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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side Works Fine

The standard procedure for replacing the arbor bearings (or the arbor itself)
on a 60's/70's vintage Craftsman table saw is to either flip the entire
saw upside down or fight gravity and wrestle the innards out through the
back after disconnecting the tilt and height shafts, the rear trunnion and
a bunch of other parts.

There's no way I can (or want) to flip the saw over. I'd have to remove the
fence rails, the router table extension, etc. Even then I couldn't flip it
over on my own, so I wanted to try something different.

I decided to see if I could get the arbor out by going in through the side.
To get the arbor out you need to remove the rear bearing retainer ring (3
screws) and a c-clip. (shown below) To get the entire arbor assembly out,
all you need to remove is 1 e-clip. Then you can R&R the arbor on the
workbench. The problem is, it's really hard to get to the screws or the
e-clip from the back or bottom of the TS housing. That's why people flip
it over and remove other parts.

So, I broke out the oscillating tool and made an access hole:

https://i.imgur.com/PezhREp.jpg

After removing the belt pulley, I had access to the back side of the arbor.
You can see the 3 screws for the bearing retainer ring. On the right you can
see the link plate and the bottom of the e-clip.

https://i.imgur.com/rWYBXZ6.jpg

I popped the e-clip off of the link, slowly tapped the arbor assembly off
of the link pivot rod and height adjustment shaft. Once it was free, I
lowered the assembly out through the bottom of the saw and then removed
the arbor.

https://i.imgur.com/RXKBg2A.jpg

Since I had a spare arbor that already had a new front bearing on it,
I decided to use that and just add a new rear bearing. Once the rust
was removed from all mating surfaces and pivot shafts, the arbor assembly
slid right back in. No tapping required.

The only alignment issue that I ran into is that the blade is about 1/32"
off from it's original position. You can see here where it cut into the
zero clearance insert.

https://i.imgur.com/CypdReF.jpg

The insert was getting sloppy anyway, probably from the bad bearing. I have
a few blanks, so it's not an issue. I will need to do something about my
sleds though. I'll probably just glue a strip into the slot and re-cut
it.

The only thing left is to patch the hole in the housing. A piece of plywood
to cover the side will give me a place to hang feather boards and other
accessories that are currently taking up shelf space.

The saw is purring once again.







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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side WorksFine

On 3/16/2019 2:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
The standard procedure for replacing the arbor bearings (or the arbor itself)
on a 60's/70's vintage Craftsman table saw is to either flip the entire
saw upside down or fight gravity and wrestle the innards out through the
back after disconnecting the tilt and height shafts, the rear trunnion and
a bunch of other parts.

There's no way I can (or want) to flip the saw over. I'd have to remove the
fence rails, the router table extension, etc. Even then I couldn't flip it
over on my own, so I wanted to try something different.

I decided to see if I could get the arbor out by going in through the side.
To get the arbor out you need to remove the rear bearing retainer ring (3
screws) and a c-clip. (shown below) To get the entire arbor assembly out,
all you need to remove is 1 e-clip. Then you can R&R the arbor on the
workbench. The problem is, it's really hard to get to the screws or the
e-clip from the back or bottom of the TS housing. That's why people flip
it over and remove other parts.

So, I broke out the oscillating tool and made an access hole:

https://i.imgur.com/PezhREp.jpg

After removing the belt pulley, I had access to the back side of the arbor.
You can see the 3 screws for the bearing retainer ring. On the right you can
see the link plate and the bottom of the e-clip.

https://i.imgur.com/rWYBXZ6.jpg

I popped the e-clip off of the link, slowly tapped the arbor assembly off
of the link pivot rod and height adjustment shaft. Once it was free, I
lowered the assembly out through the bottom of the saw and then removed
the arbor.

https://i.imgur.com/RXKBg2A.jpg

Since I had a spare arbor that already had a new front bearing on it,
I decided to use that and just add a new rear bearing. Once the rust
was removed from all mating surfaces and pivot shafts, the arbor assembly
slid right back in. No tapping required.

The only alignment issue that I ran into is that the blade is about 1/32"
off from it's original position. You can see here where it cut into the
zero clearance insert.

https://i.imgur.com/CypdReF.jpg

The insert was getting sloppy anyway, probably from the bad bearing. I have
a few blanks, so it's not an issue. I will need to do something about my
sleds though. I'll probably just glue a strip into the slot and re-cut
it.

The only thing left is to patch the hole in the housing. A piece of plywood
to cover the side will give me a place to hang feather boards and other
accessories that are currently taking up shelf space.

The saw is purring once again.


Good job! I would suggest insuring that the blade is parallel to the
fence before cutting another zero clearance slot.


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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side Works Fine

On Saturday, March 16, 2019 at 6:19:46 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/16/2019 2:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
The standard procedure for replacing the arbor bearings (or the arbor itself)
on a 60's/70's vintage Craftsman table saw is to either flip the entire
saw upside down or fight gravity and wrestle the innards out through the
back after disconnecting the tilt and height shafts, the rear trunnion and
a bunch of other parts.

There's no way I can (or want) to flip the saw over. I'd have to remove the
fence rails, the router table extension, etc. Even then I couldn't flip it
over on my own, so I wanted to try something different.

I decided to see if I could get the arbor out by going in through the side.
To get the arbor out you need to remove the rear bearing retainer ring (3
screws) and a c-clip. (shown below) To get the entire arbor assembly out,
all you need to remove is 1 e-clip. Then you can R&R the arbor on the
workbench. The problem is, it's really hard to get to the screws or the
e-clip from the back or bottom of the TS housing. That's why people flip
it over and remove other parts.

