Pocket hole miter hack
 

For those of you that have a Kreg pocket hole or like jig you may recall
seeing instructions, video, or demonstration of how to join two pieces
of wood, by their edges, with an angle other than 90 degrees.

Say you want to join the edges at a 45 degree angle. With normal
joinery you might bevel the edges to 22.5 degrees, maybe biscuit, glue
and clamp.

With pocket holes it becomes somewhat easier and stronger if you simply
bevel one edge at 45 degrees and leave the mating edge at 90 degrees.
You simply build a 45 degree jig to set and hold the pieces in place
allow the 45 degree bevel piece to fit deeper so that the back sides of
both pieces join to a smooth joint.

After gluing and applying the screws remove and sand the point off of
the corner. This hides where the actual joint line is at and moves it
away from the actual corner. Clear as mud? Maybe not to those that
have actually built this jig and used it.


I was think about this jig and dreading to have to build another for my
current job. I need to join two pieces at a 69 degree angle. I then
had a thought, an instant bit of knowledge pop into my head and I made
this process much much easier and with out using a jig.

To clear things up a bit, a picture is worth a thousand words.
The link below shows a picture of the two pieces I joined with glue and
pocket holes. The picture also shows the "hidden joint" about 1/4" away
from where the pieces change angles and where you would normally see the
joint.

You normally need a jig to hold these pieces in place while gluing and
inserting the pocket hole screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here is the picture that popped into my head and the firs step. Like
normal I cut the bevel that I needed, in this case 21 degrees.
Next I lowered the blade on my TS to 1/8" below the surface of that
piece of wood and moved the fence closer to the blade just shy of the
width of the blade. This is the result of those procedures. Notice the
small lip that resulted. Keep in mind also that with different angles
the lip will need to be larger or smaller. A scaled drawing or a
drawing program tells yo exactly how much to cut.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here you can see how this comes together. The lip replaces the jig, it
holds the mating piece in just the right place with no need for clamps
or jigs when inserting the screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Parts in proper place, you see what needs to be sanded off.
BTW This picture was my first test of this method and I had not yet
drilled the pocket holes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Pocket hole miter hack
 

On 7/11/2017 12:16 PM, Leon wrote:
For those of you that have a Kreg pocket hole or like jig you may recall
seeing instructions, video, or demonstration of how to join two pieces
of wood, by their edges, with an angle other than 90 degrees.

Say you want to join the edges at a 45 degree angle. With normal
joinery you might bevel the edges to 22.5 degrees, maybe biscuit, glue
and clamp.

With pocket holes it becomes somewhat easier and stronger if you simply
bevel one edge at 45 degrees and leave the mating edge at 90 degrees.
You simply build a 45 degree jig to set and hold the pieces in place
allow the 45 degree bevel piece to fit deeper so that the back sides of
both pieces join to a smooth joint.

After gluing and applying the screws remove and sand the point off of
the corner. This hides where the actual joint line is at and moves it
away from the actual corner. Clear as mud? Maybe not to those that
have actually built this jig and used it.


I was think about this jig and dreading to have to build another for my
current job. I need to join two pieces at a 69 degree angle. I then
had a thought, an instant bit of knowledge pop into my head and I made
this process much much easier and with out using a jig.

To clear things up a bit, a picture is worth a thousand words.
The link below shows a picture of the two pieces I joined with glue and
pocket holes. The picture also shows the "hidden joint" about 1/4" away
from where the pieces change angles and where you would normally see the
joint.

