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#1
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A while back I asked for advice here about routing with a trammel setup. I finally got around to doing it and I'm pleased to say it worked out very smoothly.
My goal was an arc that was 35" wide and had a rise at the midpoint of 4.5".. SketchUp made this child's play to figure out. Simply drawing the curve and right-clicking on it got me the radius (36-9/32") with no calculations. But then I had to implement it, of course. That went well also. I made marks on my 1x12 oak 35" apart and a mark 4.5" inches in from the edge at the center of what would be the arc. I then turned the trammel upside down and measured along the center line 36-9/32" from the edge of the router bit and marked the spot for the pivot pin. I intended to use a 10 penny nail for the pin, but it fit just slightly loosely in the hole I drilled. This probably would have made almost no difference, but I found another item that fit the hole perfectly - the drill bit itself. The smooth shank, of course. I made 5 or six passes, using the stepped dial on my plunge router to set the depth for each pass. In the end, the curve passed exactly through the marks I had made originally. Success! Thanks to all who offered advice. Greg |
#2
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On Saturday, April 27, 2019 at 4:26:26 PM UTC-4, Greg Guarino wrote:
A while back I asked for advice here about routing with a trammel setup. I finally got around to doing it and I'm pleased to say it worked out very smoothly. My goal was an arc that was 35" wide and had a rise at the midpoint of 4.5". SketchUp made this child's play to figure out. Simply drawing the curve and right-clicking on it got me the radius (36-9/32") with no calculations.. But then I had to implement it, of course. That went well also. I made marks on my 1x12 oak 35" apart and a mark 4.5" inches in from the edge at the center of what would be the arc. I then turned the trammel upside down and measured along the center line 36-9/32" from the edge of the router bit and marked the spot for the pivot pin. I intended to use a 10 penny nail for the pin, but it fit just slightly loosely in the hole I drilled. This probably would have made almost no difference, but I found another item that fit the hole perfectly - the drill bit itself. The smooth shank, of course. I made 5 or six passes, using the stepped dial on my plunge router to set the depth for each pass. In the end, the curve passed exactly through the marks I had made originally. Success! Thanks to all who offered advice. Greg Photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...h/40749516093/ Video: https://youtu.be/C4UYbndf0pQ |
#3
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On Saturday, April 27, 2019 at 3:29:19 PM UTC-5, Greg Guarino wrote:
Video: https://youtu.be/C4UYbndf0pQ Excellent!! Good job. Now I'm gonna fuss you. You need to set up that work table, in the background. I suppose you might be pressed for space, but against the wall is no place for that table. Your shop kinna looks like mine, but less so, in that, a little bit of everything scattered about. Those are the best shops, though. Keep up the good work. Sonny |
#4
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On Saturday, April 27, 2019 at 4:26:26 PM UTC-4, Greg Guarino wrote:
A while back I asked for advice here about routing with a trammel setup. I finally got around to doing it and I'm pleased to say it worked out very smoothly. My goal was an arc that was 35" wide and had a rise at the midpoint of 4.5". SketchUp made this child's play to figure out. Simply drawing the curve and right-clicking on it got me the radius (36-9/32") with no calculations.. But then I had to implement it, of course. That went well also. I made marks on my 1x12 oak 35" apart and a mark 4.5" inches in from the edge at the center of what would be the arc. I then turned the trammel upside down and measured along the center line 36-9/32" from the edge of the router bit and marked the spot for the pivot pin. I intended to use a 10 penny nail for the pin, but it fit just slightly loosely in the hole I drilled. This probably would have made almost no difference, but I found another item that fit the hole perfectly - the drill bit itself. The smooth shank, of course. I made 5 or six passes, using the stepped dial on my plunge router to set the depth for each pass. In the end, the curve passed exactly through the marks I had made originally. Success! Thanks to all who offered advice. Greg Nice job and thanks for the video. I added one of these to my router and it sure does help. Of course, you need to layout where the hose will go, especially on a long rout like yours. It sucks (no pun intended) when the hose gets caught mid-rout. https://www.oneida-air.com/contractor-tools/router-hood |
#5
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The problem is that my only really large power tool has a Toyota emblem on it. And it takes up most of the garage. I have muddled through these past several years, not without my share of frustrations.