So, I broke out the oscillating tool and made an access hole:

https://i.imgur.com/PezhREp.jpg

After removing the belt pulley, I had access to the back side of the arbor.
You can see the 3 screws for the bearing retainer ring. On the right you can
see the link plate and the bottom of the e-clip.

https://i.imgur.com/rWYBXZ6.jpg

I popped the e-clip off of the link, slowly tapped the arbor assembly off
of the link pivot rod and height adjustment shaft. Once it was free, I
lowered the assembly out through the bottom of the saw and then removed
the arbor.

https://i.imgur.com/RXKBg2A.jpg

Since I had a spare arbor that already had a new front bearing on it,
I decided to use that and just add a new rear bearing. Once the rust
was removed from all mating surfaces and pivot shafts, the arbor assembly
slid right back in. No tapping required.

The only alignment issue that I ran into is that the blade is about 1/32"
off from it's original position. You can see here where it cut into the
zero clearance insert.

https://i.imgur.com/CypdReF.jpg

The insert was getting sloppy anyway, probably from the bad bearing. I have
a few blanks, so it's not an issue. I will need to do something about my
sleds though. I'll probably just glue a strip into the slot and re-cut
it.

The only thing left is to patch the hole in the housing. A piece of plywood
to cover the side will give me a place to hang feather boards and other
accessories that are currently taking up shelf space.

The saw is purring once again.


Good job! I would suggest insuring that the blade is parallel to the
fence before cutting another zero clearance slot.


It's parallel to fence and parallel to the miter slots. None of that changed.
The only thing that changed is the location of the blade from a left-to-right
perspective and I think I have figured out why.

While cleaning up, I look a closer look at the old arbor. I noticed that
the c-clip behind the front bearing was not in its slot. It was still
around the shaft and the bearing was still tight against the flange that
contacts the blade. Somehow, all three of those parts had slid down the
shaft ~1/32" inch - basically the width of the c-clip.

Obviously, it's not anything that I could have seen prior to removing the
arbor so maybe it happened during disassembly. However, if I retrace my
steps, I can't think of anything I would have done to pop the c-clip out
of it's slot and move the flange and bearing towards the rear of the arbor.

When I hung the arbor by the flange in my vice and pounded the shaft down
to expose the c-clip slot, it took a few decent whacks to get the shaft to
move that small about. It wasn't like the flange was flopping around so I
don't see how disassembly could have moved it.

A flange that had slipped backwards would have taken the blade to the user's
left, which would explain why the new arbor placed it just a little bit to
the right of where it was.

A curious situation to say the least. In any case, I've adjusted the little
red line on my fence to compensate. ;-)

Inserts and sleds can wait another day.

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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side Works Fine

On Saturday, March 16, 2019 at 6:59:02 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, March 16, 2019 at 6:19:46 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/16/2019 2:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
The standard procedure for replacing the arbor bearings (or the arbor itself)
on a 60's/70's vintage Craftsman table saw is to either flip the entire
saw upside down or fight gravity and wrestle the innards out through the
back after disconnecting the tilt and height shafts, the rear trunnion and
a bunch of other parts.

There's no way I can (or want) to flip the saw over. I'd have to remove the
fence rails, the router table extension, etc. Even then I couldn't flip it
over on my own, so I wanted to try something different.

I decided to see if I could get the arbor out by going in through the side.
To get the arbor out you need to remove the rear bearing retainer ring (3
screws) and a c-clip. (shown below) To get the entire arbor assembly out,
all you need to remove is 1 e-clip. Then you can R&R the arbor on the
workbench. The problem is, it's really hard to get to the screws or the
e-clip from the back or bottom of the TS housing. That's why people flip
it over and remove other parts.

So, I broke out the oscillating tool and made an access hole:

https://i.imgur.com/PezhREp.jpg

After removing the belt pulley, I had access to the back side of the arbor.
You can see the 3 screws for the bearing retainer ring. On the right you can
see the link plate and the bottom of the e-clip.

https://i.imgur.com/rWYBXZ6.jpg

I popped the e-clip off of the link, slowly tapped the arbor assembly off
of the link pivot rod and height adjustment shaft. Once it was free, I
lowered the assembly out through the bottom of the saw and then removed
the arbor.

https://i.imgur.com/RXKBg2A.jpg

Since I had a spare arbor that already had a new front bearing on it,
I decided to use that and just add a new rear bearing. Once the rust
was removed from all mating surfaces and pivot shafts, the arbor assembly
slid right back in. No tapping required.

The only alignment issue that I ran into is that the blade is about 1/32"
off from it's original position. You can see here where it cut into the
zero clearance insert.

https://i.imgur.com/CypdReF.jpg

The insert was getting sloppy anyway, probably from the bad bearing. I have
a few blanks, so it's not an issue. I will need to do something about my
sleds though. I'll probably just glue a strip into the slot and re-cut
it.

The only thing left is to patch the hole in the housing. A piece of plywood
to cover the side will give me a place to hang feather boards and other
accessories that are currently taking up shelf space.

The saw is purring once again.


Good job! I would suggest insuring that the blade is parallel to the
fence before cutting another zero clearance slot.


It's parallel to fence and parallel to the miter slots. None of that changed.
The only thing that changed is the location of the blade from a left-to-right
perspective and I think I have figured out why.

While cleaning up, I look a closer look at the old arbor. I noticed that
the c-clip behind the front bearing was not in its slot. It was still
around the shaft and the bearing was still tight against the flange that
contacts the blade. Somehow, all three of those parts had slid down the
shaft ~1/32" inch - basically the width of the c-clip.

Obviously, it's not anything that I could have seen prior to removing the
arbor so maybe it happened during disassembly. However, if I retrace my
steps, I can't think of anything I would have done to pop the c-clip out
of it's slot and move the flange and bearing towards the rear of the arbor.

When I hung the arbor by the flange in my vice and pounded the shaft down
to expose the c-clip slot, it took a few decent whacks to get the shaft to
move that small about. It wasn't like the flange was flopping around so I
don't see how disassembly could have moved it.

A flange that had slipped backwards would have taken the blade to the user's
left, which would explain why the new arbor placed it just a little bit to
the right of where it was.

A curious situation to say the least. In any case, I've adjusted the little
red line on my fence to compensate. ;-)

Inserts and sleds can wait another day.


I've been thinking about the blade location a bit more and may have narrowed
it down to the root cause.

