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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around? It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical. / \ / \ | | sanding drum \ / \ / ---------------------------------------------- | | | | | Direction of feed == | 1" tall | | | | ---------------------------------------------- 6" long Thanks guys. |
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#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On Monday, March 19, 2018 at 7:06:49 AM UTC-4, Perry wrote:
I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around? It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical. / \ / \ | | sanding drum \ / \ / ---------------------------------------------- | | | | | Direction of feed == | 1" tall | | | | ---------------------------------------------- 6" long Thanks guys. Can you make a jig with slope sides to match so that you *can* hold it a vice? |
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#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
"Perry" wrote in message ... I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around? Yes, a drum sander could do the job assuming your piece has the minimum length necessary - as specified by the manufacturer - to keep the pressure rollers properly in contact. It won't get kicked around but don't try to skinny it down in one pass. The finish depends upon the grit of the abrasive used. Drum sanders are very handy and useful but it would be an expensive way to accomplish your goal. Any reason you couldn't glue a piece of paper to the bottom with water soulble glue, glue that to a piece of ply then mill it with your milling machine. When done, soak the casting free of the paper and carrier. |
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#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
Perry wrote in
: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-...g-machines-and -accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4 080p If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around? It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical. / \ / \ | | sanding drum \ / \ / ---------------------------------------------- | | | | | Direction of feed == | 1" tall | | | | ---------------------------------------------- 6" long Thanks guys. A relatively inexpensive way to find out would be to buy a sanding drum kit for a drill press. For a test part or two, you can hold it carefully by hand or clamp the base to a piece of angle aluminum. I'm not sure how well the thickness sander will hold your part. If you had a sled of some sort, where the pieces are held in a slot on a board, you might be able to make it work. If you do need to find a better way to hold the work, let me toss out a couple ideas: Build a box around the part and cover the box and part with thin plastic like from a baggie. Fill the space with expanding foam. Now you've got custom vise jaws that'll probably hold good enough. (If you've got small parts that jut out, cover them before you put the plastic on.) Another option is to drill and tap for screws on the bottom or drop a couple screws in before pouring the epoxy. I don't have any experience with molding screws in place, I just know it's possible. Now you've got a way to mount the part to a solid base plate for machining. Puckdropper -- http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst! |
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#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 3/19/18 6:06 AM, Perry wrote:
I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. Can you grip it securely with you hands? If so you could stick sandpaper to a flat work surface, then flip it over and run the top over the sandpaper. Two or three sheets of paper or a long strip from a roll would be best. Just keep even pressure on the piece to keep it flat against the sandpaper. Make some practice strokes against a smooth work top. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- www.mikedrums.com |
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#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
-MIKE- writes:
On 3/19/18 6:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. Can you grip it securely with you hands? If so you could stick sandpaper to a flat work surface, then flip it over and run the top over the sandpaper. Two or three sheets of paper or a long strip from a roll would be best. I'd be tempted to make a fitted Sabot to hold it in a vise. |
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#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 3/19/2018 8:20 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"Perry" wrote in message ... I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around? Yes, a drum sander could do the job assuming your piece has the minimum length necessary - as specified by the manufacturer - to keep the pressure rollers properly in contact. It won't get kicked around but don't try to skinny it down in one pass. The finish depends upon the grit of the abrasive used. Drum sanders are very handy and useful but it would be an expensive way to accomplish your goal. Any reason you couldn't glue a piece of paper to the bottom with water soulble glue, glue that to a piece of ply then mill it with your milling machine. When done, soak the casting free of the paper and carrier. Or build a vacum table and hold it in place while milling. With edge clamps, stops -- Jeff |
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#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 3/19/2018 6:06 AM, Perry wrote:
I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around? It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical. Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* /Â*Â*Â*Â* \ Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* /Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* \ Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |Â*Â* sanding drum Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* \Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* / Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* \Â* Â* / ---------------------------------------------- |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Direction of feed ==Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |Â*Â* 1" tall |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | ---------------------------------------------- Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* 6" long Thanks guys. So I actually have a drum sander similar to what you are referencing. How does this particular Epoxy sand normally? It is easy to heat the sand paper up on these type sanders if you try to take off too much. There is no give under the paper like most sander have so it can be unforgiving if you try to take off too much. When simply sanding hard woods I typically take off about 1/48" per pass. Once the paper is heated up and clogged it is toast in that spot. AND it is best to feed the material at an angle so that the sandpaper can cool. You can feed straight to control the scratch pattern on the last and very light pass or two. As far as smoothness of finish, that would depend on the grit paper you are using. |
