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Default Rusty drill press column

[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?
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Greg Guarino wrote:
[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down
enough that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table
height?


One of those rust removing "jellies", and a wire brush?
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On Tue, 3 Oct 2017 13:30:38 -0400, Greg Guarino
wrote:

[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?


Naval Jelly?
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On Tuesday, October 3, 2017 at 1:30:43 PM UTC-4, Greg Guarino wrote:
[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?


I owe some of you an update on my Table saw rust conversation, and will do so in short time...

What I used recently was called KRUD KUTTER: THE MUST FOR RUST! (Google it.) It's a water base; worked well AND you can leave it on as an inhibitor. I was satisfied with the results. (Ventilate well.)

That should get you to the point where you can tell what metal is good and what metal then needs to be further abrased or removed.
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On 10/3/2017 1:30 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?



Empire Top Saver and steel wool. Available from woodworking suppliers
and Amazon.


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OnGreg Guarino wrote:

[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLKQz14MoZU 8-/

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On Tuesday, October 3, 2017 at 1:57:24 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 10/3/2017 1:30 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?



Empire Top Saver and steel wool. Available from woodworking suppliers
and Amazon.


Maybe not Amazon...

Currently unavailable, they don't know when or if it will be back in stock.

https://www.amazon.com/Top-Saver-Rus.../dp/B001DT12XQ

Maybe not anywhere...

A few forums have posts from folks that can't find it anymore.

Woodworkers Supply shows it in their website, but without an item number. I called and they
said it appears that Empire may be out of business.

If you have a source, a link would help. People seem to like it, so I'd like to try it.
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On 10/3/2017 3:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, October 3, 2017 at 1:57:24 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 10/3/2017 1:30 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?



Empire Top Saver and steel wool. Available from woodworking suppliers
and Amazon.


Maybe not Amazon...

Currently unavailable, they don't know when or if it will be back in stock.

https://www.amazon.com/Top-Saver-Rus.../dp/B001DT12XQ

Maybe not anywhere...

A few forums have posts from folks that can't find it anymore.

Woodworkers Supply shows it in their website, but without an item number. I called and they
said it appears that Empire may be out of business.

If you have a source, a link would help. People seem to like it, so I'd like to try it.


That sucks. The only source I know of right now is the bottle in my
garage.
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On Tuesday, October 3, 2017 at 12:30:43 PM UTC-5, Greg Guarino wrote:
[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?


WD40 and steel wool.
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On 10/3/2017 12:57 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 10/3/2017 1:30 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down
enough that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table
height?



Empire Top Saver and steel wool.Â* Available from woodworking suppliers
and Amazon.




I do not think Empire is in business any more.


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On 10/3/2017 2:47 PM, Michael wrote:
On Tuesday, October 3, 2017 at 12:30:43 PM UTC-5, Greg Guarino wrote:
[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?


WD40 and steel wool.



+1
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On 03-Oct-17 12:30 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?


Far easier than steel wool is fine (240+) wet/dry paper or emery
cloth...can make long strip and do the back-forth pull much easier than
trying to scrub w/ steel wool. Plus, it cuts quicker.

After remove the bulk, polish with 400+ and will be good as new...

--

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On Tue, 3 Oct 2017 12:47:51 -0700 (PDT), Michael
wrote:

On Tuesday, October 3, 2017 at 12:30:43 PM UTC-5, Greg Guarino wrote:
[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?


WD40 and steel wool.


That's a lot like work. There is a reason they don't use WD40 and
steel wool on battle ships. ;-)
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On Tue, 3 Oct 2017 13:30:38 -0400, Greg Guarino
wrote:

[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?


Used WD40 and 0000 steel wool on a RAS column.
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On 2017-10-03, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 10/3/2017 2:47 PM, Michael wrote:


WD40 and steel wool.


+1


Anyone who thinks --or even agrees-- that WD40 was ever anything other
than a "water displacement" (WD) formula (formula number 40 ....duh!)
is totally clueless. The company jes keeps adding more stuff to fit
the buyer's fantasies.

I rarely even use WD40, preferring instead, LPS Corrosion Inhibitor.
It also comes in 1, 2, and 3, which usta be jes different levels of viscosity,
1=low viscosity (LPS1=WD40), LPS2=higher viscosity, etc, though they call each
something different, now. Also, WD40 and LPS products now DO! include a
light lubricant in their formula, since so many clueless folks have
mis-used them as "lubricants", which they were originally NOT!

What the Hell! It sells!! I can even buy an aerosol can of WD40 at
my local sprmkt.

nb


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On 03-Oct-17 4:02 PM, notbob wrote:
....

