I've just applied a second coat of Minwax Golden Oak stain on new red
oak, and I'm delighted with the results. In order to protect the finish,
does the assembled wisdom suggest a rub down with something like paste
wax, or should I go to a polyurethane coating? The piece is an entry
table, my major project in my 3rd year apprentice program, and the top is
a cast concrete slab with a line drawing of a carpenter's arms running a
plane. My tastes, I freely confess, run to the classic, old fashioned,
and some might say antiquated. The wax would be closer to my taste, but
perhaps the poly is better.

Cheers, and advTHANKSance
Colin

On Sun, 6 May 2018 04:37:09 -0000 (UTC), Colin Campbell
wrote:

I've just applied a second coat of Minwax Golden Oak stain on new red
oak, and I'm delighted with the results. In order to protect the finish,
does the assembled wisdom suggest a rub down with something like paste
wax, or should I go to a polyurethane coating? The piece is an entry
table, my major project in my 3rd year apprentice program, and the top is
a cast concrete slab with a line drawing of a carpenter's arms running a
plane. My tastes, I freely confess, run to the classic, old fashioned,
and some might say antiquated. The wax would be closer to my taste, but
perhaps the poly is better.

Cheers, and advTHANKSance
Colin


Who is going to own it ?
.. someone who knows & appreciates the difference
between wax and poly ?
if yes - wax
if no poly
John T.

"Colin Campbell" wrote in message
news
I've just applied a second coat of Minwax Golden Oak stain on new red
oak, and I'm delighted with the results. In order to protect the finish,
does the assembled wisdom suggest a rub down with something like paste
wax, or should I go to a polyurethane coating? The piece is an entry
table, my major project in my 3rd year apprentice program, and the top is
a cast concrete slab with a line drawing of a carpenter's arms running a
plane. My tastes, I freely confess, run to the classic, old fashioned,
and some might say antiquated. The wax would be closer to my taste, but
perhaps the poly is better.

Either. The poly has protection against scratches, wax doesn't but hall
tables - especially with concrete tops - aren't usually to brutal treatment.

On Saturday, May 5, 2018 at 11:37:12 PM UTC-5, Colin Campbell wrote:
I've just applied a second coat of Minwax Golden Oak stain on new red
oak, and I'm delighted with the results. In order to protect the finish,
does the assembled wisdom suggest a rub down with something like paste
wax, or should I go to a polyurethane coating? The piece is an entry
table, my major project in my 3rd year apprentice program, and the top is
a cast concrete slab with a line drawing of a carpenter's arms running a
plane. My tastes, I freely confess, run to the classic, old fashioned,
and some might say antiquated. The wax would be closer to my taste, but
perhaps the poly is better.

Cheers, and advTHANKSance
Colin

On a project like this, which is to put you and your skills on display, follow your gut. Also, always consider the likelihood of wear on the surface. The top is always takes the most wear, but that slab is not going to have a problem. Assuming you seal it somehow, water stains, etc will just not be a worry. The case and legs, especially the legs, will get the occasional bump or scratch, but a quick rewax and you are good to go,

On Sunday, May 6, 2018 at 7:54:16 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
The case and legs, especially the legs, will get the occasional bump or scratch, but a quick rewax and you are good to go,

I vote wax, also.

Additionally (blather?):
Another option, for temporarily repairing leg/case scratches and dings, is to use a wax crayon. "Color" over the scratch/ding, with an appropriate color, rub to create heat. If you ever need to refinish, the wax is easily removed using the remover.

Several fairly good paste waxes, out there, as long as they don't contain too much oil, if any, or if they don't contain silicone. I often use Pate' Dugay.... kinna expensive, in various colors, but a can lasts a long long time. It doesn't take much to wax a piece, so a can will last very long time. Might not be worth the expense, if not used often enough. I do part-time upholstery; I fairly often wax/polish the woodwork of a piece, with Pate' Dugay, before the reupholstering.

I used Tre-Wax on raw ER cedar wood display cabinet/open shelf unit, 35-40 yrs ago. reapplied 15-20 yrs ago. Still nice and smooth, looks nice, easy to dust, no color fading (that I'm aware of).