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#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On Monday, March 19, 2018 at 11:09:12 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
-MIKE- writes: On 3/19/18 6:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. Can you grip it securely with you hands? If so you could stick sandpaper to a flat work surface, then flip it over and run the top over the sandpaper. Two or three sheets of paper or a long strip from a roll would be best. I'd be tempted to make a fitted Sabot to hold it in a vise. Is a "fitted Sabot" a fancy way of saying "a jig with slope sides"? ;-) |
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#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 19-Mar-18 7:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, March 19, 2018 at 7:06:49 AM UTC-4, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around? It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical. / \ / \ | | sanding drum \ / \ / ---------------------------------------------- | | | | | Direction of feed == | 1" tall | | | | ---------------------------------------------- 6" long Thanks guys. Can you make a jig with slope sides to match so that you *can* hold it a vice? I had thought about modifying a mold by machining 5 or 10mm off the top face. The sides are too sloped for clamping but just sitting in a mold makes it quite a bit more stable. I'd thought of perhaps trying to make a vacuum fixture out of the mold. |
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#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 19-Mar-18 8:20 PM, dadiOH wrote:
"Perry" wrote in message ... I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around? Yes, a drum sander could do the job assuming your piece has the minimum length necessary - as specified by the manufacturer - to keep the pressure rollers properly in contact. It won't get kicked around but don't try to skinny it down in one pass. The finish depends upon the grit of the abrasive used. Drum sanders are very handy and useful but it would be an expensive way to accomplish your goal. Any reason you couldn't glue a piece of paper to the bottom with water soulble glue, glue that to a piece of ply then mill it with your milling machine. When done, soak the casting free of the paper and carrier. I should have stated that this is an ongoing job rather than a one off, otherwise your ideas sound like they'd work well. I'll see if I can get the manual for the drum sander and see what its specs are. |
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#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 20-Mar-18 3:41 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 3/19/2018 8:20 AM, dadiOH wrote: "Perry" wrote in message ... I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around? Yes, a drum sander could do the job assuming your piece has the minimum length necessary - as specified by the manufacturer - to keep the pressure rollers properly in contact.Â* It won't get kicked around but don't try to skinny it down in one pass.Â* The finish depends upon the grit of the abrasive used. Drum sanders are very handy and useful but it would be an expensive way to accomplish your goal.Â* Any reason you couldn't glue a piece of paper to the bottom with water soulble glue, glue that to a piece of ply then mill it with your milling machine. When done, soak the casting free of the paper and carrier. Or build a vacum table and hold it in place while milling. With edge clamps, stops Yeah, that was my first idea - machine down the top of a mold and use it as a vacuum 'vise'. |
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#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 19-Mar-18 8:36 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Perry wrote in : I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-...g-machines-and -accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4 080p If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around? It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical. / \ / \ | | sanding drum \ / \ / ---------------------------------------------- | | | | | Direction of feed == | 1" tall | | | | ---------------------------------------------- 6" long Thanks guys. A relatively inexpensive way to find out would be to buy a sanding drum kit for a drill press. For a test part or two, you can hold it carefully by hand or clamp the base to a piece of angle aluminum. I'm not sure how well the thickness sander will hold your part. If you had a sled of some sort, where the pieces are held in a slot on a board, you might be able to make it work. If you do need to find a better way to hold the work, let me toss out a couple ideas: Build a box around the part and cover the box and part with thin plastic like from a baggie. Fill the space with expanding foam. Now you've got custom vise jaws that'll probably hold good enough. (If you've got small parts that jut out, cover them before you put the plastic on.) Another option is to drill and tap for screws on the bottom or drop a couple screws in before pouring the epoxy. I don't have any experience with molding screws in place, I just know it's possible. Now you've got a way to mount the part to a solid base plate for machining. Puckdropper Thanks some good ideas to mull over. I will look at sanding drum kits for drill presses - I had not heard of them before. I had also thought of making a sled on a slide system up and using it to pass the part by a bobbin sander. |
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#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 20-Mar-18 7:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, March 19, 2018 at 11:09:12 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote: -MIKE- writes: On 3/19/18 6:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. Can you grip it securely with you hands? If so you could stick sandpaper to a flat work surface, then flip it over and run the top over the sandpaper. Two or three sheets of paper or a long strip from a roll would be best. I'd be tempted to make a fitted Sabot to hold it in a vise. Is a "fitted Sabot" a fancy way of saying "a jig with slope sides"? ;-) I could use one of the molds to fashion something like this. The sloped sides complicate things. I'm thinking a vacuum pump and some slots in the bottom of the mold might work. |
