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Default Help: Phillips screw 1/2 inch from the wall

I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not enough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!
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On Thu, 5 Jul 2018 17:07:51 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:

I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in the corner of the room.
It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch
from the wall and in tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem.
Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw.
If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not enough room anyway.
They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough
pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!




http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/pag...411,43422&ap=1


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On Thursday, July 5, 2018 at 8:07:53 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:
I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem.. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not enough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!


By "remove" do you mean "Remove as one piece" or "Remove in any way possible,
it's going the trash."?

If it's going in the trash, start breaking it into pieces until you have
better access to that one last lonely cleat, hanging by itself on the wall.

Once that's all that is left, access to the offending screw will present
itself in a multitude of ways.

Heck, if it's going the trash, cut around the screw (or cut the head off)
with a multi-function tool, remove the unit and then deal with the screw
later.
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On Thursday, July 5, 2018 at 8:07:53 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:
I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem.. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not enough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!


As far as the offset screwdriver, I have had better luck with a miniature
ratchet and quality Philips bit.

Something like one of these:

https://www.ebay.com/bhp/mini-ratchet
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On Thu, 5 Jul 2018 17:07:51 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:

I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats,
Any suggestions?

Thanks!



Do you have a 3/8 socket set with a spring extension? Pick the socket
that fits the phillips bit.


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On Thursday, July 5, 2018 at 8:24:53 PM UTC-5, Markem wrote:
On Thu, 5 Jul 2018 17:07:51 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:

I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats,
Any suggestions?

Thanks!



Do you have a 3/8 socket set with a spring extension? Pick the socket
that fits the phillips bit.


Markem,

This was it! I bought a phillips head 3/8 socket and they came right out!

Mike
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On Thursday, July 5, 2018 at 8:07:53 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:
I'm trying to remove ...small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces


if it's too close to the wall for the power driver, even a manual screwdriver is likely to need some
tilt; so, use a screwdriver with a long (18 inch) shank. It might have some small angle,
but so must the driver that put it into that corner.
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"Michael" wrote in message
...

I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in the
corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head,
longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces
(going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem.
Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the
bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not
enough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and
I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it
done manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

******************

1/4" drive - two modest length extensions and a universal joint in the
middle. A good universal Not a crappy wore out floppy one. A wobble end
extension might be enough, and won't flop like a wore out universal joint.
1/4" deep socket on the end with your driver in it. Needs to be deep to
reduce flop. Need to have a longish bit driver so it sticks out enough.
Use a small block or shim behind the extension to set the angle correctly
from the wall. Use your finger tips to hold the angle correctly up and
down. Use your drill driver to apply adequate forward pressure so the bit
doesn't skip in the screw head. I've run across Phillips tips with
serrations on the blade faces that can help with this, but in any case use a
fresh new sharp driver tip.

This is one thing I might have done more of than some of these wood working
pros. Turn screws. As a communications tech and licensed communications
contractor I've had to turn a **** ton ** of screws in the last few decades.
Often frozen in place and in odd locations with little or no clearance. (I
retired from contracting the end of 2016. I think my licenses expired last
month.)

** **** ton... kind of like a regular ton, but nastier.



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On 7/5/2018 7:07 PM, Michael wrote:
I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not enough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

I have found that an impact river will remove stripped head Phillips screws.
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On Friday, July 6, 2018 at 12:49:38 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/5/2018 7:07 PM, Michael wrote:
I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not enough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

I have found that an impact river will remove stripped head Phillips screws.


Sometimes. And sometimes the screw wins.

https://i.imgur.com/zU0PYrP.jpg

I just did that about an hour ago trying to remove those damn rotor screws
that Honda uses.

The drill was much faster. ;-)




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On Thu, 5 Jul 2018 18:15:09 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Thursday, July 5, 2018 at 8:07:53 PM UTC-4, Michael wrote:
I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not enough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!


As far as the offset screwdriver, I have had better luck with a miniature
ratchet and quality Philips bit.

Something like one of these:

https://www.ebay.com/bhp/mini-ratchet


Even better with a good 10 inch blade philips driver - the angle is so
small then that it is not a problrm.
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On 7/6/18 6:26 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, July 6, 2018 at 12:49:38 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/5/2018 7:07 PM, Michael wrote:
I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not enough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

I have found that an impact river will remove stripped head Phillips screws.


Sometimes. And sometimes the screw wins.

https://i.imgur.com/zU0PYrP.jpg

I just did that about an hour ago trying to remove those damn rotor screws
that Honda uses.

The drill was much faster. ;-)


Take a nail set or metal drill center punch and a hammer to knock them
out.
Set the punch in one of the grooves and angle it so you can hit it with
the hammer, counter-clockwise. I have found this to be the easiest way
to remove them... oh, and never put them back in. They are only there
for easier assembly in the factory.

