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Default Table with granite insert

I came across a wide variety of granite sizes, all 1" think which I'd
like to use to make tables, coasters, or whatever comes to mind, but
want to dabble in the furniture aspect. One granite slab is oval and
appears to be the remnant cut from a bathroom sink. I'm thinking of two
options for a table. One is a bigger table with the granite insert in
the center and the other is just a small coffee or side table using the
granite with wood sides, similar to this small table

https://chairish-prod.freetls.fastly...640&height=640

or this table with wider wood sides
https://img.letgo.com/images/d6/d1/9...=img _600_pwa

but obviously oval. Therefore, seeking suggestions how to approached
shaping/cutting the wood to encase the granite slab, which you can see
here.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/

If I go larger table, do I make the table, piecing boards together then
cut the center, rabbeting for the granite to fit or if the smaller
table, I wouldn't know how to approach, since it's not mitering a square.
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Default Table with granite insert

On Tuesday, May 26, 2020 at 9:53:47 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:

If I go larger table, do I make the table, piecing boards together then
cut the center, rabbeting for the granite to fit or if the smaller
table, I wouldn't know how to approach, since it's not mitering a square.


I had a similar project some years ago, not knowing what was the best approach. I went with the 'make the table top and cut out the opening'. I used faux marble from a bathroom shower redo and the backside of the slab was not perfectly flat.... there was lots of bumps and glue, just not a good flat backside surface. I also didn't have the proper tools for cutting stone nor in a perfect circle. The project was a small 3-leg bistro type table.. It didn't come out perfect, so I use it in the shop. In the second pic you can see one of the small gaps (there are others) between the marble and the wood frame.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...posted-public/

I likened it to making a raised/angled picture frame or doing my first crown molding project, i.e., compound miter, it didn't come out perfectly. My table top insert cutout was not a perfect match to the marble slab's edge. I suppose one has to practice many of these sorts of projects, to become good at it, or have some specific tools for making them with excellent results.

A couple of things to remember: 1) Mark your slab and the wood top, precisely, so that both match with their alignment. 2) Once fitted, I don't think you have to, or want to, glue or secure your slab in place. Its weight should be sufficient enough for stability.

Since I am not proficient in perfectly mating pieces as this, I thought, if I ever made another, then I might use a trim element between the wood frame and stone. The trim element I've considered is a caning spline or a custom made wooden spline to fit into the space. Depending on size, a custom spline might be harder to bend in place. Either trim type could be matched or contrast stained. As to using a caning spline, I would stain it and allow it to dry, before inserting into the space. Caning spline is very soft and would crush if trying to install when wet or damp.... it needs to be pressed in place when dry. A spline might be unsightly to some extent, also, just depends on the furniture piece and use, I suppose. My "defected" table fits my shop scenario.

I can't think of any other tips to recommend. Hopefully someone with more experience/expertise can help out.

Hope this helps.
Sonny
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Default Table with granite insert

On 5/26/2020 9:51 PM, Hawk wrote:
I came across a wide variety of granite sizes, all 1" think which I'd
like to use to make tables, coasters, or whatever comes to mind, but
want to dabble in the furniture aspect. One granite slab is oval and
appears to be the remnant cut from a bathroom sink. I'm thinking of two
options for a table. One is a bigger table with the granite insert in
the center and the other is just a small coffee or side table using the
granite with wood sides, similar to this small table


FWIW coasters for drinks and especially in humid climates need to be
porous. Granite would make a terrible coaster. Almost pointless to
have a granite coaster IMHO.

But granite makes a great end table top.

Below is actually marble but....

I made the top perimeter frame and marble slab separate. You lift off
the perimeter frame, the rock slab, and then you only have half the
weight to lift if you ever move the unit.

AND the rock slab does not have to be a particular size.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/
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Default Table with granite insert

On Wednesday, May 27, 2020 at 5:36:42 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:


FWIW coasters for drinks and especially in humid climates need to be
porous. Granite would make a terrible coaster. Almost pointless to
have a granite coaster IMHO.

But granite makes a great end table top.

Below is actually marble but....

