On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 09:19:01 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/9/2018 9:48 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 19:20:47 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/9/2018 6:28 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 08:48:11 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/8/2018 9:10 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 8 Mar 2018 20:56:11 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/8/2018 7:52 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 7 Mar 2018 22:20:32 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/7/2018 8:27 PM, Ignoramus20263 wrote:
I do many things, but one of them is I build wooden crates for
machinery. I would like to buy a good "construction stapler" that
shoots 7/16" wide staples, to attach OSB to 2x4s.

Would anyone recommend a stapler that is well made. I heard many
comments that these staplers cheapened out and simply do not last.

Thanks a ;lot

i
* I like the Porter-Cable nail guns I have , also like my H-F framing
nailer - but it's heavy . I don't recall the brand of staplers we used
in the cabinet shops , but they all seemed pretty much the same . As Dan
said , sometimes suppliers will give you guns , but I doubt you'll be
using the kind of volume they want for that .
Not only are the HF framing nailers heavy but they're huge (at least
mine is). It's really hard to maneuver it around and impossible to
get into many places. I used it once, then went out and bought a
Hitachi.

My PC brad, finish, and narrow crown staplers work fine, though.


* I originally bought that nailer to build a fence . That job paid for
it , the rest is gravy - That nail gun has pretty much built this house
we're living in . Framing , sheathing , roof decking , the floor , all
nailed with that gun . I found very few situations that I couldn't use it .

A framing nailer to build a fence?


Yes! You do have to shoot nails to attach 2x4 to 4x4 posts.

What would you be thinking?

Screws/lags for rails to posts. Ringshank siding/fencing nails for
slats to rails.


I at one time used deck screws to attach rails to the posts but that was
when I was using a hammer for everything. A friend and I probably
removed and build 20 fences way back when and his framing nailer cut the
work time by 1/2 to 2/3's. This was 3 rail fences Plus a rot board at
the bottom. I will never build another fence with out a rot board. It
is huge time saver and keeps every thing level, providing the rot board
is level. One of us could put 6 nails into a picket almost as fast as
the other one of us could position the next picket and insure it was
plum. Neither of us were ever really waiting on the other to complete
our task.

What's a "rot board"? Just a spacer to keep the picket off the
ground?


Pretty much, I use a 5/4 treated deck board. If it rots it is much
easier and less expensive to replace than 16+ pickets.

I place the rot board on the ground, level, and attach to the front face
of the post. Then the bottom 2x4 rail directly behind between the posts
and 2.5" above the rot board. The rail's bottom is 1" below the top of
the rot board. I put a nail or two through the face of the rot board
into the bottom 2x4 rail to keep them from separating should one want to
bow.
Then a mid 2x4 rail between the posts and a top 2x4 rail on top of the
posts. Pickets stand on the top edge of the rot board.

OK, I was thinking that the "rot board" was just for spacing and
didn't remain part of the fence. I've never seen a fence constructed
as you describe. Makes sense, though. End grain doesn't touch
anything wet. I generally just left the pickets a couple of inches
above the ground (so I could get a weed whacker under them).

I have three framing nailers that I use in rotation, or as needed. Two different model Hitachis, one Bostitch.

All of them shoot from 6d (2") to 12d (3 1/4") by just changing nails. Same magazine.

Most folks have no idea what is available as far as pneumatic nails go, or what nail sizes are at their gun will shoot.

Nails not commonly available but easily ordered would be nails with certain glues, galvanized or plated, ring shanks, chrome plated, stainless Steel, and any combination.

About ten years ago I put a clay tile roof on a house (tiles about 90 years old, hand thrown) and the screed attachment spec was to use 8d stainless ring shanks nails. Took about 2 weeks to get them, but no problem once ordered.

Robert

On 3/10/2018 10:40 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 09:19:01 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/9/2018 9:48 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 19:20:47 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/9/2018 6:28 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 08:48:11 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/8/2018 9:10 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 8 Mar 2018 20:56:11 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/8/2018 7:52 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 7 Mar 2018 22:20:32 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/7/2018 8:27 PM, Ignoramus20263 wrote:
I do many things, but one of them is I build wooden crates for
machinery. I would like to buy a good "construction stapler" that
shoots 7/16" wide staples, to attach OSB to 2x4s.

Would anyone recommend a stapler that is well made. I heard many
comments that these staplers cheapened out and simply do not last.

Thanks a ;lot

i
Â* I like the Porter-Cable nail guns I have , also like my H-F framing
nailer - but it's heavy . I don't recall the brand of staplers we used
in the cabinet shops , but they all seemed pretty much the same . As Dan
said , sometimes suppliers will give you guns , but I doubt you'll be
using the kind of volume they want for that .
Not only are the HF framing nailers heavy but they're huge (at least
mine is). It's really hard to maneuver it around and impossible to
get into many places. I used it once, then went out and bought a
Hitachi.

My PC brad, finish, and narrow crown staplers work fine, though.


Â* I originally bought that nailer to build a fence . That job paid for
it , the rest is gravy - That nail gun has pretty much built this house
we're living in . Framing , sheathing , roof decking , the floor , all
nailed with that gun . I found very few situations that I couldn't use it .

A framing nailer to build a fence?


Yes! You do have to shoot nails to attach 2x4 to 4x4 posts.

What would you be thinking?

Screws/lags for rails to posts. Ringshank siding/fencing nails for
slats to rails.


I at one time used deck screws to attach rails to the posts but that was
when I was using a hammer for everything. A friend and I probably
removed and build 20 fences way back when and his framing nailer cut the
work time by 1/2 to 2/3's. This was 3 rail fences Plus a rot board at
the bottom. I will never build another fence with out a rot board. It
is huge time saver and keeps every thing level, providing the rot board
is level. One of us could put 6 nails into a picket almost as fast as
the other one of us could position the next picket and insure it was
plum. Neither of us were ever really waiting on the other to complete
our task.

What's a "rot board"? Just a spacer to keep the picket off the
ground?


Pretty much, I use a 5/4 treated deck board. If it rots it is much
easier and less expensive to replace than 16+ pickets.