However, I am hoping to be about two years from retirement and I intend to set up a much larger shop elsewhere during that time in preparation. Can't wait. |
#6
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On Saturday, April 27, 2019 at 3:29:19 PM UTC-5, Greg Guarino wrote:
On Saturday, April 27, 2019 at 4:26:26 PM UTC-4, Greg Guarino wrote: A while back I asked for advice here about routing with a trammel setup.. I finally got around to doing it and I'm pleased to say it worked out very smoothly. My goal was an arc that was 35" wide and had a rise at the midpoint of 4.5". SketchUp made this child's play to figure out. Simply drawing the curve and right-clicking on it got me the radius (36-9/32") with no calculations. But then I had to implement it, of course. That went well also. I made marks on my 1x12 oak 35" apart and a mark 4.5" inches in from the edge at the center of what would be the arc. I then turned the trammel upside down and measured along the center line 36-9/32" from the edge of the router bit and marked the spot for the pivot pin. I intended to use a 10 penny nail for the pin, but it fit just slightly loosely in the hole I drilled. This probably would have made almost no difference, but I found another item that fit the hole perfectly - the drill bit itself. The smooth shank, of course. I made 5 or six passes, using the stepped dial on my plunge router to set the depth for each pass. In the end, the curve passed exactly through the marks I had made originally. Success! Thanks to all who offered advice. Greg Photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...h/40749516093/ Video: https://youtu.be/C4UYbndf0pQ Good plan. Great execution. Looks like a win! |
#7
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On Sat, 27 Apr 2019 16:03:30 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
wrote: The problem is that my only really large power tool has a Toyota emblem on it. And it takes up most of the garage. I have muddled through these past several years, not without my share of frustrations. However, I am hoping to be about two years from retirement and I intend to set up a much larger shop elsewhere during that time in preparation. Can't wait. ... another option - Look / ask around your area for a seniors woodworking center - - there are 2 or 3 within a 30 minute drive where I live - you will benefit from the quality machines and dust collection and the comradery. I've lapsed my membership but a few years ago my local small-town club was ~ $ 100. per year. This link is for a larger center nearby @ $ 225. per year - click on the thumbnail photos to link to more pics of their works. http://kwwcc.org/ John T. |
#9
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On 4/27/2019 3:26 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
A while back I asked for advice here about routing with a trammel setup. I finally got around to doing it and I'm pleased to say it worked out very smoothly. My goal was an arc that was 35" wide and had a rise at the midpoint of 4.5". SketchUp made this child's play to figure out. Simply drawing the curve and right-clicking on it got me the radius (36-9/32") with no calculations. But then I had to implement it, of course. That went well also. I made marks on my 1x12 oak 35" apart and a mark 4.5" inches in from the edge at the center of what would be the arc. I then turned the trammel upside down and measured along the center line 36-9/32" from the edge of the router bit and marked the spot for the pivot pin. I intended to use a 10 penny nail for the pin, but it fit just slightly loosely in the hole I drilled. This probably would have made almost no difference, but I found another item that fit the hole perfectly - the drill bit itself. The smooth shank, of course. I made 5 or six passes, using the stepped dial on my plunge router to set the depth for each pass. In the end, the curve passed exactly through the marks I had made originally. Success! Thanks to all who offered advice. Greg It's all in the prep. Good job! |
#10
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On Sun, 28 Apr 2019 11:13:25 -0400, wrote:
On Sat, 27 Apr 2019 16:03:30 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino wrote: The problem is that my only really large power tool has a Toyota emblem on it. And it takes up most of the garage. I have muddled through these past several years, not without my share of frustrations. However, I am hoping to be about two years from retirement and I intend to set up a much larger shop elsewhere during that time in preparation. Can't wait. .. another option - Look / ask around your area for a seniors woodworking center - - there are 2 or 3 within a 30 minute drive where I live - you will benefit from the quality machines and dust collection and the comradery. I've lapsed my membership but a few years ago my local small-town club was ~ $ 100. per year. This link is for a larger center nearby @ $ 225. per year - click on the thumbnail photos to link to more pics of their works. http://kwwcc.org/ That would be great. Any other charges outside the annual membership? |
#11