I made the top perimeter frame and marble slab separate. You lift off
the perimeter frame, the rock slab, and then you only have half the
weight to lift if you ever move the unit.

AND the rock slab does not have to be a particular size.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/


That's an excellent solution, Leon.

Sonny
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Default Table with granite insert

On Wednesday, May 27, 2020 at 8:39:02 PM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, May 27, 2020 at 5:36:42 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:


FWIW coasters for drinks and especially in humid climates need to be
porous. Granite would make a terrible coaster. Almost pointless to
have a granite coaster IMHO.

But granite makes a great end table top.

Below is actually marble but....

I made the top perimeter frame and marble slab separate. You lift off
the perimeter frame, the rock slab, and then you only have half the
weight to lift if you ever move the unit.

AND the rock slab does not have to be a particular size.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/


That's an excellent solution, Leon.

Sonny


....unless you want a full size, flat top.

At some point the size/shape of the slab becomes a limiting factor in how
much usable surface you end up with.



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Default Table with granite insert

On Tuesday, May 26, 2020 at 10:53:47 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
I came across a wide variety of granite sizes, all 1" think which I'd
like to use to make tables, coasters, or whatever comes to mind, but
want to dabble in the furniture aspect. One granite slab is oval and
appears to be the remnant cut from a bathroom sink. I'm thinking of two
options for a table. One is a bigger table with the granite insert in
the center and the other is just a small coffee or side table using the
granite with wood sides, similar to this small table

https://chairish-prod.freetls.fastly...640&height=640

or this table with wider wood sides
https://img.letgo.com/images/d6/d1/9...=img _600_pwa

but obviously oval. Therefore, seeking suggestions how to approached
shaping/cutting the wood to encase the granite slab, which you can see
here.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/

If I go larger table, do I make the table, piecing boards together then
cut the center, rabbeting for the granite to fit or if the smaller
table, I wouldn't know how to approach, since it's not mitering a square.


How about making a flat surface, sort of a faux top, to sit both the
slab and the wooden frame on?

The slab would be fully supported and the frame could be sized to be flush
with the slab.

Either the weight of the slab would hold the frame from sliding or dowels
(or something similar) on the underside could hold it in place.
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Default Table with granite insert

On Thursday, May 28, 2020 at 8:00:54 AM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 26, 2020 at 10:53:47 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
I came across a wide variety of granite sizes, all 1" think which I'd
like to use to make tables, coasters, or whatever comes to mind, but
want to dabble in the furniture aspect. One granite slab is oval and
appears to be the remnant cut from a bathroom sink. I'm thinking of two
options for a table. One is a bigger table with the granite insert in
the center and the other is just a small coffee or side table using the
granite with wood sides, similar to this small table

https://chairish-prod.freetls.fastly...640&height=640

or this table with wider wood sides
https://img.letgo.com/images/d6/d1/9...=img _600_pwa

but obviously oval. Therefore, seeking suggestions how to approached
shaping/cutting the wood to encase the granite slab, which you can see
here.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/

If I go larger table, do I make the table, piecing boards together then
cut the center, rabbeting for the granite to fit or if the smaller
table, I wouldn't know how to approach, since it's not mitering a square.


How about making a flat surface, sort of a faux top, to sit both the
slab and the wooden frame on?

The slab would be fully supported and the frame could be sized to be flush
with the slab.

Either the weight of the slab would hold the frame from sliding or dowels
(or something similar) on the underside could hold it in place.


Leon,

Is that what you did?
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Default Table with granite insert

On Thursday, May 28, 2020 at 7:00:54 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:

How about making a flat surface, sort of a faux top, to sit both the
slab and the wooden frame on?

The slab would be fully supported and the frame could be sized to be flush
with the slab.

Either the weight of the slab would hold the frame from sliding or dowels
(or something similar) on the underside could hold it in place.


That's essentially what I did in trying to make my frame flush with the marble top. The problem is getting the slab's edges perfectly flush or butted up perfectly against the frame's cutout edges. Unless one has specific tools for mating those edges, perfectly, there will be small gaps in the edges' fit. Without the specific tools, one would have to be very patient and careful with hand-cutting/sanding for a perfect fit. I perceive Hawk is in the same shape as I, 1) first attempt at this sort of thing (similar to first attempt at crown molding) and 2) in not having the specific tools for getting a better fit than I got.