A major difference between the new arbor and the old is that the new arbor
has a rather hefty e-clip behind the front bearing...

https://i.imgur.com/M2C51MX.jpg

....while the old one had a wimpy c-clip:

https://i.imgur.com/tBsQDNQ.jpg

This saw is ~40 years old. I'm guessing that at some point the blade was
so over-tightened that the flange pushed against the bearing, the bearing
pushed against the wimpy c-clip, flexed it and popped it out of the groove.

If that is the case, then maybe Craftsman/Emerson Electric became aware
of this issue and beefed up the bearing support with the heftier e-clip.

I've had the saw for about 30 years and I'll admit that early on I used
to tighten the blade more than it needed to be. I may have been one of the
many reasons that the front bearing clip was beefed up.
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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side WorksFine

On 3/17/2019 10:05 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, March 16, 2019 at 6:59:02 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, March 16, 2019 at 6:19:46 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/16/2019 2:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
The standard procedure for replacing the arbor bearings (or the arbor itself)
on a 60's/70's vintage Craftsman table saw is to either flip the entire
saw upside down or fight gravity and wrestle the innards out through the
back after disconnecting the tilt and height shafts, the rear trunnion and
a bunch of other parts.

There's no way I can (or want) to flip the saw over. I'd have to remove the
fence rails, the router table extension, etc. Even then I couldn't flip it
over on my own, so I wanted to try something different.

I decided to see if I could get the arbor out by going in through the side.
To get the arbor out you need to remove the rear bearing retainer ring (3
screws) and a c-clip. (shown below) To get the entire arbor assembly out,
all you need to remove is 1 e-clip. Then you can R&R the arbor on the
workbench. The problem is, it's really hard to get to the screws or the
e-clip from the back or bottom of the TS housing. That's why people flip
it over and remove other parts.

So, I broke out the oscillating tool and made an access hole:

https://i.imgur.com/PezhREp.jpg

After removing the belt pulley, I had access to the back side of the arbor.
You can see the 3 screws for the bearing retainer ring. On the right you can
see the link plate and the bottom of the e-clip.

https://i.imgur.com/rWYBXZ6.jpg

I popped the e-clip off of the link, slowly tapped the arbor assembly off
of the link pivot rod and height adjustment shaft. Once it was free, I
lowered the assembly out through the bottom of the saw and then removed
the arbor.

https://i.imgur.com/RXKBg2A.jpg

Since I had a spare arbor that already had a new front bearing on it,
I decided to use that and just add a new rear bearing. Once the rust
was removed from all mating surfaces and pivot shafts, the arbor assembly
slid right back in. No tapping required.

The only alignment issue that I ran into is that the blade is about 1/32"
off from it's original position. You can see here where it cut into the
zero clearance insert.

https://i.imgur.com/CypdReF.jpg

The insert was getting sloppy anyway, probably from the bad bearing. I have
a few blanks, so it's not an issue. I will need to do something about my
sleds though. I'll probably just glue a strip into the slot and re-cut
it.

The only thing left is to patch the hole in the housing. A piece of plywood
to cover the side will give me a place to hang feather boards and other
accessories that are currently taking up shelf space.

The saw is purring once again.

Good job! I would suggest insuring that the blade is parallel to the
fence before cutting another zero clearance slot.


It's parallel to fence and parallel to the miter slots. None of that changed.
The only thing that changed is the location of the blade from a left-to-right
perspective and I think I have figured out why.

While cleaning up, I look a closer look at the old arbor. I noticed that
the c-clip behind the front bearing was not in its slot. It was still
around the shaft and the bearing was still tight against the flange that
contacts the blade. Somehow, all three of those parts had slid down the
shaft ~1/32" inch - basically the width of the c-clip.

Obviously, it's not anything that I could have seen prior to removing the
arbor so maybe it happened during disassembly. However, if I retrace my
steps, I can't think of anything I would have done to pop the c-clip out
of it's slot and move the flange and bearing towards the rear of the arbor.

When I hung the arbor by the flange in my vice and pounded the shaft down
to expose the c-clip slot, it took a few decent whacks to get the shaft to
move that small about. It wasn't like the flange was flopping around so I
don't see how disassembly could have moved it.

A flange that had slipped backwards would have taken the blade to the user's
left, which would explain why the new arbor placed it just a little bit to
the right of where it was.

A curious situation to say the least. In any case, I've adjusted the little
red line on my fence to compensate. ;-)

Inserts and sleds can wait another day.


I've been thinking about the blade location a bit more and may have narrowed
it down to the root cause.

A major difference between the new arbor and the old is that the new arbor
has a rather hefty e-clip behind the front bearing...

https://i.imgur.com/M2C51MX.jpg

...while the old one had a wimpy c-clip:

https://i.imgur.com/tBsQDNQ.jpg

This saw is ~40 years old. I'm guessing that at some point the blade was
so over-tightened that the flange pushed against the bearing, the bearing
pushed against the wimpy c-clip, flexed it and popped it out of the groove.

If that is the case, then maybe Craftsman/Emerson Electric became aware
of this issue and beefed up the bearing support with the heftier e-clip.

I've had the saw for about 30 years and I'll admit that early on I used
to tighten the blade more than it needed to be. I may have been one of the
many reasons that the front bearing clip was beefed up.

I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue. It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts replacement.


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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side Works Fine

On Sunday, March 17, 2019 at 1:58:46 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/17/2019 10:05 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, March 16, 2019 at 6:59:02 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, March 16, 2019 at 6:19:46 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/16/2019 2:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
The standard procedure for replacing the arbor bearings (or the arbor itself)
on a 60's/70's vintage Craftsman table saw is to either flip the entire
saw upside down or fight gravity and wrestle the innards out through the
back after disconnecting the tilt and height shafts, the rear trunnion and
a bunch of other parts.

There's no way I can (or want) to flip the saw over. I'd have to remove the
fence rails, the router table extension, etc. Even then I couldn't flip it
over on my own, so I wanted to try something different.

