I have a 70's era Craftsman contractors saw. 113.298031

When I move the blade by hand it feels "chunky". I took the belt off so that
I was just spinning the blade and arbor and it "hesitates" every 1/2" or so.
It doesn't spin freely even with the belt off. As I pull the blade along I
can feel a soft thump, thump, thump. No hard clunking, but it requires an
increase in pulling power to get it past those points.

See if this video works. I'm trying to move the blade with a constant amount
of pull and you can see the stop and go. (Yes, I'm turning it backwards, but
it does the same thing going forward.)

https://youtu.be/jy_4iQ9DE2g

I have a spare arbor (brand new) It has one bearing, the inside one near
the threads.

I guess I should order the outside bearing and tear the thing apart right?

From what I'm been reading, you're supposed take the entire arbor housing
out through the rear to get to the arbor bearing retainer screws. That
allows you to remove the outside bearing so you can slide the arbor
itself out.

Why not just cut a piece out of the sheet metal housing and do it all
from the side of the saw? As far as I can tell, that would give me direct
access to the 3 arbor bearing retainer screws. If I then covered the hole
with a piece of plywood (and sealed it up) I could hang all sorts of
accessories from the board. ;-) I'd also have easier access for future
maintenance/cleaning.

Other than destroying the re-sell value of a saw that I paid $110 for in
the mid-80's, is there any reason not to go in through the side?

On Sunday, February 10, 2019 at 5:46:31 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 70's era Craftsman contractors saw. 113.298031

Why not just cut a piece out of the sheet metal housing and do it all
from the side of the saw? As far as I can tell, that would give me direct
access to the 3 arbor bearing retainer screws.

Removing the assembly is two knobs and a dozen screws; it too gives
full access, including to parts you won't get to through a hole.
That seems to me quicker than making a hole, and neater.

On Feb 10, 2019, DerbyDad03 wrote
(in ):

I have a 70's era Craftsman contractors saw. 113.298031

When I move the blade by hand it feels "chunky". I took the belt off so that
I was just spinning the blade and arbor and it "hesitates" every 1/2" or so.
It doesn't spin freely even with the belt off. As I pull the blade along I
can feel a soft thump, thump, thump. No hard clunking, but it requires an
increase in pulling power to get it past those points.

See if this video works. I'm trying to move the blade with a constant amount
of pull and you can see the stop and go. (Yes, I'm turning it backwards, but
it does the same thing going forward.)

https://youtu.be/jy_4iQ9DE2g

I have a spare arbor (brand new) It has one bearing, the inside one near
the threads.

I guess I should order the outside bearing and tear the thing apart right?

From what I'm been reading, you're supposed take the entire arbor housing
out through the rear to get to the arbor bearing retainer screws. That
allows you to remove the outside bearing so you can slide the arbor
itself out.

Why not just cut a piece out of the sheet metal housing and do it all
from the side of the saw? As far as I can tell, that would give me direct
access to the 3 arbor bearing retainer screws. If I then covered the hole
with a piece of plywood (and sealed it up) I could hang all sorts of
accessories from the board. ;-) I'd also have easier access for future
maintenance/cleaning.

Other than destroying the re-sell value of a saw that I paid $110 for in
the mid-80's, is there any reason not to go in through the side?

Yes, the arbor bearings are toast. I´ve had this problem. There is no need
to cut through the side sheet metal to get the arbor out. It went together
without doing any such thing. It´s best to take the wings et al off and
turn the saw upside-down on a workbench.

On mine, the hard part was taking the arbor itself apart. I had to make a
special spanner wrench (using a metal lathe and a vertical mill) to unscrew
the ring nut that holds everything in. I looked up your unit - no special
tool needed.

When you have the bearings out, take them to a local bearing place to be
matched. Then put it all back together.

There are places that will replace the bearings for you if you send them the
arbor as well.

Joe Gwinn

How old is the spare arbor? The grease in bearings can lose it's
ability to lubricate. If the arbor is old I would replace the bearing
on it also.
CP

On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 11:01:54 AM UTC-5, MOP CAP wrote:
How old is the spare arbor? The grease in bearings can lose it's
ability to lubricate. If the arbor is old I would replace the bearing
on it also.
CP

It was ordered directly from Sears maybe 3-4 years ago. I have no idea how long they had
it on the shelf or how long the bearing itself was in the shelf.