When it comes to flush fitting frame-to-slab, the above is the issue/problem, not how or if the top's assembly is attached to the carcass.

I would suppose, if a DIYer has one of those hand-held CNC router thing-a-ma-jigs, that helps guide your cutting, then a more perfect cutting can be achieved, as opposed to using the typical cutting tools/techniques a DIYer has on hand. The flush-fit problem is more difficult to resolve with curved cutting/fitting, as opposed to cutting straight lines, for inserts as Hawk wants, as I wanted.

Leon's project solved a particular aspect of the issue, but his frame is not flush fitting with the slab's surface. It's an example of how to avoid the problem for us DIYers with limited tools.

Sonny
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Default Table with granite insert

Sonny on Thu, 28 May 2020 07:56:19 -0700 (PDT)
typed in rec.woodworking the following:
On Thursday, May 28, 2020 at 7:00:54 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:

How about making a flat surface, sort of a faux top, to sit both the
slab and the wooden frame on?

The slab would be fully supported and the frame could be sized to be flush
with the slab.

Either the weight of the slab would hold the frame from sliding or dowels
(or something similar) on the underside could hold it in place.


That's essentially what I did in trying to make my frame flush with the marble top. The problem is getting the slab's edges perfectly flush or butted up perfectly against the frame's cutout edges. Unless one has specific tools for mating those edges, perfectly, there will be small gaps in the edges' fit. Without the specific tools, one would have to be very patient and careful with hand-cutting/sanding for a perfect fit. I perceive Hawk is in the same shape as I, 1) first attempt at this sort of thing (similar to first attempt at crown molding) and 2) in not having the specific tools for getting a better fit than I got.

When it comes to flush fitting frame-to-slab, the above is the issue/problem, not how or if the top's assembly is attached to the carcass.


Easy for me to say but some sort of tracer/pantograph setup, which
will follow the edge of the slab and rout pocket in the wooden table.
(Same could be done to hollow out the table to fit a slab's irregular
bottom surface.)

Other option is an inset "frame" fitted to the slab. I'm thinking
along the lines of a six or eight sided frame, where each piece is
fitted to the slab. Of course, you'll have to mark everything so
you're not making frame parts which 'overlap'. that is part A and part
B "fit" the slab, but are overlapping by a quarter inch (and leaving a
gap between B and C). That is, as you point out, a lot of fussy work,
fitting wood to stone. "Let it be a learning experience for you."

--
pyotr filipivich
Next month's Panel: Graft - Boon or blessing?
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Default Table with granite insert

On 5/28/2020 7:00 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 26, 2020 at 10:53:47 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
I came across a wide variety of granite sizes, all 1" think which I'd
like to use to make tables, coasters, or whatever comes to mind, but
want to dabble in the furniture aspect. One granite slab is oval and
appears to be the remnant cut from a bathroom sink. I'm thinking of two
options for a table. One is a bigger table with the granite insert in
the center and the other is just a small coffee or side table using the
granite with wood sides, similar to this small table

https://chairish-prod.freetls.fastly...640&height=640

or this table with wider wood sides
https://img.letgo.com/images/d6/d1/9...=img _600_pwa

but obviously oval. Therefore, seeking suggestions how to approached
shaping/cutting the wood to encase the granite slab, which you can see
here.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/

If I go larger table, do I make the table, piecing boards together then
cut the center, rabbeting for the granite to fit or if the smaller
table, I wouldn't know how to approach, since it's not mitering a square.


How about making a flat surface, sort of a faux top, to sit both the
slab and the wooden frame on?

The slab would be fully supported and the frame could be sized to be flush
with the slab.

Either the weight of the slab would hold the frame from sliding or dowels
(or something similar) on the underside could hold it in place.


Umm that is pretty much what I did and said.