I place the rot board on the ground, level, and attach to the front face
of the post. Then the bottom 2x4 rail directly behind between the posts
and 2.5" above the rot board. The rail's bottom is 1" below the top of
the rot board. I put a nail or two through the face of the rot board
into the bottom 2x4 rail to keep them from separating should one want to
bow.
Then a mid 2x4 rail between the posts and a top 2x4 rail on top of the
posts. Pickets stand on the top edge of the rot board.

OK, I was thinking that the "rot board" was just for spacing and
didn't remain part of the fence. I've never seen a fence constructed
as you describe. Makes sense, though. End grain doesn't touch
anything wet. I generally just left the pickets a couple of inches
above the ground (so I could get a weed whacker under them).


Down here humidity is high. It is normal to walk into the yard first
thing in the morning and your feet get wet. Even during a dry month.
The bottoms of the pockets are always against the wet grass every
morning. That is the problem.
The added benefit of this style is that the fence is about 10% taller
for more privacy.
Now the pickets naturally will get wet with a sprinkler or rain but the
bottoms are high enough off the ground that they will quickly dry and
they will not be exposed to wet grass every morning.

See the link of a proposal for a customer. I tapered the top of the end
of the fence to match the height of an existing shorter fence that it
met up with.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 08:53:57 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

I have three framing nailers that I use in rotation, or as needed. Two different model Hitachis, one Bostitch.

All of them shoot from 6d (2") to 12d (3 1/4") by just changing nails. Same magazine.

Most folks have no idea what is available as far as pneumatic nails go, or what nail sizes are at their gun will shoot.

You're right - I didn't know. I just looked mine up (Hitachi NR90AE).
Apparently it'll do 2" to 3-1/2", 21-degree, .113" to .148" nails. I'd
always used nails on the larger end of the range. It looks like it'll
save me the price of a new siding nailer (my eBay special, Senco is
acting up). I may have to hire the job out, though. :-( I can't
postpone it another year with a garage full of siding. Getting old
isn't for sissies.

Nails not commonly available but easily ordered would be nails with certain glues, galvanized or plated, ring shanks, chrome plated, stainless Steel, and any combination.

The ones I need (I think) are on Amazon. Not sure of the length...
https://www.amazon.com/NailPro-Inch-0-113-Stainless-Nailers/dp/B00ANTKZSU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520702519&sr=8-1&keywords=stainless+nails+for+nail+gun+21-degree

g
About ten years ago I put a clay tile roof on a house (tiles about 90 years old, hand thrown) and the screed attachment spec was to use 8d stainless ring shanks nails. Took about 2 weeks to get them, but no problem once ordered.

Thanks to all for educating me!

On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 11:12:33 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/10/2018 10:40 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 09:19:01 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/9/2018 9:48 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 19:20:47 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/9/2018 6:28 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 08:48:11 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/8/2018 9:10 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 8 Mar 2018 20:56:11 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/8/2018 7:52 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 7 Mar 2018 22:20:32 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/7/2018 8:27 PM, Ignoramus20263 wrote:
I do many things, but one of them is I build wooden crates for
machinery. I would like to buy a good "construction stapler" that
shoots 7/16" wide staples, to attach OSB to 2x4s.

Would anyone recommend a stapler that is well made. I heard many
comments that these staplers cheapened out and simply do not last.

Thanks a ;lot

i
* I like the Porter-Cable nail guns I have , also like my H-F framing
nailer - but it's heavy . I don't recall the brand of staplers we used
in the cabinet shops , but they all seemed pretty much the same . As Dan
said , sometimes suppliers will give you guns , but I doubt you'll be
using the kind of volume they want for that .
Not only are the HF framing nailers heavy but they're huge (at least
mine is). It's really hard to maneuver it around and impossible to
get into many places. I used it once, then went out and bought a
Hitachi.

My PC brad, finish, and narrow crown staplers work fine, though.


* I originally bought that nailer to build a fence . That job paid for
it , the rest is gravy - That nail gun has pretty much built this house
we're living in . Framing , sheathing , roof decking , the floor , all
nailed with that gun . I found very few situations that I couldn't use it .

A framing nailer to build a fence?


Yes! You do have to shoot nails to attach 2x4 to 4x4 posts.

What would you be thinking?

Screws/lags for rails to posts. Ringshank siding/fencing nails for
slats to rails.


I at one time used deck screws to attach rails to the posts but that was
when I was using a hammer for everything. A friend and I probably
removed and build 20 fences way back when and his framing nailer cut the
work time by 1/2 to 2/3's. This was 3 rail fences Plus a rot board at
the bottom. I will never build another fence with out a rot board. It
is huge time saver and keeps every thing level, providing the rot board
is level. One of us could put 6 nails into a picket almost as fast as
the other one of us could position the next picket and insure it was
plum. Neither of us were ever really waiting on the other to complete
our task.

What's a "rot board"? Just a spacer to keep the picket off the
ground?


Pretty much, I use a 5/4 treated deck board. If it rots it is much
easier and less expensive to replace than 16+ pickets.

I place the rot board on the ground, level, and attach to the front face
of the post. Then the bottom 2x4 rail directly behind between the posts
and 2.5" above the rot board. The rail's bottom is 1" below the top of
the rot board. I put a nail or two through the face of the rot board
into the bottom 2x4 rail to keep them from separating should one want to
bow.
Then a mid 2x4 rail between the posts and a top 2x4 rail on top of the
posts. Pickets stand on the top edge of the rot board.

OK, I was thinking that the "rot board" was just for spacing and
didn't remain part of the fence. I've never seen a fence constructed
as you describe. Makes sense, though. End grain doesn't touch
anything wet. I generally just left the pickets a couple of inches
above the ground (so I could get a weed whacker under them).


Down here humidity is high. It is normal to walk into the yard first
thing in the morning and your feet get wet. Even during a dry month.
The bottoms of the pockets are always against the wet grass every
morning. That is the problem.
The added benefit of this style is that the fence is about 10% taller
for more privacy.
Now the pickets naturally will get wet with a sprinkler or rain but the
bottoms are high enough off the ground that they will quickly dry and
they will not be exposed to wet grass every morning.

