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-   -   Delta contractor blade hits insert (https://www.diybanter.com/woodworking/67168-delta-contractor-blade-hits-insert.html)

Rich Durkee August 30th 04 02:08 AM

Delta contractor blade hits insert
 
For the first time since I bought the Delta Contractors saw a year ago
I am trying to cut a 45 degree mitre in the ends of the jewelry box
sides. However when I tilt the blade to 45 degrees, the blade hits on
the insert. I noticed that when the blade is at 90 degrees the blade
is not centered in the slot in the insert, but I don't see where there
is anything I can do to move it over to the left a little bit. At 45
the blade doesn't hit by much but definitely hits. Don't see anything
in the manual about an auxiliary insert for cutting 45s so I what's
the problem?

Rich Durkee

Doug Miller August 30th 04 02:15 AM

In article , (Rich Durkee) wrote:
For the first time since I bought the Delta Contractors saw a year ago
I am trying to cut a 45 degree mitre in the ends of the jewelry box
sides. However when I tilt the blade to 45 degrees, the blade hits on
the insert. I noticed that when the blade is at 90 degrees the blade
is not centered in the slot in the insert, but I don't see where there
is anything I can do to move it over to the left a little bit. At 45
the blade doesn't hit by much but definitely hits. Don't see anything
in the manual about an auxiliary insert for cutting 45s so I what's
the problem?


If you're using a blade stabilizer, you have it on the wrong side of the
blade. If you're not using a stabilizer, I'm stumped -- misalignment, maybe?

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

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Leon August 30th 04 02:15 AM

The trunnion needs to be moved over so that the blade will clear the insert.
OR you can use a file and widen the slot so that the blade does not hit. If
your saw is doing a great job at providing smooth cuts when ripping, I would
make the slot wider. If the results of your cuts could use some improvement
I would move the trunnion and realign the blade parallel with the miter
slot. The later being the correct way to fix the problem.


"Rich Durkee" wrote in message
om...
For the first time since I bought the Delta Contractors saw a year ago
I am trying to cut a 45 degree mitre in the ends of the jewelry box
sides. However when I tilt the blade to 45 degrees, the blade hits on
the insert. I noticed that when the blade is at 90 degrees the blade
is not centered in the slot in the insert, but I don't see where there
is anything I can do to move it over to the left a little bit. At 45
the blade doesn't hit by much but definitely hits. Don't see anything
in the manual about an auxiliary insert for cutting 45s so I what's
the problem?

Rich Durkee




My Old Tools August 30th 04 03:04 AM

Contractors saws have the trunion attached to the underside of the table,
usually 4 bolts. Loosen the 4 bolts and shift the trunion in the
appropriate direction, then make sure the blade is parallel to the miter
slots. In some cases, the bolt holes don't have enough slop to get it
centered. In that case, call Delta if it's new, or get out the file if it's
not.

--
Ross
www.myoldtools.com
"Rich Durkee" wrote in message
om...
For the first time since I bought the Delta Contractors saw a year ago
I am trying to cut a 45 degree mitre in the ends of the jewelry box
sides. However when I tilt the blade to 45 degrees, the blade hits on
the insert. I noticed that when the blade is at 90 degrees the blade
is not centered in the slot in the insert, but I don't see where there
is anything I can do to move it over to the left a little bit. At 45
the blade doesn't hit by much but definitely hits. Don't see anything
in the manual about an auxiliary insert for cutting 45s so I what's
the problem?

Rich Durkee




patriarch August 30th 04 06:00 AM

"My Old Tools" wrote in
:

Contractors saws have the trunion attached to the underside of the
table, usually 4 bolts. Loosen the 4 bolts and shift the trunion in
the appropriate direction, then make sure the blade is parallel to the
miter slots. In some cases, the bolt holes don't have enough slop to
get it centered. In that case, call Delta if it's new, or get out the
file if it's not.


Ross & Leon make good points.

I'd do the trimming on a home built insert, or a cheap, replacement insert
from a dealer, rather than the original, should you choose that route.

In fact, a zero-clearance, or near-zero clearance insert is often a pretty
good addition, if you provide a splitter option.

Patriarch

Wilson August 30th 04 04:44 PM

Is the off center condition such that turning the insert around would give
the clearance you need?

Someone mentioned stabilizers. Obviously tou could use a stabilizer and/or
a washer to move the blade a bit to get clearance.
Wilson


"Doug Miller" wrote in message
. ..
In article ,

(Rich Durkee) wrote:
For the first time since I bought the Delta Contractors saw a year ago
I am trying to cut a 45 degree mitre in the ends of the jewelry box
sides. However when I tilt the blade to 45 degrees, the blade hits on
the insert. I noticed that when the blade is at 90 degrees the blade
is not centered in the slot in the insert, but I don't see where there
is anything I can do to move it over to the left a little bit. At 45
the blade doesn't hit by much but definitely hits. Don't see anything
in the manual about an auxiliary insert for cutting 45s so I what's
the problem?