For that matter, I don't how long any bearings that I order today have been on a shelf. They
might be older than what's on the spare arbor. Other than tracing down a lot number,
assuming There is one, I'm not sure how one would know the age of a given bearing.

On 2/10/2019 7:46 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 70's era Craftsman contractors saw. 113.298031

When I move the blade by hand it feels "chunky". I took the belt off so that
I was just spinning the blade and arbor and it "hesitates" every 1/2" or so.
It doesn't spin freely even with the belt off. As I pull the blade along I
can feel a soft thump, thump, thump. No hard clunking, but it requires an
increase in pulling power to get it past those points.

See if this video works. I'm trying to move the blade with a constant amount
of pull and you can see the stop and go. (Yes, I'm turning it backwards, but
it does the same thing going forward.)

https://youtu.be/jy_4iQ9DE2g

If the belt is off, the blade should not be doing that. I would say the
bearings are done.

Time for a new track saw? ;~)




I have a spare arbor (brand new) It has one bearing, the inside one near
the threads.

I guess I should order the outside bearing and tear the thing apart right?

From what I'm been reading, you're supposed take the entire arbor housing
out through the rear to get to the arbor bearing retainer screws. That
allows you to remove the outside bearing so you can slide the arbor
itself out.

Why not just cut a piece out of the sheet metal housing and do it all
from the side of the saw? As far as I can tell, that would give me direct
access to the 3 arbor bearing retainer screws. If I then covered the hole
with a piece of plywood (and sealed it up) I could hang all sorts of
accessories from the board. ;-) I'd also have easier access for future
maintenance/cleaning.

Can you remove the top and arbor trunion assembly?



Other than destroying the re-sell value of a saw that I paid $110 for in
the mid-80's, is there any reason not to go in through the side?

On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 2:15:28 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/10/2019 7:46 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 70's era Craftsman contractors saw. 113.298031

When I move the blade by hand it feels "chunky". I took the belt off so that
I was just spinning the blade and arbor and it "hesitates" every 1/2" or so.
It doesn't spin freely even with the belt off. As I pull the blade along I
can feel a soft thump, thump, thump. No hard clunking, but it requires an
increase in pulling power to get it past those points.

See if this video works. I'm trying to move the blade with a constant amount
of pull and you can see the stop and go. (Yes, I'm turning it backwards, but
it does the same thing going forward.)

https://youtu.be/jy_4iQ9DE2g

If the belt is off, the blade should not be doing that. I would say the
bearings are done.

Time for a new track saw? ;~)

You were the first person I thought of while I was posting my question.

I totally expected you to say that. ;-)





I have a spare arbor (brand new) It has one bearing, the inside one near
the threads.

I guess I should order the outside bearing and tear the thing apart right?

From what I'm been reading, you're supposed take the entire arbor housing
out through the rear to get to the arbor bearing retainer screws. That
allows you to remove the outside bearing so you can slide the arbor
itself out.

Why not just cut a piece out of the sheet metal housing and do it all
from the side of the saw? As far as I can tell, that would give me direct
access to the 3 arbor bearing retainer screws. If I then covered the hole
with a piece of plywood (and sealed it up) I could hang all sorts of
accessories from the board. ;-) I'd also have easier access for future
maintenance/cleaning.

Can you remove the top and arbor trunion assembly?

Don't know yet. It still works and I need to finish the bench first.
I'm close, may even be done with the table saw, but I don't want to
take a chance of needing the saw before I'm done.

Here's the reason I was considering going in through the side:

It seems to me that if I start removing major components, such as the
top, the arbor housing, etc. it's going to mean a major tune-up once I
get it all back together. On the other hand, if all I need to do is
remove is 3 screws to get to the outer bearing, I should be able to slide
the arbor right out and then right back in.

Remember the Monza? If I recall correctly, you had to disconnect the
motor mounts and tilt the engine to get to one of the spark plugs. I
think it was on that car that somebody figured out that you could get
to the spark plug by cutting a hole in the wheel well. I may have my
cars/hacks mixed up, but that's the concept I'm talking about. Why
take half the saw apart just to get to 3 screws that a thin piece of
sheet metal is blocking?