Yeah, I know you already drilled them out, but for those listening in,
that's how you do it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com


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On Saturday, July 7, 2018 at 12:34:02 AM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
On 7/6/18 6:26 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, July 6, 2018 at 12:49:38 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/5/2018 7:07 PM, Michael wrote:
I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not enough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

I have found that an impact river will remove stripped head Phillips screws.


Sometimes. And sometimes the screw wins.

https://i.imgur.com/zU0PYrP.jpg

I just did that about an hour ago trying to remove those damn rotor screws
that Honda uses.

The drill was much faster. ;-)


Take a nail set or metal drill center punch and a hammer to knock them
out.
Set the punch in one of the grooves and angle it so you can hit it with
the hammer, counter-clockwise. I have found this to be the easiest way
to remove them... oh, and never put them back in. They are only there
for easier assembly in the factory.

Yeah, I know you already drilled them out, but for those listening in,
that's how you do it.


I've tried that method and it's been hit or miss (NPI) as has the impact
driver method. Those screws are really soft and LOS and environment really
make a difference.

Drilling never fails and the remaining shank *usually* spins right out
with a pair of pliers.



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On 7/7/18 7:10 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, July 7, 2018 at 12:34:02 AM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
On 7/6/18 6:26 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, July 6, 2018 at 12:49:38 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/5/2018 7:07 PM, Michael wrote:
I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not enough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

I have found that an impact river will remove stripped head Phillips screws.

Sometimes. And sometimes the screw wins.

https://i.imgur.com/zU0PYrP.jpg

I just did that about an hour ago trying to remove those damn rotor screws
that Honda uses.

The drill was much faster. ;-)


Take a nail set or metal drill center punch and a hammer to knock them
out.
Set the punch in one of the grooves and angle it so you can hit it with
the hammer, counter-clockwise. I have found this to be the easiest way
to remove them... oh, and never put them back in. They are only there
for easier assembly in the factory.

Yeah, I know you already drilled them out, but for those listening in,
that's how you do it.


I've tried that method and it's been hit or miss (NPI) as has the impact
driver method. Those screws are really soft and LOS and environment really
make a difference.

Drilling never fails and the remaining shank *usually* spins right out
with a pair of pliers.


All true.
And given that they are completely unnecessary, even if you messed up
the threads in the hole, it wouldn't matter.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com


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On 7/6/2018 6:26 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, July 6, 2018 at 12:49:38 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/5/2018 7:07 PM, Michael wrote:
I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not enough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

I have found that an impact river will remove stripped head Phillips screws.


Sometimes. And sometimes the screw wins.

https://i.imgur.com/zU0PYrP.jpg

I just did that about an hour ago trying to remove those damn rotor screws
that Honda uses.

The drill was much faster. ;-)



The subject was about removing wood screws, not mechanical machine
thread screws. You need impact rated bits for that application.


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On 7/6/2018 12:49 PM, Leon wrote:

I have found that an impact river will remove stripped head Phillips
screws.


Long ago when I was a kid, and was rebuilding engines, doing body work
on rusted out hulks, I had an impact driver that never failed to get out
screws, and never stripped the head if used before the head was
stripped, and generally worked if the had was stripped. A few years back
I DAGS for one of these and couldn't find one hit. Today, I found them
all over the place. The one I used 60 years ago was super quality,
can't vouch for this one, but it should be in everyone's tool box.

https://tinyurl.com/yb5bdxqh

For those that don't know, you smack the tool with a big hammer and it
turns the screw just a tad. Works like a charm on stuck screws with no
damage.
--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com
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On Thu, 5 Jul 2018 17:07:51 wrote:

Any suggestions?


cats paw









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On Sunday, July 8, 2018 at 1:05:34 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
On Thu, 5 Jul 2018 17:07:51 wrote:

Any suggestions?


cats paw


my cat is using her paw right now

will not let me borrow it

..

..
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On Sunday, July 8, 2018 at 10:32:23 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/6/2018 6:26 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, July 6, 2018 at 12:49:38 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/5/2018 7:07 PM, Michael wrote:
I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not enough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

I have found that an impact river will remove stripped head Phillips screws.


Sometimes. And sometimes the screw wins.

https://i.imgur.com/zU0PYrP.jpg

I just did that about an hour ago trying to remove those damn rotor screws
that Honda uses.

The drill was much faster. ;-)



The subject was about removing wood screws, not mechanical machine
thread screws. You need impact rated bits for that application.


You mean like that broken bit which came with the impact driver?
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On 7/8/2018 12:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, July 8, 2018 at 10:32:23 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/6/2018 6:26 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, July 6, 2018 at 12:49:38 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/5/2018 7:07 PM, Michael wrote:
I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not enough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

I have found that an impact river will remove stripped head Phillips screws.

Sometimes. And sometimes the screw wins.

https://i.imgur.com/zU0PYrP.jpg

I just did that about an hour ago trying to remove those damn rotor screws
that Honda uses.

