Hey everyone,

I'm working on a cabinet drawer for a spice cabinet box. I have planned on placing the sides on the inside of the front and back of the box and using pocket holes for the joinery. As I thought about it more, I have considered using a dado joint to insert the bottom of the box (to help ensure it is inserted level), but only cutting out the groove on the front and back of the box.

I'm sure there are questions abound (why aren't you dadoing the sides and front and back, why are you dadoing and pocket holing, why are the sides on the inside of the front and back and not on the outside) - but basically I want to know if there is any value (or any issue) with my intended set-up. I'm a novice - so learning more is always helpful. Thanks in advance!

On Thursday, June 21, 2018 at 9:13:40 PM UTC-5, Robbie Brusso wrote:
Hey everyone,

I'm working on a cabinet drawer for a spice cabinet box. I have planned on placing the sides on the inside of the front and back of the box and using pocket holes for the joinery. As I thought about it more, I have considered using a dado joint to insert the bottom of the box (to help ensure it is inserted level), but only cutting out the groove on the front and back of the box.

I'm sure there are questions abound (why aren't you dadoing the sides and front and back, why are you dadoing and pocket holing, why are the sides on the inside of the front and back and not on the outside) - but basically I want to know if there is any value (or any issue) with my intended set-up.. I'm a novice - so learning more is always helpful. Thanks in advance!

One very good reason not to do what you are thinking about is the minor issue of your bottom getting a warp or bend and ceasing to fit properly, or (worst case scenario) falling out.

On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
....

Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before
the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four
side.
....

While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the
traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the
width of the depth of the drawer. The drawer can then be assembled and
the bottom inserted later.

--

On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before
the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four
side.
...

While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the
traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the
width of the depth of the drawer. The drawer can then be assembled and
the bottom inserted later.

The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff
falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find.

On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before
the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four
side.
...

While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the
traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the
width of the depth of the drawer. The drawer can then be assembled and
the bottom inserted later.

The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff
falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find.

Well, no!

The back edge of the bottom is pinned (where's Norm's brad gun? )
which keeps it in place but is removable for repair if needed...with the
advent of plywood instead of solid bottom stock isn't as big an issue,
granted...

--

On 6/23/18 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before
the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four
side.
...

While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the
traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the
width of the depth of the drawer. The drawer can then be assembled and
the bottom inserted later.

The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff
falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find.


I've seen drawers constructed that way and they usually have brads in
that section to hold the drawer bottom tight against the back or some
sort of metal bracket.

Most drawers like that use flimsy 1/8-3/16" hardboard for the bottoms
and they sag in the middle of the drawer, anyway. Regardless of how far
around the drawer the slots are cut, a thin bottom is a design flaw in
my book.

I like the idea of being able to install the bottom before or after
assembly.
A properly build drawer has a bottom that is stiff enough to only need
side support-- anything else is belt & suspenders.



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 12:19:38 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before
the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four
side.
...

While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the
traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the
width of the depth of the drawer. The drawer can then be assembled and
the bottom inserted later.

The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff
falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find.

Well, no!

The back edge of the bottom is pinned (where's Norm's brad gun? )
which keeps it in place but is removable for repair if needed...with the
advent of plywood instead of solid bottom stock isn't as big an issue,
granted...

That's the theory. I've had too many drawer bottoms sag at the back
to ever be comfortable with that concept.

On 6/23/2018 2:04 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 12:19:38 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before
the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four
side.
...

While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the
traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the
width of the depth of the drawer. The drawer can then be assembled and
the bottom inserted later.

The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff
falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find.

Well, no!

The back edge of the bottom is pinned (where's Norm's brad gun? )
which keeps it in place but is removable for repair if needed...with the
advent of plywood instead of solid bottom stock isn't as big an issue,
granted...

That's the theory. I've had too many drawer bottoms sag at the back
to ever be comfortable with that concept.

They're overloaded, then...the bottom needs to be sufficient to support
the load in any drawer, no matter how it's constructed.

--

On 6/23/2018 12:21 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 6/23/18 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in
before
the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on
all four
side.
...

While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the
traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the
width of the depth of the drawer.Â* The drawer can then be assembled and
the bottom inserted later.

The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff
falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find.


I've seen drawers constructed that way and they usually have brads in
that section to hold the drawer bottom tight against the back or some
sort of metal bracket.

Most drawers like that use flimsy 1/8-3/16" hardboard for the bottoms
and they sag in the middle of the drawer, anyway.Â* Regardless of how far
around the drawer the slots are cut, a thin bottom is a design flaw in
my book.