Sonny

On Sunday, May 6, 2018 at 10:40:32 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
On Sunday, May 6, 2018 at 7:54:16 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
The case and legs, especially the legs, will get the occasional bump or scratch, but a quick rewax and you are good to go,

I vote wax, also.

Additionally (blather?):
Another option, for temporarily repairing leg/case scratches and dings, is to use a wax crayon. "Color" over the scratch/ding, with an appropriate color, rub to create heat. If you ever need to refinish, the wax is easily removed using the remover.

Several fairly good paste waxes, out there, as long as they don't contain too much oil, if any, or if they don't contain silicone. I often use Pate' Dugay.... kinna expensive, in various colors, but a can lasts a long long time. It doesn't take much to wax a piece, so a can will last very long time. Might not be worth the expense, if not used often enough. I do part-time upholstery; I fairly often wax/polish the woodwork of a piece, with Pate' Dugay, before the reupholstering.

I used Tre-Wax on raw ER cedar wood display cabinet/open shelf unit, 35-40 yrs ago. reapplied 15-20 yrs ago. Still nice and smooth, looks nice, easy to dust, no color fading (that I'm aware of).

Sonny

"no color fading (that I'm aware of)"

I believe it was Jack that made the same claim about a something he
made/bought/not_sure many years ago. When somebody pushed back, he managed
to find a spot that was hidden from the light all those years. He came back
and humbly expressed his amazement at how much it had actually faded. Living
with a piece day in and day out without something "new" to compare it to,
you'll never notice the slow change.

AS an example...

SWMBO and I went to a John McCutcheon concert a few weeks. As people took
their seats, I leaned over to SWMBO and whispered "There's a lot of old
people here". She just laughed. ;-)

SWMBO and I went to a John McCutcheon concert.
a few weeks ago. As people took their seats,
I leaned over to SWMBO and whispered
"There's a lot of old people here". She just laughed. ;-)


My stock line - when I see a 20 or 30 - something
in the audience - " Who let them in ? "
.... thoroughly enjoyed Shari Ulrich Trio last night ..
http://www.shariulrich.com/
John T.

On 5/5/2018 11:37 PM, Colin Campbell wrote:
I've just applied a second coat of Minwax Golden Oak stain on new red
oak, and I'm delighted with the results. In order to protect the finish,
does the assembled wisdom suggest a rub down with something like paste
wax, or should I go to a polyurethane coating? The piece is an entry
table, my major project in my 3rd year apprentice program, and the top is
a cast concrete slab with a line drawing of a carpenter's arms running a
plane. My tastes, I freely confess, run to the classic, old fashioned,
and some might say antiquated. The wax would be closer to my taste, but
perhaps the poly is better.

Cheers, and advTHANKSance
Colin


Just stain or Minwax Polyshades? If the later, do nothing. If stain,
wax will only add some shine but no protection.

Or use something like Old Masters gel varnish. It goes on very thin but
adds more protection than wax. You will need about 3 coats. Wipe on
and immediately wipe off and with a second cloth buff, IMMEDIATELY.
Repeat above 2~3 more times.

Hi Colin one of my fav. go to Old chool finishes is Beeswax.
Get a block of Beeswax at a True Value store, Woodworkers Warehouse or wherever you can find it . Test it with your fingernail the harder the better ..
Use an old metal food grater to flake it. You may want to save it for this exclusive purpose and buy a newer one for the kitchen. Then get an old saucepan or pot you will forever use for this purpose and put in the beeswax flakes. Next get a larger saucepan or pot, that the smaller pan will comfortably fit into with space around for water.
Put the wax saucepan into the larger one and add enough water in until the smaller one just starts to Float. now you have a double boiler.
Make sure You have a good cover that will fit the wax saucepan or pot.
Next add a small amount of turpentine into the pan with the wax flakes.
Some folks substitute Mineral oil instead. This is also good but not as hard of a finish and is more sticky. However Bees Wax & Mineral Oil is a great food grade combo for cutting boards, children's toys and Butcher Blocks.
Back to the turpentine Mix or mineral oil heating process.
Turn up the heat to low preferably electric burner under the double boiler
Don't walk away too far because You want to avoid Burning or flash point, ignition. Stir with an old spoon or I prefer a wooden paint stirrer, Keep mixing until its one consistency, Keep the cover handy especially with gas stoves to quickly snuff out any flame if it catches. This has never happened to me but it can. I hear if most of the water has boiled away and the temperature rises to the flashpoint. So make sure you add water to the water pan carefully and not into the wax ,because the wax will explode on you. You do not run out of water then your temperature will not get any higher than 212 deg F. Probably the safest place for this is outside on a barbeque grill rather than the kitchen range. I have a cheap electric hotplate in my shop for it.
O.k. when this stuff is pourable pour it into a good water tight tin of appropriate size for the volume of your batch. Don't get any of this hot stuff on your skin, or you will surely blister it with 1st. or 2nd. degree burns..
Option 1 Let it cool it will become the consistency of butchers wax.
Option 2 leave it in the hot pot and while it is liquid brush the stuff on your wood project Be cautious to protect your skin and eyes in case of a splash. This hot process penetrates The wood fibers better than the cold process. With either process be sure to wipe off any excess after a few minutes. let dry and rub it out.
This is a repairable finish although it will not remove a deep scratch if you get one an application of the same mix on the scratch will blend it in like it was there before the finish.
I know this has been a long drawn out instruction but do not ignore the safety aspects. You will have a nice alternative finish at Your disposal.
Also realize Minwax oil and other stains have Tung oil and petroleum solvents which are poison so don't use it in conjunction with the food grade or toy projects.