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On 5/28/2020 7:27 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, May 28, 2020 at 8:00:54 AM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 26, 2020 at 10:53:47 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
I came across a wide variety of granite sizes, all 1" think which I'd
like to use to make tables, coasters, or whatever comes to mind, but
want to dabble in the furniture aspect. One granite slab is oval and
appears to be the remnant cut from a bathroom sink. I'm thinking of two
options for a table. One is a bigger table with the granite insert in
the center and the other is just a small coffee or side table using the
granite with wood sides, similar to this small table

https://chairish-prod.freetls.fastly...640&height=640

or this table with wider wood sides
https://img.letgo.com/images/d6/d1/9...=img _600_pwa

but obviously oval. Therefore, seeking suggestions how to approached
shaping/cutting the wood to encase the granite slab, which you can see
here.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/

If I go larger table, do I make the table, piecing boards together then
cut the center, rabbeting for the granite to fit or if the smaller
table, I wouldn't know how to approach, since it's not mitering a square.


How about making a flat surface, sort of a faux top, to sit both the
slab and the wooden frame on?

The slab would be fully supported and the frame could be sized to be flush
with the slab.

Either the weight of the slab would hold the frame from sliding or dowels
(or something similar) on the underside could hold it in place.


Leon,

Is that what you did?



LOL Yes
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Default Table with granite insert

On Thu, 28 May 2020 08:22:38 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Sonny on Thu, 28 May 2020 07:56:19 -0700 (PDT)
typed in rec.woodworking the following:
On Thursday, May 28, 2020 at 7:00:54 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:

How about making a flat surface, sort of a faux top, to sit both the
slab and the wooden frame on?

The slab would be fully supported and the frame could be sized to be flush
with the slab.

Either the weight of the slab would hold the frame from sliding or dowels
(or something similar) on the underside could hold it in place.


That's essentially what I did in trying to make my frame flush with the marble top. The problem is getting the slab's edges perfectly flush or butted up perfectly against the frame's cutout edges. Unless one has specific tools for mating those edges, perfectly, there will be small gaps in the edges' fit. Without the specific tools, one would have to be very patient and careful with hand-cutting/sanding for a perfect fit. I perceive Hawk is in the same shape as I, 1) first attempt at this sort of thing (similar to first attempt at crown molding) and 2) in not having the specific tools for getting a better fit than I got.

When it comes to flush fitting frame-to-slab, the above is the issue/problem, not how or if the top's assembly is attached to the carcass.


Easy for me to say but some sort of tracer/pantograph setup, which
will follow the edge of the slab and rout pocket in the wooden table.
(Same could be done to hollow out the table to fit a slab's irregular
bottom surface.)


How about "floating" the slab in a puddle of glue, acrylic, or some
other filler. Drill holes in the bottom (size appropriate to the
viscosity of the filler) so the entire back of the stone is supported
and the excess goes away through the holes. It the stone is to be
removable, wrap the bottom in Saran wrap, or whatever, before
"floating" it. If needed, a strait edge and mallet can be used to
level the slab in the table top. The holes may have to be smaller so
the filler has to be "pounded" out through them.

Other option is an inset "frame" fitted to the slab. I'm thinking
along the lines of a six or eight sided frame, where each piece is
fitted to the slab. Of course, you'll have to mark everything so
you're not making frame parts which 'overlap'. that is part A and part
B "fit" the slab, but are overlapping by a quarter inch (and leaving a
gap between B and C). That is, as you point out, a lot of fussy work,
fitting wood to stone. "Let it be a learning experience for you."


This option allows the individual frame pieces to be replaced when the
inevitable "cut that three times and it's still too short" moment
comes. ;-)
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On 5/27/2020 11:42 AM, Sonny wrote:
On Tuesday, May 26, 2020 at 9:53:47 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:

If I go larger table, do I make the table, piecing boards together then
cut the center, rabbeting for the granite to fit or if the smaller
table, I wouldn't know how to approach, since it's not mitering a square.