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#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 20-Mar-18 4:49 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/19/2018 6:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around? It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical. Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* /Â*Â*Â*Â* \ Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* /Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* \ Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |Â*Â* sanding drum Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* \Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* / Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* \Â* Â* / ---------------------------------------------- |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Direction of feed ==Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |Â*Â* 1" tall |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | ---------------------------------------------- Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* 6" long Thanks guys. So I actually have a drum sander similar to what you are referencing. How does this particular Epoxy sand normally? It is easy to heat the sand paper up on these type sanders if you try to take off too much.Â* There is no give under the paper like most sander have so it can be unforgiving if you try to take off too much. When simply sanding hard woods I typically take off about 1/48" per pass.Â* Once the paper is heated up and clogged it is toast in that spot. AND it is best to feed the material at an angle so that the sandpaper can cool.Â* You can feed straight to control the scratch pattern on the last and very light pass or two. As far as smoothness of finish, that would depend on the grit paper you are using. The epoxy seems to sand well on a linishing belt. It doesn't clog up the paper. 1/48"..... 0.5mm - that sounds fine as may only need to remove 1 - 2mm. Do you know what the shortest piece is that you can feed through your machine? thanks. |
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#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 19-Mar-18 8:20 PM, dadiOH wrote:
"Perry" wrote in message ... I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around? Yes, a drum sander could do the job assuming your piece has the minimum length necessary - as specified by the manufacturer - to keep the pressure rollers properly in contact. It won't get kicked around but don't try to skinny it down in one pass. The finish depends upon the grit of the abrasive used. Good point - I found the manual for one of the drum sanders and it gives a minimum size of 3" long x 3/4" wide so it should be ok. Thanks. Drum sanders are very handy and useful but it would be an expensive way to accomplish your goal. Any reason you couldn't glue a piece of paper to the bottom with water soulble glue, glue that to a piece of ply then mill it with your milling machine. When done, soak the casting free of the paper and carrier. |
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#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 3/19/2018 8:29 PM, Perry wrote:
On 20-Mar-18 4:49 AM, Leon wrote: On 3/19/2018 6:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around? It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical. Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* /Â*Â*Â*Â* \ Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* /Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* \ Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |Â*Â* sanding drum Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* \Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* / Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* \Â* Â* / ---------------------------------------------- |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Direction of feed ==Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |Â*Â* 1" tall |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | ---------------------------------------------- Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* 6" long Thanks guys. So I actually have a drum sander similar to what you are referencing. How does this particular Epoxy sand normally? It is easy to heat the sand paper up on these type sanders if you try to take off too much.Â* There is no give under the paper like most sander have so it can be unforgiving if you try to take off too much. When simply sanding hard woods I typically take off about 1/48" per pass.Â* Once the paper is heated up and clogged it is toast in that spot. AND it is best to feed the material at an angle so that the sandpaper can cool.Â* You can feed straight to control the scratch pattern on the last and very light pass or two. As far as smoothness of finish, that would depend on the grit paper you are using. The epoxy seems to sand well on a linishing belt. It doesn't clog up the paper. 1/48"..... 0.5mm - that sounds fine as may only need to remove 1 - 2mm. Do you know what the shortest piece is that you can feed through your machine? IIRC 4~5". Again IIRC the length should be long enough that it is under any of the 2 rollers or the sanding drum itself. Keep in mind that when sending the work in at an angle that it effectively shortens the length of the work that you are sanding. thanks. |
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#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 20-Mar-18 9:00 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/19/2018 8:29 PM, Perry wrote: On 20-Mar-18 4:49 AM, Leon wrote: On 3/19/2018 6:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around? It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical. Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* /Â*Â*Â*Â* \ Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* /Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* \ Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |Â*Â* sanding drum Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* \Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* / Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* \Â* Â* / ---------------------------------------------- |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Direction of feed ==Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |Â*Â* 1" tall |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | ---------------------------------------------- Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* 6" long Thanks guys. So I actually have a drum sander similar to what you are referencing. How does this particular Epoxy sand normally? It is easy to heat the sand paper up on these type sanders if you try to take off too much.Â* There is no give under the paper like most sander have so it can be unforgiving if you try to take off too much. When simply sanding hard woods I typically take off about 1/48" per pass.Â* Once the paper is heated up and clogged it is toast in that spot. AND it is best to feed the material at an angle so that the sandpaper can cool.Â* You can feed straight to control the scratch pattern on the last and very light pass or two. As far as smoothness of finish, that would depend on the grit paper you are using. The epoxy seems to sand well on a linishing belt. It doesn't clog up the paper. 1/48"..... 0.5mm - that sounds fine as may only need to remove 1 - 2mm. Do you know what the shortest piece is that you can feed through your machine? IIRC 4~5".Â* Again IIRC the length should be long enough that it is under any of the 2 rollers or the sanding drum itself.Â* Keep in mind that when sending the work in at an angle that it effectively shortens the length of the work that you are sanding. thanks. Thanks Leon. As a new visitor to this NG I've found it very helpful! |
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#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 3/20/2018 9:08 PM, Perry wrote:
On 20-Mar-18 9:00 PM, Leon wrote: On 3/19/2018 8:29 PM, Perry wrote: On 20-Mar-18 4:49 AM, Leon wrote: On 3/19/2018 6:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around? It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical. Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* /Â*Â*Â*Â* \ Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* /Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* \ Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |Â*Â* sanding drum Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* \Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* / Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* \Â* Â* / ---------------------------------------------- |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Direction of feed ==Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |Â*Â* 1" tall |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | ---------------------------------------------- Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* 6" long Thanks guys. So I actually have a drum sander similar to what you are referencing. How does this particular Epoxy sand normally? It is easy to heat the sand paper up on these type sanders if you try to take off too much.Â* There is no give under the paper like most sander have so it can be unforgiving if you try to take off too much. When simply sanding hard woods I typically take off about 1/48" per pass.Â* Once the paper is heated up and clogged it is toast in that spot. AND it is best to feed the material at an angle so that the sandpaper can cool.Â* You can feed straight to control the scratch pattern on the last and very light pass or two. As far as smoothness of finish, that would depend on the grit paper you are using. The epoxy seems to sand well on a linishing belt. It doesn't clog up the paper. 1/48"..... 0.5mm - that sounds fine as may only need to remove 1 - 2mm. Do you know what the shortest piece is that you can feed through your machine? IIRC 4~5".Â* Again IIRC the length should be long enough that it is under any of the 2 rollers or the sanding drum itself.Â* Keep in mind that when sending the work in at an angle that it effectively shortens the length of the work that you are sanding. thanks. Thanks Leon. As a new visitor to this NG I've found it very helpful! Think about the answers you get. ;~) Many of the answers are opinions vs. valid answers. Contrary to popular belief, I am not a French model. Every machine will be different and have different specs. I would highly recommend contacting the manufacturer to verify critical measurements. Machines change. |
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#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around? It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical. / \ / \ | | sanding drum \ / \ / ---------------------------------------------- | | | | | Direction of feed == | 1" tall | | | | ---------------------------------------------- 6" long Thanks guys. I've done 6" work pieces on my 16" drum sander free hand and 2" pieces with a sled no problem. If I was doing this for more than a few parts, I'd make a sled with a 3/4" plywood base and attach a raised frame from 3/4" x 1" wood in a "U" shape (10" long sides, 2-1/8" wide internally, 1" deep). The piece would sit in this sled and you would pass it under the drum with the open frame end first. The long sides of the frame make first contact with the pressure rollers and prevent snipe. The frame keeps the part from sliding backwards. Epoxy is generally like wood glue on drum belts, it has a tendency to gum them up. I typically maintain my belts with a belt cleaning stick and when they get fouled with glue or wood sap, I soak them in some ammonia or "Simple Green" cleaner for a few hours then rinse. Good as new! Epoxy "gumming" may/will be much more difficult to remove in attempts to extend belt life. For my sander, I like to use about 1/32" cut per pass with coarse belts ( less than 100 grit ) and then about 1/64 or slightly less for finer grits up to 220. Beyond that is just too much for clean, burn free passes. Of course epoxy will act differently and need some trial and error with grit selection. -BR |
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#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around? It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical. Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* /Â*Â*Â*Â* \ Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* /Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* \ Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |Â*Â* sanding drum Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* \Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* / Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* \Â* Â* / ---------------------------------------------- |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Direction of feed ==Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* |Â*Â* 1" tall |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | |Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â *Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* | ---------------------------------------------- Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* 6" long Thanks guys. I've done 6" work pieces on my 16" drum sander free hand and 2" pieces with a sled no problem. If I was doing this for more than a few parts, I'd make a sled with a 3/4" plywood base and attach a raised frame from 3/4" x 1" wood in a "U" shape (10" long sides, 2-1/8" wide internally, 1" deep). The piece would sit in this sled and you would pass it under the drum with the open frame end first. The long sides of the frame make first contact with the pressure rollers and prevent snipe. The frame keeps the part from sliding backwards. Epoxy is generally like wood glue on drum belts, it has a tendency to gum them up. I typically maintain my belts with a belt cleaning stick and when they get fouled with glue or wood sap, I soak them in some ammonia or "Simple Green" cleaner for a few hours then rinse. Good as new! Epoxy "gumming" may/will be much more difficult to remove in attempts to extend belt life. For my sander, I like to use about 1/32" cut per pass with coarse belts ( less than 100 grit ) and then about 1/64 or slightly less for finer grits up to 220. Beyond that is just too much for clean, burn free passes. Of course epoxy will act differently and need some trial and error with grit selection. -BR Thanks Brewster. Some good information. |
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#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm -- Jack Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions. http://jbstein.com |
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#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote: On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again. |
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#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 3/30/18 10:06 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote: On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again. If you're not measuring with a micrometer, you can do a pretty good job eyeballing it on the sander then checking with calipers. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- www.mikedrums.com |