Have fun finishing Old school
Rick B.

On 5/6/2018 3:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, May 6, 2018 at 10:40:32 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
On Sunday, May 6, 2018 at 7:54:16 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
The case and legs, especially the legs, will get the occasional bump or scratch, but a quick rewax and you are good to go,

I vote wax, also.

Additionally (blather?):
Another option, for temporarily repairing leg/case scratches and dings, is to use a wax crayon. "Color" over the scratch/ding, with an appropriate color, rub to create heat. If you ever need to refinish, the wax is easily removed using the remover.

Several fairly good paste waxes, out there, as long as they don't contain too much oil, if any, or if they don't contain silicone. I often use Pate' Dugay.... kinna expensive, in various colors, but a can lasts a long long time. It doesn't take much to wax a piece, so a can will last very long time. Might not be worth the expense, if not used often enough. I do part-time upholstery; I fairly often wax/polish the woodwork of a piece, with Pate' Dugay, before the reupholstering.

I used Tre-Wax on raw ER cedar wood display cabinet/open shelf unit, 35-40 yrs ago. reapplied 15-20 yrs ago. Still nice and smooth, looks nice, easy to dust, no color fading (that I'm aware of).

Sonny

"no color fading (that I'm aware of)"

I believe it was Jack that made the same claim about a something he
made/bought/not_sure many years ago. When somebody pushed back, he managed
to find a spot that was hidden from the light all those years. He came back
and humbly expressed his amazement at how much it had actually faded. Living
with a piece day in and day out without something "new" to compare it to,
you'll never notice the slow change.

Twas I and it was a walnut piece I'd made about 35+ years ago, and
finished with spray lacquer, no stain.

My self, since the top is cement, I would finish the rest with anything
but wax. I was never a fan of just wax, prefer shellac, lacquer,
varnish, poly, oil. In this case I probably would use several coats of
shellac since water/alcohol contact is unlikely. If I made it, I
probably would have considered a danish oil stain, particularly if you
want oak to be stained dark as in walnut. Shellac is my favorite though,
easy to spray or apply with a rag and always looks great on hardwood.

I've never done a cement top though. What would you seal that with?
Nothing? Thompsons? I dunno.
--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

On Wednesday, May 9, 2018 at 9:08:19 AM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
On 5/6/2018 3:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, May 6, 2018 at 10:40:32 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
On Sunday, May 6, 2018 at 7:54:16 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
The case and legs, especially the legs, will get the occasional bump or scratch, but a quick rewax and you are good to go,

I vote wax, also.

Additionally (blather?):
Another option, for temporarily repairing leg/case scratches and dings, is to use a wax crayon. "Color" over the scratch/ding, with an appropriate color, rub to create heat. If you ever need to refinish, the wax is easily removed using the remover.