I had a similar project some years ago, not knowing what was the best approach. I went with the 'make the table top and cut out the opening'. I used faux marble from a bathroom shower redo and the backside of the slab was not perfectly flat.... there was lots of bumps and glue, just not a good flat backside surface. I also didn't have the proper tools for cutting stone nor in a perfect circle. The project was a small 3-leg bistro type table. It didn't come out perfect, so I use it in the shop. In the second pic you can see one of the small gaps (there are others) between the marble and the wood frame.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...posted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...posted-public/

I likened it to making a raised/angled picture frame or doing my first crown molding project, i.e., compound miter, it didn't come out perfectly. My table top insert cutout was not a perfect match to the marble slab's edge. I suppose one has to practice many of these sorts of projects, to become good at it, or have some specific tools for making them with excellent results.

A couple of things to remember: 1) Mark your slab and the wood top, precisely, so that both match with their alignment. 2) Once fitted, I don't think you have to, or want to, glue or secure your slab in place. Its weight should be sufficient enough for stability.

Since I am not proficient in perfectly mating pieces as this, I thought, if I ever made another, then I might use a trim element between the wood frame and stone. The trim element I've considered is a caning spline or a custom made wooden spline to fit into the space. Depending on size, a custom spline might be harder to bend in place. Either trim type could be matched or contrast stained. As to using a caning spline, I would stain it and allow it to dry, before inserting into the space. Caning spline is very soft and would crush if trying to install when wet or damp.... it needs to be pressed in place when dry. A spline might be unsightly to some extent, also, just depends on the furniture piece and use, I suppose. My "defected" table fits my shop scenario.

I can't think of any other tips to recommend. Hopefully someone with more experience/expertise can help out.

Hope this helps.
Sonny


Thank you. Appreciate the tips.
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On 5/27/2020 6:36 PM, Leon wrote:
On 5/26/2020 9:51 PM, Hawk wrote:
I came across a wide variety of granite sizes, all 1" think which I'd
like to use to make tables, coasters, or whatever comes to mind, but
want to dabble in the furniture aspect. One granite slab is oval and
appears to be the remnant cut from a bathroom sink. I'm thinking of
two options for a table. One is a bigger table with the granite insert
in the center and the other is just a small coffee or side table using
the granite with wood sides, similar to this small table


FWIW coasters for drinks and especially in humid climates need to be
porous.Â* Granite would make a terrible coaster.Â* Almost pointless to
have a granite coaster IMHO.

But granite makes a great end table top.

Below is actually marble but....

I made the top perimeter frame and marble slab separate.Â* You lift off
the perimeter frame, the rock slab, and then you only have half the
weight to lift if you ever move the unit.

AND the rock slab does not have to be a particular size.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/


Very nice.

I assume the slab and perimeter sit on the cross members or is there
another flat surface resting upon them?
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On 5/28/2020 8:00 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 26, 2020 at 10:53:47 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
I came across a wide variety of granite sizes, all 1" think which I'd
like to use to make tables, coasters, or whatever comes to mind, but
want to dabble in the furniture aspect. One granite slab is oval and
appears to be the remnant cut from a bathroom sink. I'm thinking of two
options for a table. One is a bigger table with the granite insert in
the center and the other is just a small coffee or side table using the
granite with wood sides, similar to this small table

https://chairish-prod.freetls.fastly...640&height=640

or this table with wider wood sides
https://img.letgo.com/images/d6/d1/9...=img _600_pwa

but obviously oval. Therefore, seeking suggestions how to approached
shaping/cutting the wood to encase the granite slab, which you can see
here.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/

If I go larger table, do I make the table, piecing boards together then
cut the center, rabbeting for the granite to fit or if the smaller
table, I wouldn't know how to approach, since it's not mitering a square.


How about making a flat surface, sort of a faux top, to sit both the
slab and the wooden frame on?

The slab would be fully supported and the frame could be sized to be flush
with the slab.

Either the weight of the slab would hold the frame from sliding or dowels
(or something similar) on the underside could hold it in place.


That's the direction I'll most likely take. I like the dowel idea to
guide when placing on top. Though, I still need to figure out how to
make the wooden frame for the curve.


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On 5/28/2020 10:56 AM, Sonny wrote:
On Thursday, May 28, 2020 at 7:00:54 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:

How about making a flat surface, sort of a faux top, to sit both the
slab and the wooden frame on?

The slab would be fully supported and the frame could be sized to be flush
with the slab.

