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Default notation for plank

What's the notation for a piece of wood, say
pine? Is this fine 3.5x9.5x120cm or is there
some different convention?

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Emanuel Berg wrote:
What's the notation for a piece of wood, say
pine? Is this fine 3.5x9.5x120cm or is there
some different convention?


Is that actual or nominal size? If you are not sure, do an Internet search.
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Emanuel Berg wrote in :

What's the notation for a piece of wood, say
pine? Is this fine 3.5x9.5x120cm or is there
some different convention?


The convention I use is to not put any units on "nominal" dimensions. You
can think of the size as being named after the measurement, not actually
measuring it. A 2x4 is actually 1.5" by 3.5".

It's ok to specify just one unit at the end of the string, but if there's
any doubt (it's perfectly alright to cut a 2x4 to 120cm) specify every
unit.

Puckdropper
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On 12/28/2017 3:52 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
Emanuel Berg wrote in :

What's the notation for a piece of wood, say
pine? Is this fine 3.5x9.5x120cm or is there
some different convention?


The convention I use is to not put any units on "nominal" dimensions. You
can think of the size as being named after the measurement, not actually
measuring it. A 2x4 is actually 1.5" by 3.5".

It's ok to specify just one unit at the end of the string, but if there's
any doubt (it's perfectly alright to cut a 2x4 to 120cm) specify every
unit.

Puckdropper

I believe the original poster on should tell where he found the piece of
wood. Different country may have different conventions for identifying
their wood.




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Keith Nuttle wrote:

I believe the original poster on should tell
where he found the piece of wood.
Different country may have different
conventions for identifying their wood.


Well, I'm in Sweden but here I ask for the
notation/convention used in the Anglo-American
world, e.g. in the UK and North America.

But if anyone comes from yet another country
feel unrestricted to tell how it is put
there

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Bill wrote:

Is that actual or nominal size? If you are
not sure, do an Internet search.


It is the actual size, or as actual it gets
with measuring tape.

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On 12/28/2017 12:23 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Keith Nuttle wrote:

I believe the original poster on should tell
where he found the piece of wood.
Different country may have different
conventions for identifying their wood.


Well, I'm in Sweden but here I ask for the
notation/convention used in the Anglo-American
world, e.g. in the UK and North America.


TxWxL (thickness/width/length) is pretty-much the way measurements are
given in US/NA although as another noted construction lumber is referred
to by its nominal dimensions rather than exact measurements (despite the
silly/frivolous lawsuits slapped on by the tort-chasing lawyers).

If one is providing dimensions for a piece that is a part of a piece of
furniture or other fitted use then exact dimensions are, of course,
mandatory.

It would be assumed that a single dimension would apply to all; don't
believe that would ever be a source of confusion although it never hurts
to be explicit. In US, as so much is still in English units in the
construction field, having the decimal points would make it essentially
universal to be metric. In Canada, "not so much"...

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dpb wrote:

TxWxL (thickness/width/length) is pretty-much
the way measurements are given in US/NA


Great, this was the answer I was looking for.

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On Thu, 28 Dec 2017 12:36:14 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 12/28/2017 12:23 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Keith Nuttle wrote:

I believe the original poster on should tell
where he found the piece of wood.
Different country may have different
conventions for identifying their wood.


Well, I'm in Sweden but here I ask for the
notation/convention used in the Anglo-American
world, e.g. in the UK and North America.


TxWxL (thickness/width/length) is pretty-much the way measurements are
given in US/NA although as another noted construction lumber is referred
to by its nominal dimensions rather than exact measurements (despite the
silly/frivolous lawsuits slapped on by the tort-chasing lawyers).


It's not just construction lumber that's specified by it's nominal
size. Finished lumber is also specified by it's nominal thickness (1"
is really 3/4", 5/4 is really 1-1/8", etc.). However, boards are
normally specified in board-feet, rather than W/H/L.

If one is providing dimensions for a piece that is a part of a piece of
furniture or other fitted use then exact dimensions are, of course,
mandatory.

It would be assumed that a single dimension would apply to all; don't
believe that would ever be a source of confusion although it never hurts
to be explicit. In US, as so much is still in English units in the
construction field, having the decimal points would make it essentially
universal to be metric. In Canada, "not so much"...

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krw wrote:

However, boards are normally specified in
board-feet, rather than W/H/L.


How would that look in this case, i.e.
3.5x9.5x120cm? (Or 3.5/9.5/120cm following
your template.)

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On Fri, 29 Dec 2017 03:18:06 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

krw wrote:

However, boards are normally specified in
board-feet, rather than W/H/L.


How would that look in this case, i.e.
3.5x9.5x120cm? (Or 3.5/9.5/120cm following
your template.)


Hardwoods aren't normally sold as finished boards and may not even be
square (depending of grade[*]) and almost certainly not standard width
and length (thickness is more standardized - listed by multiples of
1/4" but that, too, is nominal thickness). When buying hardwoods, one
measures. ;-) A board-foot is 1" thick, by 12"x12", so one has to
calculate from there to get pricing.
[*] e.g. F2S (finished 2-sides = sides parallel but edges not
necessarily square)
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krw wrote:

When buying hardwoods, one measures. ;-)


Really?