Maybe it's not that simple but that's why I asked.




Other than destroying the re-sell value of a saw that I paid $110 for in
the mid-80's, is there any reason not to go in through the side?

On 2/11/2019 5:27 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 2:15:28 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/10/2019 7:46 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 70's era Craftsman contractors saw. 113.298031

When I move the blade by hand it feels "chunky". I took the belt off so that
I was just spinning the blade and arbor and it "hesitates" every 1/2" or so.
It doesn't spin freely even with the belt off. As I pull the blade along I
can feel a soft thump, thump, thump. No hard clunking, but it requires an
increase in pulling power to get it past those points.

See if this video works. I'm trying to move the blade with a constant amount
of pull and you can see the stop and go. (Yes, I'm turning it backwards, but
it does the same thing going forward.)

https://youtu.be/jy_4iQ9DE2g

If the belt is off, the blade should not be doing that. I would say the
bearings are done.

Time for a new track saw? ;~)

You were the first person I thought of while I was posting my question.

I totally expected you to say that. ;-)


;~)





I have a spare arbor (brand new) It has one bearing, the inside one near
the threads.

I guess I should order the outside bearing and tear the thing apart right?

From what I'm been reading, you're supposed take the entire arbor housing
out through the rear to get to the arbor bearing retainer screws. That
allows you to remove the outside bearing so you can slide the arbor
itself out.

Why not just cut a piece out of the sheet metal housing and do it all
from the side of the saw? As far as I can tell, that would give me direct
access to the 3 arbor bearing retainer screws. If I then covered the hole
with a piece of plywood (and sealed it up) I could hang all sorts of
accessories from the board. ;-) I'd also have easier access for future
maintenance/cleaning.

Can you remove the top and arbor trunion assembly?

Don't know yet. It still works and I need to finish the bench first.
I'm close, may even be done with the table saw, but I don't want to
take a chance of needing the saw before I'm done.

Here's the reason I was considering going in through the side:

It seems to me that if I start removing major components, such as the
top, the arbor housing, etc. it's going to mean a major tune-up once I
get it all back together. On the other hand, if all I need to do is
remove is 3 screws to get to the outer bearing, I should be able to slide
the arbor right out and then right back in.

Remember the Monza? If I recall correctly, you had to disconnect the
motor mounts and tilt the engine to get to one of the spark plugs. I
think it was on that car that somebody figured out that you could get
to the spark plug by cutting a hole in the wheel well. I may have my
cars/hacks mixed up, but that's the concept I'm talking about. Why
take half the saw apart just to get to 3 screws that a thin piece of
sheet metal is blocking?

Maybe it's not that simple but that's why I asked.




Other than destroying the re-sell value of a saw that I paid $110 for in
the mid-80's, is there any reason not to go in through the side?



I had a Craftsman contractors TS, Bought it new in 1983. Cast Iron top.

So with this saw the trunion assembly attaches to the table top. You
probably know this but you set the blade parallel to the miter slots by
loosening the bolts that attach the trunion assembly to the top adjust
and tighten. The top simply bolts to the outer housing/frame/sides to
the saw.

If you do not loosen the trunion/top connecting bolts and simply unbolt
the top from the frame/housing/outer sides of the saw and lift the
assembly out, you should loose no adjustments.

Unlike a typical cabinet saw. The cabinet saw trunion sits on to and
bolts to the saw cabinet and then the top bolts to the cabinet.

A funny story, many years ago our dishwasher water pump failed and I was
not about to pay a repair bill. So I bought the repair parts and over
the coarse of a couple of days managed to successfully repair the dish
washer. I did this by laying on the hard floor and working in the 4"
space under the dish washer. Some years later I realized that I could
have removed 2 screws attaching the dishwasher to the counter top and
simply rolled it out and turned it upside down with full unobstructed
access to everything.