... Also, WD40 and LPS products now DO! include a
light lubricant in their formula, ...


WD40 was _always_ a light hydrocarbon base, essentially kerosene-like
fraction which has quite good lubricating properties for light duty.
"Stoddard oil" was essentially it way back when; I suspect they've had
to make some modifications to keep up with EPA/MSDS issues since the
'50s, it is essentially the same product as always.

While it was developed specifically for another purpose, that doesn't
make it any less useful for many other applications; in fact it's
probably better at those than it is for the original purpose.

--

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On Tuesday, October 3, 2017 at 5:02:32 PM UTC-4, notbob wrote:


Anyone who thinks --or even agrees-- that WD40 was ever anything other
than a "water displacement" (WD) formula (formula number 40 ....duh!)
is totally clueless. The company jes keeps adding more stuff to fit
the buyer's fantasies.

I rarely even use WD40, preferring instead, LPS Corrosion Inhibitor.
It also comes in 1, 2, and 3, which usta be jes different levels of viscosity,
1=low viscosity (LPS1=WD40), LPS2=higher viscosity, etc, though they call each
something different, now. Also, WD40 and LPS products now DO! include a
light lubricant in their formula, since so many clueless folks have
mis-used them as "lubricants", which they were originally NOT!

What the Hell! It sells!! I can even buy an aerosol can of WD40 at
my local sprmkt.

nb


Yup. It sells. So does Minwax and water based Primer "for wood." So do tickets to MLS Soccer matches, for that matter.

Anyway, I have a friend of a friend who likes to dip his bait into WD-40 as a fish attractant. Maybe they should market that as another!
(Ok, maybe not!)
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On 10/3/2017 6:09 PM, dpb wrote:
On 03-Oct-17 4:02 PM, notbob wrote:
...

... Also, WD40 and LPS products now DO! include a
light lubricant in their formula, ...


WD40 was _always_ a light hydrocarbon base, essentially kerosene-like
fraction which has quite good lubricating properties for light duty.
"Stoddard oil" was essentially it way back when; I suspect they've had
to make some modifications to keep up with EPA/MSDS issues since the
'50s, it is essentially the same product as always.

While it was developed specifically for another purpose, that doesn't
make it any less useful for many other applications; in fact it's
probably better at those than it is for the original purpose.Â*

--

The argument will go on forever. Most any liquid has some lubricating
properties and WD does have some derivatives of oil and i will
lubricate. That said, there are many other lubricants that may do a
better job in some circumstances.


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"Greg Guarino" wrote in message news
[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?


For this kind of rust removal I tend to use steel wool and a sticky oil like
Hoppe's gun oil. Chainsaw bar oil would probably work too... anything that
doesn't run down the column too fast and also lubricates should be fine. An
alternative I've used for heavy corrosion that pulls steel wool apart (but
doesn't justify power tools with wire brushes, etc.) is green Scotch Brite
pads and oil and then finish it up with steel wool.

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On 10/3/2017 3:47 PM, Michael wrote:
On Tuesday, October 3, 2017 at 12:30:43 PM UTC-5, Greg Guarino wrote:
[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?


WD40 and steel wool.

I would agree with this, BUT there is no indication as to the extent of
the problem. If this is a little surface rust that has not pitted the
surface the above would be a good alternative. Personally I use a very
fine sand paper.

If this drill press is rusted so bad that the surface is pitted, rust
remover may may it functionally acceptable. It it is real bad there may
be no hope to get it to be functional.



--
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On Tue, 3 Oct 2017 18:42:26 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 10/3/2017 6:09 PM, dpb wrote:
On 03-Oct-17 4:02 PM, notbob wrote:
...

... Also, WD40 and LPS products now DO! include a
light lubricant in their formula, ...


WD40 was _always_ a light hydrocarbon base, essentially kerosene-like
fraction which has quite good lubricating properties for light duty.
"Stoddard oil" was essentially it way back when; I suspect they've had
to make some modifications to keep up with EPA/MSDS issues since the
'50s, it is essentially the same product as always.

While it was developed specifically for another purpose, that doesn't
make it any less useful for many other applications; in fact it's
probably better at those than it is for the original purpose.*

--

The argument will go on forever. Most any liquid has some lubricating
properties and WD does have some derivatives of oil and i will
lubricate. That said, there are many other lubricants that may do a
better job in some circumstances.


H2O the universal solvent, also lubes.
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On Tue, 3 Oct 2017 13:30:38 -0400, Greg Guarino
wrote:

[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?

Kero and a wire brush? Followed by fine samdpaper and a coat of
Boeshield or paste wax?
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On 10/3/2017 11:30 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?