So what should you bring to the
sawmill/hardware store as not to expose
yourself as a rank amateur?

A measuring tape box and a folding rule with
inches as well as centimeters?

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On Fri, 29 Dec 2017 03:48:54 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

krw wrote:

When buying hardwoods, one measures. ;-)


Really?

So what should you bring to the
sawmill/hardware store as not to expose
yourself as a rank amateur?


Hardware stores rarely sell hardwoods. Some lumber yards/home centers
sell a little but it's *hugely* overpriced, often shrink-wrapped (if
that tells you anything). Woodworking stores sell hardwoods but, yes,
you bring a tape measure. Usually they have the number of board-feet
marked on the boards to get an idea of pricing. For better deals, one
goes to a specialty lumber yard. Yes, it's a good idea to know what
you're doing.

A measuring tape box and a folding rule with
inches as well as centimeters?


Tape measure, absolutely. What would you do with centimeters? ;-)

BTW, sometimes the boards aren't even rectangular. Yes, it can get to
be a mess. One must choose well.
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On Fri, 29 Dec 2017 03:48:54 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

krw wrote:

When buying hardwoods, one measures. ;-)


Really?

So what should you bring to the
sawmill/hardware store as not to expose
yourself as a rank amateur?

A measuring tape box and a folding rule with
inches as well as centimeters?


You don't generally buy hardwoods from a hardware store. If you're
buying from a sawmill directly you'll generally be going for a large
lot sawn to order, so you tell them what the width and thickness are
and will generally get random lengths depending on what they can get
out of the available logs.

Usually you'll be buying hardwoods from a hardwood lumber yard, which
will have rough-sawn boards in various thicknesses and with widths
that are somewhat random--very wide boards may be segregated and come
at a higher price.

So you take a tape measure and you use it to find boards that are wide
enough and long enough to allow you to cut the pieces you need.

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J. Clarke wrote:

So you take a tape measure and you use it to
find boards that are wide enough and long
enough to allow you to cut the pieces
you need.


Wait - don't tell me you have to have your own
*saw* as well?!?

Ha ha ha!

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On Thursday, December 28, 2017 at 9:48:57 PM UTC-5, Emanuel Berg wrote:
krw wrote:

When buying hardwoods, one measures. ;-)


Really?

So what should you bring to the
sawmill/hardware store as not to expose
yourself as a rank amateur?


I wouldn't worry about being exposed as an amatuer. It's better than being exposed as an
A-hole who thinks they know everything but in reality knows squat.

There a place near me where I can buy all sorts of wood in all sorts of sizes. One guy will
spend a hour with you answering your questions (he likes to teach). The other guy grudgingly
answers your questions with a minimum of words. (I'll be gracious and say that he's not much
of a talker. I won't say that he doesn't really want to help.)

If you can find a teacher, you're golden. Even the experts were rank amaturers once. Those
that remember that are the good guys, like most of the folks in this group.
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On Thursday, December 28, 2017 at 9:48:57 PM UTC-5, Emanuel Berg wrote:
krw wrote:

When buying hardwoods, one measures. ;-)


Really?

So what should you bring to the
sawmill/hardware store as not to expose
yourself as a rank amateur?


Perhaps this will help...

https://www.woodworkerssource.com/sh...uy_lumber.html
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In rec.woodworking, Emanuel Berg wrote:
So what should you bring to the
sawmill/hardware store as not to expose
yourself as a rank amateur?

A measuring tape box and a folding rule with
inches as well as centimeters?


Well, the real professionals don't buy the wood. They carefully nuture
the sapling to grow into the tree with the wood they want. In this way
they can ensure the angle of the grain is just right for the arch, or
the knots will be placed for best aesthetics. Sure, it takes real
patience, but that's part of being *professional*, taking the time to
do it right.

Elijah
------
and don't forget the benefits of that shade while waiting
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On Fri, 29 Dec 2017 07:31:10 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

J. Clarke wrote:

So you take a tape measure and you use it to
find boards that are wide enough and long
enough to allow you to cut the pieces
you need.


Wait - don't tell me you have to have your own
*saw* as well?!?


I used to but I haven't seen it for a while.

Ha ha ha!

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"Eli the Bearded" wrote in message
...

Well, the real professionals don't buy the wood. They carefully nuture
the sapling to grow into the tree with the wood they want. In this way
they can ensure the angle of the grain is just right for the arch, or
the knots will be placed for best aesthetics. Sure, it takes real
patience, but that's part of being *professional*, taking the time to
do it right.


You are not far off... When I was a child an elderly neighbor made a lot of
things using that approach. He was been born in Poland, I'm guessing around
1880-1890, and was apprenticed as a blacksmith when he was a child. At some
point he came to the U.S. and applied his blacksmithing skills as an
auto-body repairman. He owned an old dairy farm, grew most of his food in
large gardens, made his own wine, and made many things for around the
property.

