How would you approach this repair?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/

On 2/15/2020 3:31 PM, Hawk wrote:
How would you approach this repair?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/



Also, if you were to repair, what would you charge for each type of repair?

On Saturday, February 15, 2020 at 3:30:01 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:
How would you approach this repair?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/

Those look like pretty rough surfaces.

Do the mating surfaces sort of lock themselves together? i.e. do all
the nooks fit precisely in all the crannies? If they do then alignment
should be easy.

Epoxy some dowels into one surface Since lining up the dowels in the
other piece could be problematic, drill oversized holes to give yourself
some play. Practice until you get the fit you need. Put some thickened
epoxy in the oversized holes. Then insert the doweled piece, letting the
nooks and crannies line up the joint for you. As long as you use enough
epoxy to lock the dowels in the oversized holes, and smear some epoxy on
the nooks and crannies, you should have a pretty strong repair.

You could substitute some all thread for the dowels. Lots of built
in keys for the epoxy to grab onto.

On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 15:31:03 -0500, Hawk wrote:

How would you approach this repair?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/


"I" would bore a hole in the leg with a forstner bit and glue in a
good hardwood dowel using epoxy or resorcinol glue and do the same up
unto the broken off part. I would drill the hole up into the tabletop
as well for more rigidity, but not glue the dowel into the table top -
so the leg can still be removed.

On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 16:00:07 -0500, Hawk wrote:

On 2/15/2020 3:31 PM, Hawk wrote:
How would you approach this repair?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/



Also, if you were to repair, what would you charge for each type of repair?

2 hours time plus materials would be the high end of reasonable

On 2/15/2020 4:19 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, February 15, 2020 at 3:30:01 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:
How would you approach this repair?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/

Those look like pretty rough surfaces.

Do the mating surfaces sort of lock themselves together? i.e. do all
the nooks fit precisely in all the crannies? If they do then alignment
should be easy.

Epoxy some dowels into one surface Since lining up the dowels in the
other piece could be problematic, drill oversized holes to give yourself
some play. Practice until you get the fit you need. Put some thickened
epoxy in the oversized holes. Then insert the doweled piece, letting the
nooks and crannies line up the joint for you. As long as you use enough
epoxy to lock the dowels in the oversized holes, and smear some epoxy on
the nooks and crannies, you should have a pretty strong repair.

You could substitute some all thread for the dowels. Lots of built
in keys for the epoxy to grab onto.


I haven't seen the table personally, just that photo and it appears to
be a clean break which means it should line up. I thought of two
methods. One is simply using epoxy and reattach directly. The other is
as suggested with dowels or a rod for added strength. My only concern
was using a dowel was alignment but I like the suggestion of oversizing
for play.

On 2/15/2020 4:21 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 16:00:07 -0500, Hawk wrote:

On 2/15/2020 3:31 PM, Hawk wrote:
How would you approach this repair?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/



Also, if you were to repair, what would you charge for each type of repair?

2 hours time plus materials would be the high end of reasonable


Still uncertain of actual price. I'll have to see what the average rate is.

On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 17:20:32 -0500, Hawk wrote:

On 2/15/2020 4:19 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, February 15, 2020 at 3:30:01 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:
How would you approach this repair?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/

Those look like pretty rough surfaces.

Do the mating surfaces sort of lock themselves together? i.e. do all
the nooks fit precisely in all the crannies? If they do then alignment
should be easy.

Epoxy some dowels into one surface Since lining up the dowels in the
other piece could be problematic, drill oversized holes to give yourself
some play. Practice until you get the fit you need. Put some thickened
epoxy in the oversized holes. Then insert the doweled piece, letting the
nooks and crannies line up the joint for you. As long as you use enough
epoxy to lock the dowels in the oversized holes, and smear some epoxy on
the nooks and crannies, you should have a pretty strong repair.

You could substitute some all thread for the dowels. Lots of built
in keys for the epoxy to grab onto.


I haven't seen the table personally, just that photo and it appears to
be a clean break which means it should line up. I thought of two
methods. One is simply using epoxy and reattach directly. The other is
as suggested with dowels or a rod for added strength. My only concern
was using a dowel was alignment but I like the suggestion of oversizing
for play.
Remove the "leg socket" from thetable.glue the socket back onto the
leg. THEN drill to install dowel, all-thread, lag screw, or whatever
and epoxy it in.

