I bought a few planes and a honing guide at some garage sales (total
expenditure $12), and have been having fun playing with them; but have some
questions.

1) What is a short plane good for; why would you want to use a #4 rather
than a #5? Wouldn't that be like using a short jointer when a long one is
available? I suppose it is lighter, but what else.
2) One of the Stanley planes came with a Dunlap iron. Is that likely to be
better or worse than the Stanley irons?
3) An article in a "Fine Woodworking" book said that a hair's width off
perfectly flat on a #5 might be okay for rough work, but for precision work
it has to be better than that. Is this to be taken seriously?! I find it
hard to believe that a hair's width could even be measured over 14" (by the
home woodworker anyways), let alone make a difference.

"toller" wrote

3) An article in a "Fine Woodworking" book said that a hair's width off
perfectly flat on a #5 might be okay for rough work, but for precision
work
it has to be better than that. Is this to be taken seriously?! I find it
hard to believe that a hair's width could even be measured over 14" (by
the
home woodworker anyways), let alone make a difference.

All planes, no matter how flat their soles, can plane a concave edge.

The radius is proportional to the square of the length divided by the set.

However, flatness is important partially because it is essential that the
front lip of the mouth makes firm contact with the wood.

Jeff G
--
Jeff Gorman - West Yorkshire - UK
Username for email is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
Website - amgron.clara.net

Difficult to imagine better sources than
http://www.amgron.clara.net/
http://www.supertool.com/


"toller" wrote in message
...
I bought a few planes and a honing guide at some garage sales (total
expenditure $12), and have been having fun playing with them; but have
some
questions.

1) What is a short plane good for; why would you want to use a #4 rather
than a #5? Wouldn't that be like using a short jointer when a long one is
available? I suppose it is lighter, but what else.
2) One of the Stanley planes came with a Dunlap iron. Is that likely to be
better or worse than the Stanley irons?
3) An article in a "Fine Woodworking" book said that a hair's width off
perfectly flat on a #5 might be okay for rough work, but for precision
work
it has to be better than that. Is this to be taken seriously?! I find it
hard to believe that a hair's width could even be measured over 14" (by
the
home woodworker anyways), let alone make a difference.

patriarch wrote:

"toller" wrote in
:

I bought a few planes and a honing guide at some garage sales (total
expenditure $12), and have been having fun playing with them; but have
some questions.


Hello. My handle is Patriarch. It's been 41 days since I bought a
handplane......

are they consecutive days?

"toller" wrote in message
...
I bought a few planes and a honing guide at some garage sales (total
expenditure $12), and have been having fun playing with them; but have
some
questions.

1) What is a short plane good for; why would you want to use a #4 rather
than a #5? Wouldn't that be like using a short jointer when a long one is
available? I suppose it is lighter, but what else.

Shorter planes are used for final smoothing. The shorter length allows the
plane to follow the ridges and valleys on the surface, removing material and
creating a smooth surface. This is why #1 to #4 planes are dubbed
"smoothers". Longer planes (like the #5 jack or the #6 fore and the #7 & #8
jointers) are used to remove the hills. The longer length means they will
NOT follow the surface, but will rather work to make the surface flat by
taking off the tops of the hills. If you're following me, you can see the
difference in their use. Of course, if you set up a #5 with a very tight
mouth and very sharp iron you can use it as a smoother, assuming your
surface is flat enough. I often use a #5 or even my #6 to smooth large
panels, simply due to the size issue. Having various lengths available,
however, gives you more versatility. The different weights, lengths,
widths, etc. offer you the option to choose the best plane for the job.
Also, don't forget about the blade angle. For difficult woods, you often
need a higher angle to avoid tear-out. Also, using a plane to shoot the end
grain of boards might necessitate a low-angle plane, or a miter plane. It's
a neverending struggle, but it's a lot of fun :-). And this is all coming
from someone with only about 3 years of hand tool experience, with only the
last one being very serious.


2) One of the Stanley planes came with a Dunlap iron. Is that likely to be
better or worse than the Stanley irons?

I have no idea about Dunlap irons, but there are better irons available from
Hock and others. I have several older Stanley planes with Stanley irons,
and generally speaking, those irons don't hold up quite as well as the newer
irons in my Lie-Nielsen and other planes. But, the thing to do is flatten
and hone the iron and try it and see how it goes.