Which is why I keep the pickets high enough off the ground to get a
trimmer underneath them - keep the grass away from the wood.

See the link of a proposal for a customer. I tapered the top of the end
of the fence to match the height of an existing shorter fence that it
met up with.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Yeah, that's what I'd pictured from you description. I've never seen
fence construction like that.

On 3/10/2018 11:39 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 11:12:33 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/10/2018 10:40 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 09:19:01 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/9/2018 9:48 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 19:20:47 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/9/2018 6:28 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 08:48:11 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/8/2018 9:10 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 8 Mar 2018 20:56:11 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/8/2018 7:52 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 7 Mar 2018 22:20:32 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/7/2018 8:27 PM, Ignoramus20263 wrote:
I do many things, but one of them is I build wooden crates for
machinery. I would like to buy a good "construction stapler" that
shoots 7/16" wide staples, to attach OSB to 2x4s.

Would anyone recommend a stapler that is well made. I heard many
comments that these staplers cheapened out and simply do not last.

Thanks a ;lot

i
Â* I like the Porter-Cable nail guns I have , also like my H-F framing
nailer - but it's heavy . I don't recall the brand of staplers we used
in the cabinet shops , but they all seemed pretty much the same . As Dan
said , sometimes suppliers will give you guns , but I doubt you'll be
using the kind of volume they want for that .
Not only are the HF framing nailers heavy but they're huge (at least
mine is). It's really hard to maneuver it around and impossible to
get into many places. I used it once, then went out and bought a
Hitachi.

My PC brad, finish, and narrow crown staplers work fine, though.


Â* I originally bought that nailer to build a fence . That job paid for
it , the rest is gravy - That nail gun has pretty much built this house
we're living in . Framing , sheathing , roof decking , the floor , all
nailed with that gun . I found very few situations that I couldn't use it .

A framing nailer to build a fence?


Yes! You do have to shoot nails to attach 2x4 to 4x4 posts.

What would you be thinking?

Screws/lags for rails to posts. Ringshank siding/fencing nails for
slats to rails.


I at one time used deck screws to attach rails to the posts but that was
when I was using a hammer for everything. A friend and I probably
removed and build 20 fences way back when and his framing nailer cut the
work time by 1/2 to 2/3's. This was 3 rail fences Plus a rot board at
the bottom. I will never build another fence with out a rot board. It
is huge time saver and keeps every thing level, providing the rot board
is level. One of us could put 6 nails into a picket almost as fast as
the other one of us could position the next picket and insure it was
plum. Neither of us were ever really waiting on the other to complete
our task.

What's a "rot board"? Just a spacer to keep the picket off the
ground?


Pretty much, I use a 5/4 treated deck board. If it rots it is much
easier and less expensive to replace than 16+ pickets.

I place the rot board on the ground, level, and attach to the front face
of the post. Then the bottom 2x4 rail directly behind between the posts
and 2.5" above the rot board. The rail's bottom is 1" below the top of
the rot board. I put a nail or two through the face of the rot board
into the bottom 2x4 rail to keep them from separating should one want to
bow.
Then a mid 2x4 rail between the posts and a top 2x4 rail on top of the
posts. Pickets stand on the top edge of the rot board.

OK, I was thinking that the "rot board" was just for spacing and
didn't remain part of the fence. I've never seen a fence constructed
as you describe. Makes sense, though. End grain doesn't touch
anything wet. I generally just left the pickets a couple of inches
above the ground (so I could get a weed whacker under them).


Down here humidity is high. It is normal to walk into the yard first
thing in the morning and your feet get wet. Even during a dry month.
The bottoms of the pockets are always against the wet grass every
morning. That is the problem.
The added benefit of this style is that the fence is about 10% taller
for more privacy.
Now the pickets naturally will get wet with a sprinkler or rain but the
bottoms are high enough off the ground that they will quickly dry and
they will not be exposed to wet grass every morning.

Which is why I keep the pickets high enough off the ground to get a
trimmer underneath them - keep the grass away from the wood.

Yeah, I missed commenting on that. And there is nothing wrong with
doing that. Most people down here want their fences touching the ground
to keep small pets contained. If they can see under the fence the have
a reason to dig under the fence. ;~) And another consideration, here,
we have St. Augustine/carpet grass. It is typically pretty thick and
best kept tall, cut at 3.5+" during the dry months. To keep the picket
off of the wet morning grass so that you could weed eat under the
picket, the picket would have to be pretty high above the actual ground.

AND just a side note about the rot board. The rot board holds up very
well to a weed eater compared to a cedar picket.




See the link of a proposal for a customer. I tapered the top of the end
of the fence to match the height of an existing shorter fence that it
met up with.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Yeah, that's what I'd pictured from you description. I've never seen
fence construction like that.

On 3/10/18 11:39 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 11:12:33 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/10/2018 10:40 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 09:19:01 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/9/2018 9:48 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 19:20:47 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/9/2018 6:28 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 08:48:11 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/8/2018 9:10 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 8 Mar 2018 20:56:11 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/8/2018 7:52 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 7 Mar 2018 22:20:32 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/7/2018 8:27 PM, Ignoramus20263 wrote:
I do many things, but one of them is I build wooden crates for
machinery. I would like to buy a good "construction stapler" that
shoots 7/16" wide staples, to attach OSB to 2x4s.

Would anyone recommend a stapler that is well made. I heard many
comments that these staplers cheapened out and simply do not last.

Thanks a ;lot

i
Â* I like the Porter-Cable nail guns I have , also like my H-F framing
nailer - but it's heavy . I don't recall the brand of staplers we used
in the cabinet shops , but they all seemed pretty much the same . As Dan
said , sometimes suppliers will give you guns , but I doubt you'll be
using the kind of volume they want for that .
Not only are the HF framing nailers heavy but they're huge (at least
mine is). It's really hard to maneuver it around and impossible to
get into many places. I used it once, then went out and bought a
Hitachi.

My PC brad, finish, and narrow crown staplers work fine, though.


