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Default Advice on drum sander usage.

On 4/2/2018 6:13 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 4/2/18 12:16 PM, Jack wrote:
On 4/1/2018 2:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 4/1/18 11:42 AM, Leon wrote:
On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote:
On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......


I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide
x 1
inch tall.

It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
casting
process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.

The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
under a
milling machine.


I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of
these
might work?



https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110

https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p




Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a
belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a
heck
of a lot cheaper than a drum sander.

Something like this:
https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm

And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.

In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run
anything thru the planer after sanding. Either I have magic hands,
or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain
surgery.


In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not
be parallel.

Give yourself a little more credit, man! :-p

When I was doing a lot of drum building and shell repairs, I often had
to correct shells on which the two bearing edges weren't parallel.
The bearing edges are the open ends of the drum shell (wood cylinder) on
which the drums heads sit. If they aren't parallel the drum can end up
producing some pretty ugly overtones. Add to that, the fact that the
bearing edges must be perpendicular to the sides of the shell. We call
it having "square edges." This must be achieved on repairs, newly built
shells, or shells that are being cut down for custom work.

Imagine trying to figure out a tool, jig, any kind of setup that will
produce that on a cylinder 10" to 24" wide by 5" to 20" deep. I'm not
sure there's a planer or surface sander that would handle it. :-)

After many experiments, I ended up doing the most simple thing. I
adhered sandpaper to my flat table, which was a piece of granite large
enough to hold a 22" bass drum shell.
Then I would set the shell down with the bearing edge sitting flat
against the sandpaper. I would just rotate the shell in an arc, either
spinning in a circle or back and forth, depending on what I needed to
correct.

I would check for square using a set-up table that had a registration
stick which was square to the table surface and had another sliding
piece on it to set as a height gauge. With the shell set on the table,
against the square, I could rotate the drum to see if the shell stayed
square against the stick. If there was light between them, at any
point, that told be where I needed to sand the bearing edge down to
correct it. Same thing with the height marker.

The most efficient way I found to do this was by hand on the sanding
table. I would just put a bit more pressure on my hands on the areas
that needed sanded down. I got very quick with this technique and I
produced dead-nuts-on results doing it.

Bigger drums shops use motorized sanding tables, but they are flipped up
90degrees, so you can hold the shell against it while standing next to
it. Better dust collection that way, too.


+1
I normally don't give "+1"s because if I disagree with something said
I either say something or ignore it if I don't care, so +1 is seldom
to never necessary, but today, I gave you a +1 because I'd hate the
denizens of this rec to accuse me of being a disagreeable curmudgeon.


LOL! Well, I'm pretty sure I've accused you of that at least a couple
times in the past.
So feel free to tuck this away and pull it out for any future occasion
in which I curmudgeonize you! :-)


Also, and more important is I recall being adequately impressed (as an
experienced woodworker and ex professional drummer) with the drums you
made. Really nice work to be proud of.


Thanks, Jack. I appreciate that.
We all give each other plenty of $h!t in here, but I know even the worst
of offenders would likely get along great in person, over a beer or two.


Giving each other a hard time is what it's all about. I mentioned before
everyone, with the possible exception of the Comet, disagrees and argues
with each other. I've been doing this stuff (echo's before newsgroups)
long before Algore invented the internet, and it has always been this
way. If you agree too much with anyone you used to be accused of
"****ing in their pocket" Always knew what that meant but never quite
knew how it got to mean that:-) At any rate, if I take time to disagree
with someone, it _generally_ means I respect them enough to waste time
talking to them. You need thick skin, and can't be too stupid. No one,
including myself, meets that criteria all the time...

I've personally met at least a few guys in here, as well as had some
video chats with some, including the late, great Robotoy (RIP). And in
every case, we all went away enjoying the company and liking each other.

I have no doubt, you would yield the same results.


Most of us are woodworkers of some degree or another, so we all have
something in common we can discuss to the nth degree. Lots to learn,
lots to teach. It's all good...

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com
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