You normally need a jig to hold these pieces in place while gluing and
inserting the pocket hole screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here is the picture that popped into my head and the firs step. Like
normal I cut the bevel that I needed, in this case 21 degrees.
Next I lowered the blade on my TS to 1/8" below the surface of that
piece of wood and moved the fence closer to the blade just shy of the
width of the blade. This is the result of those procedures. Notice the
small lip that resulted. Keep in mind also that with different angles
the lip will need to be larger or smaller. A scaled drawing or a
drawing program tells yo exactly how much to cut.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here you can see how this comes together. The lip replaces the jig, it
holds the mating piece in just the right place with no need for clamps
or jigs when inserting the screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Parts in proper place, you see what needs to be sanded off.
BTW This picture was my first test of this method and I had not yet
drilled the pocket holes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/



One more shop immediately after gluing and inserting the pocket holes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Pocket hole miter hack
 

On 7/11/2017 1:22 PM, Leon wrote:
On 7/11/2017 12:16 PM, Leon wrote:
For those of you that have a Kreg pocket hole or like jig you may
recall seeing instructions, video, or demonstration of how to join two
pieces of wood, by their edges, with an angle other than 90 degrees.

Say you want to join the edges at a 45 degree angle. With normal
joinery you might bevel the edges to 22.5 degrees, maybe biscuit, glue
and clamp.

With pocket holes it becomes somewhat easier and stronger if you
simply bevel one edge at 45 degrees and leave the mating edge at 90
degrees.
You simply build a 45 degree jig to set and hold the pieces in place
allow the 45 degree bevel piece to fit deeper so that the back sides
of both pieces join to a smooth joint.

After gluing and applying the screws remove and sand the point off of
the corner. This hides where the actual joint line is at and moves it
away from the actual corner. Clear as mud? Maybe not to those
that have actually built this jig and used it.


I was think about this jig and dreading to have to build another for
my current job. I need to join two pieces at a 69 degree angle. I
then had a thought, an instant bit of knowledge pop into my head and I
made this process much much easier and with out using a jig.

To clear things up a bit, a picture is worth a thousand words.
The link below shows a picture of the two pieces I joined with glue
and pocket holes. The picture also shows the "hidden joint" about
1/4" away from where the pieces change angles and where you would
normally see the joint.

You normally need a jig to hold these pieces in place while gluing and
inserting the pocket hole screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here is the picture that popped into my head and the firs step. Like
normal I cut the bevel that I needed, in this case 21 degrees.
Next I lowered the blade on my TS to 1/8" below the surface of that
piece of wood and moved the fence closer to the blade just shy of the
width of the blade. This is the result of those procedures. Notice
the small lip that resulted. Keep in mind also that with different
angles the lip will need to be larger or smaller. A scaled drawing or
a drawing program tells yo exactly how much to cut.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here you can see how this comes together. The lip replaces the jig,
it holds the mating piece in just the right place with no need for
clamps or jigs when inserting the screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Parts in proper place, you see what needs to be sanded off.
BTW This picture was my first test of this method and I had not yet
drilled the pocket holes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/



One more shop immediately after gluing and inserting the pocket holes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

reminds me of a bird mouth joint.

--
Jeff

Pocket hole miter hack
 

Leon wrote:
On 7/11/2017 12:16 PM, Leon wrote:
For those of you that have a Kreg pocket hole or like jig you may recall
seeing instructions, video, or demonstration of how to join two pieces
of wood, by their edges, with an angle other than 90 degrees.

Say you want to join the edges at a 45 degree angle. With normal
joinery you might bevel the edges to 22.5 degrees, maybe biscuit, glue
and clamp.

With pocket holes it becomes somewhat easier and stronger if you simply
bevel one edge at 45 degrees and leave the mating edge at 90 degrees.
You simply build a 45 degree jig to set and hold the pieces in place
allow the 45 degree bevel piece to fit deeper so that the back sides of
both pieces join to a smooth joint.

After gluing and applying the screws remove and sand the point off of
the corner. This hides where the actual joint line is at and moves it
away from the actual corner. Clear as mud? Maybe not to those that
have actually built this jig and used it.


I was think about this jig and dreading to have to build another for my
current job. I need to join two pieces at a 69 degree angle. I then
had a thought, an instant bit of knowledge pop into my head and I made
this process much much easier and with out using a jig.

To clear things up a bit, a picture is worth a thousand words.
The link below shows a picture of the two pieces I joined with glue and
pocket holes. The picture also shows the "hidden joint" about 1/4" away
from where the pieces change angles and where you would normally see the
joint.