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On Sunday, April 28, 2019 at 11:12:05 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 27 Apr 2019 16:03:30 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino wrote: The problem is that my only really large power tool has a Toyota emblem on it. And it takes up most of the garage. I have muddled through these past several years, not without my share of frustrations. However, I am hoping to be about two years from retirement and I intend to set up a much larger shop elsewhere during that time in preparation. Can't wait.. .. another option - Look / ask around your area for a seniors woodworking center - - there are 2 or 3 within a 30 minute drive where I live - you will benefit from the quality machines and dust collection and the comradery. I've lapsed my membership but a few years ago my local small-town club was ~ $ 100. per year. This link is for a larger center nearby @ $ 225. per year - click on the thumbnail photos to link to more pics of their works. http://kwwcc.org/ John T. That looks like a great thing. It does not seem as if there are any shops like that convenient to NY City where I live. I found one several years ago in Connecticut, about an hour's drive from home. I thought at the time that it might even be worth the drive - there's a woman who rents time there who comes up from NYC on the train! - but I never actually tried it. An hour each way for a guy who isn't (quite) retired yet makes it a less attractive proposition. I am a part owner of a small building with space in the basement that is only used for storage at the moment. Between now and my retirement, I intend to set that up as a shop. There is more than enough space and it's walking distance from home. |
#12
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On Saturday, April 27, 2019 at 4:53:56 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, April 27, 2019 at 4:26:26 PM UTC-4, Greg Guarino wrote: A while back I asked for advice here about routing with a trammel setup.. I finally got around to doing it and I'm pleased to say it worked out very smoothly. My goal was an arc that was 35" wide and had a rise at the midpoint of 4.5". SketchUp made this child's play to figure out. Simply drawing the curve and right-clicking on it got me the radius (36-9/32") with no calculations. But then I had to implement it, of course. That went well also. I made marks on my 1x12 oak 35" apart and a mark 4.5" inches in from the edge at the center of what would be the arc. I then turned the trammel upside down and measured along the center line 36-9/32" from the edge of the router bit and marked the spot for the pivot pin. I intended to use a 10 penny nail for the pin, but it fit just slightly loosely in the hole I drilled. This probably would have made almost no difference, but I found another item that fit the hole perfectly - the drill bit itself. The smooth shank, of course. I made 5 or six passes, using the stepped dial on my plunge router to set the depth for each pass. In the end, the curve passed exactly through the marks I had made originally. Success! Thanks to all who offered advice. Greg Nice job and thanks for the video. I added one of these to my router and it sure does help. Of course, you need to layout where the hose will go, especially on a long rout like yours. It sucks (no pun intended) when the hose gets caught mid-rout. https://www.oneida-air.com/contractor-tools/router-hood That looks pretty interesting. Not expensive either. I hate when cables and such get snagged. I have a ceiling-mounted rack that holds lumber, tubing and the like. At some point I put some hooks on the bottom of it. I use those to hang lights and also to hang power cords for the tool I am using. It keeps it up and out of the way. I make sure there's just enough slack to allow the required movement. I think I may have "discovered" that idea when I was making a bookshelf unit some years back. It made the sanding so much easier. https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7632376881493/ |
#13
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On Sun, 28 Apr 2019 18:47:31 -0400, wrote:
On Sun, 28 Apr 2019 11:13:25 -0400, wrote: On Sat, 27 Apr 2019 16:03:30 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino wrote: The problem is that my only really large power tool has a Toyota emblem on it. And it takes up most of the garage. I have muddled through these past several years, not without my share of frustrations. However, I am hoping to be about two years from retirement and I intend to set up a much larger shop elsewhere during that time in preparation. Can't wait. .. another option - Look / ask around your area for a seniors woodworking center - - there are 2 or 3 within a 30 minute drive where I live - you will benefit from the quality machines and dust collection and the comradery. I've lapsed my membership but a few years ago my local small-town club was ~ $ 100. per year. This link is for a larger center nearby @ $ 225. per year - click on the thumbnail photos to link to more pics of their works. http://kwwcc.org/ That would be great. Any other charges outside the annual membership? Not sure about the big city KW Club - the small town club expected you to donate something to the annual Christmas fundraiser sale . John T. |
#14
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On Sun, 28 Apr 2019 17:15:19 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
