 26, 2020 at 9:15:11 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Thursday, November 26, 2020 at 3:42:55 AM UTC-5, Just Wondering wrote: On 11/25/2020 6:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Wednesday, November 25, 2020 at 7:36:51 PM UTC-5, Just Wondering wrote: On 11/25/2020 2:13 PM, swalker wrote: I need to replace a set of steps that have a rise of 25" and a width of 53". The stairs land on a sloped concrete carport and the slope across the 53" is 2 inches. How do I approach this? The current stairs have 3 steps and then a small step to the porch. Totally unacceptable and dangerous. Thanks for any advice. The World Wide Web is your friend. How to Build Stairs https://www.wikihow.com/Build-Stairs How To Build Stairs in 3 Easy Steps https://www.popularmechanics.com/hom...-build-stairs/ Stair Calculator https://concalculator.com/stair-calculator/ Which one of them explained how to deal with the sloped floor? I assume you would measure/cut the risers so that the bottom tread would give the right stair rise where the staircase meets the floor, and cut the bottom of the stringer to match the slope. swalker said: "I need to replace a set of steps that have a rise of 25" and a width of 53". The stairs land on a sloped concrete carport and the slope across the 53" is 2 inches." Cutting the bottom of the stringer to match the slope is a given. It's the *rise* of the first step that is the real issue here. As my grandfather used to say "The feet remember." That's why, ideally, we want the rise of each step to be the same. In this situation the rise of the first step cannot be even across the 53" because the floor is sloped. A typical set of stairs with a 25" rise and a 10" step run (tread depth) would use a step rise of 6.25". (That may result in too much run for the OP's situation, but that doesn't matter for the explanation of the general concept.) 53" is a wide staircase and we don't know where that 25" rise was measured. So using a rise of 6.25", we now need to account for the 2" slope of the floor. If the 25" rise was measured at the center of the steps, then one end of the first step would need to use a 5.25" rise and the other would need to use 7.25". (Level step, unlevel floor) If the 25" rise was measured at either end of the 53", then the opposite end of the first step would need a rise of either 8.25" or 4.25". Bottom line is that the bottom step needs to be level but since the floor is sloped, the rise can not be the same across the 53". Now let's bring in the users. Where will those users walk on the steps most of the time? If they will usually use the middle of the steps, then the middle of the first step should use the 6.25" rise and let the ends be higher and lower. That way, the rise will *usually* be the same for the users for all steps. If the users will usually walk up either the left or right of the stairs, then use the 6.25" rise on that side and let the other end be higher or lower depending on which direction the slope runs. In this situation, where the slope of the floor forces an uneven rise across the first step, the next best thing is to set the rise to be consistent in the area where the stairs will be used the most. ...or level the floor at the bottom of the stairs and let the floor itself slope away from the stairs in gentle manner over a long-ish distance. What he said. There are two options: either the bottom riser is "off" and uneven at the sides, or you make a landing/platform which is level, and all the stairs are the same height going up. Yes, the later option means that you have a landing which varies from [thickness of landing boards] to 2" + [thickness of landing boards]. Your other option is to replace the carport slab with one which doesn't slope. Or just cut out the area at the bottom and make a flat and level space for the staircase. -- pyotr filipivich Next month's Panel: Graft - Boon or blessing? |
#13
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DerbyDad03 on Wed, 25 Nov 2020 16:32:58 -0800
(PST) typed in rec.woodworking the following: On Wednesday, November 25, 2020 at 6:45:51 PM UTC-5, pyotr filipivich wrote: swalker on Wed, 25 Nov 2020 15:13:34 -0600 typed in rec.woodworking the following: I need to replace a set of steps that have a rise of 25" and a width of 53". The stairs land on a sloped concrete carport and the slope across the 53" is 2 inches. How do I approach this? The current stairs have 3 steps and then a small step to the porch. Totally unacceptable and dangerous. Thanks for any advice. Make any risers supports come out even. Better to have four "short" steps, or three "long" ones. If the steps are not able to meet the concrete "square" (that is there is a slope left to right as you face the stairs), you might want to just put a landing on the concrete and work to that. Either the first step will not have an even rise or the platform will not have an even rise. If you insist on having steps of a rise of 6 inches, you will have a sneaker step which is too tall or too short. A tripping hazard. My suggestion is to make a landing at the bottom which is level on the top, with one side resting on the concrete and the other side is supported two inches above the concrete. Measure from the top of that landing to where the steps end. I.e, 25 - 1.25 (assuming 5/4 ply for the landing = 23.75" Divide that by 3,4,5,6, or however many steps you want to have. Now you have your rise (7.9166, 5.9375", 4.75", 3.9583" respectively), Layout your risers accordingly. I'd go for five steps, and do not forget to allow for the thickness of the top step. What's the point of the platform? to provide a flat, level landing on the sloped slab. It will be safer than having a "odd" riser. As the saying goes "the feet remember" - a step which is off is a tripping hazard. You could replace the slab, or put in a concrete landing so that people will not be stepping down a different distance depending on which side of the stairs they come down. -- pyotr filipivich Next month's Panel: Graft - Boon or blessing? |