On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 11:20:08 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/11/2019 5:27 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 2:15:28 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/10/2019 7:46 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 70's era Craftsman contractors saw. 113.298031

When I move the blade by hand it feels "chunky". I took the belt off so that
I was just spinning the blade and arbor and it "hesitates" every 1/2" or so.
It doesn't spin freely even with the belt off. As I pull the blade along I
can feel a soft thump, thump, thump. No hard clunking, but it requires an
increase in pulling power to get it past those points.

See if this video works. I'm trying to move the blade with a constant amount
of pull and you can see the stop and go. (Yes, I'm turning it backwards, but
it does the same thing going forward.)

https://youtu.be/jy_4iQ9DE2g

If the belt is off, the blade should not be doing that. I would say the
bearings are done.

Time for a new track saw? ;~)

You were the first person I thought of while I was posting my question.

I totally expected you to say that. ;-)


;~)





I have a spare arbor (brand new) It has one bearing, the inside one near
the threads.

I guess I should order the outside bearing and tear the thing apart right?

From what I'm been reading, you're supposed take the entire arbor housing
out through the rear to get to the arbor bearing retainer screws. That
allows you to remove the outside bearing so you can slide the arbor
itself out.

Why not just cut a piece out of the sheet metal housing and do it all
from the side of the saw? As far as I can tell, that would give me direct
access to the 3 arbor bearing retainer screws. If I then covered the hole
with a piece of plywood (and sealed it up) I could hang all sorts of
accessories from the board. ;-) I'd also have easier access for future
maintenance/cleaning.

Can you remove the top and arbor trunion assembly?

Don't know yet. It still works and I need to finish the bench first.
I'm close, may even be done with the table saw, but I don't want to
take a chance of needing the saw before I'm done.

Here's the reason I was considering going in through the side:

It seems to me that if I start removing major components, such as the
top, the arbor housing, etc. it's going to mean a major tune-up once I
get it all back together. On the other hand, if all I need to do is
remove is 3 screws to get to the outer bearing, I should be able to slide
the arbor right out and then right back in.

Remember the Monza? If I recall correctly, you had to disconnect the
motor mounts and tilt the engine to get to one of the spark plugs. I
think it was on that car that somebody figured out that you could get
to the spark plug by cutting a hole in the wheel well. I may have my
cars/hacks mixed up, but that's the concept I'm talking about. Why
take half the saw apart just to get to 3 screws that a thin piece of
sheet metal is blocking?

Maybe it's not that simple but that's why I asked.




Other than destroying the re-sell value of a saw that I paid $110 for in
the mid-80's, is there any reason not to go in through the side?



I had a Craftsman contractors TS, Bought it new in 1983. Cast Iron top.

So with this saw the trunion assembly attaches to the table top. You
probably know this but you set the blade parallel to the miter slots by
loosening the bolts that attach the trunion assembly to the top adjust
and tighten. The top simply bolts to the outer housing/frame/sides to
the saw.

If you do not loosen the trunion/top connecting bolts and simply unbolt
the top from the frame/housing/outer sides of the saw and lift the
assembly out, you should loose no adjustments.

I don't know if you can actually lift the assembly out because of the
tilting and/or raising shafts that protrude through the holes in the case.

I've certainly never read/seen anyone do it that way on the ole interweb.

Is that something you have done or is that just hopeful speculation? ;-)


Unlike a typical cabinet saw. The cabinet saw trunion sits on to and
bolts to the saw cabinet and then the top bolts to the cabinet.

A funny story, many years ago our dishwasher water pump failed and I was
not about to pay a repair bill. So I bought the repair parts and over
the coarse of a couple of days managed to successfully repair the dish
washer. I did this by laying on the hard floor and working in the 4"
space under the dish washer. Some years later I realized that I could
have removed 2 screws attaching the dishwasher to the counter top and
simply rolled it out and turned it upside down with full unobstructed
access to everything.

Trust me, we've all had those "Damn, I'm an idiot" ...I mean...
learning moments. ;-)

On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 5:25:52 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I don't know if you can actually lift the assembly out because of the
tilting and/or raising shafts that protrude through the holes in the case.

Remove a knob or two, the pointer, and the tilt shaft comes loose when you
disassemble its socket (two or three screws).
The motor (two screws) and mount just pull away.