You normally need a jig to hold these pieces in place while gluing and
inserting the pocket hole screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here is the picture that popped into my head and the firs step. Like
normal I cut the bevel that I needed, in this case 21 degrees.
Next I lowered the blade on my TS to 1/8" below the surface of that
piece of wood and moved the fence closer to the blade just shy of the
width of the blade. This is the result of those procedures. Notice the
small lip that resulted. Keep in mind also that with different angles
the lip will need to be larger or smaller. A scaled drawing or a
drawing program tells yo exactly how much to cut.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here you can see how this comes together. The lip replaces the jig, it
holds the mating piece in just the right place with no need for clamps
or jigs when inserting the screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Parts in proper place, you see what needs to be sanded off.
BTW This picture was my first test of this method and I had not yet
drilled the pocket holes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/



One more shop immediately after gluing and inserting the pocket holes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Ingenious. That is some pretty wood, too. Is it oak?

--
GW Ross

Pocket hole miter hack
 

On 7/11/2017 2:08 PM, G Ross wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 7/11/2017 12:16 PM, Leon wrote:
For those of you that have a Kreg pocket hole or like jig you may recall
seeing instructions, video, or demonstration of how to join two pieces
of wood, by their edges, with an angle other than 90 degrees.

Say you want to join the edges at a 45 degree angle. With normal
joinery you might bevel the edges to 22.5 degrees, maybe biscuit, glue
and clamp.

With pocket holes it becomes somewhat easier and stronger if you simply
bevel one edge at 45 degrees and leave the mating edge at 90 degrees.
You simply build a 45 degree jig to set and hold the pieces in place
allow the 45 degree bevel piece to fit deeper so that the back sides of
both pieces join to a smooth joint.

After gluing and applying the screws remove and sand the point off of
the corner. This hides where the actual joint line is at and moves it
away from the actual corner. Clear as mud? Maybe not to those that
have actually built this jig and used it.


I was think about this jig and dreading to have to build another for my
current job. I need to join two pieces at a 69 degree angle. I then
had a thought, an instant bit of knowledge pop into my head and I made
this process much much easier and with out using a jig.

To clear things up a bit, a picture is worth a thousand words.
The link below shows a picture of the two pieces I joined with glue and
pocket holes. The picture also shows the "hidden joint" about 1/4" away
from where the pieces change angles and where you would normally see the
joint.

You normally need a jig to hold these pieces in place while gluing and
inserting the pocket hole screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here is the picture that popped into my head and the firs step. Like
normal I cut the bevel that I needed, in this case 21 degrees.
Next I lowered the blade on my TS to 1/8" below the surface of that
piece of wood and moved the fence closer to the blade just shy of the
width of the blade. This is the result of those procedures. Notice the
small lip that resulted. Keep in mind also that with different angles
the lip will need to be larger or smaller. A scaled drawing or a
drawing program tells yo exactly how much to cut.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here you can see how this comes together. The lip replaces the jig, it
holds the mating piece in just the right place with no need for clamps
or jigs when inserting the screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Parts in proper place, you see what needs to be sanded off.
BTW This picture was my first test of this method and I had not yet
drilled the pocket holes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/



One more shop immediately after gluing and inserting the pocket holes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Ingenious. That is some pretty wood, too. Is it oak?


White Oak! and Thank you. I'll be posting pictures when this project,
a Knights of Columbus, podium is complete. White oak And Cherry.

Pocket hole miter hack
 

On 7/11/2017 1:42 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 7/11/2017 1:22 PM, Leon wrote:
On 7/11/2017 12:16 PM, Leon wrote:
For those of you that have a Kreg pocket hole or like jig you may
recall seeing instructions, video, or demonstration of how to join
two pieces of wood, by their edges, with an angle other than 90 degrees.

Say you want to join the edges at a 45 degree angle. With normal
joinery you might bevel the edges to 22.5 degrees, maybe biscuit,
glue and clamp.

