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Larry Kraus wrote:

A simple pitch gauge takes up much less space and is a lot cheaper.

See
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...ds=pitch+gauge


I ordered one of those tonight. I'll keep my eyes open for the
right tap and die set. "Hanson" apparently was a recommended
brand. Looks like "Irwin" may have bought it up. Handmade tap
and die wrenches might make satisfying projects...though that's
probably the sort of project that may be most successful when you
have a working example (and/or specifications) in front of you.

Another project I have, and have had for a number of years,
involves bending 1/2"x1/8"cold steel bar into a circular shape
about 12" in diameter, and then a 2nd piece of the same material
which wraps snugly around the first piece. Since I only need
these 2 pieces I don't intend to buy new tooling for it. I hope
that a homemade "wooden anvil" of the right curvature may work.
I actually already bought a small tap and tap wrench for this
project. The 2nd piece shows up very well in the following
picture (if you click on it, it will play a video).

http://bell.20m.com/banjosrelicpage.html


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On Sat, 12 Jan 2019 03:54:35 -0500, Bill wrote:

Larry Kraus wrote:

A simple pitch gauge takes up much less space and is a lot cheaper.

See
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...ds=pitch+gauge


I ordered one of those tonight. I'll keep my eyes open for the
right tap and die set. "Hanson" apparently was a recommended
brand. Looks like "Irwin" may have bought it up. Handmade tap
and die wrenches might make satisfying projects...though that's
probably the sort of project that may be most successful when you
have a working example (and/or specifications) in front of you.

Another project I have, and have had for a number of years,
involves bending 1/2"x1/8"cold steel bar into a circular shape
about 12" in diameter, and then a 2nd piece of the same material
which wraps snugly around the first piece. Since I only need
these 2 pieces I don't intend to buy new tooling for it. I hope
that a homemade "wooden anvil" of the right curvature may work.
I actually already bought a small tap and tap wrench for this
project. The 2nd piece shows up very well in the following
picture (if you click on it, it will play a video).

http://bell.20m.com/banjosrelicpage.html

Bodge up a roll former. 2 fiixed rollers and a moveable one that you
just run the material back and forth through, tightening the moveable
roller as you go untill you get the radius you need.
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Clare Snyder wrote:

Bodge up a roll former. 2 fiixed rollers and a moveable one that you
just run the material back and forth through, tightening the moveable
roller as you go untill you get the radius you need.



I thought of trying that. Wood rollers okay? If I make them like
"spools" of the right width, I might even end up with concentric
rings that lay flat. I bought enough material (soft steel) to
allow me at least one mistake, and of course, I can always buy
more. I already have the Oak hoop and the calf skin. Any
difference between the suitability of soft maple versus hard
maple for the neck? I suppose, besides work-ability, the main
issue is the resistance to any twisting and turning. More than 10
years ago, when I started this project, increasingly aware of how
little I knew about woodworking, I was better-versed in the
details. That's when I switched from reading rec.banjomaking to
rec.woodworking. The former may not be very active anymore.
I can think up projects for myself faster than I can do them...
When I started, I didn't even have a house with a yard to mow!
This spring, I'm planning to powerwash and restain the
deck--hopefully, that's only "two weekends" : )

Bill



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On Sun, 13 Jan 2019 19:57:01 -0500, Bill wrote:

When I started, I didn't even have a house with a yard to mow!
This spring, I'm planning to powerwash and restain the
deck--hopefully, that's only "two weekends" : )

Bill, I suggest that before you use a power washer on a wooden deck that you
check it out on an inconspicuous place. A high pressure water jet can do bad
things to wood.
--
Jerry O.
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On Sun, 13 Jan 2019 19:57:01 -0500, Bill wrote:

Clare Snyder wrote:

Bodge up a roll former. 2 fiixed rollers and a moveable one that you
just run the material back and forth through, tightening the moveable
roller as you go untill you get the radius you need.



I thought of trying that. Wood rollers okay? If I make them like
"spools" of the right width, I might even end up with concentric
rings that lay flat. I bought enough material (soft steel) to
allow me at least one mistake, and of course, I can always buy
more. I already have the Oak hoop and the calf skin. Any
difference between the suitability of soft maple versus hard
maple for the neck? I suppose, besides work-ability, the main
issue is the resistance to any twisting and turning. More than 10
years ago, when I started this project, increasingly aware of how
little I knew about woodworking, I was better-versed in the
details. That's when I switched from reading rec.banjomaking to
rec.woodworking. The former may not be very active anymore.
I can think up projects for myself faster than I can do them...
When I started, I didn't even have a house with a yard to mow!
This spring, I'm planning to powerwash and restain the
deck--hopefully, that's only "two weekends" : )