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#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 3/30/2018 10:38 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 3/30/18 10:06 AM, Leon wrote: On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote: On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again. If you're not measuring with a micrometer, you can do a pretty good job eyeballing it on the sander then checking with calipers. Absolutely, you could get close, maybe close enough that it would not matter. But if the OP will be investing to buy a planer or drum sander he may intend to surface more pieces than you would ever want to eyeball. ;~) |
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#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote: On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again. In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run anything thru the planer after sanding. Either I have magic hands, or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery. -- Jack Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions. http://jbstein.com |
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#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 3/30/2018 12:14 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/30/2018 10:38 AM, -MIKE- wrote: On 3/30/18 10:06 AM, Leon wrote: On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote: On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again. If you're not measuring with a micrometer, you can do a pretty good job eyeballing it on the sander then checking with calipers. Absolutely, you could get close, maybe close enough that it would not matter. But if the OP will be investing to buy a planer or drum sander he may intend to surface more pieces than you would ever want to eyeball. ;~) If he is in a production environment, he should call his tool provider and ask them what's the best tool for what he wants to accomplish, not asking a bunch of hobbyists and garage/basement dwellers that can spend weeks arguing over the best way to drill a hole in your bench top for a bench dog. They probably have a vacuum table for his milling machine, or perhaps a nice CNC machine that will turn 100's or 1000's out every day. -- Jack Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions. http://jbstein.com |
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#28
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote:
On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote: On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote: On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again. In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run anything thru the planer after sanding.Â* Either I have magic hands, or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery. In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not be parallel. |
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#29
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 4/1/2018 8:30 AM, Jack wrote:
On 3/30/2018 12:14 PM, Leon wrote: On 3/30/2018 10:38 AM, -MIKE- wrote: On 3/30/18 10:06 AM, Leon wrote: On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote: On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again. If you're not measuring with a micrometer, you can do a pretty good job eyeballing it on the sander then checking with calipers. Absolutely, you could get close, maybe close enough that it would not matter.Â* But if the OP will be investing to buy a planer or drum sander he may intend to surface more pieces than you would ever want to eyeball.Â* ;~) If he is in a production environment, he should call his tool provider and ask them what's the best tool for what he wants to accomplish, not asking a bunch of hobbyists and garage/basement dwellers that can spend weeks arguing over the best way to drill a hole in your bench top for a bench dog. They probably have a vacuum table for his milling machine, or perhaps a nice CNC machine that will turn 100's or 1000's out every day. Probably but there is a lot of difference between one offs and production. He may fall in between those amounts. |
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#30
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 4/1/2018 12:42 PM, Leon wrote:
On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote: On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote: On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again. In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run anything thru the planer after sanding. Either I have magic hands, or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery. In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not be parallel. It's been oft said parallel lines meet at infinity as well... At any rate, for most all wood work, the opposite surfaces will be parallel _enough_, unless your hands are made of lead and out of control, or your sanding something for use in brain surgery.... -- Jack Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions. http://jbstein.com |
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#31
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On Sun, 1 Apr 2018 09:09:50 -0400, Jack wrote:
On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote: On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote: On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again. In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run anything thru the planer after sanding. Either I have magic hands, or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery. In junior high school wood shop we were required to square a block with a hand plane before we could move on. No fancy machines needed, they just make it quicker and easier. Doesn't really help with epoxy though. Regardless of any of this, for a 6x1x2 block, your typical benchtop planer won't work--it won't feed something that small. Proxxon's might if you can find one. However I'd want to see how it handled epoxy and what the finish looked like before I spent for one--they aren't cheap. For a piece that small I think a drum sander of the kind shown is overkill. If it's onesey-twosey then cleaning it up with a benchtop belt sander should work fine. If it's mass production I'd look into injection molding, where the shape of the piece is completely defined by the mold and all that has to be cleaned up is a tiny bit of sprue that if properly placed could be sheared. |
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#32
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 4/1/18 11:42 AM, Leon wrote:
On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote: On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote: On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again. In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run anything thru the planer after sanding.Â* Either I have magic hands, or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery. In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not be parallel. Give yourself a little more credit, man! :-p When I was doing a lot of drum building and shell repairs, I often had to correct shells on which the two bearing edges weren't parallel. The bearing edges are the open ends of the drum shell (wood cylinder) on which the drums heads sit. If they aren't parallel the drum can end up producing some pretty ugly overtones. Add to that, the fact that the bearing edges must be perpendicular to the sides of the shell. We call it having "square edges." This must be achieved on repairs, newly built shells, or shells that are being cut down for custom work. Imagine trying to figure out a tool, jig, any kind of setup that will produce that on a cylinder 10" to 24" wide by 5" to 20" deep. I'm not sure there's a planer or surface sander that would handle it. :-) After many experiments, I ended up doing the most simple thing. I adhered sandpaper to my flat table, which was a piece of granite large enough to hold a 22" bass drum shell. Then I would set the shell down with the bearing edge sitting flat against the sandpaper. I would just rotate the shell in an arc, either spinning in a circle or back and forth, depending on what I needed to correct. I would check for square using a set-up table that had a registration stick which was square to the table surface and had another sliding piece on it to set as a height gauge. With the shell set on the table, against the square, I could rotate the drum to see if the shell stayed square against the stick. If there was light between them, at any point, that told be where I needed to sand the bearing edge down to correct it. Same thing with the height marker. The most efficient way I found to do this was by hand on the sanding table. I would just put a bit more pressure on my hands on the areas that needed sanded down. I got very quick with this technique and I produced dead-nuts-on results doing it. Bigger drums shops use motorized sanding tables, but they are flipped up 90degrees, so you can hold the shell against it while standing next to it. Better dust collection that way, too. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- www.mikedrums.com |
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#33
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 4/1/2018 1:22 PM, Jack wrote:
On 4/1/2018 12:42 PM, Leon wrote: On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote: On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote: On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again. In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run anything thru the planer after sanding.Â* Either I have magic hands, or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery. In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not be parallel. It's been oft said parallel lines meet at infinity as well... By definition, NO. By humans using imperfect methods to maintain parallel, YES. At any rate, for most all wood work, the opposite surfaces will be parallel _enough_, Maybe for you. |
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#34
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 4/1/2018 1:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 4/1/18 11:42 AM, Leon wrote: On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote: On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote: On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again. In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run anything thru the planer after sanding.Â* Either I have magic hands, or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery. In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not be parallel. Give yourself a little more credit, man!Â* :-p I know, I know... LOL. I was just indicating that years of doing something does not mean you did it correctly. If I was doing a few that would be OK. But doing it for 40 or 41 years, you find a better way. I mostly sand, on a disk sander, the curved fronts of my drawer pulls, by eyeball. |
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#35
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 4/1/2018 2:23 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sun, 1 Apr 2018 09:09:50 -0400, Jack wrote: On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote: On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote: On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again. In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run anything thru the planer after sanding. Either I have magic hands, or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery. In junior high school wood shop we were required to square a block with a hand plane before we could move on. No fancy machines needed, they just make it quicker and easier. Doesn't really help with epoxy though. Regardless of any of this, for a 6x1x2 block, your typical benchtop planer won't work--it won't feed something that small. Proxxon's might if you can find one. However I'd want to see how it handled epoxy and what the finish looked like before I spent for one--they aren't cheap. For a piece that small I think a drum sander of the kind shown is overkill. If it's onesey-twosey then cleaning it up with a benchtop belt sander should work fine. If it's mass production I'd look into injection molding, where the shape of the piece is completely defined by the mold and all that has to be cleaned up is a tiny bit of sprue that if properly placed could be sheared. I was thinking of that as well. Since it is a molding, I'd want the molding to require minimal sanding, less than 1/16" I'd think, but I'm more of a garage dwelling wood worker so I'd use a belt sander like I referenced for small quantities. Large production I'd want closer tolerances in manufacture. -- Jack Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions. http://jbstein.com |
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#36
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 4/1/2018 2:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 4/1/18 11:42 AM, Leon wrote: On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote: On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote: On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again. In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run anything thru the planer after sanding. Either I have magic hands, or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery. In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not be parallel. Give yourself a little more credit, man! :-p When I was doing a lot of drum building and shell repairs, I often had to correct shells on which the two bearing edges weren't parallel. The bearing edges are the open ends of the drum shell (wood cylinder) on which the drums heads sit. If they aren't parallel the drum can end up producing some pretty ugly overtones. Add to that, the fact that the bearing edges must be perpendicular to the sides of the shell. We call it having "square edges." This must be achieved on repairs, newly built shells, or shells that are being cut down for custom work. Imagine trying to figure out a tool, jig, any kind of setup that will produce that on a cylinder 10" to 24" wide by 5" to 20" deep. I'm not sure there's a planer or surface sander that would handle it. :-) After many experiments, I ended up doing the most simple thing. I adhered sandpaper to my flat table, which was a piece of granite large enough to hold a 22" bass drum shell. Then I would set the shell down with the bearing edge sitting flat against the sandpaper. I would just rotate the shell in an arc, either spinning in a circle or back and forth, depending on what I needed to correct. I would check for square using a set-up table that had a registration stick which was square to the table surface and had another sliding piece on it to set as a