Poplar
 

More expensive than I expected.

Poplar
 

On Fri, 23 Feb 2018 16:43:39 -0800 (PST), Michael
wrote:

More expensive than I expected.

Less so than most hardwood. That's why it's poplar.

Poplar
 

On Friday, February 23, 2018 at 7:51:02 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 23 Feb 2018 16:43:39 -0800 (PST), Michael
wrote:

More expensive than I expected.

Less so than most hardwood. That's why it's poplar.

Groan

Poplar
 

On Friday, February 23, 2018 at 7:43:52 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
More expensive than I expected.

What are you using it for?

Some lumber yards sell finger jointed poplar which is much cheaper, but still
poplar, so it takes paint very well. The 1 x 6's I recently bought were truly
finger jointed (finger joints seen on the edges, cross-wise glue joints on the
face. The 1 x 8's were edge glued boards, made up of 1" - 2" strips, i.e.
glue joints running the length of the boards. It was all classified as finger
jointed in their system, as opposed to "clear poplar".

I found that when gluing up some panels with the 1 x 8's, my glue joints
were stronger than the factory glue joints.

Poplar
 

On Friday, February 23, 2018 at 7:52:27 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 23, 2018 at 7:43:52 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
More expensive than I expected.

What are you using it for?

Some lumber yards sell finger jointed poplar which is much cheaper, but still
poplar, so it takes paint very well. The 1 x 6's I recently bought were truly
finger jointed (finger joints seen on the edges, cross-wise glue joints on the
face. The 1 x 8's were edge glued boards, made up of 1" - 2" strips, i.e.
glue joints running the length of the boards. It was all classified as finger
jointed in their system, as opposed to "clear poplar".

I found that when gluing up some panels with the 1 x 8's, my glue joints
were stronger than the factory glue joints.

I'll definitely remember that next time. If I had more lead time, I would have made a trip to the lumber mill and bought it rough. I am making a frame for a painting. The artist wants to paint it too.

Poplar
 

Used in trim and special areas. Easy to paint. No sap. Pine is bad
for this.
I used some in cabinets.

Martin

On 2/23/2018 7:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 23, 2018 at 7:43:52 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
More expensive than I expected.

What are you using it for?

Some lumber yards sell finger jointed poplar which is much cheaper, but still
poplar, so it takes paint very well. The 1 x 6's I recently bought were truly
finger jointed (finger joints seen on the edges, cross-wise glue joints on the
face. The 1 x 8's were edge glued boards, made up of 1" - 2" strips, i.e.
glue joints running the length of the boards. It was all classified as finger
jointed in their system, as opposed to "clear poplar".

I found that when gluing up some panels with the 1 x 8's, my glue joints
were stronger than the factory glue joints.

Poplar
 

On Friday, February 23, 2018 at 11:42:24 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
On Friday, February 23, 2018 at 7:52:27 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 23, 2018 at 7:43:52 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
More expensive than I expected.

What are you using it for?

Some lumber yards sell finger jointed poplar which is much cheaper, but still
poplar, so it takes paint very well. The 1 x 6's I recently bought were truly
finger jointed (finger joints seen on the edges, cross-wise glue joints on the
face. The 1 x 8's were edge glued boards, made up of 1" - 2" strips, i.e.
glue joints running the length of the boards. It was all classified as finger
jointed in their system, as opposed to "clear poplar".

I found that when gluing up some panels with the 1 x 8's, my glue joints
were stronger than the factory glue joints.

I'll definitely remember that next time. If I had more lead time, I would
have made a trip to the lumber mill and bought it rough. I am making a frame
for a painting. The artist wants to paint it too.

Just to be clear...

Finger jointed (or edge glued) poplar is not rough. It's S4S just like the
clear Poplar. At least stuff I can get is. I just used some for the face
frames and doors of 2 base cabinets.

