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#41
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Advice on drum sander usage.
On 4/2/2018 6:13 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 4/2/18 12:16 PM, Jack wrote: On 4/1/2018 2:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote: On 4/1/18 11:42 AM, Leon wrote: On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote: On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote: On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote: On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote: On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote: I'm not a wood worker so bear with me...... I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch tall. It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top. The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a milling machine. I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these might work? https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110 https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander. Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again. In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run anything thru the planer after sanding. Either I have magic hands, or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery. In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not be parallel. Give yourself a little more credit, man! :-p When I was doing a lot of drum building and shell repairs, I often had to correct shells on which the two bearing edges weren't parallel. The bearing edges are the open ends of the drum shell (wood cylinder) on which the drums heads sit. If they aren't parallel the drum can end up producing some pretty ugly overtones. Add to that, the fact that the bearing edges must be perpendicular to the sides of the shell. We call it having "square edges." This must be achieved on repairs, newly built shells, or shells that are being cut down for custom work. Imagine trying to figure out a tool, jig, any kind of setup that will produce that on a cylinder 10" to 24" wide by 5" to 20" deep. I'm not sure there's a planer or surface sander that would handle it. :-) After many experiments, I ended up doing the most simple thing. I adhered sandpaper to my flat table, which was a piece of granite large enough to hold a 22" bass drum shell. Then I would set the shell down with the bearing edge sitting flat against the sandpaper. I would just rotate the shell in an arc, either spinning in a circle or back and forth, depending on what I needed to correct. I would check for square using a set-up table that had a registration stick which was square to the table surface and had another sliding piece on it to set as a height gauge. With the shell set on the table, against the square, I could rotate the drum to see if the shell stayed square against the stick. If there was light between them, at any point, that told be where I needed to sand the bearing edge down to correct it. Same thing with the height marker. The most efficient way I found to do this was by hand on the sanding table. I would just put a bit more pressure on my hands on the areas that needed sanded down. I got very quick with this technique and I produced dead-nuts-on results doing it. Bigger drums shops use motorized sanding tables, but they are flipped up 90degrees, so you can hold the shell against it while standing next to it. Better dust collection that way, too. +1 I normally don't give "+1"s because if I disagree with something said I either say something or ignore it if I don't care, so +1 is seldom to never necessary, but today, I gave you a +1 because I'd hate the denizens of this rec to accuse me of being a disagreeable curmudgeon. LOL! Well, I'm pretty sure I've accused you of that at least a couple times in the past. So feel free to tuck this away and pull it out for any future occasion in which I curmudgeonize you! :-) Also, and more important is I recall being adequately impressed (as an experienced woodworker and ex professional drummer) with the drums you made. Really nice work to be proud of. Thanks, Jack. I appreciate that. We all give each other plenty of $h!t in here, but I know even the worst of offenders would likely get along great in person, over a beer or two. Giving each other a hard time is what it's all about. I mentioned before everyone, with the possible exception of the Comet, disagrees and argues with each other. I've been doing this stuff (echo's before newsgroups) long before Algore invented the internet, and it has always been this way. If you agree too much with anyone you used to be accused of "****ing in their pocket" Always knew what that meant but never quite knew how it got to mean that:-) At any rate, if I take time to disagree with someone, it _generally_ means I respect them enough to waste time talking to them. You need thick skin, and can't be too stupid. No one, including myself, meets that criteria all the time... I've personally met at least a few guys in here, as well as had some video chats with some, including the late, great Robotoy (RIP). And in every case, we all went away enjoying the company and liking each other. I have no doubt, you would yield the same results. Most of us are woodworkers of some degree or another, so we all have something in common we can discuss to the nth degree. Lots to learn, lots to teach. It's all good... -- Jack Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions. http://jbstein.com |
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