He'd walk the woods until he found the perfect tree for a task. For example,
I recall a large bird house he made that sat on a pole made from a cedar
tree. That tree had a branch structure that let him cut a number of branches
off "flat" and they became the supports for the bird house. He made hay
rakes, Adirondack chairs, and myriad other things from trees that lent
themselves to the particular job. I have his large "firewood" cross-cut saw.
One of his hay rakes and his anvil are still at my parents' home. I plan to
"inherit" them -- my brother would simply throw them away or sell them. I,
on the other hand, have memories of my neighbor smithing at his garage and I
recall raking hay with the rake. I used that big crosscut saw to buck a
large fallen tree that we eventually split into firewood (he heated with a
wood furnace in the basement). I played checkers and canasta with he and his
wife and enjoyed having lunch with them. I never did, however, adopt his
habit of drinking sauerkraut juice for breakfast... It was a good experience
for a kid to know someone like him.







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In rec.woodworking,
John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Eli the Bearded" wrote:
Well, the real professionals don't buy the wood. They carefully nuture
the sapling to grow into the tree with the wood they want. In this way

You are not far off... When I was a child an elderly neighbor made a lot of
things using that approach. He was been born in Poland, I'm guessing around


I was thinking of real world examples of when I wrote that, but it was
intended facetiously.

I recall a story, I think of Cambridge College in England, of the roof
being inspected in a large hall and inspection turning up that the huge
oak beams supporting the vault had been badly damaged by insects. The
college masters became worried because huge pieces of wood like that are
not easily obtained, and something different would be, just that,
different.

Turned out, however, their forestry people had been grooming trees to
replace those beams for over a century. Because the forestry guys
remembered, even if the professors hadn't, that the beams get "all
beetley" after a time.

I never did, however, adopt his habit of drinking sauerkraut juice for
breakfast.


Hipsters will tell you how full of probiotics that stuff is.

It was a good experience for a kid to know someone like him.


Yeah, sounds like a good influence.

Elijah
------
pretty sure the story came from _How Buildings Learn_
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DerbyDad03 wrote:

I wouldn't worry about being exposed as an
amatuer. It's better than being exposed as an
A-hole who thinks they know everything but in
reality knows squat.


Well, that was a way of asking what to bring.
I'm not afraid of being exposed as anything,
and certainly not a carpenter as this photo [1]
pretty much sums up all my experience with
wood.

But I'm a gear freak so I always think about
brining the right stuff, knowing how to operate
it, and have it in a clean and
functional state, no matter what I do.

And yes, I've worked with many supposedly
professional guys who had no care of kit
whatsoever and had frustration boiling up all
day everyday because either the gear was
someplace else, or it was disfunctional from
maltreatment...

[1] http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/work-photos/wood.jpg

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On Sat, 30 Dec 2017 00:36:09 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

I wouldn't worry about being exposed as an
amatuer. It's better than being exposed as an
A-hole who thinks they know everything but in
reality knows squat.


Well, that was a way of asking what to bring.
I'm not afraid of being exposed as anything,
and certainly not a carpenter as this photo [1]
pretty much sums up all my experience with
wood.

But I'm a gear freak so I always think about
brining the right stuff, knowing how to operate
it, and have it in a clean and
functional state, no matter what I do.

And yes, I've worked with many supposedly
professional guys who had no care of kit
whatsoever and had frustration boiling up all
day everyday because either the gear was
someplace else, or it was disfunctional from
maltreatment...

[1] http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/work-photos/wood.jpg


Oh, if you want to buy that sort of wood, you specify it by the cord.
;-)
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On Friday, December 29, 2017 at 6:36:15 PM UTC-5, Emanuel Berg wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

I wouldn't worry about being exposed as an
amatuer. It's better than being exposed as an
A-hole who thinks they know everything but in
reality knows squat.


Well, that was a way of asking what to bring.
I'm not afraid of being exposed as anything,
and certainly not a carpenter as this photo [1]
pretty much sums up all my experience with
wood.

But I'm a gear freak so I always think about
brining the right stuff, knowing how to operate
it, and have it in a clean and
functional state, no matter what I do.

And yes, I've worked with many supposedly
professional guys who had no care of kit
whatsoever and had frustration boiling up all
day everyday because either the gear was
someplace else, or it was disfunctional from
maltreatment...

[1] http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/work-photos/wood.jpg



Did you see my link to the FAQ's at Woodworker's Source?

https://www.woodworkerssource.com/sh...uy_lumber.html

Lots of info there to help you understand how to buy boards using board-feet
measurements, what S2S means, how to get boards in the sizes you need, etc.

This info is both generic in nature (knowledge for use anywhere) as well as specific
to Woodworker's Source, explaining how to order specific boards from them. The same
will hold true for almost any source, with minor changes. In any case, you'll be armed with
knowledge that will help you understand your options.
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DerbyDad03 wrote:

https://www.woodworkerssource.com/sh...uy_lumber.html

Lots of info there to help you understand how
to buy boards using board-feet measurements,
what S2S means, how to get boards in the
sizes you need, etc.


Great, thank you

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