I like the idea of being able to install the bottom before or after
assembly.
A properly build drawer has a bottom that is stiff enough to only need
side support-- anything else is belt & suspenders.

+1

Drawers were built this way long preceding the invention of the various
engineered materials; it's only the more recent advent and with the
penchant of commercial cabinets in particular being design to be as
cheap as possible to build and cover up the shortcomings with flash o
the surface that became such a problem.

I virtually always still use solid bottom panels excepting for the most
utilitarian and even then would never go under 1/4" ply for single-wide.

--

On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, dpb wrote:
On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before
the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all
four
side.
...

While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the
traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the
width of the depth of the drawer.Â* The drawer can then be assembled and the
bottom inserted later.

--

Tradition schmadition. Unless you are trying to exactly duplicate some
antique piece you should use the best available method and material. I
routinely use bottoms that are 1/2" thick solid material, beveled on the
bottom surface, and fitted into 1/4" dadoes which are cut into all four
sides of the drawer. Sure, I can't easily pop it out for repair, an
acceptable thing in my mind, since a 1/2" solid bottoms aren't likely to
sag or fail while a bottom tacked into place depends entirely on the
fasteners which may pull out or split the stock. If a replacement was
actually needed in the future then a simple cut across the bottom of the
rear would allow the loose bottom to be slid out.

Oh, and I also use dovetails all the way round -- blind in the front and
through at the rear.

On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 14:47:25 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/23/2018 2:04 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 12:19:38 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before
the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four
side.
...

While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the
traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the
width of the depth of the drawer. The drawer can then be assembled and
the bottom inserted later.

The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff
falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find.

Well, no!

The back edge of the bottom is pinned (where's Norm's brad gun? )
which keeps it in place but is removable for repair if needed...with the
advent of plywood instead of solid bottom stock isn't as big an issue,
granted...

That's the theory. I've had too many drawer bottoms sag at the back
to ever be comfortable with that concept.

They're overloaded, then...the bottom needs to be sufficient to support
the load in any drawer, no matter how it's constructed.

They don't come with a capacity marked on them, so saying that they're
"overloaded" when they're full of typical household oddments is a bit
disingenuous.

On 6/23/2018 4:43 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
....

They don't come with a capacity marked on them, so saying that they're
"overloaded" when they're full of typical household oddments is a bit
disingenuous.

If the bottom sags, they're overloaded!

Now, that they may have been underdesigned so they only will support a
minimal amount of "stuff" far under the physical size is something else
entirely and pretty much the norm for recent commercial cabinetry...

--

On 6/23/2018 3:02 PM, John McGaw wrote:
On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, dpb wrote:
On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in
before
the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on
all four
side.
...

While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the
traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back
the width of the depth of the drawer.Â* The drawer can then be
assembled and the bottom inserted later.

--

Tradition schmadition. Unless you are trying toÂ* exactly duplicate some
antique piece you should use the best available method and material. I
routinely use bottoms that are 1/2" thick solid material, beveled on the
bottom surface, and fitted into 1/4" dadoes which are cut into all four
sides of the drawer. Sure, I can't easily pop it out for repair, an
acceptableÂ* thing in my mind, since a 1/2" solid bottoms aren't likely
to sag or fail while a bottom tacked into place depends entirely on the
fasteners which may pull out or split the stock. If a replacement was
actually needed in the future then a simple cut across the bottom of the
rear would allow the loose bottom to be slid out.
....

Which is ok provided you leave sufficient expansion room in the
grooves...with just a pin is the bottom can move enough sufficiently...

If you prefer that, fine, with the half-inch bottom it's not needed
unless it's a very wide drawer and I personally prefer then to only do
front/sides...

ymmv, $0.02, etc., etc., etc, ...

--


--

On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 17:27:16 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/23/2018 4:43 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
...

They don't come with a capacity marked on them, so saying that they're
"overloaded" when they're full of typical household oddments is a bit
disingenuous.

If the bottom sags, they're overloaded!

Beat me to it!

Now, that they may have been underdesigned so they only will support a
minimal amount of "stuff" far under the physical size is something else
entirely and pretty much the norm for recent commercial cabinetry...

The problem is that one of the fundamental laws of the universe is
that "stuff" will accumulate to fit the space given. Weight isn't
often of concern.

On Saturday, June 23, 2018 at 10:52:03 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 17:27:16 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/23/2018 4:43 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
...

They don't come with a capacity marked on them, so saying that they're
"overloaded" when they're full of typical household oddments is a bit
disingenuous.

