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#41
Posted to rec.woodworking
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your oldest power tool
On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 4:13:59 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/21/2018 12:48 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 1:34:30 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote: On 1/20/2018 11:39 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote: Good one Leon - My dad also worked for Western Electric and Bell Labs.Â* He started in the 20's in a vacuum tube plant in Chicago.Â*Â* I have his Iron some hand tools and tool pouch. Actually I may have a pair of Western Electric side cutter and long nose pliers. AKA diagonal and needle nose. How long of a cord do they have? ;-) I know you are kidding... But the Western Electric soldering iron probably has a cord that is 20' long IIRC. I recall it being very long. Many of us have a problem judging length. ;-) |
#42
Posted to rec.woodworking
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your oldest power tool
On 1/21/2018 11:54 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
.... No rush, and now that I think of it they might have used helical gears. I can cut a spur gear without much trouble, but helical is another story. I'm not going to be able to cut a helical gear with my current set up. I wonder if I could cut a form into a piece of O1, then use that like a milling cutter with a rotary table to make the helical gear? Obviously I can't promise anything, especially if they're helical gears. Puckdropper That's good there's no rush since it's probably been nearly 15 years since I've had one functional. I did buy one off eBay a few years ago that is still functional but it has some motor "issues" -- it runs, but not well and I've not taken the time to delve into it much. There's one w/ the cover off been sitting on a bench for years in one of the garages--I glanced at it today and it is indeed the rotor end that's the most worn of all; does look like it's straight gear but it's milled directly in the rotor shaft; not tied onto the end. Not sure if doing anything with that would be feasible unless could fill in the missing metal and recut... That one was never finished tear-down; still grease-covered (with a lot of accumulated dirt/sawdust since ) so I'll have to clean it up or get one of the other sets of parts to make pictures of and take some measurements. I have a Makita that is about closest there is on market to match but they took a 4" machine and just put 3" rollers on it so it's too wide for the belt and unbalanced left-right because weight isn't centered over the belt. The little 3-wheeler looks kinda' cute and might be nice, but they're just 3x21 so all the 24" belt stock is useless... I've requested numerous times B&D bring the 7440 back with a little better gearing, but never got anywhere obviously. -- |
#43
Posted to rec.woodworking
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your oldest power tool
dpb wrote in news
On 1/21/2018 11:54 AM, Puckdropper wrote: ... No rush, and now that I think of it they might have used helical gears. I can cut a spur gear without much trouble, but helical is another story. I'm not going to be able to cut a helical gear with my current set up. I wonder if I could cut a form into a piece of O1, then use that like a milling cutter with a rotary table to make the helical gear? Obviously I can't promise anything, especially if they're helical gears. Puckdropper That's good there's no rush since it's probably been nearly 15 years since I've had one functional. I did buy one off eBay a few years ago that is still functional but it has some motor "issues" -- it runs, but not well and I've not taken the time to delve into it much. There's one w/ the cover off been sitting on a bench for years in one of the garages--I glanced at it today and it is indeed the rotor end that's the most worn of all; does look like it's straight gear but it's milled directly in the rotor shaft; not tied onto the end. Not sure if doing anything with that would be feasible unless could fill in the missing metal and recut... That one was never finished tear-down; still grease-covered (with a lot of accumulated dirt/sawdust since ) so I'll have to clean it up or get one of the other sets of parts to make pictures of and take some measurements. I have a Makita that is about closest there is on market to match but they took a 4" machine and just put 3" rollers on it so it's too wide for the belt and unbalanced left-right because weight isn't centered over the belt. The little 3-wheeler looks kinda' cute and might be nice, but they're just 3x21 so all the 24" belt stock is useless... I've requested numerous times B&D bring the 7440 back with a little better gearing, but never got anywhere obviously. Regarding the motor gear: the other option you have is to grind off the gear teeth and start with a smooth shaft. It'd be much easier to cut a gear with that bore than it would to cut a gear on that shaft. Especially if we're talking about filling in new metal, where there's very little chance of things being a consistent hardness. Puckdropper -- http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst! |