On mine, the arbor didn't require treating, but other mechanisms worked much
better after cleaning and lube and readjustment.

On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 9:10:40 PM UTC-5, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 5:25:52 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I don't know if you can actually lift the assembly out because of the
tilting and/or raising shafts that protrude through the holes in the case.

Remove a knob or two, the pointer, and the tilt shaft comes loose when you
disassemble its socket (two or three screws).
The motor (two screws) and mount just pull away.

On mine, the arbor didn't require treating, but other mechanisms worked much
better after cleaning and lube and readjustment.

Let's make sure that we are all talking about the same process.

The steps you are describing is exactly what I've read when people are
disconnecting the trunion assembly from the top and removing it through
the back of the case. They end up with this on the workbench:

https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/p...-Table-Saw.jpg

Leon is suggesting that I do not remove the trunion assembly from the
top; instead he is suggesting that I remove the cast iron top and trunion
assembly *as one piece* from the base. If that is possible, then I would
have access to the arbor assembly but I wouldn't have to do any re-alignment
of the trunion once I was done.

My question is: After you remove both rotating knobs and the tilt lock
handle, can you bring the shafts inside the case so that the trunion *and*
top can be lifted off and placed on the workbench as one piece?

On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 8:08:14 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 9:10:40 PM UTC-5, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 5:25:52 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I don't know if you can actually lift the assembly out because of the
tilting and/or raising shafts that protrude through the holes in the case.

Remove a knob or two, the pointer, and the tilt shaft comes loose when you
disassemble its socket (two or three screws).


My question is: After you remove both rotating knobs and the tilt lock
handle, can you bring the shafts inside the case so that the trunion *and*
top can be lifted off and placed on the workbench as one piece?

My recollection is that the tilt strut flops loose, so yes, it would not prevent
lifting out the whole apparatus, table and all. The top, though, is heavy; a
two-person lift might be recommended. And, you'll have to shift/swivel/tilt
the whole thing to clear the lip of the case. Reassembly with the loose strut
may be tricky; I recall replacing the top first, then attaching the underparts.

On Friday, February 15, 2019 at 6:23:12 PM UTC-5, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 8:08:14 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 9:10:40 PM UTC-5, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 5:25:52 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I don't know if you can actually lift the assembly out because of the
tilting and/or raising shafts that protrude through the holes in the case.

Remove a knob or two, the pointer, and the tilt shaft comes loose when you
disassemble its socket (two or three screws).


My question is: After you remove both rotating knobs and the tilt lock
handle, can you bring the shafts inside the case so that the trunion *and*
top can be lifted off and placed on the workbench as one piece?

My recollection is that the tilt strut flops loose, so yes, it would not prevent
lifting out the whole apparatus, table and all. The top, though, is heavy; a
two-person lift might be recommended. And, you'll have to shift/swivel/tilt
the whole thing to clear the lip of the case. Reassembly with the loose strut
may be tricky; I recall replacing the top first, then attaching the underparts.

Thanks. Sounds like some way of supporting the loose strut so that it can
be "aimed" back through it's hole might be something to consider. Some
method that could easily be removed from the back once the saw was
reassembled.

The again, maybe it's just not worth it. Aligning the trunion shouldn't
be that tough. Apparently, it's done all the time based on how many
people have re-habbed these saws.

On Friday, February 15, 2019 at 7:23:16 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Aligning the trunion shouldn't
be that tough. Apparently, it's done all the time based on how many
people have re-habbed these saws.

The worst thing about realigning the trunion is that all the zero-clearance
throat plates need rework.

On Saturday, February 16, 2019 at 10:46:01 PM UTC-5, whit3rd wrote:
On Friday, February 15, 2019 at 7:23:16 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Aligning the trunion shouldn't
be that tough. Apparently, it's done all the time based on how many
people have re-habbed these saws.

The worst thing about realigning the trunion is that all the zero-clearance
throat plates need rework.

I have some blank inserts that I cut from the bottoms of my old kitchen
drawers. Hardwood plywood and extremely flat, even after 60 years. When
those blanks are used up, I've got enough bottoms to make 6 or so more.

I'm more worried about adjusting that little red line on my fence ruler. ;-)