#14
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On 11/26/2020 11:04 AM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
DerbyDad03 on Wed, 25 Nov 2020 16:32:58 -0800 .... What's the point of the platform? to provide a flat, level landing on the sloped slab. It will be safer than having a "odd" riser. As the saying goes "the feet remember" - a step which is off is a tripping hazard. You could replace the slab, or put in a concrete landing so that people will not be stepping down a different distance depending on which side of the stairs they come down. +1 An tapered edge there instead of a square corner would also help as would a hazard indicator like a colored section to highlight the discontinuity. Sounds as though the slab should have been poured initially with two grades; if were new construction I'd at least consider to go back to the builder for redress... Trying to minimize the tread height difference from one side to another is better than nothing, certainly. -- |
#15
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On Thursday, November 26, 2020 at 12:02:58 PM UTC-5, pyotr filipivich wrote:
DerbyDad03 on Wed, 25 Nov 2020 16:32:58 -0800 (PST) typed in rec.woodworking the following: On Wednesday, November 25, 2020 at 6:45:51 PM UTC-5, pyotr filipivich wrote: swalker on Wed, 25 Nov 2020 15:13:34 -0600 typed in rec.woodworking the following: I need to replace a set of steps that have a rise of 25" and a width of 53". The stairs land on a sloped concrete carport and the slope across the 53" is 2 inches. How do I approach this? The current stairs have 3 steps and then a small step to the porch. Totally unacceptable and dangerous. Thanks for any advice. Make any risers supports come out even. Better to have four "short" steps, or three "long" ones. If the steps are not able to meet the concrete "square" (that is there is a slope left to right as you face the stairs), you might want to just put a landing on the concrete and work to that. Either the first step will not have an even rise or the platform will not have an even rise. If you insist on having steps of a rise of 6 inches, you will have a sneaker step which is too tall or too short. A tripping hazard. My suggestion is to make a landing at the bottom which is level on the top, with one side resting on the concrete and the other side is supported two inches above the concrete. Measure from the top of that landing to where the steps end. I.e, 25 - 1.25 (assuming 5/4 ply for the landing = 23.75" Divide that by 3,4,5,6, or however many steps you want to have. Now you have your rise (7.9166, 5.9375", 4.75", 3.9583" respectively), Layout your risers accordingly. I'd go for five steps, and do not forget to allow for the thickness of the top step. What's the point of the platform? to provide a flat, level landing on the sloped slab. It will be safer than having a "odd" riser. As the saying goes "the feet remember" - a step which is off is a tripping hazard. You could replace the slab, or put in a concrete landing so that people will not be stepping down a different distance depending on which side of the stairs they come down. As far as I can tell, all you did was move the uneven rise to outboard edge of the platform, while at the same time extending the run of the overall structure. That might work, assuming that there is room for the extended run into the carport. If the platform is long enough, like 2 or 3 paces, then the uneven rise might not be an issue. The feet will have forgotten (to some extent) the rise of the actual steps. However, if the platform is too short, then it basically becomes an extra step with an uneven rise. The available space for the run is what will ultimately determine the best method. |
#16
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On Thursday, November 26, 2020 at 12:39:38 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 11/26/2020 11:04 AM, pyotr filipivich wrote: DerbyDad03 on Wed, 25 Nov 2020 16:32:58 -0800 ... What's the point of the platform? to provide a flat, level landing on the sloped slab. It will be safer than having a "odd" riser. As the saying goes "the feet remember" - a step which is off is a tripping hazard. You could replace the slab, or put in a concrete landing so that people will not be stepping down a different distance depending on which side of the stairs they come down. +1 An tapered edge there instead of a square corner would also help as would a hazard indicator like a colored section to highlight the discontinuity. Sounds as though the slab should have been poured initially with two grades; if were new construction I'd at least consider to go back to the builder for redress... Trying to minimize the tread height difference from one side to another is better than nothing, certainly. -- One of my earlier suggestions was to pour a level landing and then let the "pad" gradually slope away from the bottom step. While that would extend the run in a certain manner, a poured slab could be driven/parked on, which a wooden platform would prevent. It would really help if we knew if there was an issue with having available room for a longer run. For all we know, the reason that there is currently "3 steps and then a small step to the porch" could be because of limited space for the run of the stairs. Pictures might help too. |
#17