Â* I originally bought that nailer to build a fence . That job paid for
it , the rest is gravy - That nail gun has pretty much built this house
we're living in . Framing , sheathing , roof decking , the floor , all
nailed with that gun . I found very few situations that I couldn't use it .

A framing nailer to build a fence?


Yes! You do have to shoot nails to attach 2x4 to 4x4 posts.

What would you be thinking?

Screws/lags for rails to posts. Ringshank siding/fencing nails for
slats to rails.


I at one time used deck screws to attach rails to the posts but that was
when I was using a hammer for everything. A friend and I probably
removed and build 20 fences way back when and his framing nailer cut the
work time by 1/2 to 2/3's. This was 3 rail fences Plus a rot board at
the bottom. I will never build another fence with out a rot board. It
is huge time saver and keeps every thing level, providing the rot board
is level. One of us could put 6 nails into a picket almost as fast as
the other one of us could position the next picket and insure it was
plum. Neither of us were ever really waiting on the other to complete
our task.

What's a "rot board"? Just a spacer to keep the picket off the
ground?


Pretty much, I use a 5/4 treated deck board. If it rots it is much
easier and less expensive to replace than 16+ pickets.

I place the rot board on the ground, level, and attach to the front face
of the post. Then the bottom 2x4 rail directly behind between the posts
and 2.5" above the rot board. The rail's bottom is 1" below the top of
the rot board. I put a nail or two through the face of the rot board
into the bottom 2x4 rail to keep them from separating should one want to
bow.
Then a mid 2x4 rail between the posts and a top 2x4 rail on top of the
posts. Pickets stand on the top edge of the rot board.

OK, I was thinking that the "rot board" was just for spacing and
didn't remain part of the fence. I've never seen a fence constructed
as you describe. Makes sense, though. End grain doesn't touch
anything wet. I generally just left the pickets a couple of inches
above the ground (so I could get a weed whacker under them).


Down here humidity is high. It is normal to walk into the yard first
thing in the morning and your feet get wet. Even during a dry month.
The bottoms of the pockets are always against the wet grass every
morning. That is the problem.
The added benefit of this style is that the fence is about 10% taller
for more privacy.
Now the pickets naturally will get wet with a sprinkler or rain but the
bottoms are high enough off the ground that they will quickly dry and
they will not be exposed to wet grass every morning.

Which is why I keep the pickets high enough off the ground to get a
trimmer underneath them - keep the grass away from the wood.


For some folks, that's too high.
Small pets can get out and small critters can get to their gardens.

But yeah. even the pre-fabbed metal fences leave the pickets a couple
inches off the ground for weed-whacking.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 12:07:44 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/10/2018 11:39 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 11:12:33 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/10/2018 10:40 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 09:19:01 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/9/2018 9:48 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 19:20:47 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/9/2018 6:28 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 08:48:11 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/8/2018 9:10 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 8 Mar 2018 20:56:11 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/8/2018 7:52 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 7 Mar 2018 22:20:32 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/7/2018 8:27 PM, Ignoramus20263 wrote:
I do many things, but one of them is I build wooden crates for
machinery. I would like to buy a good "construction stapler" that
shoots 7/16" wide staples, to attach OSB to 2x4s.

Would anyone recommend a stapler that is well made. I heard many
comments that these staplers cheapened out and simply do not last.

Thanks a ;lot

i
* I like the Porter-Cable nail guns I have , also like my H-F framing
nailer - but it's heavy . I don't recall the brand of staplers we used
in the cabinet shops , but they all seemed pretty much the same . As Dan
said , sometimes suppliers will give you guns , but I doubt you'll be
using the kind of volume they want for that .
Not only are the HF framing nailers heavy but they're huge (at least
mine is). It's really hard to maneuver it around and impossible to
get into many places. I used it once, then went out and bought a
Hitachi.

My PC brad, finish, and narrow crown staplers work fine, though.


* I originally bought that nailer to build a fence . That job paid for
it , the rest is gravy - That nail gun has pretty much built this house
we're living in . Framing , sheathing , roof decking , the floor , all
nailed with that gun . I found very few situations that I couldn't use it .

A framing nailer to build a fence?


Yes! You do have to shoot nails to attach 2x4 to 4x4 posts.

What would you be thinking?

Screws/lags for rails to posts. Ringshank siding/fencing nails for
slats to rails.


I at one time used deck screws to attach rails to the posts but that was
when I was using a hammer for everything. A friend and I probably
removed and build 20 fences way back when and his framing nailer cut the
work time by 1/2 to 2/3's. This was 3 rail fences Plus a rot board at
the bottom. I will never build another fence with out a rot board. It
is huge time saver and keeps every thing level, providing the rot board
is level. One of us could put 6 nails into a picket almost as fast as
the other one of us could position the next picket and insure it was
plum. Neither of us were ever really waiting on the other to complete
our task.

What's a "rot board"? Just a spacer to keep the picket off the
ground?


Pretty much, I use a 5/4 treated deck board. If it rots it is much
easier and less expensive to replace than 16+ pickets.

I place the rot board on the ground, level, and attach to the front face
of the post. Then the bottom 2x4 rail directly behind between the posts
and 2.5" above the rot board. The rail's bottom is 1" below the top of
the rot board. I put a nail or two through the face of the rot board
into the bottom 2x4 rail to keep them from separating should one want to
bow.
Then a mid 2x4 rail between the posts and a top 2x4 rail on top of the
posts. Pickets stand on the top edge of the rot board.

OK, I was thinking that the "rot board" was just for spacing and
didn't remain part of the fence. I've never seen a fence constructed
as you describe. Makes sense, though. End grain doesn't touch
anything wet. I generally just left the pickets a couple of inches
above the ground (so I could get a weed whacker under them).


Down here humidity is high. It is normal to walk into the yard first
thing in the morning and your feet get wet. Even during a dry month.
The bottoms of the pockets are always against the wet grass every
morning. That is the problem.
The added benefit of this style is that the fence is about 10% taller
for more privacy.
Now the pickets naturally will get wet with a sprinkler or rain but the
bottoms are high enough off the ground that they will quickly dry and
they will not be exposed to wet grass every morning.