I decided to see if I could get the arbor out by going in through the side.
To get the arbor out you need to remove the rear bearing retainer ring (3
screws) and a c-clip. (shown below) To get the entire arbor assembly out,
all you need to remove is 1 e-clip. Then you can R&R the arbor on the
workbench. The problem is, it's really hard to get to the screws or the
e-clip from the back or bottom of the TS housing. That's why people flip
it over and remove other parts.

So, I broke out the oscillating tool and made an access hole:

https://i.imgur.com/PezhREp.jpg

After removing the belt pulley, I had access to the back side of the arbor.
You can see the 3 screws for the bearing retainer ring. On the right you can
see the link plate and the bottom of the e-clip.

https://i.imgur.com/rWYBXZ6.jpg

I popped the e-clip off of the link, slowly tapped the arbor assembly off
of the link pivot rod and height adjustment shaft. Once it was free, I
lowered the assembly out through the bottom of the saw and then removed
the arbor.

https://i.imgur.com/RXKBg2A.jpg

Since I had a spare arbor that already had a new front bearing on it,
I decided to use that and just add a new rear bearing. Once the rust
was removed from all mating surfaces and pivot shafts, the arbor assembly
slid right back in. No tapping required.

The only alignment issue that I ran into is that the blade is about 1/32"
off from it's original position. You can see here where it cut into the
zero clearance insert.

https://i.imgur.com/CypdReF.jpg

The insert was getting sloppy anyway, probably from the bad bearing. I have
a few blanks, so it's not an issue. I will need to do something about my
sleds though. I'll probably just glue a strip into the slot and re-cut
it.

The only thing left is to patch the hole in the housing. A piece of plywood
to cover the side will give me a place to hang feather boards and other
accessories that are currently taking up shelf space.

The saw is purring once again.

Good job! I would suggest insuring that the blade is parallel to the
fence before cutting another zero clearance slot.

It's parallel to fence and parallel to the miter slots. None of that changed.
The only thing that changed is the location of the blade from a left-to-right
perspective and I think I have figured out why.

While cleaning up, I look a closer look at the old arbor. I noticed that
the c-clip behind the front bearing was not in its slot. It was still
around the shaft and the bearing was still tight against the flange that
contacts the blade. Somehow, all three of those parts had slid down the
shaft ~1/32" inch - basically the width of the c-clip.

Obviously, it's not anything that I could have seen prior to removing the
arbor so maybe it happened during disassembly. However, if I retrace my
steps, I can't think of anything I would have done to pop the c-clip out
of it's slot and move the flange and bearing towards the rear of the arbor.

When I hung the arbor by the flange in my vice and pounded the shaft down
to expose the c-clip slot, it took a few decent whacks to get the shaft to
move that small about. It wasn't like the flange was flopping around so I
don't see how disassembly could have moved it.

A flange that had slipped backwards would have taken the blade to the user's
left, which would explain why the new arbor placed it just a little bit to
the right of where it was.

A curious situation to say the least. In any case, I've adjusted the little
red line on my fence to compensate. ;-)

Inserts and sleds can wait another day.


I've been thinking about the blade location a bit more and may have narrowed
it down to the root cause.

A major difference between the new arbor and the old is that the new arbor
has a rather hefty e-clip behind the front bearing...

https://i.imgur.com/M2C51MX.jpg

...while the old one had a wimpy c-clip:

https://i.imgur.com/tBsQDNQ.jpg

This saw is ~40 years old. I'm guessing that at some point the blade was
so over-tightened that the flange pushed against the bearing, the bearing
pushed against the wimpy c-clip, flexed it and popped it out of the groove.

If that is the case, then maybe Craftsman/Emerson Electric became aware
of this issue and beefed up the bearing support with the heftier e-clip.

I've had the saw for about 30 years and I'll admit that early on I used
to tighten the blade more than it needed to be. I may have been one of the
many reasons that the front bearing clip was beefed up.

I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue. It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts replacement.


Did you see my post where I said that the original clip was out of the slot
and that I had to move the shaft backwards/flange forward to get it back in?

The flange that supports the left side of the blade had moved to the left
from the user's perspective. If I put that arbor back in the saw now that
I've fixed it, the blade would move to the right, just like it is with the
new arbor.

I'm not saying the *nothing* would have moved had the original arbor been
"OK", but the fact the flange was physically out of position, in the direction
that fits the exact issue that I have, has to have contributed to it.

In any case, a new zero clearance insert has been cut and the strip is
drying in the big sled. Once I re-cut that slot, I'll move on to the smaller
sled. I don't think that I have any other jigs will be impacted by the new
blade position.

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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side Works Fine

On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:58:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue. It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts replacement.

Since the days of assembly line and interchangeable parts that should
NOT happen.

OP likely pushed the C clip out, as per his explanation, WAY back
before making his zero clearance inserts and sleds - before he got to
the point he knew his own strength and how tight things did NOT have
to be.
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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side Works Fine

On Sunday, March 17, 2019 at 7:14:09 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:58:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue. It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts replacement.

Since the days of assembly line and interchangeable parts that should
NOT happen.


In a perfect world, yes. In a world where the saw was built in ~1978
(by Emerson Electric) and the new arbor was bought in 2015, things could
have changed. In fact, things *did* change, as I showed with the old c-clip
version vs. new the e-clip version. The e-clip is thicker than the c-clip,
so something had to change to make it fit. I have no idea when that change
was made, but if it was changed because other users did the same thing that
I did, that may have taken a long time to be discovered. (I said *may*) It's
not inconceivable that by the time they made that change, the original
assembly line and process may have been long gone. (that's my point, BTW)

That said, I do think that the clip being pushed out caused some, if not all,
of the leftward movement, but I'm not willing to totally discount some change
due to the different manufacturing method.

Since we can't really retrace all steps, some part of this will remain a mystery.

In any case, all inserts and sleds are fixed, the hole in the side of the
housing has been covered and the saw purred through the rip cuts required
for the "filler strips" for the sleds.