Citric acid.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Remo...h-Citric-Acid/
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...d+rust+removal


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On Tue, 3 Oct 2017 18:42:26 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 10/3/2017 6:09 PM, dpb wrote:
On 03-Oct-17 4:02 PM, notbob wrote:
...

... Also, WD40 and LPS products now DO! include a
light lubricant in their formula, ...


WD40 was _always_ a light hydrocarbon base, essentially kerosene-like
fraction which has quite good lubricating properties for light duty.
"Stoddard oil" was essentially it way back when; I suspect they've had
to make some modifications to keep up with EPA/MSDS issues since the
'50s, it is essentially the same product as always.

While it was developed specifically for another purpose, that doesn't
make it any less useful for many other applications; in fact it's
probably better at those than it is for the original purpose.*

--

The argument will go on forever.


It can, and has! ;-)

Most any liquid has some lubricating
properties and WD does have some derivatives of oil and i will
lubricate. That said, there are many other lubricants that may do a
better job in some circumstances.


What I want to know is whether, or not, I need to ground my dust
collector?
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On Tue, 03 Oct 2017 19:00:29 -0500, Markem
wrote:

On Tue, 3 Oct 2017 18:42:26 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 10/3/2017 6:09 PM, dpb wrote:
On 03-Oct-17 4:02 PM, notbob wrote:
...

... Also, WD40 and LPS products now DO! include a
light lubricant in their formula, ...

WD40 was _always_ a light hydrocarbon base, essentially kerosene-like
fraction which has quite good lubricating properties for light duty.
"Stoddard oil" was essentially it way back when; I suspect they've had
to make some modifications to keep up with EPA/MSDS issues since the
'50s, it is essentially the same product as always.

While it was developed specifically for another purpose, that doesn't
make it any less useful for many other applications; in fact it's
probably better at those than it is for the original purpose.*

--

The argument will go on forever. Most any liquid has some lubricating
properties and WD does have some derivatives of oil and i will
lubricate. That said, there are many other lubricants that may do a
better job in some circumstances.


H2O the universal solvent, also lubes.


Water sex is overrated. Use KY.
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On 10/3/2017 4:02 PM, notbob wrote:
On 2017-10-03, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 10/3/2017 2:47 PM, Michael wrote:


WD40 and steel wool.


+1


Anyone who thinks --or even agrees-- that WD40 was ever anything other
than a "water displacement" (WD) formula (formula number 40 ....duh!)
is totally clueless. The company jes keeps adding more stuff to fit
the buyer's fantasies.


Well clueless apparently you are just that. It was said, and I agreed,
WD-40 and steel wool. The steel wool cuts the rust loose and the WD-40
helps to wash it away.


YOU should reread what the OP was requesting, hint, not anything other
than removing or smoothing it down.

Jeez!!!!


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On 10/3/2017 5:09 PM, dpb wrote:
On 03-Oct-17 4:02 PM, notbob wrote:
...

... Also, WD40 and LPS products now DO! include a
light lubricant in their formula, ...


WD40 was _always_ a light hydrocarbon base, essentially kerosene-like
fraction which has quite good lubricating properties for light duty.
"Stoddard oil" was essentially it way back when; I suspect they've had
to make some modifications to keep up with EPA/MSDS issues since the
'50s, it is essentially the same product as always.

While it was developed specifically for another purpose, that doesn't
make it any less useful for many other applications; in fact it's
probably better at those than it is for the original purpose.Â*

--


+1
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On 10/3/2017 3:24 PM, Markem wrote:
On Tue, 3 Oct 2017 13:30:38 -0400, Greg Guarino
wrote:

[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?


Used WD40 and 0000 steel wool on a RAS column.


There are those of that have done, and the rest simply read something
somewhere and regurgitated it. ;~)


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On Tuesday, October 3, 2017 at 9:10:00 PM UTC-4, wrote:

What I want to know is whether, or not, I need to ground my dust
collector?


I don't know if it needs to be grounded, but I got one heck of a static shock from my
improvised dust collection system. I have about 15' of pool vacuum hose running along
the ceiling of my shop and an adaptor that allows me to connect a standard 1.5" vacuum
hose. The pool hose runs back to the wet-dry vac in the miter saw stand. I use the small
hose for my sanders, Kreg jig and general cleanup uf of the workbench.

I was vacuuming the workbench the other day and holding the plastic end of the hose in
my right hand. I reached over the hose with my left hand and an arc jumped from the
hose to my left arm. Hurt like hell. That was the first time it happened in the few months
since I installed the long pool hose a couple of months ago. I wonder if it will happen more
often once the furnace is running and the house dries out.
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notbob wrote in
:


Anyone who thinks --or even agrees-- that WD40 was ever anything other
than a "water displacement" (WD) formula (formula number 40 ....duh!)
is totally clueless. The company jes keeps adding more stuff to fit
the buyer's fantasies.