Several fairly good paste waxes, out there, as long as they don't contain too much oil, if any, or if they don't contain silicone. I often use Pate' Dugay.... kinna expensive, in various colors, but a can lasts a long long time. It doesn't take much to wax a piece, so a can will last very long time. Might not be worth the expense, if not used often enough. I do part-time upholstery; I fairly often wax/polish the woodwork of a piece, with Pate' Dugay, before the reupholstering.

I used Tre-Wax on raw ER cedar wood display cabinet/open shelf unit, 35-40 yrs ago. reapplied 15-20 yrs ago. Still nice and smooth, looks nice, easy to dust, no color fading (that I'm aware of).

Sonny

"no color fading (that I'm aware of)"

I believe it was Jack that made the same claim about a something he
made/bought/not_sure many years ago. When somebody pushed back, he managed
to find a spot that was hidden from the light all those years. He came back
and humbly expressed his amazement at how much it had actually faded. Living
with a piece day in and day out without something "new" to compare it to,
you'll never notice the slow change.

Twas I and it was a walnut piece I'd made about 35+ years ago, and
finished with spray lacquer, no stain.

My self, since the top is cement, I would finish the rest with anything
but wax. I was never a fan of just wax, prefer shellac, lacquer,
varnish, poly, oil. In this case I probably would use several coats of
shellac since water/alcohol contact is unlikely. If I made it, I
probably would have considered a danish oil stain, particularly if you
want oak to be stained dark as in walnut. Shellac is my favorite though,
easy to spray or apply with a rag and always looks great on hardwood.

I've never done a cement top though. What would you seal that with?
Nothing? Thompsons? I dunno.
--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com


I somewhat agree with You Jack about Slellac finish I restore a lot of antiques and it's a joy to when I identify their finish is shellac
this stuff really ages well and is easily brought back to life when You are not afraid to renew the look away from shabby sheik.
I an very interested in a product I have not Yet Tried = "Shellac Flat" Which dulls shellac This would be handy on some older worn shellac finishes requiring less gloss.
SHELLAC FLAT
#7080 /SHELLAC FLAT- Flattening Agent for liquid €“ $17.95 €“ 16 OZ. BOTTLE
Homestead Finishing Products
P O Box 360275 Strongsville OH 44136-0005 Tel # 216-631-5309

Another Great Product I like is Waterlox Tung oil Varnish
https://www.waterlox.com/
I thin this stuff with Naptha water consistency and hand rub up to 20 coats.
I daily yep up to 20 days worth wet sanding 1000 grit between make sure its very dry and free from moisture between wet Sanding and rubs I make a pad like You would for French Polish for this. The finish dries Hard and is very durable like a Samurai Sword when completely cured after a couple of weeks. All good things take time. I have refinished many Antiques and Acoustic Guitars with this process.

I also love Working with Behlen Stringed Instrument nitrocelluloce Laquer.
https://www.shellac.net/instrument_lacquer_howto.html
on a newer project or replacement part to a laquer finished piece.

I will post a new Question about shellac flat if someone Has used it.
rick B.

On Wednesday, May 9, 2018 at 9:08:19 AM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
On 5/6/2018 3:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, May 6, 2018 at 10:40:32 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
On Sunday, May 6, 2018 at 7:54:16 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
The case and legs, especially the legs, will get the occasional bump or scratch, but a quick rewax and you are good to go,

I vote wax, also.

Additionally (blather?):
Another option, for temporarily repairing leg/case scratches and dings, is to use a wax crayon. "Color" over the scratch/ding, with an appropriate color, rub to create heat. If you ever need to refinish, the wax is easily removed using the remover.

Several fairly good paste waxes, out there, as long as they don't contain too much oil, if any, or if they don't contain silicone. I often use Pate' Dugay.... kinna expensive, in various colors, but a can lasts a long long time. It doesn't take much to wax a piece, so a can will last very long time. Might not be worth the expense, if not used often enough. I do part-time upholstery; I fairly often wax/polish the woodwork of a piece, with Pate' Dugay, before the reupholstering.

I used Tre-Wax on raw ER cedar wood display cabinet/open shelf unit, 35-40 yrs ago. reapplied 15-20 yrs ago. Still nice and smooth, looks nice, easy to dust, no color fading (that I'm aware of).

Sonny

"no color fading (that I'm aware of)"

I believe it was Jack that made the same claim about a something he
made/bought/not_sure many years ago. When somebody pushed back, he managed
to find a spot that was hidden from the light all those years. He came back
and humbly expressed his amazement at how much it had actually faded. Living
with a piece day in and day out without something "new" to compare it to,
you'll never notice the slow change.