If you're using a blade stabilizer, you have it on the wrong side of the
blade. If you're not using a stabilizer, I'm stumped -- misalignment,

maybe?

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.





Robert Galloway August 30th 04 05:44 PM

Your trunions may have enough room to allow you to center the blade or
at least move away from the insert enough that it doesn't contact. If
everything else is spot on, parallel to the miter gauge slots and so
forth, I'd just make a custom, zero clearance insert out of hardwood. I
haven't had the stock insert in my contractor's saw in years. I kid
myself that an insert for the dado head that has a slot cut by the dado
I'm using gives less fuzz/tearout on the underside of the work. Does
seem that way, though.

bob g.

Rich Durkee wrote:

For the first time since I bought the Delta Contractors saw a year ago
I am trying to cut a 45 degree mitre in the ends of the jewelry box
sides. However when I tilt the blade to 45 degrees, the blade hits on
the insert. I noticed that when the blade is at 90 degrees the blade
is not centered in the slot in the insert, but I don't see where there
is anything I can do to move it over to the left a little bit. At 45
the blade doesn't hit by much but definitely hits. Don't see anything
in the manual about an auxiliary insert for cutting 45s so I what's
the problem?

Rich Durkee



Mike Pio August 30th 04 07:48 PM

This happened to me out of the box with mine. I got lucky and could move
the bolts as described in another post here. In fact, I couldn't tilt my
blade to 45 until I made this adjustment or the insert would have gone
flying at my face. Not good...

"Rich Durkee" wrote in message
om...
For the first time since I bought the Delta Contractors saw a year ago
I am trying to cut a 45 degree mitre in the ends of the jewelry box
sides. However when I tilt the blade to 45 degrees, the blade hits on
the insert. I noticed that when the blade is at 90 degrees the blade
is not centered in the slot in the insert, but I don't see where there
is anything I can do to move it over to the left a little bit. At 45
the blade doesn't hit by much but definitely hits. Don't see anything
in the manual about an auxiliary insert for cutting 45s so I what's
the problem?

Rich Durkee




DIYGUY August 31st 04 03:22 AM

I had the identical problem with my five year old Delta CS. Solved it
by using the Delta insert made for dado blades. Needed one of these
anyway so it was not a big deal.

I don't know how you would make a zero-clearance insert for 45 degrees.
The problem I see is that the usual process for making the insert calls
for raising the spinning blade up through the insert while it is held
down by the fence. If you try this with the blade set at an angle two
bad things are going to happen. The first is obvious and that is the
entry cut into in the insert will not be zero clearance because raising
the blade vertically will chew up the bottom of the insert and then exit
the top leaving a larger opening than zero clearance. The second one is
really bad and this is that if you use the fence to hold down the insert
you must be sure to put it on the side opposite the blade direction and
there just may not be enough "bite" on this narrower side to keep the
insert clamped in place. I suppose there are other ways to keep the
insert immobile but overall I just cannot see this as practical. Anyone
else care to chime in here?

Rich Durkee wrote:
For the first time since I bought the Delta Contractors saw a year ago
I am trying to cut a 45 degree mitre in the ends of the jewelry box
sides. However when I tilt the blade to 45 degrees, the blade hits on
the insert. I noticed that when the blade is at 90 degrees the blade
is not centered in the slot in the insert, but I don't see where there
is anything I can do to move it over to the left a little bit. At 45
the blade doesn't hit by much but definitely hits. Don't see anything
in the manual about an auxiliary insert for cutting 45s so I what's
the problem?

Rich Durkee



[email protected] August 31st 04 04:31 AM

On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 21:22:27 -0400, DIYGUY
wrote:

I had the identical problem with my five year old Delta CS. Solved it
by using the Delta insert made for dado blades. Needed one of these
anyway so it was not a big deal.

I don't know how you would make a zero-clearance insert for 45 degrees.
The problem I see is that the usual process for making the insert calls
for raising the spinning blade up through the insert while it is held
down by the fence. If you try this with the blade set at an angle two
bad things are going to happen. The first is obvious and that is the
entry cut into in the insert will not be zero clearance because raising
the blade vertically


heh...
never done it, eh?





will chew up the bottom of the insert and then exit
the top leaving a larger opening than zero clearance. The second one is
really bad and this is that if you use the fence to hold down the insert
you must be sure to put it on the side opposite the blade direction and
there just may not be enough "bite" on this narrower side to keep the
insert clamped in place. I suppose there are other ways to keep the
insert immobile but overall I just cannot see this as practical. Anyone
else care to chime in here?



no problems plunge cutting through any of my zero clearance bevel
inserts....