OP likely pushed the C clip out, as per his explanation, WAY back
before making his zero clearance inserts and sleds - before he got to
the point he knew his own strength and how tight things did NOT have
to be.


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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side Works Fine

On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 17:31:13 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, March 17, 2019 at 7:14:09 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:58:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue. It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts replacement.

Since the days of assembly line and interchangeable parts that should
NOT happen.


In a perfect world, yes. In a world where the saw was built in ~1978
(by Emerson Electric) and the new arbor was bought in 2015, things could
have changed. In fact, things *did* change, as I showed with the old c-clip
version vs. new the e-clip version. The e-clip is thicker than the c-clip,
so something had to change to make it fit. I have no idea when that change
was made, but if it was changed because other users did the same thing that
I did, that may have taken a long time to be discovered. (I said *may*) It's
not inconceivable that by the time they made that change, the original
assembly line and process may have been long gone. (that's my point, BTW)


The "replacement parts" are "direct replacement" "upgraded" parts -
even from Emerson. 1978 is not "old" equipment in the woodworking
world. My last table saw was a Beaver made back in the late 40s or
early 50s. Any replacement parts I was able to source were identical,
bolt in parts. Even parts supplied by rockwell 50 years later.

That said, I do think that the clip being pushed out caused some, if not all,
of the leftward movement, but I'm not willing to totally discount some change
due to the different manufacturing method.


I'd bet on 99.9+% of the difference.

Since we can't really retrace all steps, some part of this will remain a mystery.

In any case, all inserts and sleds are fixed, the hole in the side of the
housing has been covered and the saw purred through the rip cuts required
for the "filler strips" for the sleds.


OP likely pushed the C clip out, as per his explanation, WAY back
before making his zero clearance inserts and sleds - before he got to
the point he knew his own strength and how tight things did NOT have
to be.

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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side Works Fine

On Sunday, March 17, 2019 at 9:30:25 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 17:31:13 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, March 17, 2019 at 7:14:09 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:58:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue. It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts replacement.
Since the days of assembly line and interchangeable parts that should
NOT happen.


In a perfect world, yes. In a world where the saw was built in ~1978
(by Emerson Electric) and the new arbor was bought in 2015, things could
have changed. In fact, things *did* change, as I showed with the old c-clip
version vs. new the e-clip version. The e-clip is thicker than the c-clip,
so something had to change to make it fit. I have no idea when that change
was made, but if it was changed because other users did the same thing that
I did, that may have taken a long time to be discovered. (I said *may*) It's
not inconceivable that by the time they made that change, the original
assembly line and process may have been long gone. (that's my point, BTW)


The "replacement parts" are "direct replacement" "upgraded" parts -
even from Emerson.


Upgraded means "different". Doesn't mean it doesn't fit/work, but it also
means that it's not identical. I guess you are trying to help me prove
my point.

1978 is not "old" equipment in the woodworking world.


Who said it was? I simply mentioned when the saw was built, when the arbor
was bought and the fact that they were different.

My last table saw was a Beaver made back in the late 40s or
early 50s. Any replacement parts I was able to source were identical,
bolt in parts. Even parts supplied by rockwell 50 years later.


That's nice. My part was not identical, even though it was sourced
from Sears, the same vendor that sourced the saw.


That said, I do think that the clip being pushed out caused some, if not all,
of the leftward movement, but I'm not willing to totally discount some change
due to the different manufacturing method.


I'd bet on 99.9+% of the difference.


If you don't think it was 100% of the difference, maybe, just maybe, the
remainder was caused by the replacement part. Thanks for helping me prove
my point again.


Since we can't really retrace all steps, some part of this will remain a mystery.

In any case, all inserts and sleds are fixed, the hole in the side of the
housing has been covered and the saw purred through the rip cuts required
for the "filler strips" for the sleds.


OP likely pushed the C clip out, as per his explanation, WAY back
before making his zero clearance inserts and sleds - before he got to
the point he knew his own strength and how tight things did NOT have
to be.




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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side Works Fine

On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 19:14:06 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:58:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue. It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts replacement.

Since the days of assembly line and interchangeable parts that should
NOT happen.


Google "manufacturing tolerances".

There's a reason that saws don't come with pre-cut zero clearance
inserts.

OP likely pushed the C clip out, as per his explanation, WAY back
before making his zero clearance inserts and sleds - before he got to
the point he knew his own strength and how tight things did NOT have
to be.

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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side Works Fine

On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 22:37:45 -0400, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 19:14:06 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:58:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue. It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts replacement.

Since the days of assembly line and interchangeable parts that should
NOT happen.


Google "manufacturing tolerances".

There's a reason that saws don't come with pre-cut zero clearance
inserts.


Thats why I didn't say 100% of the difference was caused by the
slippage of the old c clip. I allowed for a few thousandths of an inch
for manufacturing tolerances.

OP likely pushed the C clip out, as per his explanation, WAY back
before making his zero clearance inserts and sleds - before he got to
the point he knew his own strength and how tight things did NOT have
to be.

The difference between the proper "hand tight" and30 ft lbs will
make more difference than the few thousandths of an inch of
manufacturing tolerance. You can walk the blade edge significantly by
"dishing" the blade by overtorquing the blade.
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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side WorksFine

On 3/17/2019 6:14 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:58:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue. It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts replacement.

Since the days of assembly line and interchangeable parts that should
NOT happen.


When humans are involved in the assembly process there are issues that
can come up. Take two off of the assembly line and see of they are
precisely identical.



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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side WorksFine

On 3/17/2019 9:37 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 19:14:06 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:58:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue. It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts replacement.

Since the days of assembly line and interchangeable parts that should
NOT happen.


Google "manufacturing tolerances".

There's a reason that saws don't come with pre-cut zero clearance
inserts.




OMG did we just agree on something? Although SawStop TSs come with
precut inserts.


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On 3/19/2019 12:50 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/17/2019 6:14 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:58:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue.Â* It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts
replacement.