With pocket holes it becomes somewhat easier and stronger if you
simply bevel one edge at 45 degrees and leave the mating edge at 90
degrees.
You simply build a 45 degree jig to set and hold the pieces in place
allow the 45 degree bevel piece to fit deeper so that the back sides
of both pieces join to a smooth joint.

After gluing and applying the screws remove and sand the point off of
the corner. This hides where the actual joint line is at and moves
it away from the actual corner. Clear as mud? Maybe not to
those that have actually built this jig and used it.


I was think about this jig and dreading to have to build another for
my current job. I need to join two pieces at a 69 degree angle. I
then had a thought, an instant bit of knowledge pop into my head and
I made this process much much easier and with out using a jig.

To clear things up a bit, a picture is worth a thousand words.
The link below shows a picture of the two pieces I joined with glue
and pocket holes. The picture also shows the "hidden joint" about
1/4" away from where the pieces change angles and where you would
normally see the joint.

You normally need a jig to hold these pieces in place while gluing
and inserting the pocket hole screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here is the picture that popped into my head and the firs step. Like
normal I cut the bevel that I needed, in this case 21 degrees.
Next I lowered the blade on my TS to 1/8" below the surface of that
piece of wood and moved the fence closer to the blade just shy of
the width of the blade. This is the result of those procedures.
Notice the small lip that resulted. Keep in mind also that with
different angles the lip will need to be larger or smaller. A scaled
drawing or a drawing program tells yo exactly how much to cut.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here you can see how this comes together. The lip replaces the jig,
it holds the mating piece in just the right place with no need for
clamps or jigs when inserting the screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Parts in proper place, you see what needs to be sanded off.
BTW This picture was my first test of this method and I had not yet
drilled the pocket holes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/



One more shop immediately after gluing and inserting the pocket holes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

reminds me of a bird mouth joint.



About the same effect. BTw the link below is how Kreg shows how to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoCr6L3X8OQ

Pocket hole miter hack
 

On 7/11/17 12:16 PM, Leon wrote:
For those of you that have a Kreg pocket hole or like jig you may
recall seeing instructions, video, or demonstration of how to join
two pieces of wood, by their edges, with an angle other than 90
degrees.

Say you want to join the edges at a 45 degree angle. With normal
joinery you might bevel the edges to 22.5 degrees, maybe biscuit,
glue and clamp.

With pocket holes it becomes somewhat easier and stronger if you
simply bevel one edge at 45 degrees and leave the mating edge at 90
degrees. You simply build a 45 degree jig to set and hold the pieces
in place allow the 45 degree bevel piece to fit deeper so that the
back sides of both pieces join to a smooth joint.

After gluing and applying the screws remove and sand the point off of
the corner. This hides where the actual joint line is at and moves
it away from the actual corner. Clear as mud? Maybe not to
those that have actually built this jig and used it.


I was think about this jig and dreading to have to build another for
my current job. I need to join two pieces at a 69 degree angle. I
then had a thought, an instant bit of knowledge pop into my head and
I made this process much much easier and with out using a jig.

To clear things up a bit, a picture is worth a thousand words. The
link below shows a picture of the two pieces I joined with glue and
pocket holes. The picture also shows the "hidden joint" about 1/4"
away from where the pieces change angles and where you would normally
see the joint.

You normally need a jig to hold these pieces in place while gluing
and inserting the pocket hole screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here is the picture that popped into my head and the firs step. Like
normal I cut the bevel that I needed, in this case 21 degrees. Next
I lowered the blade on my TS to 1/8" below the surface of that piece
of wood and moved the fence closer to the blade just shy of the
width of the blade. This is the result of those procedures. Notice
the small lip that resulted. Keep in mind also that with different
angles the lip will need to be larger or smaller. A scaled drawing
or a drawing program tells yo exactly how much to cut.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here you can see how this comes together. The lip replaces the jig,
it holds the mating piece in just the right place with no need for
clamps or jigs when inserting the screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Parts in proper place, you see what needs to be sanded off. BTW This
picture was my first test of this method and I had not yet drilled
the pocket holes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/


That's pretty cool!
I've often done the 45 on one with a 90 on the other thing, then sanded
off the point. Seems like it's easier to line up, clamp, and/or screw
and you don't have to worry about get perfect alignment.