Rich Durkee wrote:
For the first time since I bought the Delta Contractors saw a year ago
I am trying to cut a 45 degree mitre in the ends of the jewelry box
sides. However when I tilt the blade to 45 degrees, the blade hits on
the insert. I noticed that when the blade is at 90 degrees the blade
is not centered in the slot in the insert, but I don't see where there
is anything I can do to move it over to the left a little bit. At 45
the blade doesn't hit by much but definitely hits. Don't see anything
in the manual about an auxiliary insert for cutting 45s so I what's
the problem?

Rich Durkee



Leon August 31st 04 04:58 AM


"DIYGUY" wrote in message
.. .
I had the identical problem with my five year old Delta CS. Solved it by
using the Delta insert made for dado blades. Needed one of these anyway so
it was not a big deal.

I don't know how you would make a zero-clearance insert for 45 degrees.
The problem I see is that the usual process for making the insert calls
for raising the spinning blade up through the insert while it is held down
by the fence. If you try this with the blade set at an angle two bad
things are going to happen.


Really?

The first is obvious and that is the entry cut into in the insert will not
be zero clearance because raising the blade vertically will chew up the
bottom of the insert and then exit the top leaving a larger opening than
zero clearance.


You are guessing here... right? The blade when tilted at a 45 degree
setting DOES NOT travel vertically. You better take another look at how
the blade travels when set at a bevel.


The second one is
really bad and this is that if you use the fence to hold down the insert
you must be sure to put it on the side opposite the blade direction and
there just may not be enough "bite" on this narrower side to keep the
insert clamped in place. I suppose there are other ways to keep the
insert immobile but overall I just cannot see this as practical. Anyone
else care to chime in here?


Wrong again.



DIYGUY August 31st 04 03:14 PM

Love the cynicism!! Boy, it is always fun to belittle someone else and
show your own brilliance in the bargain. Why do you need to try and
make someone else look small, is it to make yourself look large? If
your comments are intended to shed light on the problem it might be
helpful to all who read the NG to actually outline something of value.
Did you enjoy your self-satisfied smirk??


wrote:
On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 21:22:27 -0400, DIYGUY
wrote:


I had the identical problem with my five year old Delta CS. Solved it
by using the Delta insert made for dado blades. Needed one of these
anyway so it was not a big deal.

I don't know how you would make a zero-clearance insert for 45 degrees.
The problem I see is that the usual process for making the insert calls
for raising the spinning blade up through the insert while it is held
down by the fence. If you try this with the blade set at an angle two
bad things are going to happen. The first is obvious and that is the
entry cut into in the insert will not be zero clearance because raising
the blade vertically



heh...
never done it, eh?






will chew up the bottom of the insert and then exit
the top leaving a larger opening than zero clearance. The second one is
really bad and this is that if you use the fence to hold down the insert
you must be sure to put it on the side opposite the blade direction and
there just may not be enough "bite" on this narrower side to keep the
insert clamped in place. I suppose there are other ways to keep the
insert immobile but overall I just cannot see this as practical. Anyone
else care to chime in here?




no problems plunge cutting through any of my zero clearance bevel
inserts....







Rich Durkee wrote:

For the first time since I bought the Delta Contractors saw a year ago
I am trying to cut a 45 degree mitre in the ends of the jewelry box
sides. However when I tilt the blade to 45 degrees, the blade hits on
the insert. I noticed that when the blade is at 90 degrees the blade
is not centered in the slot in the insert, but I don't see where there
is anything I can do to move it over to the left a little bit. At 45
the blade doesn't hit by much but definitely hits. Don't see anything
in the manual about an auxiliary insert for cutting 45s so I what's
the problem?

Rich Durkee





Lawrence Wasserman August 31st 04 04:32 PM

In article ,
DIYGUY wrote:
I had the identical problem with my five year old Delta CS. Solved it
by using the Delta insert made for dado blades. Needed one of these
anyway so it was not a big deal.

I don't know how you would make a zero-clearance insert for 45 degrees.
The problem I see is that the usual process for making the insert calls
for raising the spinning blade up through the insert while it is held
down by the fence. If you try this with the blade set at an angle two
bad things are going to happen. The first is obvious and that is the
entry cut into in the insert will not be zero clearance because raising
the blade vertically will chew up the bottom of the insert and then exit
the top leaving a larger opening than zero clearance. The second one is
really bad and this is that if you use the fence to hold down the insert
you must be sure to put it on the side opposite the blade direction and
there just may not be enough "bite" on this narrower side to keep the
insert clamped in place. I suppose there are other ways to keep the
insert immobile but overall I just cannot see this as practical. Anyone
else care to chime in here?