Either the weight of the slab would hold the frame from sliding or dowels
(or something similar) on the underside could hold it in place.


That's essentially what I did in trying to make my frame flush with the marble top. The problem is getting the slab's edges perfectly flush or butted up perfectly against the frame's cutout edges. Unless one has specific tools for mating those edges, perfectly, there will be small gaps in the edges' fit. Without the specific tools, one would have to be very patient and careful with hand-cutting/sanding for a perfect fit. I perceive Hawk is in the same shape as I, 1) first attempt at this sort of thing (similar to first attempt at crown molding) and 2) in not having the specific tools for getting a better fit than I got.


Though, I've done crown molding before, this is my first attempt at this
sort of furniture piece, other than making a small sofa table with a
round slab of Walnut. But cutting and fitting straight pieces on crown,
frames, miters, etc is much easier than curves, which will be the main
issue.

Depending on specific tools required, I may have most of what's needed.


When it comes to flush fitting frame-to-slab, the above is the issue/problem, not how or if the top's assembly is attached to the carcass.

I would suppose, if a DIYer has one of those hand-held CNC router thing-a-ma-jigs, that helps guide your cutting, then a more perfect cutting can be achieved, as opposed to using the typical cutting tools/techniques a DIYer has on hand. The flush-fit problem is more difficult to resolve with curved cutting/fitting, as opposed to cutting straight lines, for inserts as Hawk wants, as I wanted.

Leon's project solved a particular aspect of the issue, but his frame is not flush fitting with the slab's surface. It's an example of how to avoid the problem for us DIYers with limited tools.

Sonny


I think the secret may lie with smoothing the granite edges for a better
fit than trying to fit the wood perimeter around the granite. I used my
grinder and cement disc to smooth much away yesterday.
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On 5/28/2020 11:25 AM, Leon wrote:
On 5/28/2020 7:00 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, May 26, 2020 at 10:53:47 PM UTC-4, Hawk wrote:
I came across a wide variety of granite sizes, all 1" think which I'd
like to use to make tables, coasters, or whatever comes to mind, but
want to dabble in the furniture aspect. One granite slab is oval and
appears to be the remnant cut from a bathroom sink. I'm thinking of two
options for a table. One is a bigger table with the granite insert in
the center and the other is just a small coffee or side table using the
granite with wood sides, similar to this small table

https://chairish-prod.freetls.fastly...640&height=640


or this table with wider wood sides
https://img.letgo.com/images/d6/d1/9...=img _600_pwa


but obviously oval. Therefore, seeking suggestions how to approached
shaping/cutting the wood to encase the granite slab, which you can see
here.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/


If I go larger table, do I make the table, piecing boards together then
cut the center, rabbeting for the granite to fit or if the smaller
table, I wouldn't know how to approach, since it's not mitering a
square.


How about making a flat surface, sort of a faux top, to sit both the
slab and the wooden frame on?

The slab would be fully supported and the frame could be sized to be
flush
with the slab.

Either the weight of the slab would hold the frame from sliding or dowels
(or something similar) on the underside could hold it in place.


Umm that is pretty much what I did and said.


I think that will be the direction I go, but I still need to figure out
how to make a curved perimeter around the granite.
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On Thursday, May 28, 2020 at 5:57:37 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:

I think that will be the direction I go, but I still need to figure out
how to make a curved perimeter around the granite.


That's exactly what I've been saying all along. That's the problem, getting a perfect fit along the curved edges in/for a flush fit surface. It doesn't matter what support you have under the slab or the attachment method to the carcass.

Do you have the precision tools for either cutting the slab or cutting the wood frame so that their edges mate perfectly? If not, then you'll likely have small gaps, as I have, along the curved boundary. Otherwise, you'll need to take great care to hand rout, hand cut/carve and/or sand those edges for a perfect fit.... unless a perfect fit or a near perfect fit is not necessary. The sample pics/links you referenced seem to indicate perfect fit results.

Sonny
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On 5/29/2020 1:11 AM, Sonny wrote:
On Thursday, May 28, 2020 at 5:57:37 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:

I think that will be the direction I go, but I still need to figure out
how to make a curved perimeter around the granite.