Twas I and it was a walnut piece I'd made about 35+ years ago, and
finished with spray lacquer, no stain.

My self, since the top is cement, I would finish the rest with anything
but wax. I was never a fan of just wax, prefer shellac, lacquer,
varnish, poly, oil. In this case I probably would use several coats of
shellac since water/alcohol contact is unlikely. If I made it, I
probably would have considered a danish oil stain, particularly if you
want oak to be stained dark as in walnut. Shellac is my favorite though,
easy to spray or apply with a rag and always looks great on hardwood.

I've never done a cement top though. What would you seal that with?
Nothing? Thompsons? I dunno.
--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com


I somewhat agree with You Jack about Slellac finish I restore a lot of antiques and it's a joy to when I identify their finish is shellac
this stuff really ages well and is easily brought back to life when You are not afraid to renew the look away from shabby sheik.
I an very interested in a product I have not Yet Tried = "Shellac Flat" Which dulls shellac This would be handy on some older worn shellac finishes requiring less gloss.
SHELLAC FLAT
#7080 /SHELLAC FLAT- Flattening Agent for liquid €“ $17.95 €“ 16 OZ. BOTTLE
Homestead Finishing Products
P O Box 360275 Strongsville OH 44136-0005 Tel # 216-631-5309

Another Great Product I like is Waterlox Tung oil Varnish
https://www.waterlox.com/
I thin this stuff with Naptha water consistency and hand rub up to 20 coats.
I daily yep up to 20 days worth wet sanding 1000 grit between make sure its very dry and free from moisture between wet Sanding and rubs I make a pad like You would for French Polish for this. The finish dries Hard and is very durable like a Samurai Sword when completely cured after a couple of weeks. All good things take time. I have refinished many Antiques and Acoustic Guitars with this process.

I also love Working with Behlen Stringed Instrument nitrocelluloce Laquer.
https://www.shellac.net/instrument_lacquer_howto.html
on a newer project or replacement part to a laquer finished piece.

On 5/9/2018 11:00 AM, Rick the antique guy wrote:

Another Great Product I like is Waterlox Tung oil Varnish
https://www.waterlox.com/

Yes, I used this on a record cabinet I made about 40 years ago. Still
looks good to this day. Have no idea why I never used it again, as it
was easy to apply and quite durable. The record cabinet does not get
abused. Table tops I've used almost exclusively poly because it is
durable and unaffected by water/alcohol and about every thing else other
than 4 year olds with a knife carving initials. I only recently
re-discovered shellac. Never liked it because of how it water stains so
easily. I now prefer it over most everything if it's not a table top.

I thin this stuff with Naptha water consistency and hand rub up to 20 coats.
I daily yep up to 20 days worth wet sanding 1000 grit between make sure its very dry and free from moisture between wet Sanding and rubs I make a pad like You would for French Polish for this. The finish dries Hard and is very durable like a Samurai Sword when completely cured after a couple of weeks. All good things take time. I have refinished many Antiques and Acoustic Guitars with this process.

Wow, I never put that much into a finish, way too lazy.

I also love Working with Behlen Stringed Instrument nitrocelluloce Laquer.
https://www.shellac.net/instrument_lacquer_howto.html
on a newer project or replacement part to a laquer finished piece.

I will post a new Question about shellac flat if someone Has used it.
rick B.
I never used it, never heard of it actually. I sometimes have a hard
time deciding glossy or satin varnish... speaking of varnish, for
construction wood (fir/spruce used for work benches and such) I like
varnish, spar varnish. I like how it yellows, no stain. Poly doesn't
yellow much so preserves the ugly look of construction grade firs. Also,
I've used BLO a lot with clear shellac or poly overcoat for the same
reasons.

The last larger piece I've made was a dresser a couple years ago, and I
can't remember what finish I used. (it's written on the cabinet back
though). Amazing because I clearly remember what I used on that record
cabinet 40 years ago... age is funny sometimes.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

On Sun, 06 May 2018 07:40:30 -0700, Sonny wrote:

On Sunday, May 6, 2018 at 7:54:16 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
The case and legs, especially the legs, will get the occasional bump or
scratch, but a quick rewax and you are good to go,

I vote wax, also.