Which is why I keep the pickets high enough off the ground to get a
trimmer underneath them - keep the grass away from the wood.

Yeah, I missed commenting on that. And there is nothing wrong with
doing that. Most people down here want their fences touching the ground
to keep small pets contained. If they can see under the fence the have
a reason to dig under the fence. ;~) And another consideration, here,
we have St. Augustine/carpet grass. It is typically pretty thick and
best kept tall, cut at 3.5+" during the dry months. To keep the picket
off of the wet morning grass so that you could weed eat under the
picket, the picket would have to be pretty high above the actual ground.

We had Zoysia when we were in Alabama. That stuff is like bamboo. The
fence wasn't to keep critters in (the cats would just go over, anyway
;-).

I don't even put PT next to the ground, if there's any way around it.

AND just a side note about the rot board. The rot board holds up very
well to a weed eater compared to a cedar picket.

But it looks like PT, against the cedar, right?

On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 12:23:58 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 3/10/18 11:39 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 11:12:33 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/10/2018 10:40 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 09:19:01 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/9/2018 9:48 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 19:20:47 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/9/2018 6:28 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 08:48:11 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/8/2018 9:10 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 8 Mar 2018 20:56:11 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/8/2018 7:52 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 7 Mar 2018 22:20:32 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/7/2018 8:27 PM, Ignoramus20263 wrote:
I do many things, but one of them is I build wooden crates for
machinery. I would like to buy a good "construction stapler" that
shoots 7/16" wide staples, to attach OSB to 2x4s.

Would anyone recommend a stapler that is well made. I heard many
comments that these staplers cheapened out and simply do not last.

Thanks a ;lot

i
* I like the Porter-Cable nail guns I have , also like my H-F framing
nailer - but it's heavy . I don't recall the brand of staplers we used
in the cabinet shops , but they all seemed pretty much the same . As Dan
said , sometimes suppliers will give you guns , but I doubt you'll be
using the kind of volume they want for that .
Not only are the HF framing nailers heavy but they're huge (at least
mine is). It's really hard to maneuver it around and impossible to
get into many places. I used it once, then went out and bought a
Hitachi.

My PC brad, finish, and narrow crown staplers work fine, though.


* I originally bought that nailer to build a fence . That job paid for
it , the rest is gravy - That nail gun has pretty much built this house
we're living in . Framing , sheathing , roof decking , the floor , all
nailed with that gun . I found very few situations that I couldn't use it .

A framing nailer to build a fence?


Yes! You do have to shoot nails to attach 2x4 to 4x4 posts.

What would you be thinking?

Screws/lags for rails to posts. Ringshank siding/fencing nails for
slats to rails.


I at one time used deck screws to attach rails to the posts but that was
when I was using a hammer for everything. A friend and I probably
removed and build 20 fences way back when and his framing nailer cut the
work time by 1/2 to 2/3's. This was 3 rail fences Plus a rot board at
the bottom. I will never build another fence with out a rot board. It
is huge time saver and keeps every thing level, providing the rot board
is level. One of us could put 6 nails into a picket almost as fast as
the other one of us could position the next picket and insure it was
plum. Neither of us were ever really waiting on the other to complete
our task.

What's a "rot board"? Just a spacer to keep the picket off the
ground?


Pretty much, I use a 5/4 treated deck board. If it rots it is much
easier and less expensive to replace than 16+ pickets.

I place the rot board on the ground, level, and attach to the front face
of the post. Then the bottom 2x4 rail directly behind between the posts
and 2.5" above the rot board. The rail's bottom is 1" below the top of
the rot board. I put a nail or two through the face of the rot board
into the bottom 2x4 rail to keep them from separating should one want to
bow.
Then a mid 2x4 rail between the posts and a top 2x4 rail on top of the
posts. Pickets stand on the top edge of the rot board.

OK, I was thinking that the "rot board" was just for spacing and
didn't remain part of the fence. I've never seen a fence constructed
as you describe. Makes sense, though. End grain doesn't touch
anything wet. I generally just left the pickets a couple of inches
above the ground (so I could get a weed whacker under them).


Down here humidity is high. It is normal to walk into the yard first
thing in the morning and your feet get wet. Even during a dry month.
The bottoms of the pockets are always against the wet grass every
morning. That is the problem.
The added benefit of this style is that the fence is about 10% taller
for more privacy.
Now the pickets naturally will get wet with a sprinkler or rain but the
bottoms are high enough off the ground that they will quickly dry and
they will not be exposed to wet grass every morning.

Which is why I keep the pickets high enough off the ground to get a
trimmer underneath them - keep the grass away from the wood.


For some folks, that's too high.
Small pets can get out and small critters can get to their gardens.

I've found that keeping little critters (or even quite large critters)
out of gardens is a fool's errand.

But yeah. even the pre-fabbed metal fences leave the pickets a couple
inches off the ground for weed-whacking.

On 3/10/2018 3:55 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 12:07:44 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/10/2018 11:39 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 11:12:33 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/10/2018 10:40 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 09:19:01 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/9/2018 9:48 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 19:20:47 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/9/2018 6:28 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 08:48:11 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/8/2018 9:10 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 8 Mar 2018 20:56:11 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/8/2018 7:52 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 7 Mar 2018 22:20:32 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/7/2018 8:27 PM, Ignoramus20263 wrote:
I do many things, but one of them is I build wooden crates for
machinery. I would like to buy a good "construction stapler" that
shoots 7/16" wide staples, to attach OSB to 2x4s.

Would anyone recommend a stapler that is well made. I heard many
comments that these staplers cheapened out and simply do not last.

Thanks a ;lot

i
Â* I like the Porter-Cable nail guns I have , also like my H-F framing
nailer - but it's heavy . I don't recall the brand of staplers we used
in the cabinet shops , but they all seemed pretty much the same . As Dan
said , sometimes suppliers will give you guns , but I doubt you'll be
using the kind of volume they want for that .
Not only are the HF framing nailers heavy but they're huge (at least
mine is). It's really hard to maneuver it around and impossible to
get into many places. I used it once, then went out and bought a
Hitachi.