height gauge. With the shell set on the table, against the square, I could rotate the drum to see if the shell stayed square against the stick. If there was light between them, at any point, that told be where I needed to sand the bearing edge down to correct it. Same thing with the height marker. The most efficient way I found to do this was by hand on the sanding table. I would just put a bit more pressure on my hands on the areas that needed sanded down. I got very quick with this technique and I produced dead-nuts-on results doing it. Bigger drums shops use motorized sanding tables, but they are flipped up 90degrees, so you can hold the shell against it while standing next to it. Better dust collection that way, too. +1 I normally don't give "+1"s because if I disagree with something said I either say something or ignore it if I don't care, so +1 is seldom to never necessary, but today, I gave you a +1 because I'd hate the denizens of this rec to accuse me of being a disagreeable curmudgeon. Also, and more important is I recall being adequately impressed (as an experienced woodworker and ex professional drummer) with the drums you made. Really nice work to be proud of. -- Jack Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions. http://jbstein.com |
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#37
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 4/1/2018 4:07 PM, Leon wrote:
On 4/1/2018 1:22 PM, Jack wrote: On 4/1/2018 12:42 PM, Leon wrote: On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote: On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote: On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again. In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run anything thru the planer after sanding. Either I have magic hands, or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery. In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not be parallel. It's been oft said parallel lines meet at infinity as well... By definition, NO. By humans using imperfect methods to maintain parallel, YES. At any rate, for most all wood work, the opposite surfaces will be parallel _enough_, Maybe for you. Yes, for me, and probably most woodworkers on the planet, except maybe you. -- Jack Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions. http://jbstein.com |
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#38
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 4/2/18 12:16 PM, Jack wrote:
On 4/1/2018 2:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/1/18 11:42 AM, Leon wrote: On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote: On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote: On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again. In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run anything thru the planer after sanding.Â* Either I have magic hands, or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery. In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not be parallel. Give yourself a little more credit, man!Â* :-p When I was doing a lot of drum building and shell repairs, I often had to correct shells on which the two bearing edges weren't parallel. The bearing edges are the open ends of the drum shell (wood cylinder) on which the drums heads sit.Â* If they aren't parallel the drum can end up producing some pretty ugly overtones.Â* Add to that, the fact that the bearing edges must be perpendicular to the sides of the shell.Â* We call it having "square edges."Â* This must be achieved on repairs, newly built shells, or shells that are being cut down for custom work. Imagine trying to figure out a tool, jig, any kind of setup that will produce that on a cylinder 10" to 24" wide by 5" to 20" deep.Â* I'm not sure there's a planer or surface sander that would handle it.Â* :-) After many experiments, I ended up doing the most simple thing.Â* I adhered sandpaper to my flat table, which was a piece of granite large enough to hold a 22" bass drum shell. Then I would set the shell down with the bearing edge sitting flat against the sandpaper.Â* I would just rotate the shell in an arc, either spinning in a circle or back and forth, depending on what I needed to correct. I would check for square using a set-up table that had a registration stick which was square to the table surface and had another sliding piece on it to set as a height gauge.Â* With the shell set on the table, against the square, I could rotate the drum to see if the shell stayed square against the stick.Â* If there was light between them, at any point, that told be where I needed to sand the bearing edge down to correct it.Â*Â* Same thing with the height marker. The most efficient way I found to do this was by hand on the sanding table.Â* I would just put a bit more pressure on my hands on the areas that needed sanded down.Â* I got very quick with this technique and I produced dead-nuts-on results doing it. Bigger drums shops use motorized sanding tables, but they are flipped up 90degrees, so you can hold the shell against it while standing next to it.Â* Better dust collection that way, too. +1 I normally don't give "+1"s because if I disagree with something said I either say something or ignore it if I don't care, so +1 is seldom to never necessary, but today, I gave you a +1 because I'd hate the denizens of this rec to accuse me of being a disagreeable curmudgeon. LOL! Well, I'm pretty sure I've accused you of that at least a couple times in the past. So feel free to tuck this away and pull it out for any future occasion in which I curmudgeonize you! :-) Also, and more important is I recall being adequately impressed (as an experienced woodworker and ex professional drummer) with the drums you made.Â* Really nice work to be proud of. Thanks, Jack. I appreciate that. We all give each other plenty of $h!t in here, but I know even the worst of offenders would likely get along great in person, over a beer or two. I've personally met at least a few guys in here, as well as had some video chats with some, including the late, great Robotoy (RIP). And in every case, we all went away enjoying the company and liking each other. I have no doubt, you would yield the same results. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- www.mikedrums.com |
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#39
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On Monday, April 2, 2018 at 6:13:22 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