Â* Since the days of assembly line and interchangeable parts that should
NOT happen.


When humans are involved in the assembly process there are issues that
can come up.Â* Take two off of the assembly line and see of they are
precisely identical.




Just another thought on this. He had his TS blade aligned to the fence
with a worn out bearing. A new bearing will place the blade in a new
position.

Now Derby did have a reasonable explanation but gosh, why realign the
front end on a car after replacing ball joints or tie rod ends?


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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side Works Fine

On Tuesday, March 19, 2019 at 1:59:45 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/19/2019 12:50 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/17/2019 6:14 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:58:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue.Â* It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts
replacement.
Â* Since the days of assembly line and interchangeable parts that should
NOT happen.


When humans are involved in the assembly process there are issues that
can come up.Â* Take two off of the assembly line and see of they are
precisely identical.




Just another thought on this. He had his TS blade aligned to the fence
with a worn out bearing. A new bearing will place the blade in a new
position.

Now Derby did have a reasonable explanation but gosh, why realign the
front end on a car after replacing ball joints or tie rod ends?


I think you're on my side, but even I have to question your "new bearing
will move the blade" theory. Why?

In my case, the front bearing (good) was sandwiched between the flange
and a c-clip. The rear bearing (bad) was sandwiched between an e-clip and
a c-clip.

Since the bearings had to end up in the same position on the shaft, why
would a new bearing (either one), in and of itself, reposition the blade?
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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side Works Fine

On Tue, 19 Mar 2019 12:50:34 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/17/2019 6:14 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:58:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue. It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts replacement.

Since the days of assembly line and interchangeable parts that should
NOT happen.


When humans are involved in the assembly process there are issues that
can come up. Take two off of the assembly line and see of they are
precisely identical.


That depends on your definition of precisely, and identical.
You might find enough difference from the farthest off-spec one way
and the farthest off the other direction to be detectable with an
engineers rule
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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side Works Fine

On Tue, 19 Mar 2019 12:59:33 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/19/2019 12:50 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/17/2019 6:14 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:58:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue.* It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts
replacement.
* Since the days of assembly line and interchangeable parts that should
NOT happen.


When humans are involved in the assembly process there are issues that
can come up.* Take two off of the assembly line and see of they are
precisely identical.




Just another thought on this. He had his TS blade aligned to the fence
with a worn out bearing. A new bearing will place the blade in a new
position.

Now Derby did have a reasonable explanation but gosh, why realign the
front end on a car after replacing ball joints or tie rod ends?



Well, the tie rod ends are threaded in and adjustable - but I have on
MANY occaisions replaced 4 tie rod ends on a vehicle and ended up with
the toe-in(the only thing affected by the tie rods) accurate to within
1/16 of an inch - less than half the allowable tollerance.Even with
third party (non-oem) parts.

I've replaced ball joints and had them well within spec too.
Depends if the alignmenthad been screwed with trying to correct for
worn parts or not. If the front end was aligned with good parts, then
the parts ware, and the worn parts were replaced without re-aligning
first, there is no reason it can't go back together and be within
spec.

If Derby made the zero clearance inserts after the e-clip was knocked
out, it can't fit after replacement with the clip in place - that's
obvious. However, if he got a zero clearance insert from another saw
of the same model, without a shifted arbor, the insert would in all
likelihood be so close to a perfect fit you couldn't see the
difference.
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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side Works Fine

On Tue, 19 Mar 2019 17:00:35 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, March 19, 2019 at 1:59:45 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/19/2019 12:50 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/17/2019 6:14 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:58:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue.* It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts
replacement.
* Since the days of assembly line and interchangeable parts that should
NOT happen.

When humans are involved in the assembly process there are issues that
can come up.* Take two off of the assembly line and see of they are
precisely identical.




Just another thought on this. He had his TS blade aligned to the fence
with a worn out bearing. A new bearing will place the blade in a new
position.

Now Derby did have a reasonable explanation but gosh, why realign the
front end on a car after replacing ball joints or tie rod ends?


I think you're on my side, but even I have to question your "new bearing
will move the blade" theory. Why?

In my case, the front bearing (good) was sandwiched between the flange
and a c-clip. The rear bearing (bad) was sandwiched between an e-clip and
a c-clip.

Since the bearings had to end up in the same position on the shaft, why
would a new bearing (either one), in and of itself, reposition the blade?



Wouldn't unless it was REALLY wallered out. - way past the popint of
being "unuseable"
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On 3/19/2019 7:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, March 19, 2019 at 1:59:45 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/19/2019 12:50 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/17/2019 6:14 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:58:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue.Â* It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts
replacement.
Â* Since the days of assembly line and interchangeable parts that should
NOT happen.

When humans are involved in the assembly process there are issues that
can come up.Â* Take two off of the assembly line and see of they are
precisely identical.




Just another thought on this. He had his TS blade aligned to the fence
with a worn out bearing. A new bearing will place the blade in a new
position.

Now Derby did have a reasonable explanation but gosh, why realign the
front end on a car after replacing ball joints or tie rod ends?


I think you're on my side, but even I have to question your "new bearing
will move the blade" theory. Why?

In my case, the front bearing (good) was sandwiched between the flange
and a c-clip. The rear bearing (bad) was sandwiched between an e-clip and
a c-clip.

Since the bearings had to end up in the same position on the shaft, why
would a new bearing (either one), in and of itself, reposition the blade?



Worn bearings introduce play, especially with a load from the material
being feed. You adjust with the blade turning and work from there, if
the bearing is shot.

A New bearing will take out the play. Time to readjust.

I used to have the same saw that you have. I could adjust the blade to
the miter slot and then the fence to the slot. Cut results were
unpredictable. I finally got to where I would simply sneak up on the
right adjustment for the fence after making a test cut.


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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side WorksFine

On 3/19/2019 8:13 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 19 Mar 2019 12:59:33 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/19/2019 12:50 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/17/2019 6:14 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:58:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue.Â* It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts
replacement.
Â* Since the days of assembly line and interchangeable parts that should
NOT happen.