One caution: Be aware of where the glue joints are. I ripped a piece of
the edge glued poplar down for a door style. I then cut the grove for the
panel. After I assembled the door I realize that the groove ended right
at a glue joint so there was no longer any support under it. The glue
joint split open. I injected some glue in the split and used some thin
strips of - wait for it - Poplar as "horizontal spring clamps" while the
glue dried. If you zoom on the outlined area, you can sort of tell where
I glued the glue joint back together.

https://i.imgur.com/6X3Q1Fw.jpg?1

Poplar
 

"Michael" wrote in message
...
More expensive than I expected.

Cost depends upon grade, where and how much you buy. Select around $1.80,
#1 common around $1.30/

Poplar
 

On 2/23/2018 10:42 PM, Michael wrote:
On Friday, February 23, 2018 at 7:52:27 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 23, 2018 at 7:43:52 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
More expensive than I expected.

What are you using it for?

Some lumber yards sell finger jointed poplar which is much cheaper, but still
poplar, so it takes paint very well. The 1 x 6's I recently bought were truly
finger jointed (finger joints seen on the edges, cross-wise glue joints on the
face. The 1 x 8's were edge glued boards, made up of 1" - 2" strips, i.e.
glue joints running the length of the boards. It was all classified as finger
jointed in their system, as opposed to "clear poplar".

I found that when gluing up some panels with the 1 x 8's, my glue joints
were stronger than the factory glue joints.

I'll definitely remember that next time. If I had more lead time, I would have made a trip to the lumber mill and bought it rough. I am making a frame for a painting. The artist wants to paint it too.



For a while I used to buy rough cut lumber and even S2S. Now days my
time is worth much more than the cost to take odd sized lumber and make
it usable, especially when I am selling my work. I am not going to
charge a customer the cost for "me" to mill the lumber when the cost of
S4S is a fraction more in cost.

Getting uniform sized S4S is also a big time saver when planning how
much to buy and how to cut it.

As your have found out, your mistake was not getting the cost of
materials before quoting a price.

Poplar
 

On Saturday, February 24, 2018 at 11:23:17 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 2/23/2018 10:42 PM, Michael wrote:
On Friday, February 23, 2018 at 7:52:27 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 23, 2018 at 7:43:52 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
More expensive than I expected.

What are you using it for?

Some lumber yards sell finger jointed poplar which is much cheaper, but still
poplar, so it takes paint very well. The 1 x 6's I recently bought were truly
finger jointed (finger joints seen on the edges, cross-wise glue joints on the
face. The 1 x 8's were edge glued boards, made up of 1" - 2" strips, i.e.
glue joints running the length of the boards. It was all classified as finger
jointed in their system, as opposed to "clear poplar".

I found that when gluing up some panels with the 1 x 8's, my glue joints
were stronger than the factory glue joints.

I'll definitely remember that next time. If I had more lead time, I would have made a trip to the lumber mill and bought it rough. I am making a frame for a painting. The artist wants to paint it too.



For a while I used to buy rough cut lumber and even S2S. Now days my
time is worth much more than the cost to take odd sized lumber and make
it usable, especially when I am selling my work. I am not going to
charge a customer the cost for "me" to mill the lumber when the cost of
S4S is a fraction more in cost.

Getting uniform sized S4S is also a big time saver when planning how
much to buy and how to cut it.

As your have found out, your mistake was not getting the cost of
materials before quoting a price.

Family member, free of charge.

Poplar
 

On Saturday, February 24, 2018 at 6:17:02 AM UTC-6, dadiOH wrote:
"Michael" wrote in message
...
More expensive than I expected.

Cost depends upon grade, where and how much you buy. Select around $1.80,
#1 common around $1.30/

It was by linear board foot but ballpark much closer to $1.80. It all worked out but I'll know to buy rough next time. Thanks.

Poplar
 

On Saturday, February 24, 2018 at 2:13:38 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
On Saturday, February 24, 2018 at 6:17:02 AM UTC-6, dadiOH wrote:
"Michael" wrote in message
...
More expensive than I expected.

Cost depends upon grade, where and how much you buy. Select around $1.80,
#1 common around $1.30/

It was by linear board foot but ballpark much closer to $1.80. It all worked out but I'll know to buy rough next time. Thanks.

What is your definition of "rough" in this specific case? i.e. If you
were to make these frames again, what exactly would you buy?

