My buddy is trying to determine the best way to roof the treehouse he is building. He is ready to start cutting the rafters, but he is not sure how
to deal with the trunks. You'll notice the issue immediately.

We have some ideas, but I don't want to influence anyone, so I'll keep them
to myself for now.

This question is mainly about rafter layout, not about sealing the roof
from rain, although suggestions/experience related to that are also welcome.

Ground Level View

https://i.imgur.com/AS3HhDw.jpg

Crotch Level View (leave it alone!)
The board is there just to show the height of the crotch

https://i.imgur.com/xuP7NfY.jpg

Bird's Eye View (simulated)

https://i.imgur.com/VI41CBE.jpg

The smaller branches are not an issue, they will be cut. It's the 2 main
trunks that need to be dealt with. Based on the location of the trunks,
neither 16" OC or 24" OC will clear them.

Have fun!

On 7/25/18 10:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My buddy is trying to determine the best way to roof the treehouse he is building. He is ready to start cutting the rafters, but he is not sure how
to deal with the trunks. You'll notice the issue immediately.

We have some ideas, but I don't want to influence anyone, so I'll keep them
to myself for now.

This question is mainly about rafter layout, not about sealing the roof
from rain, although suggestions/experience related to that are also welcome.

Ground Level View

https://i.imgur.com/AS3HhDw.jpg

Crotch Level View (leave it alone!)
The board is there just to show the height of the crotch

https://i.imgur.com/xuP7NfY.jpg

Bird's Eye View (simulated)

https://i.imgur.com/VI41CBE.jpg

The smaller branches are not an issue, they will be cut. It's the 2 main
trunks that need to be dealt with. Based on the location of the trunks,
neither 16" OC or 24" OC will clear them.

Have fun!


First thing that jumps out to me is a four sided hip roof and pyramid
hip roof.
All the rafters would terminate near the two trunks and you could get
creative with how it all joins together at the peak.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 10:51:27 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

First thing that jumps out to me is a four sided hip roof and pyramid
hip roof.
All the rafters would terminate near the two trunks and you could get
creative with how it all joins together at the peak.

Hmmm.... I would certainly hope that the carpenters had that skill set. I am thinking of trying to header off the common rafters someway, then creating a stable frame to hold up the hip rafters, then fitting in each jack rafter (cheek cuts on one end, bird's mouth on the other)in an unsquare and unstable roof structure. A lot of work for a tree house.

I looked at the pics and the last drawing said that there was a "preferred" direction of the rafters. Personally, I would change that. Then you could make a simple offset gable roof that used all common rafters and simply block out around the trunks. In fact, you could cut the roof closely enough around the tree trunks that you could flash the base of the penetration, then attach a counter flashing (like a storm collar) around both trees and solve the water proofing as well. By counter flashing the penetrations (trees) in that fashion they would not be compromised in a windy environment.

Robert

On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 11:51:27 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
On 7/25/18 10:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My buddy is trying to determine the best way to roof the treehouse he is building. He is ready to start cutting the rafters, but he is not sure how
to deal with the trunks. You'll notice the issue immediately.

We have some ideas, but I don't want to influence anyone, so I'll keep them
to myself for now.

This question is mainly about rafter layout, not about sealing the roof
from rain, although suggestions/experience related to that are also welcome.

Ground Level View

https://i.imgur.com/AS3HhDw.jpg

Crotch Level View (leave it alone!)
The board is there just to show the height of the crotch

https://i.imgur.com/xuP7NfY.jpg

Bird's Eye View (simulated)

https://i.imgur.com/VI41CBE.jpg

The smaller branches are not an issue, they will be cut. It's the 2 main
trunks that need to be dealt with. Based on the location of the trunks,
neither 16" OC or 24" OC will clear them.

Have fun!


First thing that jumps out to me is a four sided hip roof and pyramid
hip roof.
All the rafters would terminate near the two trunks and you could get
creative with how it all joins together at the peak.



That's probably not happening unless he hires it out. That's not happening.

His kids, his build. ;-)

On Thursday, July 26, 2018 at 3:41:35 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 10:51:27 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

First thing that jumps out to me is a four sided hip roof and pyramid
hip roof.
All the rafters would terminate near the two trunks and you could get
creative with how it all joins together at the peak.

Hmmm.... I would certainly hope that the carpenters had that skill set. I am thinking of trying to header off the common rafters someway, then creating a stable frame to hold up the hip rafters, then fitting in each jack rafter (cheek cuts on one end, bird's mouth on the other)in an unsquare and unstable roof structure. A lot of work for a tree house.

I looked at the pics and the last drawing said that there was a "preferred" direction of the rafters. Personally, I would change that. Then you could make a simple offset gable roof that used all common rafters and simply block out around the trunks. In fact, you could cut the roof closely enough around the tree trunks that you could flash the base of the penetration, then attach a counter flashing (like a storm collar) around both trees and solve the water proofing as well. By counter flashing the penetrations (trees) in that fashion they would not be compromised in a windy environment.

Robert

That was one the ideas we had.

The reason for the "preferred direction" and center ridge is because of the view. He is hoping
to have the gable face the house instead of a bunch of shingles.

After a few more responses, I'll ask a question about an idea we had to retain the preferred
direction.

On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 10:03:57 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My buddy is trying to determine the best way to roof the treehouse he is building.

The house seems to be only about 10' X 10'. That's not so large that a standard type layout is sufficient, especially if he uses 2X6 ceiling & roof joists, rather than using 2X4s. Beyond a standard layout, he should be able to improvise, reasonably so, the necessary structure around the tree trunks.

Also, and besides, what's wrong with adding a few extra rafters, if & where need be, where standard alignment won't align/fit, i.e., rather than all rafters/joists being 16" OC, some could be 24", 10" or 8" apart... whichever fits. The 2X6s would be more than strong enough to accommodate any offset rafter/joist alignment, for that small size room. Also, a diagonal rafter running between the trunks AND between two normally running (~~ adjacent) rafters, should be no problem for sufficient support & stability.

Overkill? Use some Simpson strong ties to further the joinings.

Sonny

On 7/26/18 2:41 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 10:51:27 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

First thing that jumps out to me is a four sided hip roof and
pyramid hip roof. All the rafters would terminate near the two
trunks and you could get creative with how it all joins together at
the peak.

Hmmm.... I would certainly hope that the carpenters had that skill
set. I am thinking of trying to header off the common rafters
someway, then creating a stable frame to hold up the hip rafters,
then fitting in each jack rafter (cheek cuts on one end, bird's mouth
on the other)in an unsquare and unstable roof structure. A lot of
work for a tree house.

I looked at the pics and the last drawing said that there was a
"preferred" direction of the rafters. Personally, I would change
that. Then you could make a simple offset gable roof that used all
common rafters and simply block out around the trunks. In fact, you
could cut the roof closely enough around the tree trunks that you
could flash the base of the penetration, then attach a counter
flashing (like a storm collar) around both trees and solve the water
proofing as well. By counter flashing the penetrations (trees) in
that fashion they would not be compromised in a windy environment.

Robert


What's been done so far looks pretty legit, so I assumed the builder had
a decent skillset to begin with.

However, even with the preferred rafter direction, he could sandwich the
tree trunks and have a rafter going between the two. Then just block in
around them.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Thursday, July 26, 2018 at 10:25:35 AM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
On 7/26/18 2:41 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 10:51:27 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

First thing that jumps out to me is a four sided hip roof and
pyramid hip roof. All the rafters would terminate near the two
trunks and you could get creative with how it all joins together at
the peak.

Hmmm.... I would certainly hope that the carpenters had that skill
set. I am thinking of trying to header off the common rafters
someway, then creating a stable frame to hold up the hip rafters,
then fitting in each jack rafter (cheek cuts on one end, bird's mouth
on the other)in an unsquare and unstable roof structure. A lot of
work for a tree house.

I looked at the pics and the last drawing said that there was a
"preferred" direction of the rafters. Personally, I would change
that. Then you could make a simple offset gable roof that used all
common rafters and simply block out around the trunks. In fact, you
could cut the roof closely enough around the tree trunks that you
could flash the base of the penetration, then attach a counter
flashing (like a storm collar) around both trees and solve the water
proofing as well. By counter flashing the penetrations (trees) in
that fashion they would not be compromised in a windy environment.

Robert


What's been done so far looks pretty legit, so I assumed the builder had
a decent skillset to begin with.

Well his skill set is growing along with the tree house. I've done decks and
walls, etc. so I've been coaching him a bit in that regard. He picked up a lot
of "treehouse" support structure skills from the company that he bought the
treehouse hardware from. He's a pretty smart guy in general.


However, even with the preferred rafter direction, he could sandwich the
tree trunks and have a rafter going between the two. Then just block in
around them.


That's basically where we were heading. Just looking for some other options
from the real experts.

On Thursday, July 26, 2018 at 9:35:46 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 10:03:57 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My buddy is trying to determine the best way to roof the treehouse he is building.

The house seems to be only about 10' X 10'. That's not so large that a standard type layout is sufficient, especially if he uses 2X6 ceiling & roof joists, rather than using 2X4s. Beyond a standard layout, he should be able to improvise, reasonably so, the necessary structure around the tree trunks.

Also, and besides, what's wrong with adding a few extra rafters, if & where need be, where standard alignment won't align/fit, i.e., rather than all rafters/joists being 16" OC, some could be 24", 10" or 8" apart... whichever fits. The 2X6s would be more than strong enough to accommodate any offset rafter/joist alignment, for that small size room. Also, a diagonal rafter running between the trunks AND between two normally running (~~ adjacent) rafters, should be no problem for sufficient support & stability.

That is very close to what we had in mind, other than the "diagonal" rafter
between the trunks. Considered it, not sure it's needed.

The main idea was to "box" in each trunk with 2x6's and run a rafter from the
wall to the both corners of each box, if that makes sense. Something like this,
although I realize that there are all sorts of angle and rafter heights to
deal with.

https://i.imgur.com/JTUQ4RN.jpg


Overkill? Use some Simpson strong ties to further the joinings.

Sonny

On Thursday, July 26, 2018 at 10:46:05 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:


That is very close to what we had in mind, other than the "diagonal" rafter
between the trunks. Considered it, not sure it's needed.

The main idea was to "box" in each trunk with 2x6's

Along the line of over kill(?), your "not sure it's needed" comment: The trunks to be boxed in, with the boxing members at 90°. A diagonal bracing, in the corners or in some fashion, would further prevent racking, if the boxed joints area are the weakest, in the structure's whole system.

I don't know tree house construction. Maybe my idea of a more rigid framing system is not correct. Maybe the structure needs to be a little flexible, for when the trees move in the wind, etc. But I would think one needs to guard against too much racking, potential racking.

Sonny

On Wed, 25 Jul 2018 20:03:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

My buddy is trying to determine the best way to roof the treehouse he is building.
He is ready to start cutting the rafters, but he is not sure how
to deal with the trunks. You'll notice the issue immediately.
We have some ideas, but I don't want to influence anyone, so I'll keep them
to myself for now.
This question is mainly about rafter layout, not about sealing the roof
from rain, although suggestions/experience related to that are also welcome.
Ground Level View
https://i.imgur.com/AS3HhDw.jpg
Crotch Level View (leave it alone!)
The board is there just to show the height of the crotch
https://i.imgur.com/xuP7NfY.jpg
Bird's Eye View (simulated)
https://i.imgur.com/VI41CBE.jpg
The smaller branches are not an issue, they will be cut. It's the 2 main
trunks that need to be dealt with. Based on the location of the trunks,
neither 16" OC or 24" OC will clear them.
Have fun!


Just thinking outside-the-box - if it doesn't need to be
weather-tight or insect-tight perhaps a couple or three
colourful tarps could be used .. ?
John T.

On Thursday, July 26, 2018 at 2:17:14 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jul 2018 20:03:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

My buddy is trying to determine the best way to roof the treehouse he is building.
He is ready to start cutting the rafters, but he is not sure how
to deal with the trunks. You'll notice the issue immediately.
We have some ideas, but I don't want to influence anyone, so I'll keep them
to myself for now.
This question is mainly about rafter layout, not about sealing the roof
from rain, although suggestions/experience related to that are also welcome.
Ground Level View
https://i.imgur.com/AS3HhDw.jpg
Crotch Level View (leave it alone!)
The board is there just to show the height of the crotch
https://i.imgur.com/xuP7NfY.jpg
Bird's Eye View (simulated)
https://i.imgur.com/VI41CBE.jpg
The smaller branches are not an issue, they will be cut. It's the 2 main
trunks that need to be dealt with. Based on the location of the trunks,
neither 16" OC or 24" OC will clear them.
Have fun!


Just thinking outside-the-box - if it doesn't need to be
weather-tight or insect-tight perhaps a couple or three
colourful tarps could be used .. ?
John T.

As I mentioned to my buddy last night: A couple of tarps would be pretty
easy to install. And easy to install again. And easy to install again. And
easy to install again. And easy to install again.

;-)

On Thu, 26 Jul 2018 12:06:46 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Thursday, July 26, 2018 at 2:17:14 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jul 2018 20:03:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

My buddy is trying to determine the best way to roof the treehouse he is building.
He is ready to start cutting the rafters, but he is not sure how
to deal with the trunks. You'll notice the issue immediately.
We have some ideas, but I don't want to influence anyone, so I'll keep them
to myself for now.
This question is mainly about rafter layout, not about sealing the roof
from rain, although suggestions/experience related to that are also welcome.
Ground Level View
https://i.imgur.com/AS3HhDw.jpg
Crotch Level View (leave it alone!)
The board is there just to show the height of the crotch
https://i.imgur.com/xuP7NfY.jpg
Bird's Eye View (simulated)
https://i.imgur.com/VI41CBE.jpg
The smaller branches are not an issue, they will be cut. It's the 2 main
trunks that need to be dealt with. Based on the location of the trunks,
neither 16" OC or 24" OC will clear them.
Have fun!


Just thinking outside-the-box - if it doesn't need to be
weather-tight or insect-tight perhaps a couple or three
colourful tarps could be used .. ?
John T.

As I mentioned to my buddy last night: A couple of tarps would be pretty
easy to install. And easy to install again. And easy to install again. And
easy to install again. And easy to install again.
;-)


I used one on my stand-alone play structure - bright blue 6 x 8 -
it would last about 4 years - so I replaced it 2 or 3 times in the
life of the structure - easy & cheap..
John T.

On Thursday, July 26, 2018 at 3:37:06 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thu, 26 Jul 2018 12:06:46 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Thursday, July 26, 2018 at 2:17:14 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jul 2018 20:03:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

My buddy is trying to determine the best way to roof the treehouse he is building.
He is ready to start cutting the rafters, but he is not sure how
to deal with the trunks. You'll notice the issue immediately.
We have some ideas, but I don't want to influence anyone, so I'll keep them
to myself for now.
This question is mainly about rafter layout, not about sealing the roof
from rain, although suggestions/experience related to that are also welcome.
Ground Level View
https://i.imgur.com/AS3HhDw.jpg
Crotch Level View (leave it alone!)
The board is there just to show the height of the crotch
https://i.imgur.com/xuP7NfY.jpg
Bird's Eye View (simulated)
https://i.imgur.com/VI41CBE.jpg
The smaller branches are not an issue, they will be cut. It's the 2 main
trunks that need to be dealt with. Based on the location of the trunks,
neither 16" OC or 24" OC will clear them.
Have fun!


Just thinking outside-the-box - if it doesn't need to be
weather-tight or insect-tight perhaps a couple or three
colourful tarps could be used .. ?
John T.

As I mentioned to my buddy last night: A couple of tarps would be pretty
easy to install. And easy to install again. And easy to install again. And
easy to install again. And easy to install again.
;-)


I used one on my stand-alone play structure - bright blue 6 x 8 -
it would last about 4 years - so I replaced it 2 or 3 times in the
life of the structure - easy & cheap..
John T.

I'll wager that the tarp on your play structure looked more like this...

http://qaria.co/wp-content/uploads/2...ng-walmart.jpg

....than this:

https://i.imgur.com/UhTlqtO.jpg?1

My point is that there is not going to be any way to neatly - and tautly -
put a tarp over a 10' x 10' square structure that has a double trunk tree
coming up through the middle of it

Wind, rain, snow and gravity are sworn enemies of sloppy tarps.

I know you said "if it doesn't need to be weather-tight" but other than
building a large box around the tree and running the tarps in 4 directions,
leaving a huge hole in the middle, I don't see a way to use a tarp and have
it last. And if there is a hole the size of the 2 trunks in the roof, I don't
think it would be proper to call it a tree *house* anymore. ;-)

On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 11:03:57 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My buddy is trying to determine the best way to roof the treehouse he is building. He is ready to start cutting the rafters, but he is not sure how
to deal with the trunks. You'll notice the issue immediately.

We have some ideas, but I don't want to influence anyone, so I'll keep them
to myself for now.

This question is mainly about rafter layout, not about sealing the roof
from rain, although suggestions/experience related to that are also welcome.

Ground Level View

https://i.imgur.com/AS3HhDw.jpg

Crotch Level View (leave it alone!)
The board is there just to show the height of the crotch

https://i.imgur.com/xuP7NfY.jpg

Bird's Eye View (simulated)

https://i.imgur.com/VI41CBE.jpg

The smaller branches are not an issue, they will be cut. It's the 2 main
trunks that need to be dealt with. Based on the location of the trunks,
neither 16" OC or 24" OC will clear them.

Have fun!

So here is what my buddy ended up doing. He totally expects some leakage
down the tree trunk and will deal with it - or not - once the rest of the
tree house is done.

Boxed out trees, rafter layout:

https://i.imgur.com/XnBzu9y.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/evhVIRB.jpg

Inner tubes used for seals, shingled roof.
Tar, etc. will strategically applied later

https://i.imgur.com/ic9HNZg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Drt85Ph.jpg

Exterior view so far- Funky look of siding is caused by coating of sawdust
which will be cleaned off.

https://i.imgur.com/Idjtg2N.jpg

On 9/4/2018 5:51 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 11:03:57 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My buddy is trying to determine the best way to roof the treehouse he is building. He is ready to start cutting the rafters, but he is not sure how
to deal with the trunks. You'll notice the issue immediately.

We have some ideas, but I don't want to influence anyone, so I'll keep them
to myself for now.

This question is mainly about rafter layout, not about sealing the roof
from rain, although suggestions/experience related to that are also welcome.

Ground Level View

https://i.imgur.com/AS3HhDw.jpg

Crotch Level View (leave it alone!)
The board is there just to show the height of the crotch

https://i.imgur.com/xuP7NfY.jpg

Bird's Eye View (simulated)

https://i.imgur.com/VI41CBE.jpg

The smaller branches are not an issue, they will be cut. It's the 2 main
trunks that need to be dealt with. Based on the location of the trunks,
neither 16" OC or 24" OC will clear them.

Have fun!

So here is what my buddy ended up doing. He totally expects some leakage
down the tree trunk and will deal with it - or not - once the rest of the
tree house is done.

Boxed out trees, rafter layout:

https://i.imgur.com/XnBzu9y.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/evhVIRB.jpg

Inner tubes used for seals, shingled roof.
Tar, etc. will strategically applied later

https://i.imgur.com/ic9HNZg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Drt85Ph.jpg

Exterior view so far- Funky look of siding is caused by coating of sawdust
which will be cleaned off.

https://i.imgur.com/Idjtg2N.jpg



I know that 20/20 hind sight is pretty common but it appears that this
is not so much of a tree house as a small storage room with a tree
interrupting the middle of it. Might have been just as effective and
easier if built close to the tree. Cool solution but I guess it became
an exercise in solving a problem vs. what it ended up being.

On Tuesday, September 4, 2018 at 7:14:44 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 9/4/2018 5:51 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 11:03:57 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My buddy is trying to determine the best way to roof the treehouse he is building. He is ready to start cutting the rafters, but he is not sure how
to deal with the trunks. You'll notice the issue immediately.

We have some ideas, but I don't want to influence anyone, so I'll keep them
to myself for now.

This question is mainly about rafter layout, not about sealing the roof
from rain, although suggestions/experience related to that are also welcome.

Ground Level View

https://i.imgur.com/AS3HhDw.jpg

Crotch Level View (leave it alone!)
The board is there just to show the height of the crotch

https://i.imgur.com/xuP7NfY.jpg

Bird's Eye View (simulated)

https://i.imgur.com/VI41CBE.jpg

The smaller branches are not an issue, they will be cut. It's the 2 main
trunks that need to be dealt with. Based on the location of the trunks,
neither 16" OC or 24" OC will clear them.

Have fun!

So here is what my buddy ended up doing. He totally expects some leakage
down the tree trunk and will deal with it - or not - once the rest of the
tree house is done.

Boxed out trees, rafter layout:

https://i.imgur.com/XnBzu9y.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/evhVIRB.jpg

Inner tubes used for seals, shingled roof.
Tar, etc. will strategically applied later

https://i.imgur.com/ic9HNZg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Drt85Ph.jpg

Exterior view so far- Funky look of siding is caused by coating of sawdust
which will be cleaned off.

https://i.imgur.com/Idjtg2N.jpg



I know that 20/20 hind sight is pretty common but it appears that this
is not so much of a tree house as a small storage room with a tree
interrupting the middle of it. Might have been just as effective and
easier if built close to the tree. Cool solution but I guess it became
an exercise in solving a problem vs. what it ended up being.

What it ended up being is a show of love from a father to his children.

Add a few pieces of furniture, some games and a sleeping bag or two and
it will be so much more than a "small storage room with a tree interrupting
the middle of it."

Sometimes we forget to see world through the eyes of a child. I try to
do it as often as I can. It makes the simple things in life so much fun.

On 9/4/2018 7:41 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, September 4, 2018 at 7:14:44 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 9/4/2018 5:51 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 11:03:57 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
My buddy is trying to determine the best way to roof the treehouse he is building. He is ready to start cutting the rafters, but he is not sure how
to deal with the trunks. You'll notice the issue immediately.

We have some ideas, but I don't want to influence anyone, so I'll keep them
to myself for now.

This question is mainly about rafter layout, not about sealing the roof
from rain, although suggestions/experience related to that are also welcome.

Ground Level View

https://i.imgur.com/AS3HhDw.jpg

Crotch Level View (leave it alone!)
The board is there just to show the height of the crotch

https://i.imgur.com/xuP7NfY.jpg

Bird's Eye View (simulated)

https://i.imgur.com/VI41CBE.jpg

The smaller branches are not an issue, they will be cut. It's the 2 main
trunks that need to be dealt with. Based on the location of the trunks,
neither 16" OC or 24" OC will clear them.

Have fun!

So here is what my buddy ended up doing. He totally expects some leakage
down the tree trunk and will deal with it - or not - once the rest of the
tree house is done.

Boxed out trees, rafter layout:

https://i.imgur.com/XnBzu9y.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/evhVIRB.jpg

Inner tubes used for seals, shingled roof.
Tar, etc. will strategically applied later

https://i.imgur.com/ic9HNZg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Drt85Ph.jpg

Exterior view so far- Funky look of siding is caused by coating of sawdust
which will be cleaned off.

https://i.imgur.com/Idjtg2N.jpg



I know that 20/20 hind sight is pretty common but it appears that this
is not so much of a tree house as a small storage room with a tree
interrupting the middle of it. Might have been just as effective and
easier if built close to the tree. Cool solution but I guess it became
an exercise in solving a problem vs. what it ended up being.

What it ended up being is a show of love from a father to his children.

Add a few pieces of furniture, some games and a sleeping bag or two and
it will be so much more than a "small storage room with a tree interrupting
the middle of it."

Sometimes we forget to see world through the eyes of a child. I try to
do it as often as I can. It makes the simple things in life so much fun.


That too! ;~)

On Tuesday, September 4, 2018 at 5:51:42 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:


Inner tubes used for seals, shingled roof.
Tar, etc. will strategically applied later

https://i.imgur.com/ic9HNZg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Drt85Ph.jpg

Some thoughts:
Not sure just how he is to seal the inner tubes to the shingles and/or further roof topping. Might want to recommend, to him, to use spray adhesive, for auto head-liners (from your local auto parts store) or foam adhesive (from your local fabric shop).... the two spray glues are essentially the same. This adhesive may not seal the minute
"holes" as per from the shingle's small gravel, but it should allow good adhesion of the inner tube to the shingles. They are for rubber products.

Spray on generously, allow to dry for a minute or two, then press the materials together. Clean up any residual glue (from hands and the like) with mineral spirits/paint thinner. This adhesive might be better than the shingle tacks, but doesn't hurt to use both. Probably $4 per can of spray, at least 2 cans needed.

I'm kinna thinking tar won't stick to the rubber inner tubes, but I don't really know. The non-tar roofing sealant/adhesive might stick to the rubber tubes, maybe better than the spray adhesive. Might want to read the labels, to compare adhesion properties.

Sonny