When humans are involved in the assembly process there are issues that
can come up.Â* Take two off of the assembly line and see of they are
precisely identical.




Just another thought on this. He had his TS blade aligned to the fence
with a worn out bearing. A new bearing will place the blade in a new
position.

Now Derby did have a reasonable explanation but gosh, why realign the
front end on a car after replacing ball joints or tie rod ends?



Well, the tie rod ends are threaded in and adjustable - but I have on
MANY occaisions replaced 4 tie rod ends on a vehicle and ended up with
the toe-in(the only thing affected by the tie rods) accurate to within
1/16 of an inch - less than half the allowable tollerance.Even with
third party (non-oem) parts.

I've replaced ball joints and had them well within spec too.
Depends if the alignmenthad been screwed with trying to correct for
worn parts or not. If the front end was aligned with good parts, then
the parts ware, and the worn parts were replaced without re-aligning
first, there is no reason it can't go back together and be within
spec.

If Derby made the zero clearance inserts after the e-clip was knocked
out, it can't fit after replacement with the clip in place - that's
obvious. However, if he got a zero clearance insert from another saw
of the same model, without a shifted arbor, the insert would in all
likelihood be so close to a perfect fit you couldn't see the
difference.



Well Yeah, many places would realign with out replacing worn parts.
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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side Works Fine

On Wednesday, March 20, 2019 at 7:04:49 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/19/2019 7:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, March 19, 2019 at 1:59:45 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/19/2019 12:50 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/17/2019 6:14 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:58:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue.Â* It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts
replacement.
Â* Since the days of assembly line and interchangeable parts that should
NOT happen.

When humans are involved in the assembly process there are issues that
can come up.Â* Take two off of the assembly line and see of they are
precisely identical.




Just another thought on this. He had his TS blade aligned to the fence
with a worn out bearing. A new bearing will place the blade in a new
position.

Now Derby did have a reasonable explanation but gosh, why realign the
front end on a car after replacing ball joints or tie rod ends?


I think you're on my side, but even I have to question your "new bearing
will move the blade" theory. Why?

In my case, the front bearing (good) was sandwiched between the flange
and a c-clip. The rear bearing (bad) was sandwiched between an e-clip and
a c-clip.

Since the bearings had to end up in the same position on the shaft, why
would a new bearing (either one), in and of itself, reposition the blade?



Worn bearings introduce play, especially with a load from the material
being feed. You adjust with the blade turning and work from there, if
the bearing is shot.

A New bearing will take out the play. Time to readjust.

I used to have the same saw that you have. I could adjust the blade to
the miter slot and then the fence to the slot. Cut results were
unpredictable. I finally got to where I would simply sneak up on the
right adjustment for the fence after making a test cut.


What kind of fence did you have? I fought the original for too long. Replaced
it with the Delta T3 and it was like buying a new saw. Very consistent.

I had to cut the rails due to the size of my shop. When I upgraded to the
Bosch Glide Miter Saw, I was going to sell my old Delta. I never got around
to it and glad I didn't:

https://i.imgur.com/GX8oHaZ.jpg
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On 3/20/2019 6:28 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 20, 2019 at 7:04:49 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/19/2019 7:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, March 19, 2019 at 1:59:45 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/19/2019 12:50 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/17/2019 6:14 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:58:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue.Â* It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts
replacement.
Â* Since the days of assembly line and interchangeable parts that should
NOT happen.

When humans are involved in the assembly process there are issues that
can come up.Â* Take two off of the assembly line and see of they are
precisely identical.




Just another thought on this. He had his TS blade aligned to the fence
with a worn out bearing. A new bearing will place the blade in a new
position.

Now Derby did have a reasonable explanation but gosh, why realign the
front end on a car after replacing ball joints or tie rod ends?

I think you're on my side, but even I have to question your "new bearing
will move the blade" theory. Why?

In my case, the front bearing (good) was sandwiched between the flange
and a c-clip. The rear bearing (bad) was sandwiched between an e-clip and
a c-clip.

Since the bearings had to end up in the same position on the shaft, why
would a new bearing (either one), in and of itself, reposition the blade?



Worn bearings introduce play, especially with a load from the material
being feed. You adjust with the blade turning and work from there, if
the bearing is shot.

A New bearing will take out the play. Time to readjust.

I used to have the same saw that you have. I could adjust the blade to
the miter slot and then the fence to the slot. Cut results were
unpredictable. I finally got to where I would simply sneak up on the
right adjustment for the fence after making a test cut.


What kind of fence did you have? I fought the original for too long. Replaced
it with the Delta T3 and it was like buying a new saw. Very consistent.


LOL. The tweaks we go through to make this saw into a usable one.

I ended up putting a Jet Exacta fence on it. A smaller version of the
one that was on my Jet cabinet saw. That required longer extension
wings which I built and covered with plastic laminate. My left and
right extension wings were both stamped steel although the table top was
cast iron. I also built a fold down out feed table and the saw sat on
top of a mobile cart with 3~4 drawers on each side along with a
compartment in the center that caught most all of the saw dust. With
the cart I no longer used the legs. I never replaced the 1 HP motor. I
recall it was difficult to make long cuts with out stalling the motor,
until I bought a quality regular kerf blade. I had been using
inexpensive think kerf blades.

I used the plans from WoodSmigh magazine for the folding out feed table
and mobile cart.

I could probably find the plans and send your way if you are interested.




I had to cut the rails due to the size of my shop. When I upgraded to the
Bosch Glide Miter Saw, I was going to sell my old Delta. I never got around
to it and glad I didn't:

https://i.imgur.com/GX8oHaZ.jpg


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Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side Works Fine

On Thursday, March 21, 2019 at 9:33:22 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/20/2019 6:28 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 20, 2019 at 7:04:49 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/19/2019 7:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, March 19, 2019 at 1:59:45 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/19/2019 12:50 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/17/2019 6:14 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:58:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue.Â* It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts
replacement.
Â* Since the days of assembly line and interchangeable parts that should
NOT happen.