wrote: On Sunday, April 28, 2019 at 11:12:05 AM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 27 Apr 2019 16:03:30 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino wrote: The problem is that my only really large power tool has a Toyota emblem on it. And it takes up most of the garage. I have muddled through these past several years, not without my share of frustrations. However, I am hoping to be about two years from retirement and I intend to set up a much larger shop elsewhere during that time in preparation. Can't wait. .. another option - Look / ask around your area for a seniors woodworking center - - there are 2 or 3 within a 30 minute drive where I live - you will benefit from the quality machines and dust collection and the comradery. I've lapsed my membership but a few years ago my local small-town club was ~ $ 100. per year. This link is for a larger center nearby @ $ 225. per year - click on the thumbnail photos to link to more pics of their works. http://kwwcc.org/ John T. That looks like a great thing. It does not seem as if there are any shops like that convenient to NY City where I live. I found one several years ago in Connecticut, about an hour's drive from home. I thought at the time that it might even be worth the drive - there's a woman who rents time there who comes up from NYC on the train! - but I never actually tried it. An hour each way for a guy who isn't (quite) retired yet makes it a less attractive proposition. I am a part owner of a small building with space in the basement that is only used for storage at the moment. Between now and my retirement, I intend to set that up as a shop. There is more than enough space and it's walking distance from home. My first woodworking "course" was an adult night course at a Toronto high school. Week 2 I walked in with a small truckload of rough cut pine & cherry from a back-home sawmill - just to get it planed for future projects .... The city folk who bought their little pieces of finished lumber at the city build-it-store were quite impressed .. the shop teacher less so .. John T. |
#15
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On Sunday, April 28, 2019 at 8:15:23 PM UTC-4, Greg Guarino wrote:
On Sunday, April 28, 2019 at 11:12:05 AM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 27 Apr 2019 16:03:30 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino wrote: The problem is that my only really large power tool has a Toyota emblem on it. And it takes up most of the garage. I have muddled through these past several years, not without my share of frustrations. However, I am hoping to be about two years from retirement and I intend to set up a much larger shop elsewhere during that time in preparation. Can't wait. .. another option - Look / ask around your area for a seniors woodworking center - - there are 2 or 3 within a 30 minute drive where I live - you will benefit from the quality machines and dust collection and the comradery. I've lapsed my membership but a few years ago my local small-town club was ~ $ 100. per year. This link is for a larger center nearby @ $ 225. per year - click on the thumbnail photos to link to more pics of their works. http://kwwcc.org/ John T. That looks like a great thing. It does not seem as if there are any shops like that convenient to NY City where I live. I found one several years ago in Connecticut, about an hour's drive from home. I thought at the time that it might even be worth the drive - there's a woman who rents time there who comes up from NYC on the train! - but I never actually tried it. An hour each way for a guy who isn't (quite) retired yet makes it a less attractive proposition. Look up Makerspace. There appears to be one with a woodshop in Brooklyn. There must be more than just these 5 Makerspaces in NYC. Google around a bit. https://blogs.cul.columbia.edu/dcip/...u-should-know/ Where in NYC do you live? I grew up in Flushing, right across the street from Queens College. I was lucky enough to have had a huge amount of green space right outside my front door. On the college land where we used throw the Frisbee in the summer and sled in the winter now stands a 5 story building. You could practically spit on it from my old front stoop. I'm glad I moved before it was built. I am a part owner of a small building with space in the basement that is only used for storage at the moment. Between now and my retirement, I intend to set that up as a shop. There is more than enough space and it's walking distance from home. |
#16
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On Sun, 28 Apr 2019 21:34:55 -0400, wrote:
On Sun, 28 Apr 2019 17:15:19 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino wrote: On Sunday, April 28, 2019 at 11:12:05 AM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 27 Apr 2019 16:03:30 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino wrote: The problem is that my only really large power tool has a Toyota emblem on it. And it takes up most of the garage. I have muddled through these past several years, not without my share of frustrations. However, I am hoping to be about two years from retirement and I intend to set up a much larger shop elsewhere during that time in preparation. Can't wait. .. another option - Look / ask around your area for a seniors woodworking center - - there are 2 or 3 within a 30 minute drive where I live - you will benefit from the quality machines and dust collection and the comradery. I've lapsed my membership but a few years ago my local small-town club was ~ $ 100. per year. This link is for a larger center nearby @ $ 225. per year - click on the thumbnail photos to link to more pics of their works. http://kwwcc.org/ John T. That looks like a great thing. It does not seem as if there are any shops like that convenient to NY City where I live. I found one several years ago in Connecticut, about an hour's drive from home. I thought at the time that it might even be worth the drive - there's a woman who rents