3) An article in a "Fine Woodworking" book said that a hair's width off
perfectly flat on a #5 might be okay for rough work, but for precision
work
it has to be better than that. Is this to be taken seriously?! I find it
hard to believe that a hair's width could even be measured over 14" (by
the
home woodworker anyways), let alone make a difference.

I haven't seen that article, but it does sound a bit ridiculous to me. You
do need the sole to be flat, but talking about hair's widths is going a bit
overboard, IMO. There are several woodworkers out there with immensely more
experience than I have that say similar things about not needing it to be
perfect. There are critical areas that DO affect performance more than
others, however, so you have to keep that in mind (just in front of the
mouth, for example).

The other post with the links should give you some good ideas, especially
the first one.

Mike

It's not a clear size equals task sort of thing, but what you'll find is that
you tend to start with a short coarsely set plane like a #40 scrub to knock down
just the obvious hi spots then jump up to medium set #7 jointer sized plane to
work over the entire surface more thoroughly because it will bridge across the
low areas and bring down the more subtle high spots. Once you're taking nice
full length curls, move to a finely set #4 smother size to get your final
finish.

Of course every craftsman has his or her favorite planes for various situations
and often the wood dictates some plane selection. I don't own a scrub plane so
I usually open up the mouth on a #5 jack instead. A #6 or #8 would work
basically as well as a #7 jointer. I tend to use a wider #4 1/2 smothing plane
more often than a #3 or #4.

The thing you will begin to learn is that some simple tuning issues impact the
performance of a plane a great deal, others not as much depending on what level
of performance you try to get from a specific plane.

My advise is to jump in and let your struggles teach you a few things, read the
archives of some forums dedicated to hand tools like the one at woodcentral.com,
resolve to learn to sharpen your tools. Scarry sharp method is an inexpensive
option worth trying. Have fun!

David



In article , toller says...

I bought a few planes and a honing guide at some garage sales (total
expenditure $12), and have been having fun playing with them; but have some
questions.

1) What is a short plane good for; why would you want to use a #4 rather
than a #5? Wouldn't that be like using a short jointer when a long one is
available? I suppose it is lighter, but what else.
2) One of the Stanley planes came with a Dunlap iron. Is that likely to be
better or worse than the Stanley irons?
3) An article in a "Fine Woodworking" book said that a hair's width off
perfectly flat on a #5 might be okay for rough work, but for precision work
it has to be better than that. Is this to be taken seriously?! I find it
hard to believe that a hair's width could even be measured over 14" (by the
home woodworker anyways), let alone make a difference.

"toller" wrote in
:

I bought a few planes and a honing guide at some garage sales (total
expenditure $12), and have been having fun playing with them; but have
some questions.


Hello. My handle is Patriarch. It's been 41 days since I bought a
handplane......

patriarch wrote:

"toller" wrote in
:


I bought a few planes and a honing guide at some garage sales (total
expenditure $12), and have been having fun playing with them; but have
some questions.



Hello. My handle is Patriarch. It's been 41 days since I bought a
handplane......


My name is Joe, and it's been 3 days, but it was only a woodie.

Richard Clements wrote in
:

patriarch wrote:

"toller" wrote in
:

I bought a few planes and a honing guide at some garage sales (total
expenditure $12), and have been having fun playing with them; but have
some questions.


Hello. My handle is Patriarch. It's been 41 days since I bought a
handplane......

are they consecutive days?

It doesn't matter. I fell off the wagon a few minutes ago, when ordering
'a few little items' from Lee Valley.

A new low angle smoother, with an additional high angle blade, is on the
way.

Patriarch

Take a look at "The Handplane Book" by Garrett Hack. It's goes
through the various types of planes and their uses and has a lot of
information about old Stanley style planes.

On Wed, 04 Aug 2004 12:11:56 -0400, Joe Gorman
wrote:

Hello. My handle is Patriarch. It's been 41 days since I bought a
handplane......


My name is Joe, and it's been 3 days, but it was only a woodie.

Try bidding low on eBay. All the fun of shopping, but you rarely
actually need to pay for the thing and if you do, you got a real
bargain !