On 2/15/2020 9:16 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 17:20:32 -0500, Hawk wrote:

On 2/15/2020 4:19 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, February 15, 2020 at 3:30:01 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:
How would you approach this repair?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/

Those look like pretty rough surfaces.

Do the mating surfaces sort of lock themselves together? i.e. do all
the nooks fit precisely in all the crannies? If they do then alignment
should be easy.

Epoxy some dowels into one surface Since lining up the dowels in the
other piece could be problematic, drill oversized holes to give yourself
some play. Practice until you get the fit you need. Put some thickened
epoxy in the oversized holes. Then insert the doweled piece, letting the
nooks and crannies line up the joint for you. As long as you use enough
epoxy to lock the dowels in the oversized holes, and smear some epoxy on
the nooks and crannies, you should have a pretty strong repair.

You could substitute some all thread for the dowels. Lots of built
in keys for the epoxy to grab onto.


I haven't seen the table personally, just that photo and it appears to
be a clean break which means it should line up. I thought of two
methods. One is simply using epoxy and reattach directly. The other is
as suggested with dowels or a rod for added strength. My only concern
was using a dowel was alignment but I like the suggestion of oversizing
for play.
Remove the "leg socket" from thetable.glue the socket back onto the
leg. THEN drill to install dowel, all-thread, lag screw, or whatever
and epoxy it in.

According to the owner, the leg is permanently attached to the table. I
would need to cut that small piece still on the table, which I assume
you're referring as the socket. I would need to extend the dowels beyond
the leg and insert into the table then glue. Is that your idea?

On Saturday, February 15, 2020 at 9:57:07 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:
On 2/15/2020 9:16 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 17:20:32 -0500, Hawk wrote:

On 2/15/2020 4:19 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, February 15, 2020 at 3:30:01 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:
How would you approach this repair?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/

Those look like pretty rough surfaces.

Do the mating surfaces sort of lock themselves together? i.e. do all
the nooks fit precisely in all the crannies? If they do then alignment
should be easy.

Epoxy some dowels into one surface Since lining up the dowels in the
other piece could be problematic, drill oversized holes to give yourself
some play. Practice until you get the fit you need. Put some thickened
epoxy in the oversized holes. Then insert the doweled piece, letting the
nooks and crannies line up the joint for you. As long as you use enough
epoxy to lock the dowels in the oversized holes, and smear some epoxy on
the nooks and crannies, you should have a pretty strong repair.

You could substitute some all thread for the dowels. Lots of built
in keys for the epoxy to grab onto.


I haven't seen the table personally, just that photo and it appears to
be a clean break which means it should line up. I thought of two
methods. One is simply using epoxy and reattach directly. The other is
as suggested with dowels or a rod for added strength. My only concern
was using a dowel was alignment but I like the suggestion of oversizing
for play.
Remove the "leg socket" from thetable.glue the socket back onto the
leg. THEN drill to install dowel, all-thread, lag screw, or whatever
and epoxy it in.

According to the owner, the leg is permanently attached to the table.

Doesn't look very permanent to me. ;-)

On 2/15/2020 10:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, February 15, 2020 at 9:57:07 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:
On 2/15/2020 9:16 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 17:20:32 -0500, Hawk wrote:

On 2/15/2020 4:19 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, February 15, 2020 at 3:30:01 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:
How would you approach this repair?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/

Those look like pretty rough surfaces.

Do the mating surfaces sort of lock themselves together? i.e. do all
the nooks fit precisely in all the crannies? If they do then alignment
should be easy.

Epoxy some dowels into one surface Since lining up the dowels in the
other piece could be problematic, drill oversized holes to give yourself
some play. Practice until you get the fit you need. Put some thickened
epoxy in the oversized holes. Then insert the doweled piece, letting the
nooks and crannies line up the joint for you. As long as you use enough
epoxy to lock the dowels in the oversized holes, and smear some epoxy on
the nooks and crannies, you should have a pretty strong repair.