time there who comes up from NYC on the train! - but I never actually tried it. An hour each way for a guy who isn't (quite) retired yet makes it a less attractive proposition. I am a part owner of a small building with space in the basement that is only used for storage at the moment. Between now and my retirement, I intend to set that up as a shop. There is more than enough space and it's walking distance from home. My first woodworking "course" was an adult night course at a Toronto high school. Week 2 I walked in with a small truckload of rough cut pine & cherry from a back-home sawmill - just to get it planed for future projects .... The city folk who bought their little pieces of finished lumber at the city build-it-store were quite impressed .. the shop teacher less so .. ^^^^^^^^^^^ Understood. I don't think I would be either. |
#17
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On Sun, 28 Apr 2019 17:15:19 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
wrote: On Sunday, April 28, 2019 at 11:12:05 AM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 27 Apr 2019 16:03:30 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino wrote: The problem is that my only really large power tool has a Toyota emblem on it. And it takes up most of the garage. I have muddled through these past several years, not without my share of frustrations. However, I am hoping to be about two years from retirement and I intend to set up a much larger shop elsewhere during that time in preparation. Can't wait. .. another option - Look / ask around your area for a seniors woodworking center - - there are 2 or 3 within a 30 minute drive where I live - you will benefit from the quality machines and dust collection and the comradery. I've lapsed my membership but a few years ago my local small-town club was ~ $ 100. per year. This link is for a larger center nearby @ $ 225. per year - click on the thumbnail photos to link to more pics of their works. http://kwwcc.org/ John T. That looks like a great thing. It does not seem as if there are any shops like that convenient to NY City where I live. I found one several years ago in Connecticut, about an hour's drive from home. I thought at the time that it might even be worth the drive - there's a woman who rents time there who comes up from NYC on the train! - but I never actually tried it. An hour each way for a guy who isn't (quite) retired yet makes it a less attractive proposition. I am a part owner of a small building with space in the basement that is only used for storage at the moment. Between now and my retirement, I intend to set that up as a shop. There is more than enough space and it's walking distance from home. That's my plan as well, though the basement is in my house. ;-) The only time I have is vacation, really. Fortunately, my employer has a really good PTO benefit (but not _that_ good). I'm ready now but I have about a year-and-a-half to go until I can convince SWMBO. ;-) |
#18
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On Sun, 28 Apr 2019 17:25:16 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
wrote: On Saturday, April 27, 2019 at 4:53:56 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Saturday, April 27, 2019 at 4:26:26 PM UTC-4, Greg Guarino wrote: A while back I asked for advice here about routing with a trammel setup. I finally got around to doing it and I'm pleased to say it worked out very smoothly. My goal was an arc that was 35" wide and had a rise at the midpoint of 4.5". SketchUp made this child's play to figure out. Simply drawing the curve and right-clicking on it got me the radius (36-9/32") with no calculations. But then I had to implement it, of course. That went well also. I made marks on my 1x12 oak 35" apart and a mark 4.5" inches in from the edge at the center of what would be the arc. I then turned the trammel upside down and measured along the center line 36-9/32" from the edge of the router bit and marked the spot for the pivot pin. I intended to use a 10 penny nail for the pin, but it fit just slightly loosely in the hole I drilled. This probably would have made almost no difference, but I found another item that fit the hole perfectly - the drill bit itself. The smooth shank, of course. I made 5 or six passes, using the stepped dial on my plunge router to set the depth for each pass. In the end, the curve passed exactly through the marks I had made originally. Success! Thanks to all who offered advice. Greg Nice job and thanks for the video. I added one of these to my router and it sure does help. Of course, you need to layout where the hose will go, especially on a long rout like yours. It sucks (no pun intended) when the hose gets caught mid-rout. https://www.oneida-air.com/contractor-tools/router-hood That looks pretty interesting. Not expensive either. I hate when cables and such get snagged. I have a ceiling-mounted rack that holds lumber, tubing and the like. At some point I put some hooks on the bottom of it. I use those to hang lights and also to hang power cords for the tool I am using. It keeps it up and out of the way. I make sure there's just enough slack to allow the required movement. I think I may have "discovered" that idea when I was making a bookshelf unit some years back. It made the sanding so much easier. https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguar...7632376881493/ This system is pretty slick. https://www.rockler.com/4-tracks-for-rockler-ceiling-track-system |
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