I rarely even use WD40, preferring instead, LPS Corrosion Inhibitor.
It also comes in 1, 2, and 3, which usta be jes different levels of
viscosity, 1=low viscosity (LPS1=WD40), LPS2=higher viscosity, etc,
though they call each something different, now. Also, WD40 and LPS
products now DO! include a light lubricant in their formula, since so
many clueless folks have mis-used them as "lubricants", which they
were originally NOT!

What the Hell! It sells!! I can even buy an aerosol can of WD40 at
my local sprmkt.

nb


Thing is, it works. It doesn't work very well at times, and it doesn't
work as well as other products but it works. There's probably a can in
every garage that doesn't need it and about half of the ones that do.
(Just the way the universe works.)

Puckdropper
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wrote in
news

Water sex is overrated. Use KY.


Would WD40 sex be better?

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On Tuesday, October 3, 2017 at 10:30:43 AM UTC-7, Greg Guarino wrote:

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?


Wire brush to start, and while steel wool is OK (wear gloves), it's more convenient
to use those black/brown/maroon Scotchbrite abrasive pads to get
the surface clear-ish. You don't want to remove metal, just the brittle
surface rust.

The finishing touch would be some metal polish (really, just some Mother's on
a rag), and a water wash, followed by dry and either wax or use a film-creating oil
(boiled linseed oil works). Washing is key, if there's any salt in a pit, it'll
attract water and rust again.
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On 2017-10-03, dpb wrote:


"Stoddard oil" was essentially it way back when;


It is stoddard "solvent", not "oil". Jes cuz it is a petroleum
distilate, does not make it a lubricant. Is gasoline a lubricant?

BTW, water is also considered a "solvent".

nb


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On Tuesday, October 3, 2017 at 4:02:32 PM UTC-5, notbob wrote:
On 2017-10-03, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 10/3/2017 2:47 PM, Michael wrote:


WD40 and steel wool.


+1


Anyone who thinks --or even agrees-- that WD40 was ever anything other
than a "water displacement" (WD) formula (formula number 40 ....duh!)
is totally clueless. The company jes keeps adding more stuff to fit
the buyer's fantasies.

I rarely even use WD40, preferring instead, LPS Corrosion Inhibitor.
It also comes in 1, 2, and 3, which usta be jes different levels of viscosity,
1=low viscosity (LPS1=WD40), LPS2=higher viscosity, etc, though they call each
something different, now. Also, WD40 and LPS products now DO! include a
light lubricant in their formula, since so many clueless folks have
mis-used them as "lubricants", which they were originally NOT!

What the Hell! It sells!! I can even buy an aerosol can of WD40 at
my local sprmkt.

nb


You may or may not be right. All I know is that my drill press had rust on it and it looks like new (and is staying that way) after I sprayed it with WD40 and scrubbed with some steel wool.
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On 10/4/2017 12:12 PM, notbob wrote:
On 2017-10-03, dpb wrote:


"Stoddard oil" was essentially it way back when;


It is stoddard "solvent", not "oil". Jes cuz it is a petroleum
distilate, does not make it a lubricant. Is gasoline a lubricant?


AAMOF leaded gasoline is a lubricant.
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On 2017-10-04, Michael wrote:

You may or may not be right. All I know is that my drill press had
rust on it and it looks like new (and is staying that way) after I
sprayed it with WD40 and scrubbed with some steel wool.


I'm so very happy for you (though, I suspect "scrubbed" is the
operative word, here).

Did you try Simple Green and steel wool? I know, by experience, it
will remove melted rubber (and most anything else!) from motorcycle
exhaust pipes. Jes warm the pipes enough to touch w/o being burned
and apply SG, then rub w/ 00000 steel wool. I think it even removes
the "bluing" (common to older single-tube exhausts) near the head.

Wranglerstar, a YouTube regular, has tried several rust removing
tricks. He actually recommends a regular "rust remover" (not Naval
Jelly), which he compared along side white vinegar. The "remover"
worked better, but I forget its name.

nb
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On 04 Oct 2017 05:37:53 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

wrote in
news

Water sex is overrated. Use KY.


Would WD40 sex be better?


You're asking me?
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On 2017-10-04, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

AAMOF leaded gasoline is a lubricant.


Actually, TEL is a fuel additive. More specifically, an "octane
booster". Jes cuz car/motorcycle magazine editors called it a
"lubricant" for 4-stroke combustion engine valve seats does not make
so.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetraethyllead

nb
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