But you're set-up takes it to a whole new level.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

Pocket hole miter hack
 

On Wednesday, July 12, 2017 at 10:30:15 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

That's pretty cool!
I've often done the 45 on one with a 90 on the other thing, then sanded
off the point. Seems like it's easier to line up, clamp, and/or screw
and you don't have to worry about get perfect alignment.

But you're set-up takes it to a whole new level.

It is pretty cool. Leon, I think you should now do your YouTube video for this. No kidding, that is pretty helpful and ingenious as well.

Personally, not sure I would have ever thought of that.

Robert

Pocket hole miter hack
 

On 7/12/2017 10:30 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 7/11/17 12:16 PM, Leon wrote:
For those of you that have a Kreg pocket hole or like jig you may
recall seeing instructions, video, or demonstration of how to join
two pieces of wood, by their edges, with an angle other than 90
degrees.

Say you want to join the edges at a 45 degree angle. With normal
joinery you might bevel the edges to 22.5 degrees, maybe biscuit,
glue and clamp.

With pocket holes it becomes somewhat easier and stronger if you
simply bevel one edge at 45 degrees and leave the mating edge at 90
degrees. You simply build a 45 degree jig to set and hold the pieces
in place allow the 45 degree bevel piece to fit deeper so that the
back sides of both pieces join to a smooth joint.

After gluing and applying the screws remove and sand the point off of
the corner. This hides where the actual joint line is at and moves
it away from the actual corner. Clear as mud? Maybe not to
those that have actually built this jig and used it.


I was think about this jig and dreading to have to build another for
my current job. I need to join two pieces at a 69 degree angle. I
then had a thought, an instant bit of knowledge pop into my head and
I made this process much much easier and with out using a jig.

To clear things up a bit, a picture is worth a thousand words. The
link below shows a picture of the two pieces I joined with glue and
pocket holes. The picture also shows the "hidden joint" about 1/4"
away from where the pieces change angles and where you would normally
see the joint.

You normally need a jig to hold these pieces in place while gluing
and inserting the pocket hole screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here is the picture that popped into my head and the firs step. Like
normal I cut the bevel that I needed, in this case 21 degrees. Next
I lowered the blade on my TS to 1/8" below the surface of that piece
of wood and moved the fence closer to the blade just shy of the width
of the blade. This is the result of those procedures. Notice
the small lip that resulted. Keep in mind also that with different
angles the lip will need to be larger or smaller. A scaled drawing
or a drawing program tells yo exactly how much to cut.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here you can see how this comes together. The lip replaces the jig,
it holds the mating piece in just the right place with no need for
clamps or jigs when inserting the screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Parts in proper place, you see what needs to be sanded off. BTW This
picture was my first test of this method and I had not yet drilled
the pocket holes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/


That's pretty cool!
I've often done the 45 on one with a 90 on the other thing, then sanded
off the point. Seems like it's easier to line up, clamp, and/or screw
and you don't have to worry about get perfect alignment.

But you're set-up takes it to a whole new level.



It is pretty much a no brainer. I did not practice on scraps, oh my!

Actually the piece was an inch or so oversized so I could fix a screw
up. But there is nothing simpler than lowering the blade and moving the
fence about 1/8" and running through again.

Pocket hole miter hack
 

On 7/12/2017 11:09 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, July 12, 2017 at 10:30:15 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

That's pretty cool!
I've often done the 45 on one with a 90 on the other thing, then sanded
off the point. Seems like it's easier to line up, clamp, and/or screw
and you don't have to worry about get perfect alignment.

But you're set-up takes it to a whole new level.

It is pretty cool. Leon, I think you should now do your YouTube video for this. No kidding, that is pretty helpful and ingenious as well.

Personally, not sure I would have ever thought of that.