If the bottom sags, they're overloaded!

Beat me to it!

Now, that they may have been underdesigned so they only will support a
minimal amount of "stuff" far under the physical size is something else
entirely and pretty much the norm for recent commercial cabinetry...

The problem is that one of the fundamental laws of the universe is
that "stuff" will accumulate to fit the space given. Weight isn't
often of concern.

Well, eventually it is.

On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 19:57:45 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, June 23, 2018 at 10:52:03 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 17:27:16 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/23/2018 4:43 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
...

They don't come with a capacity marked on them, so saying that they're
"overloaded" when they're full of typical household oddments is a bit
disingenuous.

If the bottom sags, they're overloaded!

Beat me to it!

Now, that they may have been underdesigned so they only will support a
minimal amount of "stuff" far under the physical size is something else
entirely and pretty much the norm for recent commercial cabinetry...

The problem is that one of the fundamental laws of the universe is
that "stuff" will accumulate to fit the space given. Weight isn't
often of concern.

Well, eventually it is.

Nah, it's the damned drawer's fault.

On Thu, 21 Jun 2018 19:13:36 wrote:

with my intended set-up. I'm a novice - so learning more is always
helpful. Thanks in advance!

make some prototypes and if you get lucky they will be usable

sounds like you are trying to do it only one time and avoid any mistakes

how much scrutiny will final product get

Sorry for the long delay everyone. I failed to mention a key point: I'd still brad or screw in the bottom along the sides. If not, as many of you have pointed out, the bottom would sag (especially when the depth is 17.5 inches).

I suppose dadoing along the entire box might make assembly easier. My only issue was that I've never done a dado before so I wanted to take a minimalist approach. But I guess if I'm able to do the front and back properly, I should be able to do the sides. I'm using a router table so it should be fairly straight forward.

And this is for my own kitchen - but my wife is an attentive customer haha.

On 6/25/18 6:53 AM, Robbie Brusso wrote:
Sorry for the long delay everyone. I failed to mention a key point: I'd still brad or screw in the bottom along the sides. If not, as many of you have pointed out, the bottom would sag (especially when the depth is 17.5 inches).

I suppose dadoing along the entire box might make assembly easier. My only issue was that I've never done a dado before so I wanted to take a minimalist approach. But I guess if I'm able to do the front and back properly, I should be able to do the sides. I'm using a router table so it should be fairly straight forward.

And this is for my own kitchen - but my wife is an attentive customer haha.


A couple things.
All this talk about sag is a non-issue. You make the bottom strong
enough for the intended purpose, period. 1/4" cabinet grade plywood is
usually strong enough for smaller drawers, but you might want to go 3/8"
which you'll find as 9mm or even 1/2" which you'll find as 12mm in
cabinet grade plywood.

You don't have to cut the dado the full thickness of the plywood. You
can rabbet the edge of the plywood to match the dado. 1/4" is a common
size for that.

About that dado... I would cut a slot to receive the drawer bottom on
the sides before I would do it on the front/back. That is, if I had to
choose on or the other. The point is, you don't.

Since you're likely using the same plywood for the sides and back of the
drawer, it's easier to cut the dado in the plywood before you cut it
into the separate pieces. Heck, most cabinet drawers are done with all
four sides in plywood, with a separate face anyway, so you can cut all 4
dados as one on the plywood before cutting out the sides.

In other words it's easier to cut dados in all sections of the drawer
than it is to cut it in only two.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Mon, 25 Jun 2018 04:53:55 wrote:

And this is for my own kitchen - but my wife is an attentive customer
haha.

usually there are no complaints unless it fails somehow

if your first prototype works then congrats
if not maybe it can be reworked and become prototype two

and so on

perfect should not get in the way of good enough


but if it is meant to become an heirloom then maybe you spend more
time

On 6/23/2018 2:04 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 12:19:38 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before
the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four
side.
...

While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the
traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the
width of the depth of the drawer. The drawer can then be assembled and
the bottom inserted later.

The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff
falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find.

Well, no!

The back edge of the bottom is pinned (where's Norm's brad gun? )
which keeps it in place but is removable for repair if needed...with the
advent of plywood instead of solid bottom stock isn't as big an issue,
granted...

That's the theory. I've had too many drawer bottoms sag at the back
to ever be comfortable with that concept.

Then simply put in screws, pocket hole screws work well.