You could substitute some all thread for the dowels. Lots of built
in keys for the epoxy to grab onto.


I haven't seen the table personally, just that photo and it appears to
be a clean break which means it should line up. I thought of two
methods. One is simply using epoxy and reattach directly. The other is
as suggested with dowels or a rod for added strength. My only concern
was using a dowel was alignment but I like the suggestion of oversizing
for play.
Remove the "leg socket" from thetable.glue the socket back onto the
leg. THEN drill to install dowel, all-thread, lag screw, or whatever
and epoxy it in.

According to the owner, the leg is permanently attached to the table.

Doesn't look very permanent to me. ;-)


Touche'

On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 21:58:07 -0500, Hawk wrote:

On 2/15/2020 9:16 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 17:20:32 -0500, Hawk wrote:

On 2/15/2020 4:19 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, February 15, 2020 at 3:30:01 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:
How would you approach this repair?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/

Those look like pretty rough surfaces.

Do the mating surfaces sort of lock themselves together? i.e. do all
the nooks fit precisely in all the crannies? If they do then alignment
should be easy.

Epoxy some dowels into one surface Since lining up the dowels in the
other piece could be problematic, drill oversized holes to give yourself
some play. Practice until you get the fit you need. Put some thickened
epoxy in the oversized holes. Then insert the doweled piece, letting the
nooks and crannies line up the joint for you. As long as you use enough
epoxy to lock the dowels in the oversized holes, and smear some epoxy on
the nooks and crannies, you should have a pretty strong repair.

You could substitute some all thread for the dowels. Lots of built
in keys for the epoxy to grab onto.


I haven't seen the table personally, just that photo and it appears to
be a clean break which means it should line up. I thought of two
methods. One is simply using epoxy and reattach directly. The other is
as suggested with dowels or a rod for added strength. My only concern
was using a dowel was alignment but I like the suggestion of oversizing
for play.
Remove the "leg socket" from thetable.glue the socket back onto the
leg. THEN drill to install dowel, all-thread, lag screw, or whatever
and epoxy it in.

According to the owner, the leg is permanently attached to the table. I
would need to cut that small piece still on the table, which I assume
you're referring as the socket. I would need to extend the dowels beyond
the leg and insert into the table then glue. Is that your idea?
Yes. It half looks loke the top of the leg is a bracket screwed to
the table - which was why I gave the second alternative. getting the
hole lined up properly will NOT be simpleif it is not but one way is
to hold the leg in position and with a ling THIN dril,l drill in from
the top to make a pilot hole - then follow the pilot both ways with a
forstner bit. A 1/8" or smaller hole in the top should not be hard to
plug and hide.

On Saturday, February 15, 2020 at 8:57:07 PM UTC-6, Hawk wrote:

According to the owner, the leg is permanently attached to the table. I
would need to cut that small piece still on the table, which I assume
you're referring as the socket. I would need to extend the dowels beyond
the leg and insert into the table then glue. Is that your idea?

If the owner is so knowledgeable, then let them fix it. The leg is not permanently attached. Study it to see how it is to be disassembled, without damaging anything else.

I vote to remove the piece attached to the table and repair the leg, separately, then reinstall the leg. I like the lag screw approach.... I've done that before.

At least study the idea of removing the part attached to the table. That "permanently attached" aspect needs re-evaluating.

Sonny

Sonny

On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 21:58:07 -0500, Hawk wrote:

On 2/15/2020 9:16 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 15 Feb 2020 17:20:32 -0500, Hawk wrote:

On 2/15/2020 4:19 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, February 15, 2020 at 3:30:01 PM UTC-5, Hawk wrote:
How would you approach this repair?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/

Those look like pretty rough surfaces.

Do the mating surfaces sort of lock themselves together? i.e. do all
the nooks fit precisely in all the crannies? If they do then alignment
should be easy.

Epoxy some dowels into one surface Since lining up the dowels in the
other piece could be problematic, drill oversized holes to give yourself
some play. Practice until you get the fit you need. Put some thickened
epoxy in the oversized holes. Then insert the doweled piece, letting the
nooks and crannies line up the joint for you. As long as you use enough
epoxy to lock the dowels in the oversized holes, and smear some epoxy on
the nooks and crannies, you should have a pretty strong repair.

