The parting bead that separates the 2 sashes in an old window needs to be
replaced. The wood itself is a stock item, but it needs to be grooved to
accept the zink knife edge flashing. The upper half would be grooved on the
outside, the lower half on the inside. These grooves are considerably
narrower than the kerf on my table saw blade. What is the best way to make
them?

Thanks,

Henry

slot cutter and a router table?
and lots of carefull?

On Tue, 07 Sep 2004 19:07:44 GMT, "news.verizon.net"
wrote:

The parting bead that separates the 2 sashes in an old window needs to be
replaced. The wood itself is a stock item, but it needs to be grooved to
accept the zink knife edge flashing. The upper half would be grooved on the
outside, the lower half on the inside. These grooves are considerably
narrower than the kerf on my table saw blade. What is the best way to make
them?

Thanks,

Henry




wing cutter type slitter on the router table.

news.verizon.net"

wrt groving parting bead

A hand method would be some form of scratch stock. E. g.
Take a stick of hardwood, one by one by eight inches or so. Rip 2/3 of it to
1/2 in. and crosscut that off. The shoulder just made will be the fence that
runs along the side of the bead. Make a steel cutter that you set through the
1/2 in section left, set in centered at 1/2 the width of the bead to be
scratched. The cutter could be the shaped (file, grind) end of a six penny
nail, or some carbon steel--shank of an Allen key, maybe, for examples. Hammer
flatten the cutter first. That will get you an easier piece to final shape.
Tap that in (drill an undersized starter hole) just deep enough so that it is
proud of the stock the same depth you want for your bead slit.
Run it along the bead--which you may have to support on a runner attached to
the bench, don't know, enough times to make the full depth of slit that the
scratch stock allows.
There are variations.
Frank Morrison

Fdmorrison wrote:

news.verizon.net"

wrt groving parting bead

A hand method would be some form of scratch stock. E. g.
Take a stick of hardwood, one by one by eight inches or so. Rip 2/3 of it to
1/2 in. and crosscut that off. The shoulder just made will be the fence that
runs along the side of the bead. Make a steel cutter that you set through the
1/2 in section left, set in centered at 1/2 the width of the bead to be
scratched. The cutter could be the shaped (file, grind) end of a six penny
nail, or some carbon steel--shank of an Allen key, maybe, for examples. Hammer
flatten the cutter first. That will get you an easier piece to final shape.
Tap that in (drill an undersized starter hole) just deep enough so that it is
proud of the stock the same depth you want for your bead slit.
Run it along the bead--which you may have to support on a runner attached to
the bench, don't know, enough times to make the full depth of slit that the
scratch stock allows.
There are variations.

Good advice. My own variation is to take a newish Stanley wooden
marking gage (should cost about $10 at the hardware store) and convert
that to a scratch stock. Back out the pin from the arm, rip a vertical
slot in the arm, drill one hole horizontally all the way through the
arm/slot (near the end of the beam/arm) and drill one halfway through
(further back on the arm).

Then take some scraper stock, cut a small piece off and shape to the
desired contour (chainsaw files are handy for this). Put that piece in
the slot, and fix it in place with a flat-bottomed machine screw sized
to the hole you drilled. Take another machine screw and a nut, and use
them in the through-hole near the end of the arm, to hold the kerf closed.

Presto, you have a scratch stock with an adjustable fence. You can
make any profile your heart desires from leftover scraper stock.


Chuck Vance

"news.verizon.net" wrote in message news:4Gn%c.3463$Gi5.865@trndny05...
The parting bead that separates the 2 sashes in an old window needs to be
replaced. The wood itself is a stock item, but it needs to be grooved to
accept the zink knife edge flashing. The upper half would be grooved on the
outside, the lower half on the inside. These grooves are considerably
narrower than the kerf on my table saw blade. What is the best way to make
them?

Thanks,

Henry

Don't use the zink flashing. Install the parting bead and paint the
edges.The original parting bead was grooved with a wheel knife in a
tablesaw. If you must use the flashing, saw it by hand with a veneer
saw or the extremely thin hobby saws found at craft stores.
mike

The parting bead that separates the 2 sashes in an old window needs to be
replaced. The wood itself is a stock item, but it needs to be grooved to
accept the zink knife edge flashing. The upper half would be grooved on the
outside, the lower half on the inside. These grooves are considerably
narrower than the kerf on my table saw blade. What is the best way to make
them?

Thanks,

Henry

Just buy a thin-kerf 51/2" circular
saw blade with a 5/8" arbor hole, the
kerf works for plastic strips, it's about
1/16"