Thanks to all who gave advice and experience, which are both much
appreciated. I decided on a simple coat of hand-rubbed beeswax, and here
is the result:
https://photos.google.com/share/
AF1QipNq3huoQ1NHxuiqfxfTrnEEIUG2oxhT5ynxtoDK9XcXWz BvqcxY5lX3t9HqeyX34Q?
key=bVZMbWE2VXRhb1F2T25maTkzODd4RFU4RVYtOHZR

Cheers,
Colin

On Saturday, May 12, 2018 at 7:25:44 PM UTC-4, Colin Campbell wrote:
On Sun, 06 May 2018 07:40:30 -0700, Sonny wrote:

On Sunday, May 6, 2018 at 7:54:16 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
The case and legs, especially the legs, will get the occasional bump or
scratch, but a quick rewax and you are good to go,

I vote wax, also.



Thanks to all who gave advice and experience, which are both much
appreciated. I decided on a simple coat of hand-rubbed beeswax, and here
is the result:
https://photos.google.com/share/
AF1QipNq3huoQ1NHxuiqfxfTrnEEIUG2oxhT5ynxtoDK9XcXWz BvqcxY5lX3t9HqeyX34Q?
key=bVZMbWE2VXRhb1F2T25maTkzODd4RFU4RVYtOHZR

Cheers,
Colin

Hi Colin Check Your Url on this pic it will not open up.
rick b.

On Sunday, May 13, 2018 at 8:10:18 PM UTC-4, Rick the antique guy wrote:
On Saturday, May 12, 2018 at 7:25:44 PM UTC-4, Colin Campbell wrote:
On Sun, 06 May 2018 07:40:30 -0700, Sonny wrote:

On Sunday, May 6, 2018 at 7:54:16 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
The case and legs, especially the legs, will get the occasional bump or
scratch, but a quick rewax and you are good to go,

I vote wax, also.



Thanks to all who gave advice and experience, which are both much
appreciated. I decided on a simple coat of hand-rubbed beeswax, and here
is the result:
https://photos.google.com/share/
AF1QipNq3huoQ1NHxuiqfxfTrnEEIUG2oxhT5ynxtoDK9XcXWz BvqcxY5lX3t9HqeyX34Q?
key=bVZMbWE2VXRhb1F2T25maTkzODd4RFU4RVYtOHZR

Cheers,
Colin

Hi Colin Check Your Url on this pic it will not open up.
rick b.

It works, you just have to eliminate the spaces...

On Sunday, May 13, 2018 at 8:10:18 PM UTC-4, Rick the antique guy wrote:
On Saturday, May 12, 2018 at 7:25:44 PM UTC-4, Colin Campbell wrote:
On Sun, 06 May 2018 07:40:30 -0700, Sonny wrote:

On Sunday, May 6, 2018 at 7:54:16 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
The case and legs, especially the legs, will get the occasional bump or
scratch, but a quick rewax and you are good to go,

I vote wax, also.



Thanks to all who gave advice and experience, which are both much
appreciated. I decided on a simple coat of hand-rubbed beeswax, and here
is the result:
https://photos.google.com/share/
AF1QipNq3huoQ1NHxuiqfxfTrnEEIUG2oxhT5ynxtoDK9XcXWz BvqcxY5lX3t9HqeyX34Q?
key=bVZMbWE2VXRhb1F2T25maTkzODd4RFU4RVYtOHZR

Cheers,
Colin

Hi Colin Check Your Url on this pic it will not open up.
rick b.

Here's a shortened version:

https://tinyurl.com/colin-entry-table

On Sun, 13 May 2018 19:17:37 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:

rick b.

Here's a shortened version:

https://tinyurl.com/colin-entry-table

Thanks, DerbyDad! How did you do that?

Cheers,
Colin

On Monday, May 14, 2018 at 1:06:40 AM UTC-4, Colin Campbell wrote:
On Sun, 13 May 2018 19:17:37 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:

rick b.

Here's a shortened version:

https://tinyurl.com/colin-entry-table

Thanks, DerbyDad! How did you do that?

Cheers,
Colin

www.tinyurl.com

It's self explanatory once you see the site.