When humans are involved in the assembly process there are issues that
can come up.Â* Take two off of the assembly line and see of they are
precisely identical.




Just another thought on this. He had his TS blade aligned to the fence
with a worn out bearing. A new bearing will place the blade in a new
position.

Now Derby did have a reasonable explanation but gosh, why realign the
front end on a car after replacing ball joints or tie rod ends?

I think you're on my side, but even I have to question your "new bearing
will move the blade" theory. Why?

In my case, the front bearing (good) was sandwiched between the flange
and a c-clip. The rear bearing (bad) was sandwiched between an e-clip and
a c-clip.

Since the bearings had to end up in the same position on the shaft, why
would a new bearing (either one), in and of itself, reposition the blade?



Worn bearings introduce play, especially with a load from the material
being feed. You adjust with the blade turning and work from there, if
the bearing is shot.

A New bearing will take out the play. Time to readjust.

I used to have the same saw that you have. I could adjust the blade to
the miter slot and then the fence to the slot. Cut results were
unpredictable. I finally got to where I would simply sneak up on the
right adjustment for the fence after making a test cut.


What kind of fence did you have? I fought the original for too long. Replaced
it with the Delta T3 and it was like buying a new saw. Very consistent.


LOL. The tweaks we go through to make this saw into a usable one.

I ended up putting a Jet Exacta fence on it. A smaller version of the
one that was on my Jet cabinet saw. That required longer extension
wings which I built and covered with plastic laminate. My left and
right extension wings were both stamped steel although the table top was
cast iron. I also built a fold down out feed table and the saw sat on
top of a mobile cart with 3~4 drawers on each side along with a
compartment in the center that caught most all of the saw dust. With
the cart I no longer used the legs. I never replaced the 1 HP motor. I
recall it was difficult to make long cuts with out stalling the motor,
until I bought a quality regular kerf blade. I had been using
inexpensive think kerf blades.

I used the plans from WoodSmigh magazine for the folding out feed table
and mobile cart.

I could probably find the plans and send your way if you are interested.


Is it this one?

https://www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/outfeed-table/

I made a slightly larger one (2' x 2') that slips under the back rail of
the Delta fence and has a gap for the rear tab/clip of the fence to slide
through.

For most cuts I can pull the saw straight out from it's storage spot and
let the back of the outfeed table rest on the workbench. When I need to
make longer cuts, I need to pull the saw out farther into the shop, so I
added a brace across the rear legs and I have board that sits at a 45,
supporting the rear of the outfeed table. When I move the saw, the outfeed
table stays with it. When I'm done, the table and board have nook that they
live in.

Like you said, tweaks. ;-)

The saw came with 2 stamped steel extension tables, but I don't have room
for the one on the left. I lived with the right side one for many years
but fairly recently added a router table in it's place. Holy crap, what a
great idea that was! ;-)

I struggled with bench top router tables for too long. My shop's too small
for a dedicated router table so the table saw addition is a huge improvement
and the homemade fence has dust collection built in.






I had to cut the rails due to the size of my shop. When I upgraded to the
Bosch Glide Miter Saw, I was going to sell my old Delta. I never got around
to it and glad I didn't:

https://i.imgur.com/GX8oHaZ.jpg


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Posts: 12,155
Default Craftsman TS Arbor Replacement - Going In Through The Side WorksFine

On 3/21/2019 6:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, March 21, 2019 at 9:33:22 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/20/2019 6:28 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, March 20, 2019 at 7:04:49 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/19/2019 7:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, March 19, 2019 at 1:59:45 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/19/2019 12:50 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/17/2019 6:14 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 17 Mar 2019 12:58:38 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


I think the fact that you R&R'd parts caused this issue.Â* It is not
unusual for the blade to be somewhere else after a major parts
replacement.
Â* Since the days of assembly line and interchangeable parts that should
NOT happen.

When humans are involved in the assembly process there are issues that
can come up.Â* Take two off of the assembly line and see of they are
precisely identical.




Just another thought on this. He had his TS blade aligned to the fence
with a worn out bearing. A new bearing will place the blade in a new
position.

Now Derby did have a reasonable explanation but gosh, why realign the
front end on a car after replacing ball joints or tie rod ends?

I think you're on my side, but even I have to question your "new bearing
will move the blade" theory. Why?

In my case, the front bearing (good) was sandwiched between the flange
and a c-clip. The rear bearing (bad) was sandwiched between an e-clip and
a c-clip.

Since the bearings had to end up in the same position on the shaft, why
would a new bearing (either one), in and of itself, reposition the blade?



Worn bearings introduce play, especially with a load from the material
being feed. You adjust with the blade turning and work from there, if
the bearing is shot.

A New bearing will take out the play. Time to readjust.

I used to have the same saw that you have. I could adjust the blade to
the miter slot and then the fence to the slot. Cut results were
unpredictable. I finally got to where I would simply sneak up on the
right adjustment for the fence after making a test cut.

What kind of fence did you have? I fought the original for too long. Replaced
it with the Delta T3 and it was like buying a new saw. Very consistent.


LOL. The tweaks we go through to make this saw into a usable one.

I ended up putting a Jet Exacta fence on it. A smaller version of the
one that was on my Jet cabinet saw. That required longer extension
wings which I built and covered with plastic laminate. My left and
right extension wings were both stamped steel although the table top was
cast iron. I also built a fold down out feed table and the saw sat on
top of a mobile cart with 3~4 drawers on each side along with a
compartment in the center that caught most all of the saw dust. With
the cart I no longer used the legs. I never replaced the 1 HP motor. I
recall it was difficult to make long cuts with out stalling the motor,
until I bought a quality regular kerf blade. I had been using
inexpensive think kerf blades.

I used the plans from WoodSmigh magazine for the folding out feed table
and mobile cart.

I could probably find the plans and send your way if you are interested.


Is it this one?



No.


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