Wonder if I'll get the #62, the #101 1/2 or the #10 1/4 ? 8-)

On Wed, 04 Aug 2004 16:45:10 GMT, patriarch
wrote:

Richard Clements wrote in
:

patriarch wrote:

"toller" wrote in
:

I bought a few planes and a honing guide at some garage sales (total
expenditure $12), and have been having fun playing with them; but have
some questions.


Hello. My handle is Patriarch. It's been 41 days since I bought a
handplane......

are they consecutive days?

It doesn't matter. I fell off the wagon a few minutes ago, when ordering
'a few little items' from Lee Valley.

A new low angle smoother, with an additional high angle blade, is on the
way.

Heh. There ought to be a support group or something. Or maybe this
is as good as it gets? I just got a shipment from LV today - Hirsch
firmers and the some accessories for the LA block. "That's
Entertainmeeeent"

JP
****************
It's only just begun.

Jay Pique wrote in
:

Heh. There ought to be a support group or something. Or maybe this
is as good as it gets? I just got a shipment from LV today - Hirsch
firmers and the some accessories for the LA block. "That's
Entertainmeeeent"

JP


I thought we were the Lee Valley support group?

Hope you got the chamfering attachment for the LA block, that's one nifty
little gadget (and plane, 'course ...)

Regards,
JT

On Wed, 4 Aug 2004 21:53:17 +0000 (UTC), John Thomas
wrote:

Jay Pique wrote in
:

Heh. There ought to be a support group or something. Or maybe this
is as good as it gets? I just got a shipment from LV today - Hirsch
firmers and the some accessories for the LA block. "That's
Entertainmeeeent"

JP


I thought we were the Lee Valley support group?

Yikes. Are you all professionals, or did you stay at a Holiday Inn
Express last night?

Hope you got the chamfering attachment for the LA block, that's one nifty
little gadget (and plane, 'course ...)

Yep - I got that and the ball and tail knobs. It's my first plane and
so far I'm a huge fan.

JP

My name is Patrick. That's the icky version of Patriarch.
I haven't bought a hand plane in 3 months. But even then it was only
the $29 foot print, that I could afford. And then after 3.0 hrs
worth of flattening the sole, flattening the iron. Changing the
bevel angle and then some serious honing. I could actually plane oak
and it did a pretty decent job. It did a god job of smoothing the
face and edge. It even did a good job of planing end grain.

Someday the hair will grow back on my arm, and the nicks on my fingers
will eventually heal. Ya know - testing...

I think the reason it started out as a crappy plane, had something to
do with the 25 degree bed angle, compounded with the 25 and 30 degree
bevels. "Try pushing that sucker on oak"... I went with a
single bevel about 18 to 20 degrees. Then put a mirror surface on
both sides of the iron. Goes through oak quite easily.

Oh well, back to the Lee Valley Catalogue and some dreaming....
Maybe someday "assuming I stop buying wood" I'll be able to afford a
real plane. Preferably one that's made by Hawaiian Airlines and
takes me to the Big Island for the rest of my life.

PM


On Wed, 04 Aug 2004 19:27:53 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Wed, 04 Aug 2004 12:11:56 -0400, Joe Gorman
wrote:

Hello. My handle is Patriarch. It's been 41 days since I bought a
handplane......


My name is Joe, and it's been 3 days, but it was only a woodie.

Try bidding low on eBay. All the fun of shopping, but you rarely
actually need to pay for the thing and if you do, you got a real
bargain !


Wonder if I'll get the #62, the #101 1/2 or the #10 1/4 ? 8-)

A typical hair is .001 to .002 thick. A plane will bend more than that in
use.

"Mike in Mystic" wrote in message news:jH5Qc.3401
I haven't seen that article, but it does sound a bit ridiculous to me. You
do need the sole to be flat, but talking about hair's widths is going a
bit
overboard, IMO. There are several woodworkers out there with immensely
more
experience than I have that say similar things about not needing it to be
perfect. There are critical areas that DO affect performance more than
others, however, so you have to keep that in mind (just in front of the
mouth, for example).

The other post with the links should give you some good ideas, especially
the first one.

Mike

patriarch wrote in
6:

Richard Clements wrote in
:

patriarch wrote:

"toller" wrote in
:

I bought a few planes and a honing guide at some garage sales
(total expenditure $12), and have been having fun playing with
them; but have some questions.


Hello. My handle is Patriarch. It's been 41 days since I bought a
handplane......

are they consecutive days?