Bill


A set of ball bearings will work better. I've seen it done with a
vice. Bolt a plate with 2 bearings to one jaw, and 1 bearing to the
other jaw. Bearings running horizontally - You could use hardwood
blocks - 2X2 oak for instance, with bearings bolted through one
way,and jaw-bolts the other direction. Pull the metal through,
crankthe vise 1/4 turn orwhatever, and pull through again - repeat
untill you have your hoop.
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Jerry Osage wrote:
On Sun, 13 Jan 2019 19:57:01 -0500, Bill wrote:

When I started, I didn't even have a house with a yard to mow!
This spring, I'm planning to powerwash and restain the
deck--hopefully, that's only "two weekends" : )

Bill, I suggest that before you use a power washer on a wooden deck that you
check it out on an inconspicuous place. A high pressure water jet can do bad
things to wood.


I have to powerspray the porous decking floor of the deck and the
many wooden slats that make up the fence around it. I have read
to start at 8-12" away on the deck. I didn't realize the wood was
so vulnerable too (but I will keep your caution in mind)! While
look at a copy of "Consumer Reports", I noted that they evaluated
the way the stain looked after 1, 2, and 3 years. Heck, I haven't
re-stained mine (ever) in 9 years, so I'm expected a big
improvement! I used inexpensive "deck cleaner" with a brush
once, but I wasn't overly-impressed with the results--it looked
cleaner when I was through, but I sensed that I may as well have
been using water. I am expecting significant before/after
results this time, so I am sort of looking forward to getting on
with it.

Bill


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Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 13 Jan 2019 19:57:01 -0500, Bill wrote:

Clare Snyder wrote:

Bodge up a roll former. 2 fiixed rollers and a moveable one that you
just run the material back and forth through, tightening the moveable
roller as you go untill you get the radius you need.



I thought of trying that. Wood rollers okay? If I make them like
"spools" of the right width, I might even end up with concentric
rings that lay flat. I bought enough material (soft steel) to
allow me at least one mistake, and of course, I can always buy
more. I already have the Oak hoop and the calf skin. Any
difference between the suitability of soft maple versus hard
maple for the neck? I suppose, besides work-ability, the main
issue is the resistance to any twisting and turning. More than 10
years ago, when I started this project, increasingly aware of how
little I knew about woodworking, I was better-versed in the
details. That's when I switched from reading rec.banjomaking to
rec.woodworking. The former may not be very active anymore.
I can think up projects for myself faster than I can do them...
When I started, I didn't even have a house with a yard to mow!
This spring, I'm planning to powerwash and restain the
deck--hopefully, that's only "two weekends" : )

Bill


A set of ball bearings will work better. I've seen it done with a
vice. Bolt a plate with 2 bearings to one jaw, and 1 bearing to the
other jaw. Bearings running horizontally - You could use hardwood
blocks - 2X2 oak for instance, with bearings bolted through one
way,and jaw-bolts the other direction. Pull the metal through,
crankthe vise 1/4 turn orwhatever, and pull through again - repeat
untill you have your hoop.


I made some sketches, and got it right on the 3rd try! It seems
like a very good idea! I'll let you know about how it goes.
Thank you!

Bill
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Clare Snyder wrote:

Just don't get too close. I did my old cedar deck numerour times -
as well as the PT SYP. It DOES accentuate the grain, particularly when
used after soaking it with bleach.


I'm guessing you dilute the bleach by about 4 or 5 (or more?)
parts water to 1 part bleach, and let that work for say 10
minutes. Am I on the right track?


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On 1/14/2019 1:48 AM, Bill wrote:
Clare Snyder wrote:

Just don't get too close. I did my old cedar deck numerour times -
as well as the PT SYP. It DOES accentuate the grain, particularly when
used after soaking it with bleach.


I'm guessing you dilute the bleach by about 4 or 5 (or more?) parts
water to 1 part bleach, and let that work for say 10 minutes. Am I on
the right track?


Bleach is your friend, Power washer not. I removed a 16x32' above
ground pool a few years ago that was abutted to my deck. The wolmanized
2x12's that were exposed for the first time in 20+ years were black. I
got a brush and used straight bleach and with no effort, and I mean no
effort, the wolmanized lumber looked brand new. I used just a hose to
wash it off, no pressure washer. I have already done damage to my deck
with a pressure washer because it is very difficult not to get carried
away with stubborn spots when using a PW and weak chemicals.

If you _need_ a pressure washer to clean your deck, your cleaning
chemicals are not working and need to be stronger. I learned this the
hard way. The problem with bleach is it is not friendly to vegetation,
so if that's an issue, cover with plastic or something.I still use a
pressure washer because I can, but am very careful with it.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com
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On Monday, January 14, 2019 at 1:48:40 AM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
Clare Snyder wrote:

Just don't get too close. I did my old cedar deck numerour times -
as well as the PT SYP. It DOES accentuate the grain, particularly when
used after soaking it with bleach.