On 4/2/18 12:16 PM, Jack wrote: On 4/1/2018 2:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/1/18 11:42 AM, Leon wrote: On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote: On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote: On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again. In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run anything thru the planer after sanding.Â* Either I have magic hands, or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery. In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not be parallel. Give yourself a little more credit, man!Â* :-p When I was doing a lot of drum building and shell repairs, I often had to correct shells on which the two bearing edges weren't parallel. The bearing edges are the open ends of the drum shell (wood cylinder) on which the drums heads sit.Â* If they aren't parallel the drum can end up producing some pretty ugly overtones.Â* Add to that, the fact that the bearing edges must be perpendicular to the sides of the shell.Â* We call it having "square edges."Â* This must be achieved on repairs, newly built shells, or shells that are being cut down for custom work. Imagine trying to figure out a tool, jig, any kind of setup that will produce that on a cylinder 10" to 24" wide by 5" to 20" deep.Â* I'm not sure there's a planer or surface sander that would handle it.Â* :-) After many experiments, I ended up doing the most simple thing.Â* I adhered sandpaper to my flat table, which was a piece of granite large enough to hold a 22" bass drum shell. Then I would set the shell down with the bearing edge sitting flat against the sandpaper.Â* I would just rotate the shell in an arc, either spinning in a circle or back and forth, depending on what I needed to correct. I would check for square using a set-up table that had a registration stick which was square to the table surface and had another sliding piece on it to set as a height gauge.Â* With the shell set on the table, against the square, I could rotate the drum to see if the shell stayed square against the stick.Â* If there was light between them, at any point, that told be where I needed to sand the bearing edge down to correct it.Â*Â* Same thing with the height marker. The most efficient way I found to do this was by hand on the sanding table.Â* I would just put a bit more pressure on my hands on the areas that needed sanded down.Â* I got very quick with this technique and I produced dead-nuts-on results doing it. Bigger drums shops use motorized sanding tables, but they are flipped up 90degrees, so you can hold the shell against it while standing next to it.Â* Better dust collection that way, too. +1 I normally don't give "+1"s because if I disagree with something said I either say something or ignore it if I don't care, so +1 is seldom to never necessary, but today, I gave you a +1 because I'd hate the denizens of this rec to accuse me of being a disagreeable curmudgeon. LOL! Well, I'm pretty sure I've accused you of that at least a couple times in the past. So feel free to tuck this away and pull it out for any future occasion in which I curmudgeonize you! :-) Also, and more important is I recall being adequately impressed (as an experienced woodworker and ex professional drummer) with the drums you made.Â* Really nice work to be proud of. Thanks, Jack. I appreciate that. We all give each other plenty of $h!t in here, but I know even the worst of offenders would likely get along great in person, over a beer or two. I've personally met at least a few guys in here, as well as had some video chats with some, including the late, great Robotoy (RIP). And in every case, we all went away enjoying the company and liking each other. They may have told *you* that they liked you, but that's not what they are telling others. How's that for giving some $h!t? ;-) |
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#40
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 4/2/18 9:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, April 2, 2018 at 6:13:22 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/2/18 12:16 PM, Jack wrote: On 4/1/2018 2:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/1/18 11:42 AM, Leon wrote: On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote: On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote: On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again. In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run anything thru the planer after sanding.Â* Either I have magic hands, or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery. In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not be parallel. Give yourself a little more credit, man!Â* :-p When I was doing a lot of drum building and shell repairs, I often had to correct shells on which the two bearing edges weren't parallel. The bearing edges are the open ends of the drum shell (wood cylinder) on which the drums heads sit.Â* If they aren't parallel the drum can end up producing some pretty ugly overtones.Â* Add to that, the fact that the bearing edges must be perpendicular to the sides of the shell.Â* We call it having "square edges."Â* This must be achieved on repairs, newly built shells, or shells that are being cut down for custom work. Imagine trying to figure out a tool, jig, any kind of setup that will produce that on a cylinder 10" to 24" wide by 5" to 20" deep.Â* I'm not sure there's a planer or surface sander that would handle it.Â* :-) After many experiments, I ended up doing the most simple thing.Â* I adhered sandpaper to my flat table, which was a piece of granite large enough to hold a 22" bass drum shell. Then I would set the shell down with the bearing edge sitting flat against the sandpaper.Â* I would just rotate the shell in an arc, either spinning in a circle or back and forth, depending on what I needed to correct. I would check for square using a set-up table that had a registration stick which was square to the table surface and had another sliding piece on it to set as a height gauge.Â* With the shell set on the table, against the square, I could rotate the drum to see if the shell stayed square against the stick.Â* If there was light between them, at any point, that told be where I needed to sand the bearing edge down to correct it.Â*Â* Same thing with the height marker. The most efficient way I found to do this was by hand on the sanding table.Â* I would just put a bit more pressure on my hands on the areas that needed sanded down.Â* I got very quick with this technique and I produced dead-nuts-on results doing it. Bigger drums shops use motorized sanding tables, but they are flipped up 90degrees, so you can hold the shell against it while standing next to it.Â* Better dust collection that way, too. +1 I normally don't give "+1"s because if I disagree with something said I either say something or ignore it if I don't care, so +1 is seldom to never necessary, but today, I gave you a +1 because I'd hate the denizens of this rec to accuse me of being a disagreeable curmudgeon. LOL! Well, I'm pretty sure I've accused you of that at least a couple times in the past. So feel free to tuck this away and pull it out for any future occasion in which I curmudgeonize you! :-) Also, and more important is I recall being adequately impressed (as an experienced woodworker and ex professional drummer) with the drums you made.Â* Really nice work to be proud of. Thanks, Jack. I appreciate that. We all give each other plenty of $h!t in here, but I know even the worst of offenders would likely get along great in person, over a beer or two. I've personally met at least a few guys in here, as well as had some video chats with some, including the late, great Robotoy (RIP). And in every case, we all went away enjoying the company and liking each other. They may have told *you* that they liked you, but that's not what they are telling others. How's that for giving some $h!t? ;-) LOL! I was talking about me liking those sumbenches! -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- www.mikedrums.com |
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