The local model railroad club has a lot of scenery materials in bags and
peanut butter-sized (and slightly larger) containers. The existing
pegboard is already overloaded, so I was thinking about a way to maximize
the storage in a small amount of space.

What I came up with is a series of cabinets, 4-6 inches wide, 24 inches
deep, and 6-8ft tall with pegboard on one side. The pegboard could house
shelves or hooks. Each cabinet would sit on fixed casters with some kind
of guide bar at the top. Like books on a shelf, when you wanted to
access something you'd pull it out and then push it back. One of the
requirements is to keep the aisleway clear when these are pushed in.

I'm not sure what I'd use for that guide bar, some form of pipe would
seem to work, but how do I make sure it doesn't extend into the aisleway?
Wood? Would drawer slides be reasonable in price and strong enough to
handle the load?

Thinking about this, I'm building giant drawers turned on their side.

I'd appreciate any feedback you guys have to share.

Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

replying to Puckdropper, Iggy wrote:
If it was a 2-sided block you could make Pocket Door hardware work extremely
well. However 1-sided, I'd agree with the Caster idea over Slides or Glides,
they just don't hold up but they do look good (as pictured). Casters avoid any
catastrophic tipping incident if or when multiple units are open.

Make the roll-out carcass a few inches shorter and put the back casters on a
block attached to the roll-out's carcass, to maintain alignment. Also, do a
block at the top for an alignment rail of rod, angle, c-channel, pipe or wood
within a deep-dado, c-channel, angles, cleats or do drawer Slides/Glides up
there.

I think you'd be best served by constructing each locker individually as a
standalone unit, rather than a big singular piece of furniture...if you were
considering it. Being modular means lockers can be added or deleted. And, they
can even be job-specific lockers, to be simply rolled where most convenient
and eliminate fat drunk guy traffic tie ups. You may even want some lockers
with storage on the left, instead of on the right.

Although, I might prefer a Clamshell set of lockers on out-set casters that
can unlock (locking might be desired if the club rents space) to open up flat
and thin, but offer the most space and be the easiest build. You could leave
them open and even face each side with sliding Plexiglas panels to keep Mr.
Clumsy under control.
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/ck

On 17 Nov 2017 09:37:36 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

The local model railroad club has a lot of scenery materials in bags and
peanut butter-sized (and slightly larger) containers. The existing
pegboard is already overloaded, so I was thinking about a way to maximize
the storage in a small amount of space.

What I came up with is a series of cabinets, 4-6 inches wide, 24 inches
deep, and 6-8ft tall with pegboard on one side. The pegboard could house
shelves or hooks. Each cabinet would sit on fixed casters with some kind
of guide bar at the top. Like books on a shelf, when you wanted to
access something you'd pull it out and then push it back. One of the
requirements is to keep the aisleway clear when these are pushed in.

I'm not sure what I'd use for that guide bar, some form of pipe would
seem to work, but how do I make sure it doesn't extend into the aisleway?
Wood? Would drawer slides be reasonable in price and strong enough to
handle the load?

Thinking about this, I'm building giant drawers turned on their side.

I'd appreciate any feedback you guys have to share.

Casters on the bottom of the "drawer" and a 1x2 guide on either side
on the frame on top?

wrote in
news
On 17 Nov 2017 09:37:36 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

The local model railroad club has a lot of scenery materials in bags
and peanut butter-sized (and slightly larger) containers. The
existing pegboard is already overloaded, so I was thinking about a way
to maximize the storage in a small amount of space.

What I came up with is a series of cabinets, 4-6 inches wide, 24
inches deep, and 6-8ft tall with pegboard on one side. The pegboard
could house shelves or hooks. Each cabinet would sit on fixed casters
with some kind of guide bar at the top. Like books on a shelf, when
you wanted to access something you'd pull it out and then push it
back. One of the requirements is to keep the aisleway clear when
these are pushed in.

I'm not sure what I'd use for that guide bar, some form of pipe would
seem to work, but how do I make sure it doesn't extend into the
aisleway? Wood? Would drawer slides be reasonable in price and
strong enough to handle the load?

Thinking about this, I'm building giant drawers turned on their side.

I'd appreciate any feedback you guys have to share.

Casters on the bottom of the "drawer" and a 1x2 guide on either side
on the frame on top?


The 1x2 guide sounds like a good idea. I'm a little concerned about a
"drawer" getting a little tipsy, but if I put the stop far enough back it
should keep things from tipping.

Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

On 18 Nov 2017 07:10:33 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

wrote in
news
On 17 Nov 2017 09:37:36 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

The local model railroad club has a lot of scenery materials in bags
and peanut butter-sized (and slightly larger) containers. The
existing pegboard is already overloaded, so I was thinking about a way
to maximize the storage in a small amount of space.

What I came up with is a series of cabinets, 4-6 inches wide, 24
inches deep, and 6-8ft tall with pegboard on one side. The pegboard
could house shelves or hooks. Each cabinet would sit on fixed casters
with some kind of guide bar at the top. Like books on a shelf, when
you wanted to access something you'd pull it out and then push it
back. One of the requirements is to keep the aisleway clear when
these are pushed in.

I'm not sure what I'd use for that guide bar, some form of pipe would
seem to work, but how do I make sure it doesn't extend into the
aisleway? Wood? Would drawer slides be reasonable in price and
strong enough to handle the load?

Thinking about this, I'm building giant drawers turned on their side.

I'd appreciate any feedback you guys have to share.

Casters on the bottom of the "drawer" and a 1x2 guide on either side
on the frame on top?


The 1x2 guide sounds like a good idea. I'm a little concerned about a
"drawer" getting a little tipsy, but if I put the stop far enough back it
should keep things from tipping.

I was thinking of the 1x running the depth of the cabinet, on either
side of the drawer. This would help keep the drawer from tipping as
long as the drawer wasn't extended past the cabinet top (a stop could
be included with a bit more work). The 1x could also be the separator
between drawers. If the casters are fixed (not swivel), there will be
less chance of the bottom sliding sideways (upside-down "tipping").
They'd have to be aligned pretty well, though.

replying to Puckdropper, Iggy wrote:
Just a few inches would be needed for a multi-locker (4 or more) single piece
of furniture. But, for a 1, 2 or 3 locker unit, it may require a stop at
almost midway (kind of useless storage). If you go that route, consider adding
gym Weight Plates, cast iron scrap or concrete to the back bottom of the unit,
so you can still achieve almost full pullout lockers for best use of space.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...ge-812274-.htm