You could substitute some all thread for the dowels. Lots of built
in keys for the epoxy to grab onto.


I haven't seen the table personally, just that photo and it appears to
be a clean break which means it should line up. I thought of two
methods. One is simply using epoxy and reattach directly. The other is
as suggested with dowels or a rod for added strength. My only concern
was using a dowel was alignment but I like the suggestion of oversizing
for play.
Remove the "leg socket" from thetable.glue the socket back onto the
leg. THEN drill to install dowel, all-thread, lag screw, or whatever
and epoxy it in.

According to the owner, the leg is permanently attached to the table. I
would need to cut that small piece still on the table, which I assume
you're referring as the socket. I would need to extend the dowels beyond
the leg and insert into the table then glue. Is that your idea?
After zooming in on the picture, ot is NOT a remaveable leg - bur
with a senter finder you should be able to get the center of both
parts pretty accurately from the fractured end - and it looks like the
leg is vertical, not angled, so drilling the hole should not be too
difficult. I would drillthe hole inthe top a snug fit, and the hole in
the leg a LITTLE bit loose to allow accurate alignment and epoxyit all
together.

Instead of using epoxy the Rockler guy recommended using Gorilla Clear
water activated clear non-foaming to do wood repairs.
I have used it on my oak drawer and it seems to be good.

It takes two hours to set up and 24 hour for full strength.

I does not get brittle.

Does that seem like a good bonding method ?

I have several pieces I need to bond yet.

On Sunday, February 16, 2020 at 9:29:04 AM UTC-5, OtterGuy wrote:
Instead of using epoxy the Rockler guy recommended using Gorilla Clear
water activated clear non-foaming to do wood repairs.
I have used it on my oak drawer and it seems to be good.

It takes two hours to set up and 24 hour for full strength.

I does not get brittle.

Does that seem like a good bonding method ?

I have several pieces I need to bond yet.

Did the Rockler guy say why he recommended Gorilla Clear vs epoxy?

I'm not saying he's wrong, just always curious when one product is
recommended over another. If the recommender can't explain *why* one
is better than the other, or offers a really lightweight explanation,
I take the recommendation with a grain of salt.

On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 06:29:00 -0800, OtterGuy
wrote:

Instead of using epoxy the Rockler guy recommended using Gorilla Clear
water activated clear non-foaming to do wood repairs.
I have used it on my oak drawer and it seems to be good.

It takes two hours to set up and 24 hour for full strength.

I does not get brittle.

Does that seem like a good bonding method ?

I have several pieces I need to bond yet.

Given the paucity of information about it it appears to be a new
product. Between being new and being "Gorilla" brand I would avoid
it. Go with Titebond--it has a track record.

On 2/15/2020 2:31 PM, Hawk wrote:
How would you approach this repair?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/182239...posted-public/



Remove the top section that is still attached to the chair.
Glue it back on top of the leg.
Drill a relatively large holl through both and glue in the same sized dowel.

When repairing furniture I charge more per hour than for actually
building furniture.

What is the piece worth if now? How much more will it be worth if you
make it usable again?
Charge accordingly.

On 2/16/2020 10:55 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 06:29:00 -0800, OtterGuy
wrote:

Instead of using epoxy the Rockler guy recommended using Gorilla Clear
water activated clear non-foaming to do wood repairs.
I have used it on my oak drawer and it seems to be good.

It takes two hours to set up and 24 hour for full strength.

I does not get brittle.

Does that seem like a good bonding method ?

I have several pieces I need to bond yet.

Given the paucity of information about it it appears to be a new
product. Between being new and being "Gorilla" brand I would avoid
it. Go with Titebond--it has a track record.



Titebond III has proven well for my needs.

On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 06:29:00 -0800, OtterGuy
wrote:

Instead of using epoxy the Rockler guy recommended using Gorilla Clear
water activated clear non-foaming to do wood repairs.
I have used it on my oak drawer and it seems to be good.

It takes two hours to set up and 24 hour for full strength.

I does not get brittle.

Does that seem like a good bonding method ?

