![]() |
Hardwood floors and felt?
It is recommended that 3# felt be placed under wood flooring as it is
layed. What is the purpose of that? or "multi" purpose of that? I have torn older floors up before that did not have any underlayment (just subfloor). Were those floors installed incorrectly? or is felt a new thing? LP |
I meant 30lb. felt not 3. D'oh.
|
"MyOwnPlanet" wrote in message om... It is recommended that 3# felt be placed under wood flooring as it is layed. What is the purpose of that? or "multi" purpose of that? I have torn older floors up before that did not have any underlayment (just subfloor). Were those floors installed incorrectly? or is felt a new thing? Installing 3/4 t&g hardwood flooring over kraft paper directly over the subfloor (no underlayment) has always been the norm in my neck of the woods. The kraft paper is a water resistant membrane. I think it's the same stuff that goes over insulation only it comes in rolls. I'm sure the 30# felt would do the same but is prolly more expensive and overkill. IMHO of course. SH |
"Slowhand" I'm@work wrote in :
"MyOwnPlanet" wrote in message om... It is recommended that 3# felt be placed under wood flooring as it is layed. What is the purpose of that? or "multi" purpose of that? I have torn older floors up before that did not have any underlayment (just subfloor). Were those floors installed incorrectly? or is felt a new thing? Installing 3/4 t&g hardwood flooring over kraft paper directly over the subfloor (no underlayment) has always been the norm in my neck of the woods. The kraft paper is a water resistant membrane. I think it's the same stuff that goes over insulation only it comes in rolls. I'm sure the 30# felt would do the same but is prolly more expensive and overkill. IMHO of course. SH The paper has a few reasons for being there but the two main reasons benefit the installer. One is it's easier to see your lines when you're marking the joist (all installers don't mark / nail the joist but whenever possible it should be done). Two is that it makes it alot easier to kick the pieces into place - the flooring moves easier on paper than bare subfloor. As for it being a moisture barrier, it doesn't hurt but there are much more effective moisture barriers. Adam |
On 4 Sep 2004 10:38:08 -0700,
(MyOwnPlanet) calmly ranted: I meant 30lb. felt not 3. D'oh. Oh, roofing tarpaper, eh? I thought you meant hat fabric. ================================================== ======== CAUTION: Do NOT look directly into laser with remaining eyeball! ================================================== ======== http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design |
The Real reason it is there, whether it be kraft paper, red rosin paper, or
felt paper is to eliminate squeaks. It simply creates a barrier between flooring and subfloor to eliminate wood rubbing against wood. Any one of the products listed above serve the same purpose equally well. There is no need for a moisture barrier, and none of these products are meant for that purpose on a floor. The papers listed above are all close to each other in price, and are similar in installation with felt paper being somewhat more difficult simply because it is thicker, and the creosote gets on your hands. "Adam" wrote in message ... "Slowhand" I'm@work wrote in : "MyOwnPlanet" wrote in message om... It is recommended that 3# felt be placed under wood flooring as it is layed. What is the purpose of that? or "multi" purpose of that? I have torn older floors up before that did not have any underlayment (just subfloor). Were those floors installed incorrectly? or is felt a new thing? Installing 3/4 t&g hardwood flooring over kraft paper directly over the subfloor (no underlayment) has always been the norm in my neck of the woods. The kraft paper is a water resistant membrane. I think it's the same stuff that goes over insulation only it comes in rolls. I'm sure the 30# felt would do the same but is prolly more expensive and overkill. IMHO of course. SH The paper has a few reasons for being there but the two main reasons benefit the installer. One is it's easier to see your lines when you're marking the joist (all installers don't mark / nail the joist but whenever possible it should be done). Two is that it makes it alot easier to kick the pieces into place - the flooring moves easier on paper than bare subfloor. As for it being a moisture barrier, it doesn't hurt but there are much more effective moisture barriers. Adam |
|
Yeah, what he said. The main reason is to minimize/eliminate squeaking
between the 2 wood surfaces. Mark L. Dave jackson wrote: The Real reason it is there, whether it be kraft paper, red rosin paper, or felt paper is to eliminate squeaks. It simply creates a barrier between flooring and subfloor to eliminate wood rubbing against wood. Any one of the products listed above serve the same purpose equally well. There is no need for a moisture barrier, and none of these products are meant for that purpose on a floor. The papers listed above are all close to each other in price, and are similar in installation with felt paper being somewhat more difficult simply because it is thicker, and the creosote gets on your hands. "Adam" wrote in message ... |
"You were the person installing the recycled maple, right? How's is
going with reducing the musty odor?" Yes, that would be me. Things are going great, fixed the musty thing. I have no regrets getting this wood - it has immense "history" and will work well with my philosophy in life :) |
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 03:01 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter