https://www.harborfreight.com/saw-mi...ine-62366.html

nothing visible holding the material

for that material a beam saw with the right blade would be faster
and give a much cleaner cut

max capacity is 20 inch log but it does not look like it could do that
maybe that plate in the throat moves up and down


that just needs a trailer to be complete otherwise there would be a need
to make sure it is level

maybe if it was on a concrete slab

Electric Comet on Fri, 6 Jul 2018
08:51:35 -0700 typed in rec.woodworking the following:


https://www.harborfreight.com/saw-mi...ine-62366.html

nothing visible holding the material

for that material a beam saw with the right blade would be faster
and give a much cleaner cut

And you can haul said beam saw out into the woods?

max capacity is 20 inch log but it does not look like it could do that
maybe that plate in the throat moves up and down

Yep.


that just needs a trailer to be complete otherwise there would be a need
to make sure it is level

Doesn't need to be "level" - the saw unit rides on the rails. If
you're daring enough, you could mount it nearly vertical.

maybe if it was on a concrete slab

Then it would not be portable

This is an up scaled rough lumber saw. Bigger & more elaborate
than an "Alaskan Mill" using a chain saw. "Perfect" if you want beams
or planks for construction at a "remote site, where trucking finished
lumber in is more work than it is worth.
--
pyotr filipivich
Next month's Panel: Graft - Boon or blessing?

On Fri, 6 Jul 2018 08:51:35 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

https://www.harborfreight.com/saw-mi...ine-62366.html

nothing visible holding the material
for that material a beam saw with the right blade would be faster
and give a much cleaner cut
max capacity is 20 inch log but it does not look like it could do that
maybe that plate in the throat moves up and down
that just needs a trailer to be complete otherwise there would be a need
to make sure it is level
maybe if it was on a concrete slab



I would be carefully comparing it to the other portable bandsaws on
the market - this one looks like it has a flimsy frame - hard to
tell from the photo ..
These units take a beating, in the field - big heavy logs and
timbers being loaded with tractor or bobcat .. you do not want
to bend or kink or bow the frame when it is also the track !
John T.

On Friday, July 6, 2018 at 11:41:03 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 6 Jul 2018 08:51:35 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:

https://www.harborfreight.com/saw-mi...ine-62366.html

nothing visible holding the material
for that material a beam saw with the right blade would be faster
and give a much cleaner cut
max capacity is 20 inch log but it does not look like it could do that
maybe that plate in the throat moves up and down
that just needs a trailer to be complete otherwise there would be a need
to make sure it is level
maybe if it was on a concrete slab



I would be carefully comparing it to the other portable bandsaws on
the market - this one looks like it has a flimsy frame - hard to
tell from the photo ..
These units take a beating, in the field - big heavy logs and
timbers being loaded with tractor or bobcat .. you do not want
to bend or kink or bow the frame when it is also the track !
John T.

When I win the lottery, I'm buying this:

https://www.hud-son.com/product/hfe-...eader-sawmill/

https://www.harborfreight.com/saw-mi...ine-62366.html

nothing visible holding the material
for that material a beam saw with the right blade would be faster
and give a much cleaner cut
max capacity is 20 inch log but it does not look like it could do that
maybe that plate in the throat moves up and down
that just needs a trailer to be complete otherwise there would be a need
to make sure it is level
maybe if it was on a concrete slab



I would be carefully comparing it to the other portable bandsaws on
the market - this one looks like it has a flimsy frame - hard to
tell from the photo ..
These units take a beating, in the field - big heavy logs and
timbers being loaded with tractor or bobcat .. you do not want
to bend or kink or bow the frame when it is also the track !
John T.


When I win the lottery, I'm buying this:

https://www.hud-son.com/product/hfe-...eader-sawmill/



21 inch max. log diameter 6.5 HP engine ?
You'll probably be trading it for a larger unit - why not start
out with the bigger one ? Especially after the Lotto win ! :-)
Old buddy had a 30 inch with a 13 hp ? Honda -
- Silva-Saw brand - served him well - cutting for a lot of
farmers over many years, as a part-time retirement business.
John T.

On Fri, 6 Jul 2018 08:51:35 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:



https://www.harborfreight.com/saw-mi...ine-62366.html

nothing visible holding the material

You mean besides gravity?

for that material a beam saw with the right blade would be faster
and give a much cleaner cut

So can you get such a saw for that price that can handle a 20 inch
width?

max capacity is 20 inch log but it does not look like it could do that
maybe that plate in the throat moves up and down

Doesn't say it can cut one in half. It's clearly intended for turning
logs into rough lumber.

that just needs a trailer to be complete otherwise there would be a need
to make sure it is level

maybe if it was on a concrete slab

Or a wood floor or any other level surface.

On Friday, July 6, 2018 at 11:51:40 AM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
https://www.harborfreight.com/saw-mi...ine-62366.html

nothing visible holding the material

for that material a beam saw with the right blade would be faster
and give a much cleaner cut

max capacity is 20 inch log but it does not look like it could do that
maybe that plate in the throat moves up and down


that just needs a trailer to be complete otherwise there would be a need
to make sure it is level

maybe if it was on a concrete slab

Level is not the main concern and may not even be deisrable.

From: http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...your_mill.html

"When calibrating the surface of your bed, using a 4' level is a good tool.
However, a 4' level will not show a camber or twist in your bed. However
slight they may be, they will affect the final quality of your lumber. If
there is even a slight twist in your bed, as the carriage travels over that
twist, you will be sawing that twist in your cant. Then, when you turn your
cant 180 degrees, that twist is compounded to the other side of the cant. This
will give you uneven lumber, and you may tear your hair out trying to figure
out why. A camber will do basically the same thing. The best tool to use is a
transit if your bed is 18' or longer to make sure your setup is correct. We
hold our bed tolerance to +/- .060" all around. We then check the location of
the blade to the bed at every cross member to maintain consistency. You may
also have bridging rods under your bed. By tightening or loosening them, they
will cause or cure camber and twist as well. A flat bed makes a big
difference!"

Some folks at that site don't want it level. They lean the rig down hill
'cuz they've heard of gravity.

Electric Comet wrote:

maybe if it was on a concrete slab

build it on unused commas and periods and you will be ok
https://www.youtube.com/embed/91uiGX...toplay=1&rel=0

https://www.youtube.com/embed/B9oEkl...toplay=1&rel=0

On Friday, July 6, 2018 at 9:49:55 PM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
Electric Comet wrote:

maybe if it was on a concrete slab

build it on unused commas and periods and you will be ok
https://www.youtube.com/embed/91uiGX...toplay=1&rel=0

https://www.youtube.com/embed/B9oEkl...toplay=1&rel=0

And I thought miter saws had lousy dust collection! ;-)

On Friday, July 6, 2018 at 10:51:40 AM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
https://www.harborfreight.com/saw-mi...ine-62366.html

nothing visible holding the material

for that material a beam saw with the right blade would be faster
and give a much cleaner cut

max capacity is 20 inch log but it does not look like it could do that
maybe that plate in the throat moves up and down


that just needs a trailer to be complete otherwise there would be a need
to make sure it is level

maybe if it was on a concrete slab

Given this has no hydraulics, this thing is going to work you to death.

But for $2,200 you can put in a bit of sweat.

DerbyDad03 on Fri, 6 Jul 2018 18:39:13 -0700
(PDT) typed in rec.woodworking the following:
On Friday, July 6, 2018 at 11:51:40 AM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
https://www.harborfreight.com/saw-mi...ine-62366.html
nothing visible holding the material
for that material a beam saw with the right blade would be faster
and give a much cleaner cut
max capacity is 20 inch log but it does not look like it could do that
maybe that plate in the throat moves up and down
that just needs a trailer to be complete otherwise there would be a need
to make sure it is level
maybe if it was on a concrete slab
Level is not the main concern and may not even be deisrable.

From: http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...your_mill.html

"When calibrating the surface of your bed, using a 4' level is a good tool.
However, a 4' level will not show a camber or twist in your bed. However
slight they may be, they will affect the final quality of your lumber. If
there is even a slight twist in your bed, as the carriage travels over that
twist, you will be sawing that twist in your cant. Then, when you turn your
cant 180 degrees, that twist is compounded to the other side of the cant. This
will give you uneven lumber, and you may tear your hair out trying to figure
out why. A camber will do basically the same thing. The best tool to use is a
transit if your bed is 18' or longer to make sure your setup is correct. We
hold our bed tolerance to +/- .060" all around. We then check the location of
the blade to the bed at every cross member to maintain consistency. You may
also have bridging rods under your bed. By tightening or loosening them, they
will cause or cure camber and twist as well. A flat bed makes a big
difference!"

Some folks at that site don't want it level. They lean the rig down hill
'cuz they've heard of gravity.

I worked as a machinist for a while. Relevant to this discussion
is the difference between "flat" and "level". In short, you have a
"box" N units high in which the line/surface has to be, in order to be
flat. If said box is also perpendicular to gravity, then your "flat"
surface is also "level".
So in this case, I want those rails "flat" (I.e., inside a 1/8
high "box") more than I care for "level". Although there probably is
a degree of levelness which is more ideal than others.
--
pyotr filipivich
Next month's Panel: Graft - Boon or blessing?

pyotr filipivich wrote:

DerbyDad03 on Fri, 6 Jul 2018 18:39:13 -0700
(PDT) typed in rec.woodworking the following:
On Friday, July 6, 2018 at 11:51:40 AM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
https://www.harborfreight.com/saw-mi...ine-62366.html
nothing visible holding the material
for that material a beam saw with the right blade would be faster
and give a much cleaner cut
max capacity is 20 inch log but it does not look like it could do that
maybe that plate in the throat moves up and down
that just needs a trailer to be complete otherwise there would be a need
to make sure it is level
maybe if it was on a concrete slab
Level is not the main concern and may not even be deisrable.

From: http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...your_mill.html

"When calibrating the surface of your bed, using a 4' level is a good tool.
However, a 4' level will not show a camber or twist in your bed. However
slight they may be, they will affect the final quality of your lumber. If
there is even a slight twist in your bed, as the carriage travels over that
twist, you will be sawing that twist in your cant. Then, when you turn your
cant 180 degrees, that twist is compounded to the other side of the cant. This
will give you uneven lumber, and you may tear your hair out trying to figure
out why. A camber will do basically the same thing. The best tool to use is a
transit if your bed is 18' or longer to make sure your setup is correct. We
hold our bed tolerance to +/- .060" all around. We then check the location of
the blade to the bed at every cross member to maintain consistency. You may
also have bridging rods under your bed. By tightening or loosening them, they
will cause or cure camber and twist as well. A flat bed makes a big
difference!"

Some folks at that site don't want it level. They lean the rig down hill
'cuz they've heard of gravity.

I worked as a machinist for a while. Relevant to this discussion
is the difference between "flat" and "level". In short, you have a
"box" N units high in which the line/surface has to be, in order to be
flat. If said box is also perpendicular to gravity, then your "flat"
surface is also "level".

https://www.youtube.com/embed/gn4li_...start=20&rel=0

On Fri, 06 Jul 2018 12:43:35 wrote:

I would be carefully comparing it to the other portable bandsaws on
the market - this one looks like it has a flimsy frame - hard to
tell from the photo ..

they compare to another brand which has much beefier cross members
and more room for loader forks which lists for 2900 but could probably
get for similar price as hf or with some patience much less as used

On Fri, 6 Jul 2018 18:39:13 wrote:

Some folks at that site don't want it level. They lean the rig down
hill 'cuz they've heard of gravity.

love to see the hf setup utilizing gravity with that material

the saw chasing the wood

On Fri, 06 Jul 2018 09:30:58 wrote:

And you can haul said beam saw out into the woods?

can you haul this saw into the woods

Doesn't need to be "level" - the saw unit rides on the
rails. If you're daring enough, you could mount it nearly vertical.

yeah sure

This is an up scaled rough lumber saw. Bigger & more
elaborate than an "Alaskan Mill" using a chain saw. "Perfect" if you

chainsaw probably be the better choice out in the wood since bandsaws
are not as portable


look at the cnc chainsaws used in the clt industry

On Sunday, July 8, 2018 at 12:50:28 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
On Fri, 6 Jul 2018 18:39:13 wrote:

Some folks at that site don't want it level. They lean the rig down
hill 'cuz they've heard of gravity.

love to see the hf setup utilizing gravity with that material

the saw chasing the wood

They've also heard of friction...and stops.

Electric Comet on Sun, 8 Jul 2018
09:58:39 -0700 typed in rec.woodworking the following:
On Fri, 06 Jul 2018 09:30:58 wrote:

And you can haul said beam saw out into the woods?

can you haul this saw into the woods

Depends on what you mean by "haul" and "into the woods.", right?

Doesn't need to be "level" - the saw unit rides on the
rails. If you're daring enough, you could mount it nearly vertical.

yeah sure

What, now you're risk adverse? What ever happened to your sense
of adventure?
{"It died under mysterious circumstances. My sense of
self-preservation found the body, but assures me it has an airtight
alibi."}

This is an up scaled rough lumber saw. Bigger & more
elaborate than an "Alaskan Mill" using a chain saw. "Perfect" if you

chainsaw probably be the better choice out in the wood since bandsaws
are not as portable

This doesn't look like the sort of rig one could pack into a
"remote" location. (I once was looking at property where directions
concluded with "at end of gravel road, park and prepare for a five
hour hike".)

--
pyotr filipivich
Next month's Panel: Graft - Boon or blessing?

On 7/8/2018 2:56 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
....

This doesn't look like the sort of rig one could pack into a
"remote" location. (I once was looking at property where directions
concluded with "at end of gravel road, park and prepare for a five
hour hike".)

If you can get a truck in of sufficient size to need a 20" portable
mill, you can manage to trailer this bad body in there, too...back in VA
(where there _were_ trees unlike SW KS ), there were a number of
similar portable mills operating in some pretty difficult-to-get-to
places. Of course, for real commercial stuff you needed something quite
a bit bigger than 20" D, that's pretty small for an oak or the like.

--

dpb on Sun, 8 Jul 2018 16:21:06 -0500 typed in
rec.woodworking the following:
On 7/8/2018 2:56 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
...

This doesn't look like the sort of rig one could pack into a
"remote" location. (I once was looking at property where directions
concluded with "at end of gravel road, park and prepare for a five
hour hike".)

If you can get a truck in of sufficient size to need a 20" portable
mill, you can manage to trailer this bad body in there, too...back in VA
(where there _were_ trees unlike SW KS ), there were a number of
similar portable mills operating in some pretty difficult-to-get-to
places. Of course, for real commercial stuff you needed something quite
a bit bigger than 20" D, that's pretty small for an oak or the like.

It all depends on what you consider "difficult" and the like.

If you've heard of the Oso Mudslide in 2014, it took out the state
highway - buried it deep under the mud for a long stretch. One of the
responses was local logging companies throwing a road around the slide
in a matter of days. Not pretty, but functional. Logging companies
have been making practical roads for decades. Of course, once the
Feds showed up, they wanted to bar log trucks from said road. They
relented after the logging companies just parked their trucks and
blocked access to what, after all, was the road the companies had
built to handle log trucks.

If you've seen the aerial photos after the slide, you'll notice a
green "thumb" sticking into the middle of the gray. I've friends who
live there. Most of the damage to their property was from the "aid"
people afterwards. "As much as you'd like to, you can't just start
shooting people."

Anyway - to paraphrase a real estate slogan "difficult for what,
difficult for whom?"
--
pyotr filipivich
Next month's Panel: Graft - Boon or blessing?