On Monday, June 25, 2018 at 7:53:59 AM UTC-4, Robbie Brusso wrote:
Sorry for the long delay everyone. I failed to mention a key point: I'd still brad or screw in the bottom along the sides. If not, as many of you have pointed out, the bottom would sag (especially when the depth is 17.5 inches).

I suppose dadoing along the entire box might make assembly easier. My only issue was that I've never done a dado before so I wanted to take a minimalist approach. But I guess if I'm able to do the front and back properly, I should be able to do the sides. I'm using a router table so it should be fairly straight forward.

And this is for my own kitchen - but my wife is an attentive customer haha.

Once you set up the router to do the front and back dado's, it's nothing
more than 2 more passes to dado the sides. The set-up is the work, the dado's
are the fun part. ;-)

Any reason you are not using a table saw for the dado's?

On Saturday, June 23, 2018 at 10:12:08 AM UTC-5, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid in before
the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported on all four
side.
...

While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the
traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the back the
width of the depth of the drawer. The drawer can then be assembled and
the bottom inserted later.

The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff
falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find.

Yes, I don't know how far the dado is from the bottom? 1/8 or so? You could glue a thin support cleat, maybe. Just a thought.

On 6/25/18 6:00 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/23/2018 2:04 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 12:19:38 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid
in before
the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported
on all four
side.
...

While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the
traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the
back the
width of the depth of the drawer.Â* The drawer can then be assembled
and
the bottom inserted later.

The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff
falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find.

Well, no!Â*

The back edge of the bottom is pinned (where's Norm's brad gun? )
which keeps it in place but is removable for repair if needed...with the
advent of plywood instead of solid bottom stock isn't as big an issue,
granted...

That's the theory.Â* I've had too many drawer bottoms sag at the back
to ever be comfortable with that concept.

Then simply put in screws, pocket hole screws work well.

Or just dado all the sides/back at one time.
I don't know why people in here constantly try to reinvent the wheel.
Not only reinvent it, but go back in time and make wooden-spoke carriage
wheels. :-)

It's so easy to dado the all the sides/back/front as one piece, then cut
to leangth.
Heck, they even sell them already slotted and pre-finished....
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/p...e-60-x-4-stock


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Tuesday, June 26, 2018 at 12:42:10 AM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
On 6/25/18 6:00 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/23/2018 2:04 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 12:19:38 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid
in before
the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported
on all four
side.
...

While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the
traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the
back the
width of the depth of the drawer.Â* The drawer can then be assembled
and
the bottom inserted later.

The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff
falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find.

Well, no!Â*

The back edge of the bottom is pinned (where's Norm's brad gun? )
which keeps it in place but is removable for repair if needed...with the
advent of plywood instead of solid bottom stock isn't as big an issue,
granted...

That's the theory.Â* I've had too many drawer bottoms sag at the back
to ever be comfortable with that concept.

Then simply put in screws, pocket hole screws work well.

Or just dado all the sides/back at one time.
I don't know why people in here constantly try to reinvent the wheel.
Not only reinvent it, but go back in time and make wooden-spoke carriage
wheels. :-)

It's so easy to dado the all the sides/back/front as one piece, then cut
to leangth.
Heck, they even sell them already slotted and pre-finished....
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/p...e-60-x-4-stock

Sometimes it's a matter of necessity/limitations. I have a very small shop. It's actually
(sometimes) easier to dado 4 smaller pieces than 1 long one.

The OP mentioned using a router table. We don't know if it's a bench top, a standalone,
or a table saw extension. If it's a bench top (possible since this a "early project" for the OP)
small pieces are probably going to be easier to handle.

As skills and equipment progress, techniques will also.

On 6/25/2018 7:53 AM, Robbie Brusso wrote:
Sorry for the long delay everyone. I failed to mention a key point: I'd still brad or screw in the bottom along the sides. If not, as many
of you have pointed out, the bottom would sag (especially when the depth
is 17.5 inches).

I suppose dadoing along the entire box might make assembly easier.

Yes, that will become obvious after you build your first drawer. Also,
you will find cutting the back off to screw/nail the drawer bottom for
later removal is not only more work, but a waste of time as it will
never be needed on a correctly built drawer. Even if it would be
needed, which it won't, you can cut the back then to remove the bottom.

My only issue was that I've never done a dado before so I wanted to take a
minimalist approach. But I guess if I'm able to do the front and back
properly, I should be able to do the sides. I'm using a router table so it
should be fairly straight forward.

Yes. Forget minimalist approach, do it right the first try, minimalist
approaches almost always end up as a "maximist" approaches.

And this is for my own kitchen - but my wife is an attentive customer haha.