It doesn't matter. I fell off the wagon a few minutes ago, when
ordering 'a few little items' from Lee Valley.

A new low angle smoother, with an additional high angle blade, is on
the way.

Patriarch

First I was planing only on the weekends...with my friends, c'mon one's
not gonna kill ya, then I started planing during the week...then later on
I would find myself planing alone, I tried to tell myself that I could
stop anytime I wanted....I was still in control or so I thought...then
came the others...jacks jointers scrubs, anywhere I could find them, I
bought, and bought and bought, I was hiding them from my family, I could
hear them whispering, knowing I was different...that I had a "problem" I
told them they were crazy, I was just fine, leave me alone I am just
fine....

Sure is a slippery slope...but i am much better now...

DCH

On Wed, 04 Aug 2004 15:25:37 GMT, patriarch
calmly ranted:

"toller" wrote in
:

I bought a few planes and a honing guide at some garage sales (total
expenditure $12), and have been having fun playing with them; but have
some questions.


Hello. My handle is Patriarch. It's been 41 days since I bought a
handplane......

Keep Coming Back!

(Came to believe that a cast iron greater than ourselves...)

- - -
Brain cells come and brain cells go, but fat cells live forever.
---
http://diversify.com Website Application Programming for YOU!

My name is Patrick. That's the icky version of Patriarch.
I haven't bought a hand plane in 3 months. But even then it was only
the $29 foot print, that I could afford. And then after 3.0 hrs
worth of flattening the sole, flattening the iron. Changing the
bevel angle and then some serious honing. I could actually plane oak
and it did a pretty decent job. It did a god job of smoothing the
face and edge. It even did a good job of planing end grain.
Someday the hair will grow back on my arm, and the nicks on my fingers
will eventually heal. Ya know - testing...
I think the reason it started out as a crappy plane, had something to
do with the 25 degree bed angle, compounded with the 25 and 30 degree
bevels. "Try pushing that sucker on oak"... I went with a
single bevel about 18 to 20 degrees. Then put a mirror surface on
both sides of the iron. Goes through oak quite easily.
Oh well, back to the Lee Valley Catalogue and some dreaming....
Maybe someday "assuming I stop buying wood" I'll be able to afford a
real plane. Preferably one that's made by Hawaiian Airlines and
takes me to the Big Island for the rest of my life.


So you bought the Footprint H4 for $29 and completely tuned it "out the bazoo"
and it is now a perfectly fine working plane, as good as any other no matter what
brand, except maybe the iron not being a Hock A2... that teaches me something
about the cost of things and their necessity. Do a little studying on tuning, work
hard doing it and we'll be just as good. It is not so much the tool as it is the crafts-
manship. I suspected as much, and frankly, you get more of my respect.

Alex

"AArDvarK" wrote in
news:eeiQc.3009$yh.1696@fed1read05:

snip

So you bought the Footprint H4 for $29 and completely tuned it "out
the bazoo" and it is now a perfectly fine working plane, as good as
any other no matter what brand, except maybe the iron not being a Hock
A2... that teaches me something about the cost of things and their
necessity. Do a little studying on tuning, work hard doing it and
we'll be just as good. It is not so much the tool as it is the crafts-
manship. I suspected as much, and frankly, you get more of my respect.

Alex


It's true. A hack with a Clifton, or a Lie-Nielsen, or similar higher-end
plane is still a hack. A craftsperson, who tunes, and uses, his or her
tools, is indeed a craftsperson.

I admire those who imagine, envision, design, create and complete works of
art, and craft, and beauty. That they did it with tools we can't even
identify today, in many cases, indicates that we must pass on what we
learn.

That many here are firmly rooted in building the future in electornics and
communications, as well as discovering our heritage of hand tools and
working with woods, is somehow deeply satisfying.

Patriarch

"CW" no adddress@spam free.com wrote

A typical hair is .001 to .002 thick. A plane will bend more than that in
use.

Indeed, yes. For further details please see my web site - Planing Notes -
Plane Body Deflection.

Jeff G

--
Jeff Gorman - West Yorkshire - UK
Username for email is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
Website - amgron.clara.net

Actually it's the 220H.

The whole point is this. Some people cannot afford a $200 plane, let
alone a $100 plane. If that's the case, by a bargain plane and then
learn to make it work. Aquire the skills, and then if warranted and
you really want to keep woodworking, then look at investing in a good
plane.