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On 11/26/2020 11:59 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 26, 2020 at 12:39:38 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote: On 11/26/2020 11:04 AM, pyotr filipivich wrote: DerbyDad03 on Wed, 25 Nov 2020 16:32:58 -0800 ... What's the point of the platform? to provide a flat, level landing on the sloped slab. It will be safer than having a "odd" riser. As the saying goes "the feet remember" - a step which is off is a tripping hazard. You could replace the slab, or put in a concrete landing so that people will not be stepping down a different distance depending on which side of the stairs they come down. +1 An tapered edge there instead of a square corner would also help as would a hazard indicator like a colored section to highlight the discontinuity. Sounds as though the slab should have been poured initially with two grades; if were new construction I'd at least consider to go back to the builder for redress... Trying to minimize the tread height difference from one side to another is better than nothing, certainly. -- One of my earlier suggestions was to pour a level landing and then let the "pad" gradually slope away from the bottom step. But later than this one... While that would extend the run in a certain manner, a poured slab could be driven/parked on, which a wooden platform would prevent. Not necessarily, no. It would really help if we knew if there was an issue with having available room for a longer run. For all we know, the reason that there is currently "3 steps and then a small step to the porch" could be because of limited space for the run of the stairs. "The stairs land on a sloped concrete carport..." -- |
#18
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On Thursday, November 26, 2020 at 2:02:45 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 11/26/2020 11:59 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Thursday, November 26, 2020 at 12:39:38 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote: On 11/26/2020 11:04 AM, pyotr filipivich wrote: DerbyDad03 on Wed, 25 Nov 2020 16:32:58 -0800 ... What's the point of the platform? to provide a flat, level landing on the sloped slab. It will be safer than having a "odd" riser. As the saying goes "the feet remember" - a step which is off is a tripping hazard. You could replace the slab, or put in a concrete landing so that people will not be stepping down a different distance depending on which side of the stairs they come down. +1 An tapered edge there instead of a square corner would also help as would a hazard indicator like a colored section to highlight the discontinuity. Sounds as though the slab should have been poured initially with two grades; if were new construction I'd at least consider to go back to the builder for redress... Trying to minimize the tread height difference from one side to another is better than nothing, certainly. -- One of my earlier suggestions was to pour a level landing and then let the "pad" gradually slope away from the bottom step. But later than this one... The time stamp on my "let the floor itself slope away from the stairs in gentle manner" shows 9:59AM. While that would extend the run in a certain manner, a poured slab could be driven/parked on, which a wooden platform would prevent. Not necessarily, no. Not necessarily, true. As I've said multiple times, we don't know enough about the layout of the carport to know if that would work. It would really help if we knew if there was an issue with having available room for a longer run. For all we know, the reason that there is currently "3 steps and then a small step to the porch" could be because of limited space for the run of the stairs. "The stairs land on a sloped concrete carport..." Yep...that's basically what all of these posts have been trying to address. |
#19
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On Wed, 25 Nov 2020 15:13:34 -0600, swalker wrote:
I need to replace a set of steps that have a rise of 25" and a width of 53". The stairs land on a sloped concrete carport and the slope across the 53" is 2 inches. How do I approach this? The current stairs have 3 steps and then a small step to the porch. Totally unacceptable and dangerous. Thanks for any advice. After reading all the options offered I think the one that would work best for me is to place the 1st step on the concrete at the high end, which is left when viewed from the bottom, level it and work up from there. Traffic on the steps goes up toward the right side where the hand rail is. Thanks for all the advice and options. |
#20
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On 11/26/2020 2:27 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 26, 2020 at 2:02:45 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote: On 11/26/2020 11:59 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Thursday, November 26, 2020 at 12:39:38 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote: On 11/26/2020 11:04 AM, pyotr filipivich wrote: DerbyDad03 on Wed, 25 Nov 2020 16:32:58 -0800 ... What's the point of the platform? to provide a flat, level landing on the sloped slab. It will be safer than having a "odd" riser. As the saying goes "the feet remember" - a step which is off is a tripping hazard. You could replace the slab, or put in a concrete landing so that people will not be stepping down a different distance depending on which side of the stairs they come down. +1 An tapered edge there instead of a square corner would also help as would a hazard indicator like a colored section to highlight the discontinuity. Sounds as though the slab should have been poured initially with two grades; if were new construction I'd at least consider to go back to the builder for redress... Trying to minimize the tread height difference from one side to another is better than nothing, certainly. -- One of my earlier suggestions was to pour a level landing and then let the "pad" gradually slope away from the bottom step. But later than this one... The time stamp on my "let the floor itself slope away from the stairs in gentle manner" shows 9:59AM. Yeah, and this subthread began yestidday... While that would extend the run in a certain manner, a poured slab could be driven/parked on, which a wooden platform would prevent. Not necessarily, no. Not necessarily, true. As I've said multiple times, we don't know enough about the layout of the carport to know if that would work. .... If you can put a slab there to drive on, I garontee I can do it with wood. You've only got 2" to make up -- a tubax and half-inch ply makes the height and certainly can be driven on/over. -- |
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