...previous quote snipped...

On my Delta contractor saw, and every other tilting arbor table saw I
have seen, up & down motion of the blade is perpendicular to the
arbor, i.e, the blade will stay within it's own plane when
raised/lowered, regardless of the tilt angle. And as you say, there are
other ways to retain an insert besides moving the fence over it.


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland



[email protected] September 1st 04 02:04 AM

On Tue, 31 Aug 2004 09:14:53 -0400, DIYGUY
wrote:

Love the cynicism!! Boy, it is always fun to belittle someone else and
show your own brilliance in the bargain. Why do you need to try and
make someone else look small, is it to make yourself look large? If
your comments are intended to shed light on the problem it might be
helpful to all who read the NG to actually outline something of value.
Did you enjoy your self-satisfied smirk??


yep.




wrote:
On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 21:22:27 -0400, DIYGUY
wrote:


I had the identical problem with my five year old Delta CS. Solved it
by using the Delta insert made for dado blades. Needed one of these
anyway so it was not a big deal.

I don't know how you would make a zero-clearance insert for 45 degrees.
The problem I see is that the usual process for making the insert calls
for raising the spinning blade up through the insert while it is held
down by the fence. If you try this with the blade set at an angle two
bad things are going to happen. The first is obvious and that is the
entry cut into in the insert will not be zero clearance because raising
the blade vertically



heh...
never done it, eh?






will chew up the bottom of the insert and then exit
the top leaving a larger opening than zero clearance. The second one is
really bad and this is that if you use the fence to hold down the insert
you must be sure to put it on the side opposite the blade direction and
there just may not be enough "bite" on this narrower side to keep the
insert clamped in place. I suppose there are other ways to keep the
insert immobile but overall I just cannot see this as practical. Anyone
else care to chime in here?




no problems plunge cutting through any of my zero clearance bevel
inserts....







Rich Durkee wrote:

For the first time since I bought the Delta Contractors saw a year ago
I am trying to cut a 45 degree mitre in the ends of the jewelry box
sides. However when I tilt the blade to 45 degrees, the blade hits on
the insert. I noticed that when the blade is at 90 degrees the blade
is not centered in the slot in the insert, but I don't see where there
is anything I can do to move it over to the left a little bit. At 45
the blade doesn't hit by much but definitely hits. Don't see anything
in the manual about an auxiliary insert for cutting 45s so I what's
the problem?

Rich Durkee





Robert Galloway September 2nd 04 01:18 AM



DIYGUY wrote:
I had the identical problem with my five year old Delta CS. Solved it
by using the Delta insert made for dado blades. Needed one of these
anyway so it was not a big deal.

I don't know how you would make a zero-clearance insert for 45 degrees.
The problem I see is that the usual process for making the insert calls
for raising the spinning blade up through the insert while it is held
down by the fence. If you try this with the blade set at an angle two
bad things are going to happen. The first is obvious and that is the
entry cut into in the insert will not be zero clearance because raising
the blade vertically will chew up the bottom of the insert and then exit
the top leaving a larger opening than zero clearance.


I don't know about your saw but mine does a pretty good job of moving
the blade in the "plane" of the blade regardless of angle. IOW, cuts a
pretty narrow slot by raising the blade regardless of angle. Place the
fence on the side of the insert where the blade is NOT going to exit.
In the case of my saw, the Jet JT10, the "safe" side is also the wide
side. YMMV

bob g.
The second one is
really bad and this is that if you use the fence to hold down the insert
you must be sure to put it on the side opposite the blade direction and
there just may not be enough "bite" on this narrower side to keep the
insert clamped in place. I suppose there are other ways to keep the
insert immobile but overall I just cannot see this as practical. Anyone
else care to chime in here?

Rich Durkee wrote:

For the first time since I bought the Delta Contractors saw a year ago
I am trying to cut a 45 degree mitre in the ends of the jewelry box
sides. However when I tilt the blade to 45 degrees, the blade hits on
the insert. I noticed that when the blade is at 90 degrees the blade
is not centered in the slot in the insert, but I don't see where there
is anything I can do to move it over to the left a little bit. At 45
the blade doesn't hit by much but definitely hits. Don't see anything
in the manual about an auxiliary insert for cutting 45s so I what's
the problem?

Rich Durkee





Gary[_26_] December 22nd 20 04:45 PM

Delta contractor blade hits insert
 
Mine did the same thing, then it did not. I blew the dust out and it is working fine.

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...rt-263336-.htm



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