Is it a perfectly fine wood working plane, that's as good as any
other.? No. I'd love to be able to own a couple of nice planes.
But it's more than adequate for the projects I do.

Regardless of what level of quality you purchase, your still going to
have to learn to give it (The Plane) some TLC. Based upon
everything I have read, and my limited experience, this is the most
important part of the equation.

What I have learned making this one work - will come in handy when I
do purchase a better quality plane.

PM




On Wed, 4 Aug 2004 20:56:46 -0700, "AArDvarK"
wrote:


My name is Patrick. That's the icky version of Patriarch.
I haven't bought a hand plane in 3 months. But even then it was only
the $29 foot print, that I could afford. And then after 3.0 hrs
worth of flattening the sole, flattening the iron. Changing the
bevel angle and then some serious honing. I could actually plane oak
and it did a pretty decent job. It did a god job of smoothing the
face and edge. It even did a good job of planing end grain.
Someday the hair will grow back on my arm, and the nicks on my fingers
will eventually heal. Ya know - testing...
I think the reason it started out as a crappy plane, had something to
do with the 25 degree bed angle, compounded with the 25 and 30 degree
bevels. "Try pushing that sucker on oak"... I went with a
single bevel about 18 to 20 degrees. Then put a mirror surface on
both sides of the iron. Goes through oak quite easily.
Oh well, back to the Lee Valley Catalogue and some dreaming....
Maybe someday "assuming I stop buying wood" I'll be able to afford a
real plane. Preferably one that's made by Hawaiian Airlines and
takes me to the Big Island for the rest of my life.


So you bought the Footprint H4 for $29 and completely tuned it "out the bazoo"
and it is now a perfectly fine working plane, as good as any other no matter what
brand, except maybe the iron not being a Hock A2... that teaches me something
about the cost of things and their necessity. Do a little studying on tuning, work
hard doing it and we'll be just as good. It is not so much the tool as it is the crafts-
manship. I suspected as much, and frankly, you get more of my respect.

Alex

...Patriarch... bought a $29 foot print crappy plane.....
after 3.0 hrs
worth of flattening the sole, flattening the iron. Changing the
bevel angle and then some serious honing. I could actually plane oak
and it did a pretty decent job. It did a god job of smoothing the
face and edge. It even did a good job of planing end grain.




So you bought the Footprint H4 for $29 and completely tuned it "out the bazoo"
and it is now a perfectly fine working plane, as good as any other no matter what
brand, except maybe the iron not being a Hock A2... that teaches me something
about the cost of things and their necessity. Do a little studying on tuning, work
hard doing it and we'll be just as good. It is not so much the tool as it is the crafts-
manship. I suspected as much, and frankly, you get more of my respect.

Alex



taking a sad case plane and bringing it up to good running user status
is a great way to get the basic education in plane mechanics, and you
get a plane at the end of it. there are some planes that just aren't
worth the trouble- the castings are too light, have too many voids,
*are* gonna crack on you if you look at them funny... there are the
ones with folded sheetmetal bodies, the ones that are just a block of
rust where was once a fine plane, woodies with big 'ol cracks in
them.... But there are lots of planes out there that with some care
and attention will make great users. in general I prefer to start with
an older stanley or such. just better design than a new cheapie. but
the bottom line is what it does to the wood when you're done with
it....

another think to thing about- you can make a plane for *any*
application from the ground up, in a wood body. another whole side of
the plane story...

wrote in
:

snippage

taking a sad case plane and bringing it up to good running user status
is a great way to get the basic education in plane mechanics, and you
get a plane at the end of it. there are some planes that just aren't
worth the trouble- the castings are too light, have too many voids,
*are* gonna crack on you if you look at them funny... there are the
ones with folded sheetmetal bodies, the ones that are just a block of
rust where was once a fine plane, woodies with big 'ol cracks in
them.... But there are lots of planes out there that with some care
and attention will make great users. in general I prefer to start with
an older stanley or such. just better design than a new cheapie. but
the bottom line is what it does to the wood when you're done with
it....

another think to thing about- you can make a plane for *any*
application from the ground up, in a wood body. another whole side of
the plane story...


