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Removing stainless steel trim head screws
Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless
steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On 9/2/2018 10:21 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:
Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bitÂ* in aÂ* vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Wow, I just looked at the price of a ratchet brace and was surprised. Mine is about 50 years old and rarely used. I do have a thought. How about a T handle used to hod a tap? If you give the screw a turn or so, will that loosed it enough to come out with the power drill and not break? |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On 9/2/2018 9:31 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 9/2/2018 10:21 AM, Dick Snyder wrote: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bitÂ* in aÂ* vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Wow, I just looked at the price of a ratchet brace and was surprised. Mine is about 50 years old and rarely used. I do have a thought.Â* How about a T handle used to hod a tap?Â* If you give the screw a turn or so, will that loosed it enough to come out with the power drill and not break? Along the same lines (more or less), how about an adjustable torque impact driver? I have a little Bosch 12v that really does a nice job removing and setting screws. You can adjust the force applied (on or off) and I find that little bit of vibration - just enough to rock its world but not enough to torque it off - usually does the trick. |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On 9/2/18 9:21 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:
Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bitÂ* in aÂ* vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA My first thought would be a stripped screw extractor. They work pretty well and you can get fairly fast at it. Are you removing/replacing the decking boards? If so, why not cut the screws off underneath the decking? A sawzall with a bi-metal blade would make quick work of it. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- www.mikedrums.com |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On 9/2/2018 10:21 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:
Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bitÂ* in aÂ* vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Get a T-10 bit with a standard 1/4" base. Or shim the one you have. |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On Sun, 2 Sep 2018 10:21:54 -0400, Dick Snyder
wrote: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? A couple of options come to mind: Lowes has in stock for pickup today (in the several stores nearest Southborough, MA) a 1/4" drive T-10 torx socket item 338200 model 85998 for $1.98. It's Kobalt brand, have no idea how well it will hold up, but you should be able to use it with your socket set more conveniently than a hex bit. Lee Valley has for $11.50 an adapter that holds 1/4" hex bits in a _4_ point brace, which if you don't have one are available for cheap on Amazon ($12-30 range for Chinese). TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
Dick Snyder wrote:
Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-1-4-in-x-1-7-8-in-Shockwave-Magnetic-Nut-Driver-Bit-3-Pack-49-66-4522/202653629 Break the screws loose by hand with a ratchet & 1/4" socket, then use the drill/magnetic nut driver/T-10 to remove. |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On Sun, 2 Sep 2018 10:21:54 -0400, Dick Snyder
wrote: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA try an impact driver |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On Sun, 2 Sep 2018 10:21:54 -0400, Dick Snyder
wrote: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Do you have a speed wrench in your socket set? Same idea as a brace 1/4 inch socket with a bit of slick tape on the bit to take up the slack. |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
Markem wrote:
On Sun, 2 Sep 2018 10:21:54 -0400, Dick Snyder wrote: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Do you have a speed wrench in your socket set? Same idea as a brace 1/4 inch socket with a bit of slick tape on the bit to take up the slack. +1 https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-...dle-62700.html if needed: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-h...set-62851.html |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 14:22:39 -0500, Markem
wrote: On Sun, 2 Sep 2018 10:21:54 -0400, Dick Snyder wrote: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Do you have a speed wrench in your socket set? Same idea as a brace 1/4 inch socket with a bit of slick tape on the bit to take up the slack. what's wrong with a bit-holder socket? the magnetic ones are nice and available pretty cheap - but the ones with a spring work just as well and are even cheaper. |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 17:07:31 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 14:22:39 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 2 Sep 2018 10:21:54 -0400, Dick Snyder wrote: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Do you have a speed wrench in your socket set? Same idea as a brace 1/4 inch socket with a bit of slick tape on the bit to take up the slack. what's wrong with a bit-holder socket? the magnetic ones are nice and available pretty cheap - but the ones with a spring work just as well and are even cheaper. Nothing but if you have not got one and you have other tools, so I was just suggesting ideas. |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 16:24:06 -0500, Markem
wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 17:07:31 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 14:22:39 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 2 Sep 2018 10:21:54 -0400, Dick Snyder wrote: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Do you have a speed wrench in your socket set? Same idea as a brace 1/4 inch socket with a bit of slick tape on the bit to take up the slack. what's wrong with a bit-holder socket? the magnetic ones are nice and available pretty cheap - but the ones with a spring work just as well and are even cheaper. Nothing but if you have not got one and you have other tools, so I was just suggesting ideas. I.ve found using the right tool for the job is generally a LOT simpler |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On Sunday, September 2, 2018 at 9:01:52 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 16:24:06 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 17:07:31 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 14:22:39 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 2 Sep 2018 10:21:54 -0400, Dick Snyder wrote: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Do you have a speed wrench in your socket set? Same idea as a brace 1/4 inch socket with a bit of slick tape on the bit to take up the slack. what's wrong with a bit-holder socket? the magnetic ones are nice and available pretty cheap - but the ones with a spring work just as well and are even cheaper. Nothing but if you have not got one and you have other tools, so I was just suggesting ideas. I.ve found using the right tool for the job is generally a LOT simpler A wise man once said to me "If you are working too hard, you are probably using the wrong tool." |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On Sunday, September 2, 2018 at 7:22:04 AM UTC-7, southborough_man wrote:
Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck... the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? Well, for a deck you'd be comfortable standing on, I'd get some iron pipe and fit a T handle to one end, and weld a T-10 shank, or the shank of a screwdriver that accepts T-10 bits, to the other end. If you don't have welders, epoxy and wood can make a suitable handle. Yeah, it's a bit of work, but hunched over at floor level is not my idea of quality time... |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 21:01:51 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 16:24:06 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 17:07:31 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 14:22:39 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 2 Sep 2018 10:21:54 -0400, Dick Snyder wrote: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Do you have a speed wrench in your socket set? Same idea as a brace 1/4 inch socket with a bit of slick tape on the bit to take up the slack. what's wrong with a bit-holder socket? the magnetic ones are nice and available pretty cheap - but the ones with a spring work just as well and are even cheaper. Nothing but if you have not got one and you have other tools, so I was just suggesting ideas. I.ve found using the right tool for the job is generally a LOT simpler Okay be as you will be, but right may not be what someone has. |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On Monday, September 3, 2018 at 1:10:37 AM UTC-4, Markem wrote:
On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 21:01:51 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 16:24:06 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 17:07:31 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 14:22:39 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 2 Sep 2018 10:21:54 -0400, Dick Snyder wrote: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Do you have a speed wrench in your socket set? Same idea as a brace 1/4 inch socket with a bit of slick tape on the bit to take up the slack. what's wrong with a bit-holder socket? the magnetic ones are nice and available pretty cheap - but the ones with a spring work just as well and are even cheaper. Nothing but if you have not got one and you have other tools, so I was just suggesting ideas. I.ve found using the right tool for the job is generally a LOT simpler Okay be as you will be, but right may not be what someone has. But right is something that one can often get. The OP has indicated a willingness to purchase/borrow the right tool, so he's certainly not limited to using only what he has. |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On 9/2/2018 1:27 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:
On 9/2/2018 10:21 AM, Dick Snyder wrote: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bitÂ* in aÂ* vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Get a T-10 bit with a standard 1/4" base. Or shim the one you have. This is a good idea. I am replacing the deck boards but am unable to cut off anything below. If I can get t-10 with a standards base, I would be able to use my stanard socket wrench which will get the job done quickly. Thanks. Dick |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On 9/2/2018 10:21 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:
Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bitÂ* in aÂ* vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Thanks to all who replied. This rec is always so helpful. After reading all replies, my plan is to get a T-10 bit with a standard 1/4" base which will work with my socket set. Loosening the screws will go quickly then. Once I back them out a couple of turns I can remove them without any breakage. Thanks again all! Dick Snyder |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On Mon, 3 Sep 2018 05:25:29 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Monday, September 3, 2018 at 1:10:37 AM UTC-4, Markem wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 21:01:51 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 16:24:06 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 17:07:31 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 14:22:39 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 2 Sep 2018 10:21:54 -0400, Dick Snyder wrote: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Do you have a speed wrench in your socket set? Same idea as a brace 1/4 inch socket with a bit of slick tape on the bit to take up the slack. what's wrong with a bit-holder socket? the magnetic ones are nice and available pretty cheap - but the ones with a spring work just as well and are even cheaper. Nothing but if you have not got one and you have other tools, so I was just suggesting ideas. I.ve found using the right tool for the job is generally a LOT simpler Okay be as you will be, but right may not be what someone has. But right is something that one can often get. The OP has indicated a willingness to purchase/borrow the right tool, so he's certainly not limited to using only what he has. |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On Mon, 3 Sep 2018 05:25:29 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Monday, September 3, 2018 at 1:10:37 AM UTC-4, Markem wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 21:01:51 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 16:24:06 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 17:07:31 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 14:22:39 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 2 Sep 2018 10:21:54 -0400, Dick Snyder wrote: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Do you have a speed wrench in your socket set? Same idea as a brace 1/4 inch socket with a bit of slick tape on the bit to take up the slack. what's wrong with a bit-holder socket? the magnetic ones are nice and available pretty cheap - but the ones with a spring work just as well and are even cheaper. Nothing but if you have not got one and you have other tools, so I was just suggesting ideas. I.ve found using the right tool for the job is generally a LOT simpler Okay be as you will be, but right may not be what someone has. But right is something that one can often get. The OP has indicated a willingness to purchase/borrow the right tool, so he's certainly not limited to using only what he has. I offered a suggestion, Clare Snyder questioned me, I denigrated no ones ideas by making a suggestion. |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On Mon, 03 Sep 2018 00:10:31 -0500, Markem
wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 21:01:51 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 16:24:06 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 17:07:31 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 14:22:39 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 2 Sep 2018 10:21:54 -0400, Dick Snyder wrote: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Do you have a speed wrench in your socket set? Same idea as a brace 1/4 inch socket with a bit of slick tape on the bit to take up the slack. what's wrong with a bit-holder socket? the magnetic ones are nice and available pretty cheap - but the ones with a spring work just as well and are even cheaper. Nothing but if you have not got one and you have other tools, so I was just suggesting ideas. I.ve found using the right tool for the job is generally a LOT simpler Okay be as you will be, but right may not be what someone has. As easy and cheap as it is to have the right tool there REALLY is no excuse to bodge things. And the right tool will be usefull for MANY other jobs as well. Generally speaking, Snyders like havingthe right tools on hand. |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On Mon, 3 Sep 2018 08:31:53 -0400, Dick Snyder
wrote: On 9/2/2018 10:21 AM, Dick Snyder wrote: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit* in a* vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Thanks to all who replied. This rec is always so helpful. After reading all replies, my plan is to get a T-10 bit with a standard 1/4" base which will work with my socket set. Loosening the screws will go quickly then. Once I back them out a couple of turns I can remove them without any breakage. Thanks again all! Dick Snyder Dick, I'd suggest (as in strongly recommend) getting the 1/4" bit holder instead - lets you use ANY 1/4 hex type bit in the future - and if you damage your T10 bit you only need to replace the bit - not the whole (much more expensive) 1/4 inch square drive assembly. It's up to you, but this is experience talking (and yes, I'm a bit of a tool Junkie) Clare Snyder Waterloo Ontario |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On Mon, 03 Sep 2018 11:06:03 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote: On Mon, 03 Sep 2018 00:10:31 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 21:01:51 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 16:24:06 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 17:07:31 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 14:22:39 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 2 Sep 2018 10:21:54 -0400, Dick Snyder wrote: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Do you have a speed wrench in your socket set? Same idea as a brace 1/4 inch socket with a bit of slick tape on the bit to take up the slack. what's wrong with a bit-holder socket? the magnetic ones are nice and available pretty cheap - but the ones with a spring work just as well and are even cheaper. Nothing but if you have not got one and you have other tools, so I was just suggesting ideas. I.ve found using the right tool for the job is generally a LOT simpler Okay be as you will be, but right may not be what someone has. As easy and cheap as it is to have the right tool there REALLY is no excuse to bodge things. And the right tool will be usefull for MANY other jobs as well. Generally speaking, Snyders like havingthe right tools on hand. I have torx that fit a 3/8s drive so that would be my right tool. |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
As easy and cheap as it is to have the right tool there REALLY is no excuse to bodge things. And the right tool will be usefull for MANY other jobs as well. ... and he might already have it - hiding right in plain sight - if he has a ~ 150 piece socket set who doesn't John T. |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
Dick, I'd suggest (as in strongly recommend) getting the 1/4" bit holder instead - lets you use ANY 1/4 hex type bit in the future - and if you damage your T10 bit you only need to replace the bit - not the whole (much more expensive) 1/4 inch square drive assembly. Clare Snyder Good point. ... and you might need an assortment of bits, to go with that nice new bit holder ... :-) http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/pag...411,43417&ap=1 http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/pag...411,43417&ap=2 John T. |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On Mon, 03 Sep 2018 10:45:57 -0500, Markem
wrote: On Mon, 03 Sep 2018 11:06:03 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Mon, 03 Sep 2018 00:10:31 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 21:01:51 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 16:24:06 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 17:07:31 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 14:22:39 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 2 Sep 2018 10:21:54 -0400, Dick Snyder wrote: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Do you have a speed wrench in your socket set? Same idea as a brace 1/4 inch socket with a bit of slick tape on the bit to take up the slack. what's wrong with a bit-holder socket? the magnetic ones are nice and available pretty cheap - but the ones with a spring work just as well and are even cheaper. Nothing but if you have not got one and you have other tools, so I was just suggesting ideas. I.ve found using the right tool for the job is generally a LOT simpler Okay be as you will be, but right may not be what someone has. As easy and cheap as it is to have the right tool there REALLY is no excuse to bodge things. And the right tool will be usefull for MANY other jobs as well. Generally speaking, Snyders like havingthe right tools on hand. I have torx that fit a 3/8s drive so that would be my right tool. No arguement there - and you can use your speed handle if you have one - without a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer. |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
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Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On Mon, 03 Sep 2018 12:40:09 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote: On Mon, 03 Sep 2018 10:45:57 -0500, Markem wrote: On Mon, 03 Sep 2018 11:06:03 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Mon, 03 Sep 2018 00:10:31 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 21:01:51 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 16:24:06 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 17:07:31 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2018 14:22:39 -0500, Markem wrote: On Sun, 2 Sep 2018 10:21:54 -0400, Dick Snyder wrote: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA Do you have a speed wrench in your socket set? Same idea as a brace 1/4 inch socket with a bit of slick tape on the bit to take up the slack. what's wrong with a bit-holder socket? the magnetic ones are nice and available pretty cheap - but the ones with a spring work just as well and are even cheaper. Nothing but if you have not got one and you have other tools, so I was just suggesting ideas. I.ve found using the right tool for the job is generally a LOT simpler Okay be as you will be, but right may not be what someone has. As easy and cheap as it is to have the right tool there REALLY is no excuse to bodge things. And the right tool will be usefull for MANY other jobs as well. Generally speaking, Snyders like havingthe right tools on hand. I have torx that fit a 3/8s drive so that would be my right tool. No arguement there - and you can use your speed handle if you have one - without a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer. Actually I probably would not be that patient, bust the heads off the screws and get out the pry bar, use a hammer the break off what is left and finally the sink what is left with same hammer. But that is not what the OP asked. |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
Dick Snyder wrote in
: Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless steel is soft. If I grip my T-10 bit in a vice grip, I can slowly ease the #8 x 2 1/2" screws out but I am hoping to find a faster solution. The base of the T-10 bit will not fit in any of my english or metric sockets (just a hair lose in 1/4" and too tight in 7/32"). I wish when my dad died 30 years ago that I had taken the brace from his tool collection but I not. The ideal tool would be a 3 jaw reversible ratchet brace but they are expensive. I can't find a neighbor that has a brace. Does anyone have a better idea than my vice grip? TIA. Dick Snyder Souothborough, MA In some cases, you can hammer a bit into a screw head to get better grip. The stainless will deform just a bit and you should be able to back the screw out slowly. Bits are consumables, so don't be afraid to buy 25 or 100 of them at one time. They'll stay good forever in a drawer assuming you don't have moisture issues. Bit holders are also consumables. They have a magnet or retaining wire (PITRE) which helps a lot. Puckdropper -- http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst! |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On 9/3/2018 8:31 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:
Thanks to all who replied. This rec is always so helpful. After reading all replies, my plan is to get a T-10 bit with a standard 1/4" base which will work with my socket set. Loosening the screws will go quickly then. Once I back them out a couple of turns I can remove them without any breakage. Often with stuck screws smacking the screw driver with a hammer will loosen the screw enough to torque it out. Impact drill/driver also work well to ease out screws. Also, combining methods with a $15 impact screwdriver: https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3...2905/205674679 Just about always works. I have a deck I built 25 years ago using the same deck screws you did. Wolmanized lumber shrinks around the screw when it dry's out, making it next to impossible to get the screws out without extraordinary measures. -- Jack Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions. http://jbstein.com |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
... Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless You might try tightening them a little before trying to back them out... That approach has solved a lot of removal problems for me in the past. On the other hand, it might just break the head off which leads to another possible solution! Another option is to break all the heads off, pry the board off and then back out the screws by chucking them in a drill. That has worked for me too. Alternatively, break the heads off, pry the board off, and bend the remaining screw over... some may snap off some my not. If you are replacing the deck boards the remains of the screws will be hidden. |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On Tuesday, September 4, 2018 at 9:32:26 PM UTC-4, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Dick Snyder" wrote in message ... Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless You might try tightening them a little before trying to back them out... That approach has solved a lot of removal problems for me in the past. On the other hand, it might just break the head off which leads to another possible solution! Another option is to break all the heads off, pry the board off and then back out the screws by chucking them in a drill. That has worked for me too. Alternatively, break the heads off, pry the board off, and bend the remaining screw over... some may snap off some my not. If you are replacing the deck boards the remains of the screws will be hidden. I think that trying to chuck 200 "screw remains" in a drill would be a real pain. Close, open, close, open, over and over again. I think cutting them flush with any one of various tools would be quicker/easier. |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
... On Tuesday, September 4, 2018 at 9:32:26 PM UTC-4, John Grossbohlin wrote: option is to break all the heads off, pry the board off and then back out the screws by chucking them in a drill. That has worked for me too. Alternatively, break the heads off, pry the board off, and bend the remaining screw over... some may snap off some my not. If you are replacing the deck boards the remains of the screws will be hidden. I think that trying to chuck 200 "screw remains" in a drill would be a real pain. Close, open, close, open, over and over again. I think cutting them flush with any one of various tools would be quicker/easier. No matter what, this job is going to be tedious... If he wants complete removal the drill is the way to go. Otherwise bend them over or as you suggest cut them off... I've run into situations where replacing the framing was the best option as removing the old decking and fasteners was not working out well at all and my time was worth far more than the cost of the new materials. |
Removing stainless steel trim head screws
On 9/4/2018 10:09 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, September 4, 2018 at 9:32:26 PM UTC-4, John Grossbohlin wrote: "Dick Snyder" wrote in message ... Without going into a lot of detail, I have to remove about 200 stainless steel trim head screws from a deck made of Cambara. When I have used my power drill in the past, the heads have broken off because the stainless You might try tightening them a little before trying to back them out... That approach has solved a lot of removal problems for me in the past. On the other hand, it might just break the head off which leads to another possible solution! Another option is to break all the heads off, pry the board off and then back out the screws by chucking them in a drill. That has worked for me too. Alternatively, break the heads off, pry the board off, and bend the remaining screw over... some may snap off some my not. If you are replacing the deck boards the remains of the screws will be hidden. I think that trying to chuck 200 "screw remains" in a drill would be a real pain. Close, open, close, open, over and over again. I think cutting them flush with any one of various tools would be quicker/easier. Regardless of the head or the condition of the head I find that an impact driver typically removes a stuck screw quick. |
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