Poplar
 

On 2/24/2018 1:08 PM, Michael wrote:
On Saturday, February 24, 2018 at 11:23:17 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 2/23/2018 10:42 PM, Michael wrote:
On Friday, February 23, 2018 at 7:52:27 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 23, 2018 at 7:43:52 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
More expensive than I expected.

What are you using it for?

Some lumber yards sell finger jointed poplar which is much cheaper, but still
poplar, so it takes paint very well. The 1 x 6's I recently bought were truly
finger jointed (finger joints seen on the edges, cross-wise glue joints on the
face. The 1 x 8's were edge glued boards, made up of 1" - 2" strips, i.e.
glue joints running the length of the boards. It was all classified as finger
jointed in their system, as opposed to "clear poplar".

I found that when gluing up some panels with the 1 x 8's, my glue joints
were stronger than the factory glue joints.

I'll definitely remember that next time. If I had more lead time, I would have made a trip to the lumber mill and bought it rough. I am making a frame for a painting. The artist wants to paint it too.



For a while I used to buy rough cut lumber and even S2S. Now days my
time is worth much more than the cost to take odd sized lumber and make
it usable, especially when I am selling my work. I am not going to
charge a customer the cost for "me" to mill the lumber when the cost of
S4S is a fraction more in cost.

Getting uniform sized S4S is also a big time saver when planning how
much to buy and how to cut it.

As your have found out, your mistake was not getting the cost of
materials before quoting a price.

Family member, free of charge.

Sounded like a customer. ;~) That changes everything. LOL

Poplar
 

On Saturday, February 24, 2018 at 1:56:04 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, February 24, 2018 at 2:13:38 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
On Saturday, February 24, 2018 at 6:17:02 AM UTC-6, dadiOH wrote:
"Michael" wrote in message
...
More expensive than I expected.

Cost depends upon grade, where and how much you buy. Select around $1.80,
#1 common around $1.30/

It was by linear board foot but ballpark much closer to $1.80. It all worked out but I'll know to buy rough next time. Thanks.

What is your definition of "rough" in this specific case? i.e. If you
were to make these frames again, what exactly would you buy?

At the sawmill, unplaned. I just check the prices. 8/4 poplar is $2.63 bf.

Poplar
 

On Fri, 23 Feb 2018 16:43:39 -0800 (PST), Michael
wrote:

More expensive than I expected.


Years ago I bought some freshly sawn poplar to use as batten strips. I asked
the sawyer, jokingly, how long I needed to dry it before using it. He looked up
in the air, thought a second, and said to just lean it up against the house
until tomorrow. He said poplar was open grain and the water would run right out
the bottom.

I figured he was pulling my leg, so went home and unloaded, but did lean a few
boards up against the house while I went to lunch. A couple hours later I came
out and there were puddles under each board. I leaned all the rest of the stack
up against the house, and handled some nice light boards a day or two later. 35
years later I was back to visit the old house, and the battens were still in
place. I didn't think poplar would weather that well, but it did.

Poplar
 

On 2/24/2018 4:05 PM, Michael wrote:
....


At the sawmill, unplaned. I just check the prices. 8/4 poplar is $2.63 bf.

That's likely green, too...altho, "Oh! to have a sawmill within 300 mi
again!"

--

Poplar
 

On Sun, 25 Feb 2018 16:16:42 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 2/24/2018 4:05 PM, Michael wrote:
...


At the sawmill, unplaned. I just check the prices. 8/4 poplar is $2.63 bf.

That's likely green, too...altho, "Oh! to have a sawmill within 300 mi
again!"

I was just at the Borg today and happened to see the Poplar rack. It's
about $5/bf. It didn't look much like black walnut, either.

Poplar
 

On Sunday, February 25, 2018 at 4:16:48 PM UTC-6, dpb wrote:
On 2/24/2018 4:05 PM, Michael wrote:
...


At the sawmill, unplaned. I just check the prices. 8/4 poplar is $2.63 bf.

That's likely green, too...altho, "Oh! to have a sawmill within 300 mi
again!"

--

It's kiln dried at that saw mill. If I think if it, I'll check it with a moisture meter. It's 36 miles away.