Stuff you build for yourself always demands maximum attention as _you_
will be living with all your mistakes, as well as your perfection.
Perfection is easy to live with, so avoid minimalist approaches until
you have maximum experience and KNOW where cutting a corner 'might' work.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

On 6/25/2018 11:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 6/25/18 6:00 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/23/2018 2:04 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 12:19:38 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/23/2018 10:12 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 09:12:53 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/21/2018 10:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

Typically a dado is cut in all four pieces and the bottom is slid
in before
the back (or front) is attached. That way the bottom is supported
on all four
side.
...

While a lot of folks do so, it's not the best option or the
traditional--which is to dado the front and sides and leave the
back the
width of the depth of the drawer.Â* The drawer can then be
assembled and
the bottom inserted later.

The downside on which is that the bottom sags at the back and stuff
falls out behind the drawers where it's a pain in the butt to find.

Well, no!Â*

The back edge of the bottom is pinned (where's Norm's brad gun? )
which keeps it in place but is removable for repair if needed...with
the
advent of plywood instead of solid bottom stock isn't as big an issue,
granted...

That's the theory.Â* I've had too many drawer bottoms sag at the back
to ever be comfortable with that concept.

Then simply put in screws, pocket hole screws work well.

Or just dado all the sides/back at one time.
I don't know why people in here constantly try to reinvent the wheel.
Not only reinvent it, but go back in time and make wooden-spoke carriage
wheels.Â*Â* :-)

I cut grooves on all 4 sides on all of my drawers. Out of the 2~4
hundred drawers that I have built this way none have had to be repaired.

Electric Comet on Mon, 25 Jun 2018
10:54:25 -0700 typed in rec.woodworking the following:
On Mon, 25 Jun 2018 04:53:55 wrote:

And this is for my own kitchen - but my wife is an attentive customer
haha.

usually there are no complaints unless it fails somehow

if your first prototype works then congrats
if not maybe it can be reworked and become prototype two

and so on

perfect should not get in the way of good enough

"Good enough now" will beat "perfect, tomorrow" for many things.

Recently I realized that much of what I make has no finish,
because I wanted a thing now, not beautiful.
--
pyotr filipivich
Next month's Panel: Graft - Boon or blessing?

On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 09:00:10 -0700
pyotr filipivich wrote:

"Good enough now" will beat "perfect, tomorrow" for many
things.

Recently I realized that much of what I make has no finish,
because I wanted a thing now, not beautiful.


recently replaced a dangerous thin hollow metal broom handle and just
did a light sand on it and put it back to use


hand oils will work fine on this one

On Saturday, June 30, 2018 at 1:58:33 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 09:00:10 -0700
pyotr filipivich wrote:

"Good enough now" will beat "perfect, tomorrow" for many
things.

Recently I realized that much of what I make has no finish,
because I wanted a thing now, not beautiful.


recently replaced a dangerous thin hollow metal broom handle and just
did a light sand on it and put it back to use

Very informative post. Replaced it with what?




hand oils will work fine on this one

On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 13:02:29 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, June 30, 2018 at 1:58:33 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 09:00:10 -0700
pyotr filipivich wrote:

"Good enough now" will beat "perfect, tomorrow" for many
things.

Recently I realized that much of what I make has no finish,
because I wanted a thing now, not beautiful.


recently replaced a dangerous thin hollow metal broom handle and just
did a light sand on it and put it back to use

Very informative post. Replaced it with what?

Left over periods.

On Saturday, June 30, 2018 at 7:49:03 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 13:02:29 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, June 30, 2018 at 1:58:33 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 09:00:10 -0700
pyotr filipivich wrote:

"Good enough now" will beat "perfect, tomorrow" for many
things.

Recently I realized that much of what I make has no finish,
because I wanted a thing now, not beautiful.


recently replaced a dangerous thin hollow metal broom handle and just
did a light sand on it and put it back to use

Very informative post. Replaced it with what?

Left over periods.

What grit do you use to sand a period?

On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 17:49:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, June 30, 2018 at 7:49:03 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 13:02:29 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, June 30, 2018 at 1:58:33 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 09:00:10 -0700
pyotr filipivich wrote:

"Good enough now" will beat "perfect, tomorrow" for many
things.

Recently I realized that much of what I make has no finish,
because I wanted a thing now, not beautiful.


recently replaced a dangerous thin hollow metal broom handle and just
did a light sand on it and put it back to use

Very informative post. Replaced it with what?

Left over periods.

What grit do you use to sand a period?

Light, evidently.