That's exactly what I've been saying all along. That's the problem, getting a perfect fit along the curved edges in/for a flush fit surface. It doesn't matter what support you have under the slab or the attachment method to the carcass.

Do you have the precision tools for either cutting the slab or cutting the wood frame so that their edges mate perfectly? If not, then you'll likely have small gaps, as I have, along the curved boundary. Otherwise, you'll need to take great care to hand rout, hand cut/carve and/or sand those edges for a perfect fit.... unless a perfect fit or a near perfect fit is not necessary. The sample pics/links you referenced seem to indicate perfect fit results.

Sonny


You're correct, I'd need to sand one or the other. I am able to smooth
the edge of the granite and obviously the wood to get the best results.
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On Friday, May 29, 2020 at 6:51:16 AM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:

You're correct, I'd need to sand one or the other. I am able to smooth
the edge of the granite and obviously the wood to get the best results.


Other issues you'll have to tackle:
1) My marble slab is 1/2" thick. Your slab is 1", twice as much surface to work on, twice as much surface to get right.
2) You'll be installing your slab repeatedly, checking the fit as you go. Placing the slab in exact position each time, then having to remove it will be aggravating, frustrating. Anticipate this install-remove and how you'll accommodate the ease of insertion and removal. Your slab will be awkwardly heavy for ease of maneuvering the stone. Finger holes, finger-like holes (in some capacity) underneath the base/support will help with this maneuvering during repeated fittings.

Another option for other (small, smallish) tables is to have a trim around those edges. You said you have other slabs.... for other tables, I assume. A trim edge is not so bad, no one will know if this is part of the plan. A trim won't look unsightly or out of place. As mentioned, a caning spline would work well for inserting a trim feature. The issue with a cane spline is that you'll need about 3-4 layers of spline for the 1" thickness of your slabs. Cane spline is about 5/16"-3/8" thick for a 1/4" wide spline. That is not a problem, as spline is inexpensive and very easy to install..... and can be stained and finished. It is soft enough to conform itself into an uneven, irregular space. It's easily cut with a razor knife. Should this spline option be a consideration, I get my caning supplies from Franks Cane and Rush Supplies. Here's a link to his spline size and prices. You can, at least, get an idea of spline dimensions and price. Example: 50' roll of 1/4" wide spline is $11.25. Scroll down to Reed Spline. There may be a caning supplier near you, as well.
https://www.franksupply.com/caning/p...ng.html#spline

Hope this helps.
Sonny



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On 5/28/2020 5:40 PM, Hawk wrote:
On 5/27/2020 6:36 PM, Leon wrote:
On 5/26/2020 9:51 PM, Hawk wrote:
I came across a wide variety of granite sizes, all 1" think which I'd
like to use to make tables, coasters, or whatever comes to mind, but
want to dabble in the furniture aspect. One granite slab is oval and
appears to be the remnant cut from a bathroom sink. I'm thinking of
two options for a table. One is a bigger table with the granite
insert in the center and the other is just a small coffee or side
table using the granite with wood sides, similar to this small table


FWIW coasters for drinks and especially in humid climates need to be
porous.Â* Granite would make a terrible coaster.Â* Almost pointless to
have a granite coaster IMHO.

But granite makes a great end table top.

Below is actually marble but....

I made the top perimeter frame and marble slab separate.Â* You lift off
the perimeter frame, the rock slab, and then you only have half the
weight to lift if you ever move the unit.

AND the rock slab does not have to be a particular size.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/


Very nice.


Thank you.


I assume the slab and perimeter sit on the cross members or is there
another flat surface resting upon them?



There are a couple of cross supports under the marble. Also the "top
frame" sides capture the perimeter of the cabinet so that it does not
slide. The marble simply sits on top of the supports, it is heavy
enough that it is not going to move.

Here is a blow up.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/

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On Fri, 29 May 2020 07:35:35 -0700 (PDT), Sonny
wrote:

On Friday, May 29, 2020 at 6:51:16 AM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:

You're correct, I'd need to sand one or the other. I am able to smooth
the edge of the granite and obviously the wood to get the best results.