I'm guessing you dilute the bleach by about 4 or 5 (or more?)
parts water to 1 part bleach, and let that work for say 10
minutes. Am I on the right track?


These images show the results of cleaning a 30+ year old deck with a low-end
Greenworks 1600 psi power washer and Krud Kutter deck wash. This is the first
time the deck had been cleaned other than an occasional rinse with a hose.

This image is mid-cleaning, with the clean portion still wet.

https://i.imgur.com/d2Wt0gY.jpg

This image was taken the next day, when the deck was mostly dry. This deck
hardly gets any sun, so it takes a while to dry out.

https://i.imgur.com/ER8tQjf.jpg

I chose Krud Kutter because it is supposed to be safe for plants and animals.
My cat lapped up a little water from a puddle and is still around. Obviously
the puddle was more water than Krud Kutter, but the cat isn't walking around
sideways or falling over a lot. ;-)

At 1600 PSI, there was negligible damage to the wood itself. Some corners of
the railings, where there were sharp edges, ended up with some "hair". The
balusters and deck boards, which have rounded edges, were not impacted at all.
I'm going to stain it this spring, so I'll probably give it a quick wash again
and then hit the edges of the railings with some sandpaper once it dries.

I do suggest that you wet down any nearby vegetation before you start and
rinse it every now and then just to be extra safe.
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On Mon, 14 Jan 2019 07:15:05 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Monday, January 14, 2019 at 1:48:40 AM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
Clare Snyder wrote:

Just don't get too close. I did my old cedar deck numerour times -
as well as the PT SYP. It DOES accentuate the grain, particularly when
used after soaking it with bleach.


I'm guessing you dilute the bleach by about 4 or 5 (or more?)
parts water to 1 part bleach, and let that work for say 10
minutes. Am I on the right track?


I used about 8:1 sprayed on with a garden sprayer onto a still-wet
pre-washed deck

These images show the results of cleaning a 30+ year old deck with a low-end
Greenworks 1600 psi power washer and Krud Kutter deck wash. This is the first
time the deck had been cleaned other than an occasional rinse with a hose.

This image is mid-cleaning, with the clean portion still wet.

https://i.imgur.com/d2Wt0gY.jpg

This image was taken the next day, when the deck was mostly dry. This deck
hardly gets any sun, so it takes a while to dry out.

https://i.imgur.com/ER8tQjf.jpg


Looks about like my SYP deck after cleaning.

I chose Krud Kutter because it is supposed to be safe for plants and animals.
My cat lapped up a little water from a puddle and is still around. Obviously
the puddle was more water than Krud Kutter, but the cat isn't walking around
sideways or falling over a lot. ;-)

At 1600 PSI, there was negligible damage to the wood itself. Some corners of
the railings, where there were sharp edges, ended up with some "hair". The
balusters and deck boards, which have rounded edges, were not impacted at all.
I'm going to stain it this spring, so I'll probably give it a quick wash again
and then hit the edges of the railings with some sandpaper once it dries.

I do suggest that you wet down any nearby vegetation before you start and
rinse it every now and then just to be extra safe.



About what I did with the bleach.

I did try the "active oxygen" cleaner and it was pretty much useless.

I then made the mistake of applying a "deck restore" product that
started peeling about 3 days later. What a DISASTER. I got my money
back but I'm left dealing with the aftermath - which includes trapped
moisture causing some boards to rot faster than they otherwise would
have - as well as sheets of the product blowing across the yard in
wind storms.
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DerbyDad03 wrote:

These images show the results of cleaning a 30+ year old deck with a low-end
Greenworks 1600 psi power washer and Krud Kutter deck wash. This is the first
time the deck had been cleaned other than an occasional rinse with a hose.

This image is mid-cleaning, with the clean portion still wet.

https://i.imgur.com/d2Wt0gY.jpg

This image was taken the next day, when the deck was mostly dry. This deck
hardly gets any sun, so it takes a while to dry out.

https://i.imgur.com/ER8tQjf.jpg

I chose Krud Kutter because it is supposed to be safe for plants and animals.


I went and checked, and I have most of a gallon of "Jomax" (which
one adds bleach to) left over from another project. It is safer
than using pure bleach too, which appeals to me. I'll try that
first. I still will need to cover all the plants/spirea which
surround the deck (not hard to do). Thanks for the tips! It's
nice to have a plan, so that after the snow melts--and maybe a
few weeks after that, I can hit the ground running! I'll take
before/after pics, because I think they are motivating to others! : )

Bill
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