My PC brad, finish, and narrow crown staplers work fine, though.


Â* I originally bought that nailer to build a fence . That job paid for
it , the rest is gravy - That nail gun has pretty much built this house
we're living in . Framing , sheathing , roof decking , the floor , all
nailed with that gun . I found very few situations that I couldn't use it .

A framing nailer to build a fence?


Yes! You do have to shoot nails to attach 2x4 to 4x4 posts.

What would you be thinking?

Screws/lags for rails to posts. Ringshank siding/fencing nails for
slats to rails.


I at one time used deck screws to attach rails to the posts but that was
when I was using a hammer for everything. A friend and I probably
removed and build 20 fences way back when and his framing nailer cut the
work time by 1/2 to 2/3's. This was 3 rail fences Plus a rot board at
the bottom. I will never build another fence with out a rot board. It
is huge time saver and keeps every thing level, providing the rot board
is level. One of us could put 6 nails into a picket almost as fast as
the other one of us could position the next picket and insure it was
plum. Neither of us were ever really waiting on the other to complete
our task.

What's a "rot board"? Just a spacer to keep the picket off the
ground?


Pretty much, I use a 5/4 treated deck board. If it rots it is much
easier and less expensive to replace than 16+ pickets.

I place the rot board on the ground, level, and attach to the front face
of the post. Then the bottom 2x4 rail directly behind between the posts
and 2.5" above the rot board. The rail's bottom is 1" below the top of
the rot board. I put a nail or two through the face of the rot board
into the bottom 2x4 rail to keep them from separating should one want to
bow.
Then a mid 2x4 rail between the posts and a top 2x4 rail on top of the
posts. Pickets stand on the top edge of the rot board.

OK, I was thinking that the "rot board" was just for spacing and
didn't remain part of the fence. I've never seen a fence constructed
as you describe. Makes sense, though. End grain doesn't touch
anything wet. I generally just left the pickets a couple of inches
above the ground (so I could get a weed whacker under them).


Down here humidity is high. It is normal to walk into the yard first
thing in the morning and your feet get wet. Even during a dry month.
The bottoms of the pockets are always against the wet grass every
morning. That is the problem.
The added benefit of this style is that the fence is about 10% taller
for more privacy.
Now the pickets naturally will get wet with a sprinkler or rain but the
bottoms are high enough off the ground that they will quickly dry and
they will not be exposed to wet grass every morning.

Which is why I keep the pickets high enough off the ground to get a
trimmer underneath them - keep the grass away from the wood.

Yeah, I missed commenting on that. And there is nothing wrong with
doing that. Most people down here want their fences touching the ground
to keep small pets contained. If they can see under the fence the have
a reason to dig under the fence. ;~) And another consideration, here,
we have St. Augustine/carpet grass. It is typically pretty thick and
best kept tall, cut at 3.5+" during the dry months. To keep the picket
off of the wet morning grass so that you could weed eat under the
picket, the picket would have to be pretty high above the actual ground.

We had Zoysia when we were in Alabama. That stuff is like bamboo. The
fence wasn't to keep critters in (the cats would just go over, anyway
;-).

I don't even put PT next to the ground, if there's any way around it.

AND just a side note about the rot board. The rot board holds up very
well to a weed eater compared to a cedar picket.

But it looks like PT, against the cedar, right?


Yes sorry, PT everything except the pickets. I hate PT pickets, they
are hard to find dry and bow like crazy. The cedar pickets tend to hold
up much better, and look better.

On Saturday, March 10, 2018 at 12:39:16 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 11:12:33 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/10/2018 10:40 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 09:19:01 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/9/2018 9:48 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 19:20:47 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/9/2018 6:28 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 08:48:11 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/8/2018 9:10 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 8 Mar 2018 20:56:11 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/8/2018 7:52 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 7 Mar 2018 22:20:32 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/7/2018 8:27 PM, Ignoramus20263 wrote:
I do many things, but one of them is I build wooden crates for
machinery. I would like to buy a good "construction stapler" that
shoots 7/16" wide staples, to attach OSB to 2x4s.

Would anyone recommend a stapler that is well made. I heard many
comments that these staplers cheapened out and simply do not last.

Thanks a ;lot

i
Â* I like the Porter-Cable nail guns I have , also like my H-F framing
nailer - but it's heavy . I don't recall the brand of staplers we used
in the cabinet shops , but they all seemed pretty much the same . As Dan
said , sometimes suppliers will give you guns , but I doubt you'll be
using the kind of volume they want for that .
Not only are the HF framing nailers heavy but they're huge (at least
mine is). It's really hard to maneuver it around and impossible to
get into many places. I used it once, then went out and bought a
Hitachi.

My PC brad, finish, and narrow crown staplers work fine, though.


Â* I originally bought that nailer to build a fence . That job paid for
it , the rest is gravy - That nail gun has pretty much built this house
we're living in . Framing , sheathing , roof decking , the floor , all
nailed with that gun . I found very few situations that I couldn't use it .

A framing nailer to build a fence?


Yes! You do have to shoot nails to attach 2x4 to 4x4 posts.

What would you be thinking?

Screws/lags for rails to posts. Ringshank siding/fencing nails for
slats to rails.


I at one time used deck screws to attach rails to the posts but that was
when I was using a hammer for everything. A friend and I probably
removed and build 20 fences way back when and his framing nailer cut the
work time by 1/2 to 2/3's. This was 3 rail fences Plus a rot board at
the bottom. I will never build another fence with out a rot board. It
is huge time saver and keeps every thing level, providing the rot board
is level. One of us could put 6 nails into a picket almost as fast as
the other one of us could position the next picket and insure it was
plum. Neither of us were ever really waiting on the other to complete
our task.

What's a "rot board"? Just a spacer to keep the picket off the
ground?


Pretty much, I use a 5/4 treated deck board. If it rots it is much
easier and less expensive to replace than 16+ pickets.