Other issues you'll have to tackle:
1) My marble slab is 1/2" thick. Your slab is 1", twice as much surface to work on, twice as much surface to get right.
2) You'll be installing your slab repeatedly, checking the fit as you go. Placing the slab in exact position each time, then having to remove it will be aggravating, frustrating. Anticipate this install-remove and how you'll accommodate the ease of insertion and removal. Your slab will be awkwardly heavy for ease of maneuvering the stone. Finger holes, finger-like holes (in some capacity) underneath the base/support will help with this maneuvering during repeated fittings.


Cut the wood surround with a 5 or 10 degree? undercut taper just a
"titch" smaller than the marble slab - then you only need to sand the
top edge back to fit. using chalk or oil or whatever, mark the top
edge of the marble/granite then place the "surround" on top and apply
light pressure to transfer the marking agent to the wood to indicate
where to sand to. "under-sand" then trial fit and repeat untill you
get a nearly perfect fit. Actually simpler and faster than it sounds.


Another option for other (small, smallish) tables is to have a trim around those edges. You said you have other slabs.... for other tables, I assume. A trim edge is not so bad, no one will know if this is part of the plan. A trim won't look unsightly or out of place. As mentioned, a caning spline would work well for inserting a trim feature. The issue with a cane spline is that you'll need about 3-4 layers of spline for the 1" thickness of your slabs. Cane spline is about 5/16"-3/8" thick for a 1/4" wide spline. That is not a problem, as spline is inexpensive and very easy to install.... and can be stained and finished. It is soft enough to conform itself into an uneven, irregular space. It's easily cut with a razor knife. Should this spline option be a consideration, I get my caning supplies from Franks Cane and Rush Supplies. Here's a link to his spline size and prices. You can, at least, get an idea of spline dimensions and price. Example: 50' roll of 1/4" wide
spline is $11.25. Scroll down to Reed Spline. There may be a caning supplier near you, as well.
https://www.franksupply.com/caning/p...ng.html#spline

Hope this helps.
Sonny

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On 5/29/2020 10:35 AM, Sonny wrote:


Other issues you'll have to tackle:
1) My marble slab is 1/2" thick. Your slab is 1", twice as much surface to work on, twice as much surface to get right.
2) You'll be installing your slab repeatedly, checking the fit as you go. Placing the slab in exact position each time, then having to remove it will be aggravating, frustrating. Anticipate this install-remove and how you'll accommodate the ease of insertion and removal. Your slab will be awkwardly heavy for ease of maneuvering the stone. Finger holes, finger-like holes (in some capacity) underneath the base/support will help with this maneuvering during repeated fittings.


The weight isn't an issue with me for most of the slabs, IMO, they
aren't that heavy to me and I'll look at is as a good workout.

Another option for other (small, smallish) tables is to have a trim around those edges. You said you have other slabs.... for other tables, I assume. A trim edge is not so bad, no one will know if this is part of the plan. A trim won't look unsightly or out of place.

All other pieces are mostly straight and others have that "live edge"
style, like live edge wood. I plan to simply smooth the sharp edges, add
legs and polish these two pieces for side tables.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/

I have larger slabs with rough edges and VERY heavy. I was planning on
installing legs on them also for larger coffee tables. I could also cut
them square and make tables with that, similar to Leon, but most likely
not that good. Practice makes perfect.




As mentioned, a caning spline would work well for inserting a trim
feature. The issue with a cane spline is that you'll need about 3-4
layers of spline for the 1" thickness of your slabs. Cane spline is
about 5/16"-3/8" thick for a 1/4" wide spline. That is not a problem,
as spline is inexpensive and very easy to install.... and can be stained
and finished. It is soft enough to conform itself into an uneven,
irregular space. It's easily cut with a razor knife. Should this
spline option be a consideration, I get my caning supplies from Franks
Cane and Rush Supplies. Here's a link to his spline size and prices.
You can, at least, get an idea of spline dimensions and price. Example:
50' roll of 1/4" wide spline is $11.25. Scroll down to Reed Spline.
There may be a caning supplier near you, as well.
https://www.franksupply.com/caning/p...ng.html#spline

Hope this helps.
Sonny


Something to consider. Thank you
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