The first handplanes in my shop were purloined from my father's toolbox. A
Stanley Handyman #4, and a Handyman block plane, of similar style. The
block plane had/has a big chunk broken out of the part the sits in your
palm when using it. Adds to the charm, and doesn't really detract when
using it.

I cleaned up those planes, flattened the soles and sides, and used them for
many of my first projects, when I 'moved up' from carpentry types of
projects three or four years ago. They went to my oldest son, when he
wanted to do some carpentry/homeowner projects, a couple of years ago. I
saw them yesterday evening. They need de-rusting and retuning. Which they
will get, because, after all, we stole them from Dad's toolbox...

Dad saw me using a LN block plane last year, when I was building my
mother's coffin, and commented that he was proud of my tendency to purchase
'heirloom quality tools'. I bought him a LV block plane for a Christmas
present. He asked me if he could keep it in my shop.

I built a couple of Krenov-style handplanes last winter. I'd been futzing
around with trying to build a wooden-bodied scrub style plane, for some
dumb reason. One of the good friends who often drops by the house/shop
asked if I could build him a smoothing plane, in that style. And he sent
over a load of maple and cherry 'for the wood racks', in appreciation. It
was one of the more satisfying projects I've done. About a #5 in size,
Hock blade, following the College of the Redwoods plan/model. Rock maple
body, with cocobolo base and jatoba wedge. The one I made for my bench is
the same size, with jatoba base and wedge. Parts for two or three more
bodies are in the 'project box' on the shelf. Still no scrub plane...

The accountant sees it as an expense. My wife sees it as therapy. I see
it as life.

Patriarch

Actually it's the 220H.

ahh... you paid too much: http://tinyurl.com/3jhr6
Alex

Hi Alex,

No, and I'll tell you why..

That's Amazon.com, not Amazon.ca "which doesn't sell tools".
As a result, you have to factor in the exchange rate CDN to US.
Last time I checked it was $1.40 CDN to $1.00 US. That get's you to
$28 bucks. Let's not forget about shipping fee's. Then add in
Federal Goods and Services Tax of 7%, and then the Provincial Sales
Tax of 8%. Then of course I would have to pay "Duty" cause it will
pass over the border etc.

Footprint Tools manufacturing plant is just outside of Toronto "They
actually have a website". i.e. Canadian Made tool.

As for the claim in the Amazon advertisement. The bed angle wasn't
even close to 21 degrees. I checked mine with a protractor and 25
degrees was being conservative. It's not being marketed "up here" as
a low angle block plane, and the company doesn't claim it's a low
angle block plane either. Nor do they make any claims about ability
to plane end-grain.

The base ground for accuracy. I spent an hour on mine "and I started
lapping with 220 grit paper" before switching to my stones, and the
base is still not even close to perfect.

Finger and Thumb grooves on the sides don't exist on mine or even in
the picture Amazon is showing you.

Plastic Knob - that's the only part of their advertisement that is
accurate.

And it's an ugly looking knob too..

Maybe I should have bought the Stanley - at least it looks like a
plane... {Smile}...




On Thu, 5 Aug 2004 22:27:00 -0700, "AArDvarK"
wrote:


Actually it's the 220H.

ahh... you paid too much: http://tinyurl.com/3jhr6
Alex

So sorry I didn't know you are in Canada... anyway the 220H shown
here on "our" amazon does not show finger-digs on the sides and does
show the plastic knob. I wouldn't buy the thing. I would buy their #5
though, but I'd rather have the Stanley 5 1/2 for width.

What is the bed angle... the place / bevel where the back of the blade
rests against the mouth [throat]?

Anyway, with all the plight [#3-noun] you have with this plane, you
STILL have entirely the proper attitude of a real craftsman. Okay? It is
what it takes to turn "nothing" into an actual "something". Don't let go
of it.

Alex
California
P. S. ... "noooooob" here. Just collecting tools so I can start learning.

On Thu, 05 Aug 2004 08:13:29 +0100, POP_Server=pop.clara.net wrote:

Indeed, yes. For further details please see my web site - Planing Notes
- Plane Body Deflection.

I'll take this opportunity to thank you for your website. I have learned a
great deal from you. Thank you.

--
"Keep your ass behind you"

I'll take this opportunity to thank you for your website. I have learned a
great deal from you. Thank you.

It is REALLY an awesome site, an entire school posted for free. I really appreciate that!
Alex