I place the rot board on the ground, level, and attach to the front face
of the post. Then the bottom 2x4 rail directly behind between the posts
and 2.5" above the rot board. The rail's bottom is 1" below the top of
the rot board. I put a nail or two through the face of the rot board
into the bottom 2x4 rail to keep them from separating should one want to
bow.
Then a mid 2x4 rail between the posts and a top 2x4 rail on top of the
posts. Pickets stand on the top edge of the rot board.

OK, I was thinking that the "rot board" was just for spacing and
didn't remain part of the fence. I've never seen a fence constructed
as you describe. Makes sense, though. End grain doesn't touch
anything wet. I generally just left the pickets a couple of inches
above the ground (so I could get a weed whacker under them).


Down here humidity is high. It is normal to walk into the yard first
thing in the morning and your feet get wet. Even during a dry month.
The bottoms of the pockets are always against the wet grass every
morning. That is the problem.
The added benefit of this style is that the fence is about 10% taller
for more privacy.
Now the pickets naturally will get wet with a sprinkler or rain but the
bottoms are high enough off the ground that they will quickly dry and
they will not be exposed to wet grass every morning.

Which is why I keep the pickets high enough off the ground to get a
trimmer underneath them - keep the grass away from the wood.

See the link of a proposal for a customer. I tapered the top of the end
of the fence to match the height of an existing shorter fence that it
met up with.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

Yeah, that's what I'd pictured from you description. I've never seen
fence construction like that.

Me either. I'm mostly familiar with the northeast, New England parts of the country. Never heard
of a rot board before.

Damn, now I gotta keep looking for one. Thanks a lot! ;-)

writes:

Sounds like huge overkill. I have a siding/fencing nailer for such
and use stainless ringshank nails. Are ringshanks available for
framing nailers?

I shoot 8p ring-shanks in my PC framer when laying subfloor.

On Wed, 07 Mar 2018 20:27:48 -0600, Ignoramus20263
wrote:

I do many things, but one of them is I build wooden crates for
machinery. I would like to buy a good "construction stapler" that
shoots 7/16" wide staples, to attach OSB to 2x4s.

Would anyone recommend a stapler that is well made. I heard many
comments that these staplers cheapened out and simply do not last.

Thanks a ;lot

i

Used to be pretty good stuff. No idea about now. I have a few Senco
staplers that work pretty well.

http://www.senco.com/


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On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 19:20:47 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/9/2018 6:28 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 08:48:11 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/8/2018 9:10 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 8 Mar 2018 20:56:11 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/8/2018 7:52 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 7 Mar 2018 22:20:32 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/7/2018 8:27 PM, Ignoramus20263 wrote:
I do many things, but one of them is I build wooden crates for
machinery. I would like to buy a good "construction stapler" that
shoots 7/16" wide staples, to attach OSB to 2x4s.

Would anyone recommend a stapler that is well made. I heard many
comments that these staplers cheapened out and simply do not last.

Thanks a ;lot

i
* I like the Porter-Cable nail guns I have , also like my H-F framing
nailer - but it's heavy . I don't recall the brand of staplers we used
in the cabinet shops , but they all seemed pretty much the same . As Dan
said , sometimes suppliers will give you guns , but I doubt you'll be
using the kind of volume they want for that .
Not only are the HF framing nailers heavy but they're huge (at least
mine is). It's really hard to maneuver it around and impossible to
get into many places. I used it once, then went out and bought a
Hitachi.

My PC brad, finish, and narrow crown staplers work fine, though.


* I originally bought that nailer to build a fence . That job paid for
it , the rest is gravy - That nail gun has pretty much built this house
we're living in . Framing , sheathing , roof decking , the floor , all
nailed with that gun . I found very few situations that I couldn't use it .

A framing nailer to build a fence?


Yes! You do have to shoot nails to attach 2x4 to 4x4 posts.

What would you be thinking?

Screws/lags for rails to posts. Ringshank siding/fencing nails for
slats to rails.


I at one time used deck screws to attach rails to the posts but that was
when I was using a hammer for everything. A friend and I probably
removed and build 20 fences way back when and his framing nailer cut the
work time by 1/2 to 2/3's. This was 3 rail fences Plus a rot board at
the bottom. I will never build another fence with out a rot board. It
is huge time saver and keeps every thing level, providing the rot board
is level. One of us could put 6 nails into a picket almost as fast as
the other one of us could position the next picket and insure it was
plum. Neither of us were ever really waiting on the other to complete
our task.

Whats a "rot board"?

Inquiring minds want to know.


---
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https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Fri, 09 Mar 2018 22:48:22 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 19:20:47 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/9/2018 6:28 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 08:48:11 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/8/2018 9:10 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 8 Mar 2018 20:56:11 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/8/2018 7:52 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 7 Mar 2018 22:20:32 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/7/2018 8:27 PM, Ignoramus20263 wrote:
I do many things, but one of them is I build wooden crates for
machinery. I would like to buy a good "construction stapler" that
shoots 7/16" wide staples, to attach OSB to 2x4s.

Would anyone recommend a stapler that is well made. I heard many
comments that these staplers cheapened out and simply do not last.

Thanks a ;lot

i
* I like the Porter-Cable nail guns I have , also like my H-F framing
nailer - but it's heavy . I don't recall the brand of staplers we used
in the cabinet shops , but they all seemed pretty much the same . As Dan
said , sometimes suppliers will give you guns , but I doubt you'll be
using the kind of volume they want for that .
Not only are the HF framing nailers heavy but they're huge (at least
mine is). It's really hard to maneuver it around and impossible to
get into many places. I used it once, then went out and bought a
Hitachi.

My PC brad, finish, and narrow crown staplers work fine, though.


* I originally bought that nailer to build a fence . That job paid for
it , the rest is gravy - That nail gun has pretty much built this house
we're living in . Framing , sheathing , roof decking , the floor , all
nailed with that gun . I found very few situations that I couldn't use it .

A framing nailer to build a fence?


Yes! You do have to shoot nails to attach 2x4 to 4x4 posts.

What would you be thinking?

Screws/lags for rails to posts. Ringshank siding/fencing nails for
slats to rails.