So you have been doing this type stuff for 30+ years and I have too.
Neither of us have thought of how to do this and I have been making this
type joint for probably more than a decade with out giving a second
though as to how to make this easier.

And then the thought just popped into my head. Sometimes
answers/solutions just come to me with out much, if any, thought
process. One would think Kreg would have figured this out, I saw their
demo of the jig when I bought my first all metal Kreg pocket hole jig a
decade or two ago.

Had I put much thought into this I would take some of the credit.


This really could not be much simpler. I give credit to my, always
there, creator. ;~)




Robert


I sent the pictures and suggestion to Kreg. They seemed genuinely
interested and responded with a comment that they were sending this to
their woodworking test staff to try out.

Pocket hole miter hack
 

On 7/12/2017 10:30 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 7/11/17 12:16 PM, Leon wrote:
For those of you that have a Kreg pocket hole or like jig you may
recall seeing instructions, video, or demonstration of how to join
two pieces of wood, by their edges, with an angle other than 90
degrees.

Say you want to join the edges at a 45 degree angle. With normal
joinery you might bevel the edges to 22.5 degrees, maybe biscuit,
glue and clamp.

With pocket holes it becomes somewhat easier and stronger if you
simply bevel one edge at 45 degrees and leave the mating edge at 90
degrees. You simply build a 45 degree jig to set and hold the pieces
in place allow the 45 degree bevel piece to fit deeper so that the
back sides of both pieces join to a smooth joint.

After gluing and applying the screws remove and sand the point off of
the corner. This hides where the actual joint line is at and moves
it away from the actual corner. Clear as mud? Maybe not to
those that have actually built this jig and used it.


I was think about this jig and dreading to have to build another for
my current job. I need to join two pieces at a 69 degree angle. I
then had a thought, an instant bit of knowledge pop into my head and
I made this process much much easier and with out using a jig.

To clear things up a bit, a picture is worth a thousand words. The
link below shows a picture of the two pieces I joined with glue and
pocket holes. The picture also shows the "hidden joint" about 1/4"
away from where the pieces change angles and where you would normally
see the joint.

You normally need a jig to hold these pieces in place while gluing
and inserting the pocket hole screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here is the picture that popped into my head and the firs step. Like
normal I cut the bevel that I needed, in this case 21 degrees. Next
I lowered the blade on my TS to 1/8" below the surface of that piece
of wood and moved the fence closer to the blade just shy of the width
of the blade. This is the result of those procedures. Notice
the small lip that resulted. Keep in mind also that with different
angles the lip will need to be larger or smaller. A scaled drawing
or a drawing program tells yo exactly how much to cut.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here you can see how this comes together. The lip replaces the jig,
it holds the mating piece in just the right place with no need for
clamps or jigs when inserting the screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Parts in proper place, you see what needs to be sanded off. BTW This
picture was my first test of this method and I had not yet drilled
the pocket holes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/


That's pretty cool!
I've often done the 45 on one with a 90 on the other thing, then sanded
off the point. Seems like it's easier to line up, clamp, and/or screw
and you don't have to worry about get perfect alignment.

But you're set-up takes it to a whole new level.



The beauty is that the screws pull the piece snugly into that lip. The
greater the angle, the larger the lip.

So you simply lower the blade until it protrudes through the slot the
thickness of the piece that you are going to attach. NOT height, rather
the length of material it will remove.

Pocket hole miter hack
 

On Tuesday, July 11, 2017 at 12:16:36 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
For those of you that have a Kreg pocket hole or like jig you may recall
seeing instructions, video, or demonstration of how to join two pieces
of wood, by their edges, with an angle other than 90 degrees.

Say you want to join the edges at a 45 degree angle. With normal
joinery you might bevel the edges to 22.5 degrees, maybe biscuit, glue
and clamp.

With pocket holes it becomes somewhat easier and stronger if you simply
bevel one edge at 45 degrees and leave the mating edge at 90 degrees.
You simply build a 45 degree jig to set and hold the pieces in place
allow the 45 degree bevel piece to fit deeper so that the back sides of
both pieces join to a smooth joint.