#44
Posted to rec.woodworking
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your oldest power tool
On 1/22/2018 1:07 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
....[snip for brevity]... dpb Regarding the motor gear: the other option you have is to grind off the gear teeth and start with a smooth shaft. It'd be much easier to cut a gear with that bore than it would to cut a gear on that shaft. Especially if we're talking about filling in new metal, where there's very little chance of things being a consistent hardness. Puckdropper Indeed; it would be teeny to cut all the teeth down but to make concentric and round wouldn't be too hard. Oh, but then there would be very little room left between new ID and existing OD to match existing size to match up with the driven...but, I suppose, still at least in realm of possible... -- |
#45
Posted to rec.woodworking
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your oldest power tool
On Mon, 22 Jan 2018 08:06:29 -0600, dpb wrote:
On 1/22/2018 1:07 AM, Puckdropper wrote: ...[snip for brevity]... dpb Regarding the motor gear: the other option you have is to grind off the gear teeth and start with a smooth shaft. It'd be much easier to cut a gear with that bore than it would to cut a gear on that shaft. Especially if we're talking about filling in new metal, where there's very little chance of things being a consistent hardness. Puckdropper Indeed; it would be teeny to cut all the teeth down but to make concentric and round wouldn't be too hard. Oh, but then there would be very little room left between new ID and existing OD to match existing size to match up with the driven...but, I suppose, still at least in realm of possible... How about pressing out the existing shaft and replacing with a new one?? |
#46
Posted to rec.woodworking
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your oldest power tool
On 1/22/2018 10:43 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 22 Jan 2018 08:06:29 -0600, dpb wrote: On 1/22/2018 1:07 AM, Puckdropper wrote: ...[snip for brevity]... dpb Regarding the motor gear: the other option you have is to grind off the gear teeth and start with a smooth shaft. It'd be much easier to cut a gear with that bore than it would to cut a gear on that shaft. Especially if we're talking about filling in new metal, where there's very little chance of things being a consistent hardness. Puckdropper Indeed; it would be teeny to cut all the teeth down but to make concentric and round wouldn't be too hard. Oh, but then there would be very little room left between new ID and existing OD to match existing size to match up with the driven...but, I suppose, still at least in realm of possible... How about pressing out the existing shaft and replacing with a new one?? I'd guess that not possible from the rotor that I suspect the windings and all are such that wouldn't be able to get the shaft out without destroying it...but, I can look at how it's assembled. -- |
#47
Posted to rec.woodworking
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your oldest power tool
On 1/22/2018 10:43 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
.... How about pressing out the existing shaft and replacing with a new one?? 'membered model number off by a digit -- it's 7450 instead 7440. Here's bestest schematic found...gives an idea how it's built; the rotor 19 and gears 16,18 are the weak links; 5 and 10 never show any significant wear at all... https://www.toolpartsdirect.com/blackdecker-7450-type-2-belt-sander-115v.html -- |
#48
Posted to rec.woodworking
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your oldest power tool
On 1/18/2018 1:01 PM, Electric Comet wrote: mine is a skil saw from the 70s i think seems to run fine am curious because i wonder if they can become unsafe to use in the electrical sense and what to do besides replacemnt guessing that replacement parts might be hard to come by I don't know. Maybe an old Skill jig saw I picked up as a toss in to sweeten the deal on a grinder and drill press private purchase. My tools have always been used hard. Most of the stuff I bought my first few years as a contractor has been worn out and tossed. Sure I could have fixed some of it, but it wasn't worth the time. Even the good stuff. My time was more valuable getting jobs done for customers. Now I'd fix it because I spend a lot of time watching CNC mills and routers do my job for me. Nah, not really. If I am not programming, I am designing. If I am not designing I am fixing a machine. If I'm not fixing a machine I'm doing some off the machines fabrication or doing some manual machining. Now, when it comes to hand tools and machinist tools I have some old stuff. I've got a few precision measuring instruments and misc tools that might date back to the late 1800s. Certainly WW1 era. Some of them I still use. No bull. |
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