I at one time used deck screws to attach rails to the posts but that was
when I was using a hammer for everything. A friend and I probably
removed and build 20 fences way back when and his framing nailer cut the
work time by 1/2 to 2/3's. This was 3 rail fences Plus a rot board at
the bottom. I will never build another fence with out a rot board. It
is huge time saver and keeps every thing level, providing the rot board
is level. One of us could put 6 nails into a picket almost as fast as
the other one of us could position the next picket and insure it was
plum. Neither of us were ever really waiting on the other to complete
our task.

What's a "rot board"? Just a spacer to keep the picket off the
ground?

Damn that was a quick answer! Thanks!!!

(Grin)


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On Saturday, March 17, 2018 at 10:23:57 PM UTC-4, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 09 Mar 2018 22:48:22 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 19:20:47 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/9/2018 6:28 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 08:48:11 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/8/2018 9:10 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 8 Mar 2018 20:56:11 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/8/2018 7:52 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 7 Mar 2018 22:20:32 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/7/2018 8:27 PM, Ignoramus20263 wrote:
I do many things, but one of them is I build wooden crates for
machinery. I would like to buy a good "construction stapler" that
shoots 7/16" wide staples, to attach OSB to 2x4s.

Would anyone recommend a stapler that is well made. I heard many
comments that these staplers cheapened out and simply do not last.

Thanks a ;lot

i
Â* I like the Porter-Cable nail guns I have , also like my H-F framing
nailer - but it's heavy . I don't recall the brand of staplers we used
in the cabinet shops , but they all seemed pretty much the same .. As Dan
said , sometimes suppliers will give you guns , but I doubt you'll be
using the kind of volume they want for that .
Not only are the HF framing nailers heavy but they're huge (at least
mine is). It's really hard to maneuver it around and impossible to
get into many places. I used it once, then went out and bought a
Hitachi.

My PC brad, finish, and narrow crown staplers work fine, though.


Â* I originally bought that nailer to build a fence . That job paid for
it , the rest is gravy - That nail gun has pretty much built this house
we're living in . Framing , sheathing , roof decking , the floor , all
nailed with that gun . I found very few situations that I couldn't use it .

A framing nailer to build a fence?


Yes! You do have to shoot nails to attach 2x4 to 4x4 posts.

What would you be thinking?

Screws/lags for rails to posts. Ringshank siding/fencing nails for
slats to rails.


I at one time used deck screws to attach rails to the posts but that was
when I was using a hammer for everything. A friend and I probably
removed and build 20 fences way back when and his framing nailer cut the
work time by 1/2 to 2/3's. This was 3 rail fences Plus a rot board at
the bottom. I will never build another fence with out a rot board. It
is huge time saver and keeps every thing level, providing the rot board
is level. One of us could put 6 nails into a picket almost as fast as
the other one of us could position the next picket and insure it was
plum. Neither of us were ever really waiting on the other to complete
our task.

What's a "rot board"? Just a spacer to keep the picket off the
ground?

Damn that was a quick answer! Thanks!!!

(Grin)



I don't know where you live, but you're at least the 3rd person, myself including, that never
heard of a rot board. I live where it rains and snows and have seen lots of wooden fences.
Even put one around my yard many years ago.

Never heard of a rot board until it was mentioned in this thread.

On 3/17/2018 10:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

What's a "rot board"? Just a spacer to keep the picket off the
ground?

Damn that was a quick answer! Thanks!!!

(Grin)



I don't know where you live, but you're at least the 3rd person, myself including, that never
heard of a rot board. I live where it rains and snows and have seen lots of wooden fences.
Even put one around my yard many years ago.

Never heard of a rot board until it was mentioned in this thread.


Google, fence rot board and click on images. It is the bottom
horizontal board under the pickets.

On Sunday, March 18, 2018 at 1:47:19 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/17/2018 10:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

What's a "rot board"? Just a spacer to keep the picket off the
ground?

Damn that was a quick answer! Thanks!!!

(Grin)



I don't know where you live, but you're at least the 3rd person, myself including, that never
heard of a rot board. I live where it rains and snows and have seen lots of wooden fences.
Even put one around my yard many years ago.

Never heard of a rot board until it was mentioned in this thread.


Google, fence rot board and click on images. It is the bottom
horizontal board under the pickets.

I did that a while back, barely seconds after it was first mentioned in this
thread. I was wondering if it was perhaps a localized name for some part of
a fence that I was already familiar with. That was not the case.

When as I saw what it was (and what I actually expected it to be, just
going by the name) I said to myself, "Self, that's not something they do
around my area of the country, at least not to my knowledge."

As soon as the snow melts and I can actually see the bottom of people's
fences, I'll see if maybe it's something I just never noticed or noticed
and never thought about. If I have seen them before, I probably just
thought they were a design feature and never assigned any purpose to them.

On 3/18/2018 1:20 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, March 18, 2018 at 1:47:19 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/17/2018 10:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

What's a "rot board"? Just a spacer to keep the picket off the
ground?

Damn that was a quick answer! Thanks!!!

(Grin)



I don't know where you live, but you're at least the 3rd person, myself including, that never
heard of a rot board. I live where it rains and snows and have seen lots of wooden fences.
Even put one around my yard many years ago.

Never heard of a rot board until it was mentioned in this thread.


Google, fence rot board and click on images. It is the bottom
horizontal board under the pickets.

I did that a while back, barely seconds after it was first mentioned in this
thread. I was wondering if it was perhaps a localized name for some part of
a fence that I was already familiar with. That was not the case.

When as I saw what it was (and what I actually expected it to be, just
going by the name) I said to myself, "Self, that's not something they do
around my area of the country, at least not to my knowledge."

As soon as the snow melts and I can actually see the bottom of people's
fences, I'll see if maybe it's something I just never noticed or noticed
and never thought about. If I have seen them before, I probably just
thought they were a design feature and never assigned any purpose to them.


Well it is kinda new down here, I do not recall seeing a rot board
before the 90's. Our grass down here easily grows 2~3" taller than the
bottom of the fence and humidity in the mornings is typically 90% so dew
is ever present at sun up. The bottoms of the fences rot quickly, as
cedar pickets aint what they used to be.