I have several pieces I need to bond yet.
It might be adequate. I've never used the stuff. Epoxy sets a bit
faster and to me is a "known entity". I know how it works and what to
expect and what it can and can't do. I don't know ANY of that for the
Gorilla product. Urethane glues on the whole do seem to be pretty
tough

On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 10:55:39 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 06:29:00 -0800, OtterGuy
wrote:

Instead of using epoxy the Rockler guy recommended using Gorilla Clear
water activated clear non-foaming to do wood repairs.
I have used it on my oak drawer and it seems to be good.

It takes two hours to set up and 24 hour for full strength.

I does not get brittle.

Does that seem like a good bonding method ?

I have several pieces I need to bond yet.

Given the paucity of information about it it appears to be a new
product. Between being new and being "Gorilla" brand I would avoid
it. Go with Titebond--it has a track record.

I use west system because I have it - - -

On Sunday, February 16, 2020 at 4:19:36 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 10:55:39 -0500, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Feb 2020 06:29:00 -0800, OtterGuy
wrote:

Instead of using epoxy the Rockler guy recommended using Gorilla Clear
water activated clear non-foaming to do wood repairs.
I have used it on my oak drawer and it seems to be good.

It takes two hours to set up and 24 hour for full strength.

I does not get brittle.

Does that seem like a good bonding method ?

I have several pieces I need to bond yet.

Given the paucity of information about it it appears to be a new
product. Between being new and being "Gorilla" brand I would avoid
it. Go with Titebond--it has a track record.

I use west system because I have it - - -

I used a lot of the West Systems 105/20x products when I was heavily
involved with the Soap Box Derby. Lots of the 4xx fillers too.

Lately I've been using their new-ish G-Flex product for a couple of
projects. Waterproof, can be used on wet surfaces, and can supposedly
"absorb the stresses of expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration".
We'll see. ;-) The one-to-one mixing ratio makes it easy to use for
any size project. No more pumps. It's kind of runny, but it takes
fillers well.

https://www.westsystem.com/specialty...ughened-epoxy/

I needed to repair the plastic tub of SWMBO's garden cart and the G-Flex
can be used with many types of plastics, so I gave it a try. My neighbor
cracked the rolled front lip while trying to dump a too-heavy load of
gravel. She paid me for the cart, so I repaired it, gave it back to her
and then pre-repaired the new one I bought for SWMBO.

https://i.imgur.com/b3MS6nl.jpg

Pex, with slots cut as keys, spanning the curved front to stiffen it up.
Added some 404 filler so it didn't run and flame treated the tub for better
adhesion. We'll see how long it lasts. Might not stand up to a load of
gravel, but it certainly made the front lip a lot stiffer.

Back to the topic at hand, if I was repairing that leg, I'd probably grab
the G-Flex instead of the Titebond. eBay seems to have the best price
since shipping is free. Cheaper than Amazon, even with Prime. Larger
sizes are available.

https://www.ebay.com/i/164077850538

On Sunday, February 16, 2020 at 5:40:16 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Back to the topic at hand, if I was repairing that leg, I'd probably grab
the G-Flex instead of the Titebond. eBay seems to have the best price
since shipping is free. Cheaper than Amazon, even with Prime. Larger
sizes are available.

https://www.ebay.com/i/164077850538

That's a good price. I pay $30 +tips at the local marine shop for G-Flex 650.

Sonny

On Sunday, February 16, 2020 at 11:58:24 PM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:
On Sunday, February 16, 2020 at 5:40:16 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Back to the topic at hand, if I was repairing that leg, I'd probably grab
the G-Flex instead of the Titebond. eBay seems to have the best price
since shipping is free. Cheaper than Amazon, even with Prime. Larger
sizes are available.

https://www.ebay.com/i/164077850538

That's a good price. I pay $30 +tips at the local marine shop for G-Flex 650.

Sonny

Marine supply shops are usually the most expensive place to buy these
types of items. Back before online shopping was the norm, I used to buy
all my epoxy supplies at a local marine shop. When I compare prices today,
it would have to be a serious epoxy emergency for me to shop there. Even
on-line they are much more expensive than other sources.

I wonder how much they'd charge you for the 51 gallon size. ;-)