The drill was much faster. ;-)



The subject was about removing wood screws, not mechanical machine
thread screws. You need impact rated bits for that application.


You mean like that broken bit which came with the impact driver?


No, like the ones in the stores specifically rated for impact duty.


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On 7/8/2018 9:50 AM, Jack wrote:
On 7/6/2018 12:49 PM, Leon wrote:

I have found that an impact river will remove stripped head Phillips
screws.


Long ago when I was a kid, and was rebuilding engines, doing body work
on rusted out hulks, I had an impact driver that never failed to get out
screws, and never stripped the head if used before the head was
stripped, and generally worked if the had was stripped. A few years back
I DAGS for one of these and couldn't find one hit.Â* Today, I found them
all over the place.Â* The one I used 60 years ago was super quality,
can't vouch for this one, but it should be in everyone's tool box.

https://tinyurl.com/yb5bdxqh

For those that don't know, you smack the tool with a big hammer and it
turns the screw just a tad. Works like a charm on stuck screws with no
damage.



I have one of those floating around, great for removing screw driver
head screws.
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On Sunday, July 8, 2018 at 4:30:20 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/8/2018 12:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, July 8, 2018 at 10:32:23 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/6/2018 6:26 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, July 6, 2018 at 12:49:38 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/5/2018 7:07 PM, Michael wrote:
I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not enough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

I have found that an impact river will remove stripped head Phillips screws.

Sometimes. And sometimes the screw wins.

https://i.imgur.com/zU0PYrP.jpg

I just did that about an hour ago trying to remove those damn rotor screws
that Honda uses.

The drill was much faster. ;-)



The subject was about removing wood screws, not mechanical machine
thread screws. You need impact rated bits for that application.


You mean like that broken bit which came with the impact driver?


No, like the ones in the stores specifically rated for impact duty.


Well, we've probably reach the "splitting of hairs" point in this discussion,
but that's OK. ;-)

All the bits that came with my impact driver begin with the letters CRV,
as in Chrome Vanadium.

While more brittle than Chrome Molybdenum (and also cheaper) CR-V is
technically "rated" for impact duty, just maybe not the best choice.

Since I now need to replace the #3 PH bit, I'll be looking for some CR-MO
bits so as to avoid the (earth) shattering experience of yesterday ;-)
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On 7/8/2018 6:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, July 8, 2018 at 4:30:20 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/8/2018 12:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, July 8, 2018 at 10:32:23 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/6/2018 6:26 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, July 6, 2018 at 12:49:38 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/5/2018 7:07 PM, Michael wrote:
I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not enough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

I have found that an impact river will remove stripped head Phillips screws.

Sometimes. And sometimes the screw wins.

https://i.imgur.com/zU0PYrP.jpg

I just did that about an hour ago trying to remove those damn rotor screws
that Honda uses.

The drill was much faster. ;-)



The subject was about removing wood screws, not mechanical machine
thread screws. You need impact rated bits for that application.

You mean like that broken bit which came with the impact driver?


No, like the ones in the stores specifically rated for impact duty.


Well, we've probably reach the "splitting of hairs" point in this discussion,
but that's OK. ;-)

All the bits that came with my impact driver begin with the letters CRV,
as in Chrome Vanadium.

While more brittle than Chrome Molybdenum (and also cheaper) CR-V is
technically "rated" for impact duty, just maybe not the best choice.

Since I now need to replace the #3 PH bit, I'll be looking for some CR-MO
bits so as to avoid the (earth) shattering experience of yesterday ;-)


Often the bits, blades, etc. that come with a tool are not the ones you
would want to use. ;~(
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DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, July 6, 2018 at 12:49:38 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/5/2018 7:07 PM, Michael wrote:
I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed
in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with
small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in
tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill
driver, no problem. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill
driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it,
I'll strip it, and there's not enough room anyway. They are in there
really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough
pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

I have found that an impact river will remove stripped head Phillips screws.


Sometimes. And sometimes the screw wins.

https://i.imgur.com/zU0PYrP.jpg

I just did that about an hour ago trying to remove those damn rotor screws
that Honda uses.

The drill was much faster. ;-)




The subject was about removing stripped screws in wood.

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Default Help: Phillips screw 1/2 inch from the wall

On Wednesday, July 11, 2018 at 8:05:41 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, July 6, 2018 at 12:49:38 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/5/2018 7:07 PM, Michael wrote:
I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed
in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with
small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in
tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill
driver, no problem. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill
driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it,
I'll strip it, and there's not enough room anyway. They are in there
really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough
pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

I have found that an impact river will remove stripped head Phillips screws.


Sometimes. And sometimes the screw wins.

https://i.imgur.com/zU0PYrP.jpg

I just did that about an hour ago trying to remove those damn rotor screws
that Honda uses.

The drill was much faster. ;-)




The subject was about removing stripped screws in wood.


As Yogi once said "It's deja vu all over again." ;-)

Didn't you say the same thing on July 8th?

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