After gluing and applying the screws remove and sand the point off of
the corner. This hides where the actual joint line is at and moves it
away from the actual corner. Clear as mud? Maybe not to those that
have actually built this jig and used it.


I was think about this jig and dreading to have to build another for my
current job. I need to join two pieces at a 69 degree angle. I then
had a thought, an instant bit of knowledge pop into my head and I made
this process much much easier and with out using a jig.

To clear things up a bit, a picture is worth a thousand words.
The link below shows a picture of the two pieces I joined with glue and
pocket holes. The picture also shows the "hidden joint" about 1/4" away
from where the pieces change angles and where you would normally see the
joint.

You normally need a jig to hold these pieces in place while gluing and
inserting the pocket hole screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here is the picture that popped into my head and the firs step. Like
normal I cut the bevel that I needed, in this case 21 degrees.
Next I lowered the blade on my TS to 1/8" below the surface of that
piece of wood and moved the fence closer to the blade just shy of the
width of the blade. This is the result of those procedures. Notice the
small lip that resulted. Keep in mind also that with different angles
the lip will need to be larger or smaller. A scaled drawing or a
drawing program tells yo exactly how much to cut.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here you can see how this comes together. The lip replaces the jig, it
holds the mating piece in just the right place with no need for clamps
or jigs when inserting the screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Parts in proper place, you see what needs to be sanded off.
BTW This picture was my first test of this method and I had not yet
drilled the pocket holes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Arriving late to the party....

That is pretty sharp of you, Leon. Probably, the credit goes to the Mrs., though, for feeding you all that good brain food.

Sonny

Pocket hole miter hack
 

On 7/13/2017 7:12 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Tuesday, July 11, 2017 at 12:16:36 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
For those of you that have a Kreg pocket hole or like jig you may recall
seeing instructions, video, or demonstration of how to join two pieces
of wood, by their edges, with an angle other than 90 degrees.

Say you want to join the edges at a 45 degree angle. With normal
joinery you might bevel the edges to 22.5 degrees, maybe biscuit, glue
and clamp.

With pocket holes it becomes somewhat easier and stronger if you simply
bevel one edge at 45 degrees and leave the mating edge at 90 degrees.
You simply build a 45 degree jig to set and hold the pieces in place
allow the 45 degree bevel piece to fit deeper so that the back sides of
both pieces join to a smooth joint.

After gluing and applying the screws remove and sand the point off of
the corner. This hides where the actual joint line is at and moves it
away from the actual corner. Clear as mud? Maybe not to those that
have actually built this jig and used it.


I was think about this jig and dreading to have to build another for my
current job. I need to join two pieces at a 69 degree angle. I then
had a thought, an instant bit of knowledge pop into my head and I made
this process much much easier and with out using a jig.

To clear things up a bit, a picture is worth a thousand words.
The link below shows a picture of the two pieces I joined with glue and
pocket holes. The picture also shows the "hidden joint" about 1/4" away
from where the pieces change angles and where you would normally see the
joint.

You normally need a jig to hold these pieces in place while gluing and
inserting the pocket hole screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here is the picture that popped into my head and the firs step. Like
normal I cut the bevel that I needed, in this case 21 degrees.
Next I lowered the blade on my TS to 1/8" below the surface of that
piece of wood and moved the fence closer to the blade just shy of the
width of the blade. This is the result of those procedures. Notice the
small lip that resulted. Keep in mind also that with different angles
the lip will need to be larger or smaller. A scaled drawing or a
drawing program tells yo exactly how much to cut.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Here you can see how this comes together. The lip replaces the jig, it
holds the mating piece in just the right place with no need for clamps
or jigs when inserting the screws.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Parts in proper place, you see what needs to be sanded off.
BTW This picture was my first test of this method and I had not yet
drilled the pocket holes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

Arriving late to the party....

That is pretty sharp of you, Leon. Probably, the credit goes to the Mrs., though, for feeding you all that good brain food.



Thank you! She plays her part. ;~)